/ Skalia Pillar Access

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GravitySucks - on 18 Oct 2016
Skalia

Just wondering if those in the know could clue me in as to the best approach for this crag. Tried to get there last year using the guide book description but somehow got lost in a wilderness of rocky ravines and barbed wire fences ;-( Tried to follow the approach advised in the (2010) guide book which starts at a bend in the Palionisos road by some large wire fencing gates but must have gone wrong somewhere as the crag didn't seem to get any closer after half an hour of stumbling around in the man eating vegitation and loose terain. Is there a better way or even a more ovbious way ?

Ta!
Dave Musgrove - on 18 Oct 2016
In reply to GravitySucks:

The access gates on the new road are locked at the moment. Access is available from the bottom road left of the ghost kitchen access. Takes about 25 mins uphill walking then a short traverse left.
Chris Craggs - on 18 Oct 2016
In reply to GravitySucks:

When I was there last season the gate on the bend appeared to have been wired shut - not sure how the farmer accesses his land. If you can get through the gate, you walk to the very far end of the enclosure, descend about 50m into a small canyon and pick up red paint marks that lead across the hill and up to the crag.
If that isn't an option you would have to use the Skalia Balcony approach (decent path) and traverse left across the hill,


Chris
GravitySucks - on 18 Oct 2016
In reply to Dave and Chris Craggs:

Thanks for the update, looks like the approach from the Ghost Kitchen Side is the way to go. It would be a shame to miss out on al those quality ticks ;-)
Chris Craggs - on 18 Oct 2016
In reply to GravitySucks:

The routes on Skalia Balcony are also well worth doing if you are up that way and a seriously understarred in the book,


Chris
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abbeywall - on 18 Oct 2016
In reply to GravitySucks:

the new guidebook gives both approaches. We drove up to the approach in the old guidebook but as others have said the gates were locked. The goat farmer was there and gave us some very hard stares so we went back down to the ghost kitchen approach. A couple of folk had gone in that way but must have climbed over the gate and the farmer wasn't there when they walked in.
I found the other approach a bit longer than the 20/25 minute and not a great path. Also to be aware the sun seemed to reach the crag earlier than noon so we only ended up doing 3 routes which was a shame as there was other stuff I would have liked to have done. All good though. I recommend kalytaly which only has my logged ascent on UKC. Partner also did the 6C to the right which was also very good with a stiffer crux bit lower down. Folk doing the other 6Cs found them spicy and run out. The routes are definitely not as chalked up as other crags.

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