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Mont Blanc for novices

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Gareth230183 23 Oct 2016
Just joined this site so sorry if this has been discussed before. Looking at guided tours to summit Mont Blanc next year. I have only hill walking experience in the uk and have done a bit of climbing and rope work when in the military but not much. Been looking at exodus tours although pricey they offer ice axe and crampon training while you are there. Would this be sufficient or should I do a a weekend course in Scotland before hand. Young (ish) fit and healthy and have spent many years skiing down the alps. Now fancy climbing up them. Any advice on guided tours or any other useful tips much appreciated. Thanks
 colinakmc 24 Oct 2016
In reply to Gareth230183:

I'm sure there's lots of threads covering this if you search. At a glance your Exodus outfit look pricey and also alpine mountaineering doesn't look like their main focus. Have a look round at specific guiding companies e. g. Frost Guiding

http://www.frostguiding.co.uk/courses/11/Alpine_Mountaineering.html

A Scottish Winter course is always a good idea imo. You could spend the money you save on one of those!

Good luck with your alpine adventure. There are hundreds of delights to be found in the Alps, being guided up MB isn't necessarily one of them although it will give you a good start for doing other things.
 GrahamD 24 Oct 2016
In reply to Gareth230183:

If are being guided on Mt Blanc, the most important thing for you will being as fit as you possibly can be. The only winter skill you are likely to need is being able to walk in crampons.
 zimpara 24 Oct 2016
In reply to Gareth230183:
Get very fit. It's worth learning to walk in crampons so you can pass people on the Ridge with the least amount of fuss. Take nothing with you. Do NOT wear Gore-Tex. You will get hot chasing after guide. Tape your feet. You will do a lot of walking.
And then get fitter. They are fast guys.


On a different tact, If you do a Scottish coarse, I have every faith that you will not need a guide for mont blanc.
Post edited at 11:02
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 JLS 24 Oct 2016
In reply to zimpara:

>"If you do a Scottish coarse, I have every faith that you will not need a guide for mont blanc."

Would you bet your house on it?

I've done a few of 4000m peaks self guiding after reading books and a bit of scottish winter walking and climbing.
I've never climbed Mont Blanc. On the face of it, it's just a long walk but I think it gets a lot harder once you become aware of what *could* go wrong. Crowds, storms, Tacul serac avalanches, the Goûter couloir rock fall, etc, etc, all put me off the idea. I doubt a Scottish course or two will prepare anyone to deal with the inherent dangers involved on MB. And while most would likely survive, oblivious to the dangers, I wouldn't consider it good advice to suggest a novice should tackle MB unsupported.
 drunken monkey 24 Oct 2016
In reply to zimpara:

I'd be very wary of taking that last statement as any sort of recommendation.
 earlsdonwhu 24 Oct 2016
In reply to zimpara:

Sorry, but being super fit is no guarantee of coping with acclimatisaton.....indeed it can lead people into rushing and causing all sorts of problems. Get acclimatised and go steadily! Therefore, try to find time and opportunity to walk up to some decent heights before your attempt.
 GrahamD 24 Oct 2016
In reply to earlsdonwhu:

> Sorry, but being super fit is no guarantee of coping with acclimatisaton.....indeed it can lead people into rushing and causing all sorts of problems.

The OP is talking about a guided ascent. In which case being fit is paramount to enjoying it. The itiniary will be sorted by the guide.
 zimpara 24 Oct 2016
In reply to earlsdonwhu:

You don't simply get guided up Mont Blanc for £1800, you do acclimatisation with the company. Normally a night in the cosmiques too during the week. That's not what we are discussing.
1
 MG 24 Oct 2016
In reply to zimpara:


> Get very fit. It's worth learning to walk in crampons so you can pass people on the Ridge with the least amount of fuss. Take nothing with you. Do NOT wear Gore-Tex.

Says the man with a gallery full of pictures of him looking cold on the Bosses ridge wearing goretex! Taking "nothing" is stupid and dangerous.
 zimpara 24 Oct 2016
In reply to MG:

And your mistakes afford you the benefit of hindsight and experience.
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 drunken monkey 25 Oct 2016
In reply to zimpara:
Don't know if your trolling, taking the piss, or what. But some of the stuff you come out with on here is reckless, borderline even worse.

I hope the OP can see through it.

In my opinion.
Post edited at 08:48
Gareth230183 25 Oct 2016
In reply to Gareth230183:

Thanks all for taking time to reply. Some great pointers. I think I need to do a bit more research rather than just splashing out on a guided tour where the main priority is to drag you to the top of a mountain by any means. May not get much enjoyment or learn much from that.
 Babika 25 Oct 2016
In reply to Gareth230183:

I think you would get lots more satisfaction gaining experience on lower summits in the Alps with a mate and working up to Mont Blanc as a longer term aim. Ultimately much more fulfilling than heading straight for a guided ascent

Good luck!

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