In reply to DanDDJ:
People camp in the picnic area next to the big NO CAMPING signs. Lots of vans and also tents, but I wouldn't leave your tent up during the day.
Don't bother trying to eat at the restaurant opposite the crag. They're bizarrely anti-climber and will just tell you they're full. You'll probably have to drive to find a meal.
You can have a very pleasant shower in the water outflow from the thermal baths into the river.
You don't need to hire a car if you bring your own.
In terms of routes, Tribe has notably been added since the article was written. You'll want small gear.
