In reply to David Jinks:
Arrived back from Greenland on Saturday, safe and sound. It was a great trip all round, but logistically quite a difficult area to get to, although things are improving. We took the 'wing it' approach after the travel agency that we used (Team Arctic) messed up.
Our payment for flights was 'lost' and we never received our tickets for our leg from Copenhagen to Narsarsuaq (Greenland)! We ended up being asked to meet out agent "outside of Burger King at 8am" in Copenhagen airport the morning of the flight. It became clear that they had failed to do anything that we'd been promised, so we ended up with free helicopter flights (it must have cost them a fortune!) and free ferry journeys.
By taking a helicopter on the leg from Narsarsuaq to Nanortalik, we avoided being delayed for 4 days as the ‘ferry’ that we were meant to take couldn't get through the pack ice. And then we opted for the services of a local fisherman, rather than going for the official route in getting to base camp in Torssukatak Fjord. Much help from Greenland Tourism's 'Niels', the agent in Nanortalik who is trying to improve the services available for climbers in the area - a guy who promises little, but comes up with the goods every time.
We had 3 weeks at base camp, the area is very remote and pretty much untouched. Rock everywhere - huge granite spires and steep faces, plenty of exploding icebergs and whales, seals and Arctic Fox your friends for the duration. The ‘Thumbnail’, climbed last year, was on the other side of the fjord, not too far away. The 'Baroness' cliff that we planned to climb was a bit of a monster - it was very steep and nothing felt easy. Lines were less continuous than we'd hoped and the character of the climbintg more 'British' than 'American'. The rock was very good overall though, although there were some more crystalline, hollow bands in places. Four routes were completed up to 650m, 15 pitches by the team, climbing in pairs. Another route was done on an adjacent cliff and an attempt was made on the impressive 'Baron' cliff - forced retreat due to bad weather.
We had two storms, the second of which was fairly major with very strong winds, wiping out two of our tents, blowing a barrel 100m over rocks and into the sea. Impressive 50m 'twisters' whipping up the fjord were the highlight.
Overall, lots of fun and only one near miss when I nearly capsized our 8ft dingy/outboard in the middle or the icy fjord. It’s no wonder that Greenland is the number one place for exploratory expeditions at the moment - there's just so much unclimbed rock. When we left, we heard that there were about 6 or 7 teams (different nationalities) in Tasermiut Fjord, the most developed climbing in the area with massive cliffs Ulamertorsuaq and Ketil. Still loads to do, it’s just knowing where it is and getting to it!