UKC

New Zealand bouldering guide books?

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 Jack Newman 02 Oct 2023

Hi, 

Does anybody know of any Guide books for bouldering in New Zealand? I can’t seem to find any anywhere. 

 mcawle 02 Oct 2023
In reply to Jack Newman:

I’m not sure whether there is a dedicated NZ bouldering guide, but the NZ Alpine club sells a number of NZ rock climbing books that sent to include bouldering: https://shop.alpineclub.org.nz/product-category/guidebooks/rock-climbing/

OP Jack Newman 03 Oct 2023
In reply to mcawle:

Thanks for the response I’ll check them out! I’ve been searching for a guide book for flock hill/ castle hill or spittle hill but it doesn’t look like anyone’s made one yet! 

 DaveR 03 Oct 2023
In reply to Jack Newman:

Try this website:

https://castlehillbasin.co.nz/flockhill

I think South Island rock has a few of the routes in, but only a few. Not worth buying just for those areas.

There is a castle hill guide, but I'm not sure if it's still in print.

 damowilk 03 Oct 2023
In reply to Jack Newman:

There was a castle hill guide, but I think it’s out of print.

I think there’s deliberately no guide, in print or online, to flock hill, to avoid the polish and over-climbing of castle hill. It’s also on private land, so like always with NZ, there’s probably concerns of revoked access.

OP Jack Newman 03 Oct 2023
In reply to DaveR:

Okay cool I’ll check it out, I’ve found a few topos on a website called 27 crags just no actual maps. 

OP Jack Newman 03 Oct 2023
In reply to damowilk:

Ah that’s useful to know cheers! I’m actually moving to New Zealand in March next year. Do you know of any other good crags in the South Island? Cheers 

 damowilk 03 Oct 2023
In reply to Jack Newman:

I like Charleston on the west coast and pinnacles at Mt Somers.

Theres a few decent ones on Banks Peninsula like Ote Potatu (?sp), and both Wanaka and QT have a decent amount of good crags nearby.

I don’t really know N Island climbing at all. 
It’s also worthwhile resetting expectations, NZ doesn’t have much rock that can compare with the UK. 


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