UKC

2024 is, as usual, shaping up to be an exciting year for EDELRID. This year brings, not only some new products but also some long overdue updates to existing products in the range. We could go on for hours about updates to the range but instead we thought we'd list two highlight products for 2024.

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Intrigued to see the Pinch, in particular. We’ll be getting both in for review, so watch this space…

Always like how Edelrid seems to keep innovating and improving in quite a crowded market.

Interested to see the Pinch's applicability for multi-pitch, which was shown very briefly in the vid

Would be interested in your thoughts on the anti-panic option when you test it.

"The anti-panic can be overridden by pulling the lever as far back as possible."

Seems like this would kind of defeat the point of having an anti-panic feature in the first place? But maybe it's really hard to pull it back that far or something.

Nice leggings...

Where can I get one of those foot-long carabiners? 

When using the pinch from about 2min 21s in the video, the belayer is squeezing the device with one hand whilst paying out slack with the other i.e. without having a hand on the dead rope. I thought this was considered not best practice or potentially unsafe? Later on the correct method is shown, i.e. keeping fingers around the dead rope whilst squeezing the device but I'm surprised the earlier bit wasn't edited out.

It feels like they're making up "benefits" for the carabiner-less system. 

1. Any belay carabiner will have anti cross loading functionality built in (I use a DMM Ceros, for example).

2. This apparent extra 20-30 cm of feed out. For a start the Ceros is 7.4 cm long so I can't see how without that I'll get an extra 10-20 cm's. Secondly, the belayers positioning in relation to the wall will allow you feed out of lots of slack quickly (i.e. moving into the wall), so that's far more important than the length of the carabiner. 

Looks pretty sleek but I won't be rushing to replace my grigri.

I'm no copywriter, but surely "a button as a pose to the catch" should read "as opposed to"?

Unless you just mean a pear shape, then that's not true. I've got a number of HMS krabs for belaying without an internal wire gate (or similar) to stop cross loading. That's relatively speaking a pretty new idea.

Any decent one does. https://www.climbinganchors.com.au/climbing-gear/carabiners/locking-carabin...

Well that's not what you said, but anyway that's also a gross over-simplification. Krabs like the Belay Master are a complete pain to try and clip onto and off the back of your harness with the plastic thingy hooking and catching on everything else and fiddly to even put on your belay loop particularly with double ropes. Ones with internal wiregates like the Ceros can also be tricky, particularly when winter climbing or doing ice routes and you are wearing gloves or even worse mitts. Then just a plain old HMS works fine. 

Possibly that's just to demonstrate the difference in reach between with/without-krab belaying; though it also looks a little like the dead rope might be in the left hand, blocked from view by the Pinch