UKC

I am soon to be driving around New Zealand for a year or so. My partner and I will be looking to get some sport and bouldering in where we can.
Does anyone have any recommendations on crags, boulders or even routes (f7a and below)?
Open to suggestions anywhere on both Islands!

In reply to FinlayThomson:
Paynes Ford is great fun, loads to go at at the adjacent campsite (Hangdog) has a really nice vibe.

Wye Creek has lovely views over Wakatipu, and the rock is a bit different to anything I've climbed on in the UK or central Europe. Worth a visit even just to get a photo under the big (but juggy) roof with the lake in the backgroud. You kind of want a 4x4 to drive to the closest car park though, but it's probably a nice walk.

Forr the general Queenstown area there is a local climbing "club" on Facebook, can't remeber the name but was easy enough to find this time last year. Some nice people who are keen to get out and share advice.

Apparently cragging around Wanaka is amaxing - didn't get to do any myself though.

Castle Hill for bouldering - article here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=3685

In reply to ianstevens:


Agreed. Really nice area, best weather in NZ I've heard. It was lovely when I was there anyway.


It is really good. Not on a par with the best Euro stuff IMO, but a bit different and nothing to complain about for sure.

In reply to FinlayThomson:

I climbed around the crags at Wharepapa and Waipapa on the North Island a few years ago. Very cool place, with awesome unique rock!
Wharepapa ( Froggatt Edge) is close to Bryces Cafe which burnt down a while back, but if it is up and running again, worth a visit! They were very friendly to a lonesome hitchhiker looking for climbing partners!
Waipapa Is a bit more remote and just awesome. The Arches was my favourite route!

Have fun!

In reply to FinlayThomson:

The Darrans should feature pretty high up the list!
One of my favourite trad venues in Charleston, on the West Coast, near Punakaiki. Down the coast from there and inland, is Bullock creek, I've not been yet but it's meant to be good sport.
I wouldnt specifically head to Christchurch for climbing, but if you are there are some nice venues in the Porthills, and down on the peninsula: a few of my favourites are Otepotatu, Holmes Bay, crystal clear light, Tamatea, the Tors, Gilbralta crag.

Near Timaru is Mt Horrible and Spur road, again probably not worth a specific trip, but if you're near there anyway.

There's good climbing as a weekend trip into the hills in the Mt Somers area, at the Pinnacles.

Plenty of good stuff near Wanaka and QT as others have said: if you're climbing near Queenstown take a day to walk to the slightly further Sundial crag: 3-4 really good routes with amazing views. Again a bit of a further walk, but good multipitch on the alta slabs, in the Remarkeables.

In reply to FinlayThomson:

This is a recurring thread - have a search around and you'll find loads more ideas about where to climb, what to climb and what else is worth a look see. Have a great time you lucky so and so.

In reply to ianstevens:

Obviously the best thing at Payne ford is to go to the river, good fun DWS and the best rope swing I've ever played on/off!

Second vote for Charleston too!

In reply to Bobling:

I'll have a search! Cheers!

In reply to FinlayThomson:

Yeah castle hill well worth a visit, really cool boulder field, not far away there's an underground stream you can do some easy cave scrambling in too

In reply to > "Apparently cragging around Wanaka is amaxing - didn't get to do any myself though."

Climbed on Hospital Flats and on a riverside crag nearby. Both near Wanaka. The climbing was a bit samey and nowhere near as good as the uk.
Castle Hill is better with some hard boulder problems.

Generally the climbing in New Zealand isn't much to write home about, certainly compared to what we have in Europe or what's on offer in the states. Lovely country, but I wouldn't recommend going there for the climbing.

Paynes ford is fun. Froggatt is ok. I'm sure castle hill is ace if you have a bit of local knowledge and a good team of spotters and pads. It's not great without. Nothing around wanaka particularly blew my mind, but worth a look. Wye creek near queens town was good. Stuff in the darrans looks ace but rain stopped play for us there.

Amazing walking all over the place

In reply to FinlayThomson:
Sorry For essay but ...

Hey so spent about 3 months driving around the south island climbing, Was pretty fun all round here are a few reccomendations...

The Darrans - like super amazing, absolutely stunning scenery and there's heaps of new sport climbing being developed, as well as a wealth of alpininsh trad routes. Some Particular highlights were a 6 pitch grade 20 (F6b) slab climb on the shotwell slabs, like velcro (terrifying on lead but possible to literally run up on second).
We also did a couple of routes on Moire's Mate including the Bowen Allen corner (amazing trad 17 (Vs ish) And lucky strike which is a super awesome 22 (F6C ish).
Climbing at the chasm was very interesting to say the least, and it's permadry. Also there is little babylon which is more towards the high 7's- 8's grade range but also perma dry and awesome.

Around Queenstown ...
Wye Creek - Plenty to do, some cool lines but nothing terribly inspirational, we made it up (and down) the track in a beat up old nissan serena (named betty), would not reccomend for the weak of heart.
The Sundial - Brilliant photo opportunity, but the routes aren't worth the walk in in my opinion.
Other - The climbing around here is all on Schist which is a very interesting rock to climb on. Predominantly crimps and flatties that all slope to side, so it's well worth exploring the local area.

Around Wanaka...
Heaps More Schist, Plenty to go at not the most inspirational but good fun and the Lakes are very beautifull.

Around Dunedin.
Long beach - good fun for all, it's got sport, trad, bouldering, the sea and caves to sleep in, would reccomend a visit.
Lovers Leap - Intimidating, we didnt actually climb here cause it was raining, but it looks awesome if you like climbing Basalt pillars.
Others - heaps more around, rock is mostly columnar basalt which is super cool to climb.

Around Christchurch ...
Visit the Cave if you want to get strong/dick about on a big roof full of jugs and perma draws. it's all really hard though somehow.
Go to Castle Hill, Without exception. It is one of the best places in the world for bouldering, it's basically a limestone version of font (desperate topouts and everything), but with sheep instead of trees. The landings are mostly flat grass but a pad is nice.
There are also plenty of other crags to keep you interested but none compare to the Hill, though there's also skiing and mountains etc

Also visit the Pie shop in Sheffield

Paynes ford is a really good place to chill out and climb some sport, and meet people, and become a hippy etc.

Charlseton - Some amazing sea cliffs, and there's a large amount of sport slightly along the coast and inland abit but the paths to this had just been destroyed when we were there.

Sebastibole and around mount cook - great multipitching with a short walk in to the bluffs, also many mountains and plenty of developement happening around.

In terms of the north island, you can pretty much skip the lower half, there's some bouldering around but it's either poor or has very long walk in's.

Whanganui Bay and Kawakawa Bay on the shores of lake taupo are extremely beautiful sport destinations and well worth a visit.

ALSO There's heaps of info on http://climbnz.org.nz/nz along with topo's, access notes etc. Continually getting updated and added to.

ALSO Don't go swimming in lake Gunn it is a severe dissapointment, Lake Fergus is extremely cold, Lake Pukaki is AWESOME