UKC

I'm in the market for a winter belay jacket, having finally gotten to winter climbing and not just walking. So, I've had my eye on a PHD Zeta for a while and although it's quite expensive I expect to be using it for years so worth the spend.

My question is, is it the best jacket of its type for around the £300 mark? Really not interested is how the jacket looks. Just needs to do Scottish winters and alpine climbing.

Cheers for any advice.

Paul

In reply to GargoyleFeet:

Scottish winters shouldn't need a jacket that big. I use an ME fitzroy and layer up under it so I can regulate the body temp. That thing I would have thought is for the higher colder stuff. Lets see what everybody else says?

Personally for the really cold, damp stuff I use a Montane Spitfire with similar stats. The hood on the Montane looks tighter and the chest pockets are higher than the PHD jacket. The hood adjustment on the Spitfire is fantastic as it adjusts in different ways.

In reply to olddirtydoggy:

Cheers. I was thinking it might be overkill so I'll have a look at those other jackets. I'm also tempted by the PHD Alpha, it's quite a lot lighter than the Zeta and might be a better choice for Scottish winters.

In reply to GargoyleFeet:

I've used the Alpha and it's definitely v. warm. I'd rate it as warmer than my Patagonia DAS for comparison. ME Citadel is also very good, but c.200g heavier.

Alpha is a good balance of weight / warmth. There are warmer jackets, there are lighter jackets but I think it alpha strikes the balance well.

Cheers!

Stu

In reply to GargoyleFeet:

The PHD sale starts 1st November. They're doing a lightweight version of the Kappa (Normal version is similar in spec to the Alpha) with 100g Primaloft Gold for £199 that might be worth you taking a look at.

In reply to GargoyleFeet:

I went for the PHD Alpha - can't wait to get out in it

Thanks for the advice.

In reply to GargoyleFeet:

I rate the Zeta. Not used it in Scottish winter yet but I've used it for climbing big mountains. It's got the features you want in a proper belay jacket (not just a beefed up dogwalkers jacket). The hood isn't the greatest but that's the only flaw.

Just because you don't 'need' something as warm as the Zeta doesn't mean that you won't 'want' it.