UKC

Hi All,
As the subject suggests, I keep finding that I'm getting pumped in my left arm way quicker than my right.
3 months ago I upped my sessions from 3 times a month to 3 times a week in an effort to improve and it's become an obvious weakness.
Is it normal to have this kind of imbalance when you start pushing a little harder?
Cheers
Stephen

In reply to routrax:

Maybe swap hands when doing one handed exercises.

In reply to routrax:
Sounds like you need more sessions with a partner, and less solo sessions - that should alleviate the issue.

HTH

In reply to routrax:

Are you right or left handed?

In reply to routrax:

More seriously... are you climbing routes or bouldering?

In reply to routrax:

Hahaha, I kinda walked straight into that one!

In all seriousness, I don't think 'that' is the problem as I've only been sport climbing recently, so haven't played with my nuts for ages...

In reply to JIMBO:

Mainly routes, I probably boulder 3-4 sessions a month.

In reply to routrax:

Perhaps you always clip with your right and grip too tight with your left whilst doing it?

In reply to routrax:

I think it'll come with time, (insert joke here).
There's unlikely to be anything wrong with you, just an imbalance of strength between your arms.
As has already been suggested, if you're clipping with your right hand then you could be over gripping with your left, even when your just climbing this could still be the case, it's very common. How long have you been climbing?

In reply to routrax:

I've had the same issue for years and tried most things but finally worked out what is was the other day on a systems board - whilst I trust my fingers on my dominant right hand and am happy to move on a totally straight arm, with the left it seems I don't and keep the left arm slightly bent and tense. This results in my left arm pumping up. Something it didn't do when foot on campussing on the small rail for up to five minutes. Saw a coach for that advice and whilst I had endurance way beyond my grade, I still pumped out on my left arm all the time. Always thought it was an endurance thing but it wasn't. Technique and trust.
It only showed up on the systems board because you're mirroring moves, so might be worth a try. The board I was on was only set at 15deg when I worked it out, so you don't have to be strong. I'm certainly not.

In reply to JIMBO:

This is quite possible, Was climbing tonight and I definitely favour clipping with my right

In reply to Removed Usergilesf:

Only about a year.

In reply to mrchewy:

I think I might be doing something similar, I'll watch out for it on the session.

In reply to routrax:

I would say it's a time thing, particularly as you've only just gone from climbing 3 times a month to 3 times a week. Now you're climbing more often you should be able to start climbing for longer without getting pumped so quickly and also be more confident about clipping in, so avoiding over-gripping.

In reply to Removed Usergilesf:

That's exactly what I wanted to hear

In reply to routrax:

I definitely find myself getting pumped in my left arm more than my right, happens in everything, trad, sport, long boulder sessions. I think it's because I played a lot of tennis and badminton before I started climbing, my right forearm was noticeably bigger than my left even then.

In reply to routrax:

It's only natural that one hand will be weaker than the other, I think as you train more they will even out.

Just a thought, but do you take micro rests and shake out? Often I'll swap hands and shake the other one out between moves.

Over gripping is also a big cause of pumping out, and a lot of that can be down to fear, again that fades with time...