UKC

Alison Hargreaves 1988 Eiger Route

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Removed User 24 Sep 2016
Hi there,

Can someone help me out, which route did Allison Hargreaves climb in her 1988 solo on the Eiger? Was it the Heckmair?
I googled quite a lot, but most hits concerns Tom's winter attempts.
 John Kelly 24 Sep 2016
In reply to mike123:

Great link thanks
 mike123 24 Sep 2016
In reply to John Kelly:
Your welcome . Raining down there yet ? Looks to be half an hour away int north
 ben b 24 Sep 2016
In reply to Removed UserDocLemurian:

According to Eric Jones' autobiography, a roped solo of the nordwand.

(Can't open the link currently so you could well have the answer already!)

B
 Robert Durran 24 Sep 2016
In reply to Removed UserDocLemurian:

If I recall rightly, she didn't climb what is usually thought of as the true north face, but rather the N.E. face in the vicinity of the Lauper route. Which did seem to dodge the issue a bit......
 James Thacker 24 Sep 2016
In reply to Robert Durran:

Pretty sure it was the Lauper Route also Bob, but not exactly a push over. Granted a very different route in comparison to the '38.
 stonemaster 24 Sep 2016
In reply to Removed UserDocLemurian:

Seem to recall in A Hard Day's Summer that it was a variation of the Lauper.
 John Kelly 24 Sep 2016
In reply to mike123:

Weather - in and out at moment, expecting wet shortly
Removed User 08 Oct 2016
In reply to mike123:

Sorry for the reasonably late reply. Thanks for the link, it does mention that the 1988 solo was the Heckmair. Indirectly, but mentions. She says she did not choose the 1938 route when she soloed the 6 big walls, because she already did it,
 Rob Parsons 08 Oct 2016
In reply to Removed UserDocLemurian:
> Sorry for the reasonably late reply. Thanks for the link, it does mention that the 1988 solo was the Heckmair.

No - her 1998 climb (indeed of the 1938 Heckmair route, and whilst 6 and a half months pregnant) wasn't a solo.
Post edited at 20:55
 Rob Parsons 09 Oct 2016
In reply to Rob Parsons:

> No - her 1998 climb (indeed of the 1938 Heckmair route, and whilst 6 and a half months pregnant) wasn't a solo.

For your info: an account of that climb appears to be given in her article 'Three on the Eiger' in the 1998 Journal of the Climbers' Club: the content list of that journal - but unfortunately not the article itself - can be found online at even if http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/journal/original/1988%20Journal_nc.pdf

I imagine that, if you contact the CC directly, they might be able to send you a full copy of the article.
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