UKC

Heading to morocco over Christmas for 2+ weeks trad climbing. The morocco rock guidebook for the north is still in print which I will buy but the Steve broadbent one (both north and more importantly south volumes) is out of print. Does anyone have a guide they want to sell? Any useful tips also welcome! Thanks in advance, George

In reply to George_Surf:
Steve Broadbent's 3 pocket guides are still available although I believe stocks are limited.
http://www.needlesports.com/7066/morocco.aspx
Between the 3 they cover both north and south although they are selective. Even so, they include all the popular stuff.

Out of the sun, the north side could be a bit chilly in late December, but the southern side should be fine, especially in the sun.

In reply to George_Surf:

The white tower on the south side is a 3 star Joe brown HVS that is the best route I've ever climbed of the grade. I'd happily bet it's one of the best in the world

In reply to George_Surf:

Ah right yes thanks for the link. So I could buy morocco rock (plus the updated for 2016 supplement) for the north side (does this include the sidi m'zal area?), and the pocket guide for tafraoute/south?

I did a 2 week trip back in 2013, although we read about the north being shady and cold we still had a good 5 days in the sun at annamer/Ksar; are there plenty of other crags on this side that get as much sun? We also did a week in the south and pretty much ticked Robin Hood and a couple of the other popular routes in the area.

In reply to George_Surf:

Aha. Well, 2 of the pocket guides (vols 2 & 3) mainly cover the northern side of Jebel el Kest, namely Jebel Taskra, Idaoougidif, Sidi M'Zal, Tagzene, Afantinzar and Samazar. Vol 2 does also include a good selection of the micro-routes high on the south side of the Tarakatine pass. Vol 1 covers Robin Hood, the Ameln valley and the granite south of Tafraout and possibly you may only need vol 1 in that case. Anyway, the granite's quite an interesting contrast to all the rest and reminded me a bit of some of the climbing on Namibia's Spitzkoppe (but unfortunately vastly inferior as there are no 12 pitch sport routes in the Anti-Atlas!)

Also remember that the pocket guides are selective, but between all 3 they include about half of all the routes climbed so far.