UKC

I just read a route description that suggests bringing a bong "just in case". I've no experience pegging, but a quick google suggests that mid-size camalots might cover the same range as a bong; does this sound likely?

In reply to humptydumpty:

How sure are you that the author's talking about climbing gear?

In reply to humptydumpty:

I'll ask my friend, he has a lot of bongs and the other night he was telling me how his girlfriend had suggested trying pegging. I tried to explain about the trad ethic in this country but he didn't understand.

In reply to humptydumpty:

google demijohn bong.

In reply to humptydumpty:

I wouldn't worry, if my email is to be believed there's One Simple Step to Enlarge your Bong if needed.

In reply to winhill:

Do not google "pegging".

In reply to humptydumpty:

Depends if it is a 2", 3", 4" or 6" bong.

In reply to humptydumpty:

most of us make do with giggling at 'crack' and 'nuts' and the odd 'fist jam' when climbing, but youv'e taken climbing innuendo bingo to whole new levels! bravo!

In reply to flaneur:

Very helpful info - thanks! Would be good if the topo actually mentioned the bong size. It does suggest a "thick 'V'" as an alternative, but I guess that would depend on font size!

In reply to humptydumpty:

Unfortunately it's one of those useless descriptions like "take a large cam" (note to guidebook authors: do you mean 3" or 7"?) .

A large angle piton is 1-2", so the guidebook mostly likely means green to gold camalot size.

In reply to humptydumpty:

I think we have different definitions of pegging. Can you elaborate?

In reply to flaneur:

Did some bongs not go in longways? So a 7 or 8 inch option?

After getting scared on the Hollow Flakes on Salathe Wall, I was advised back in the Valley that it was common practice to use a bong sideways as a nut for pro.

In reply to flaneur:

Thanks - much appreciated.

In reply to ianstevens:

I just had to do it. Goggle it that is, not actually try it. Oof!

In reply to humptydumpty:

About 4" - http://verticalarchaeology.com/2016/03/23/chouinard-4-inch-bong-pitons/

Chris

PS You'll have to convert to metric/cam size

In reply to humptydumpty:

Thanks for all the playground giggles as well as the useful advice here. If anyone's got advice on how hard I should hit the bong when I'm pegging... you can shove it up your arse

In reply to humptydumpty:
Sonically speaking it is bigger than a Bing and smaller than a Bung.

In reply to humptydumpty:


You bang it it 'til it bongs, than bang it a bit more !

Chris

In reply to humptydumpty:
2 sizes bigger than a dingaling.

In reply to Rick Graham:

Most - or possibly all - standard bongs are 6" endwise.

In reply to Rick Graham:


Just re-read this... how old is this advice? I didn't think carrying a hammer was very common in Yosemite these days, but not sure where I got that idea from. I guess massive (#5 & 6) cams weren't available.

In reply to humptydumpty:

Bongs are(/were) quite versatile. They can be placed, as designed, with a hammer - either in their normal orientation (usual sizes being 2", 2.5", 3" and 4") or endwise (6"). They can also be equipped with a sling through the lightening holes and used, without any need for a hammer, as a big nut - either in normal or endwise orientation, again, due to an appropriate taper in each mode. Indeed, their "three-point" contact with the sides of the crack can make them more stable than the equivalent size of hexentric or tube in anything flared. I imagine that this latter type of use is what Rick was referring to; I'm guessing that he did the Salathé several decades ago when the only large cams were homemade, and bongs - in Yosemite at least - were commonplace.

In reply to angry pirate:


Surprising , given your user name , that you had to ask mr. Google. I just did and ,as usual , had my self image as a man of the world diminished a little. ( as above not wise to google at work , unless you work in a sex shop, in which case you probably already know anyway. )

In reply to humptydumpty:

which guidebook is talking about using bongs? get the super topo big walls book it's outrageously accurate.

chapeau if your planning to do a route only in the old Reid guides. ..

In reply to Ian Parsons:


Spot on as usual, Ian, you should charge for this service.




I assumed longways after doing the HF, ie for a six inch crack. I thought some of the bigger bongs might have had a taper on the ends so they could be better placed both ways on.



May 1979, when the only cams were Friends 1 2 + 3. Not sure when the bigger sizes and home made jobbies came about. WC did not export then so it was only fair to leave them in the Valley with the locals. Swopped them for some very nice Chouinard large hexes. Still use one.

In reply to Rick Graham:

Hi Rick

Actually I'm wrong. Just dug out some bongs - Chouinard alloy and Clog steel; they have a very slight endwise taper as a result of one end being folded (and riveted) together while the other is partly open, but not the sort of designed taper of the normal orientation. It may be more apparent in the larger sizes but unfortunately my 4-inchers are currently elsewhere so I can't check.

I can't remember exactly when the Friend #4 came on the market - although at fist size that wouldn't have been much help for the wider bits of HF. Mark lent us a prototype for a wall in October 1978 - stamped "JARDINE" and with a handy trigger-retaining notch to reduce the carrying size - but I'm guessing they probably weren't in production until about 1980. And yes: I, too, always seemed to return from The Valley bereft of Friends (and EBs).

In reply to humptydumpty:


You carry a hammer on every el cap route except about 3 of them

5 & 6 cams do not protect the hollow flake, it's wider than that for the majority

In reply to ashtond6:

sure but salathe, nose , triple direct account for 80 % or more of climbers...

I'd love to go back and climb the short steep line on the right that got cleaned of all the fixed gear. ..

Good point! Zodiac pretty much goes clean at the moment, or a least with only a few beaks

In reply to ashtond6:

when I was there it was almost. a clip up but a few years ago some.guys spent a week or so hacking everything out copper heads included... maybe it's all ready mostly fixed again. the Americans rock curation is remarkable.

In reply to alasdair19:

Yeah I know, I have a mate with no fear who has done it clean since. And a mate who has a lot of fear but only placed a few peckers. I guess these things come back pretty quickly, plus peckers often remove the need for heads these days

In reply to ashtond6:

I see you did The Trip as your first El Cap route. Steep, and very intimidating to get started on - which is often the hardest bit. Chapeau, Monsieur. Damn fine effort.

In reply to Ian Parsons:

Thanks, I was boxed for about 5 days

In reply to ashtond6:


I didn't realise this - I've only really looked at details of beginner trade routes around the valley (as I said Yosemite, not El Cap), and e.g. NW Face of Half Dome, South Face and The Prow on Washington Column etc. all apparently go clean. But good to know that my pegging practice might come in handy one day.

In reply to humptydumpty:


Definitely loads for you to go at! Virginia has lots of sustained arrow pegging then an easier top half!