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Options for climbing around south portugal/spain

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 snoop6060 18 Nov 2016
Morning,

I have a family thing in south portugal early march, an hour west of faro. A week with the family is pretty intense so I am keen to combine this with some climbing.

I had originally planned to fly to Malaga and climb at Loja near el chorro for a few days then drive the 4hours to portugal and do the same on the return. But wondering if there is other places near malaga, seville or in portugal. I cannot find any decent information on climbing in portugal or at least what I can find isn't inspiring me a great deal. Is Loja the best option or is there much else I can get to within reasonable driving distance?

Single or multipitch, not fussed as long as it's good fun and has a spread of grades, though doesn't need to be massively extensive. No trad tho, won't have any gear. But not chorro itself, going next week and in jan so I think that might be enough .

Cheers,
Si
 RyanOsborne 18 Nov 2016
In reply to snoop6060:

Have you looked at this:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/map/
OP snoop6060 18 Nov 2016
In reply to RyanOsborne:
Of course I have. A map of random crags i've never heard of with a few route names and sometimes a brief description isn't quite enough to go off. I was hoping someone has climbed around there and knew where was good and where wasn't worth it. Failing that, i may as well just go to Loja which I know is good and I have a guide. Though i am told it might be bird banned .

I would actually be keen to climb in portugal if possible but again, I don't have enough info to go off.
Post edited at 12:06
 Eciton 20 Nov 2016
In reply to snoop6060:

Near Faro in Portugal there is a nice place to climb called Rocha da Pena. Further to west you have Sagres, which is really a nice and varied place crag. But unfortunately is nit very safe at the moment due to badly corroded bolts. A rebolting campaign is taking place but will not be completely ready by march. There is although a nice sector (Armacao) with half the routes already rebolted which is quite worthwhile.

Topo for Sagres can be found in the local cafe named Dromedario. For Rocha da Pena I can try to find a topo for you but I am on my mobile now so can not provide you with a link. Send me a PM if you decide to go to Rocha da Pena and I will send you a link or pdf later.

 DWS gibraltar 20 Nov 2016
In reply to snoop6060:
Don't forget to drop in to gib for some early season Dws check out Dws Gibraltar on fb.
Removed User 20 Nov 2016
In reply to snoop6060:
There's quite a few bolted routes on the costal cliffs around Sagres. Here's a link to a previous posting. Paste the co-ordinates into Google maps.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=571635&v=1#x7597977

mariopulquerio's post is a bit misleading. The first round of bolting by local climbers or visitors from Lisbon used low grade stainless steel or mild steel bolts. Purely because they didn't know the difference at that time; and they were retro bolting existing trad routes. Sector Corgas and Armacao Nova were badly affected; and have been the first to be partially re-equipped with titanium. I've bolted many of the other sectors and I use 316 stainless. We randomly tested fifty of my bolts last Easter and all were good. However, titanium is the way to go in the future.

Andy

Post edited at 22:08

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