UKC

Dolomites Ice Climbing

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 Ramon Marin 20 Sep 2023

I've read the UKC article, but it's a bit too generic. Has anyone got any experience on what are the greatest hits, must do routes in the Wi5-6+ / M8-10 grade range? And what time of year is best for them? I've been to Sottoguda, not that interested. More intested in things like Val Travenazes for example. Also, is flying to Innsbruck a better chance to get a renatl car with half decent winter tyres? (unlike Venice...) Thanks a lot

 Jeff Ingman 20 Sep 2023
In reply to Ramon Marin:

Hi Ramon

I've been to that area a couple of times but can't provide you with a greatest hits list in that grade range. Have you seen "Ghiaccio Verticale" by Francesco Cappellari ? It covers Val Trevenanzes and some of the outlying areas. Plenty of hard ice, some mixed and tooling up to M10. You can borrow my copy if you want to take a look.

We've been at the end of January and enjoyed good ice conditions. We flew to Bergamo and got winter tyres on the car, seems that they're used to skiers flying in.

I'm sure Beardy Mike will be along soon with more information, he lives in the area

Cheers.....Jeff

 beardy mike 20 Sep 2023
In reply to Ramon Marin:

Can't give you much info about Val Travenanzes. The other place to look would be Vallunga/Langental in Selva di Gardena which has some very hard dry tooling/mixed routes. Sottoguda, obviously doesn't have much mixed but there is Tom Ballards Cave called Tomorrow's World up in Malga Ciapela. There are also a couple of tasty looking routes in Val di Gares further south. 

With regards Innsbruck, yes it is absolutely reliable where as you generally have to pay for a 4x4 in Venice and even then they will stiff you for chains. Flights and car hire are more expensive but if you want that security it's worth doing.

OP Ramon Marin 21 Sep 2023
In reply to Jeff Ingman:

Thanks both, very useful. No I haven't got the Vol. 2 of Ghiaccio Verticale, I think that's the one covering the area, will get the Sudtirol Eisklettern that seems to also have some other stuff.

 beardy mike 21 Sep 2023
In reply to Ramon Marin:

The sud tirol eisklettern is a better quality guidebook, but less comprehensive. If you want good local knowledge, as Manfred Stuffer at Catores guides. He is extremely knowledgeable about the area, say Mike Kann sent you and I'm sure he will spill beans...


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