UKC

Planning a trip to Lofoten this summer and perhaps trying to get to Stetind at some point. Does anyone who might have done this trip have any advice about the best way of getting from the islands (Svolvaer) to Stetind, re. routes, ferries, how long it takes/costs, etc?

In reply to Jimmy D: To get from Svolvær to Stetind, you take the ferry from Svolvær to Skutvik, which takes about an hour I think, which is on the island of Hammerøy, then drive across Hammerøy (past Hammerøyskaftet which is a fantastic pinnacle, very much recommended) and take another ferry from Drag to Kjøpsvik. Stetind is then about a 20 min drive from Kjøpsvik.
The ferries are not expensive, about 100kr each I would guess, maybe a bit more for Svol-Skut.

Alternatively, if you do not have a car, take the ferry from Svolvær to Narvik and a bus to Tysfjord and get dropped off under Stetind.
Mail me if you want a pic of Hammerøyskaftet, I guarantee you will want to climb it...

In reply to Jimmy D: If you have a car very easy, not too expensive and a beautiful trip (both the drive and ferry) can't remember exactly but including the ferry crossing from Svolvaer to Skutvik then the drive along the mainland (plus one more smaller ferry crossing) I don't think it would be more than 4 hours. If you don't have a car you would have to hitch I think. Probably not too difficult - lots of tourist driving around up there. I gave a couple of hitchhikers lifts up there last summer and one girl told me she had got to Lofoten in about three days from Prague!

In reply to TobyA:

Thanks very much for the info. Just keeping fingers crossed for the weather now, and seeking out routes with jamming and laybacking to get me ready. Any training tips for a route like Vestpillaren, for someone for whom it's pretty much at their technical limit?

In reply to Jimmy D:

Lofoten home page - http://www.rockfax.com/areas/area.php?id=1007

Area info - http://www.rockfax.com/areas/lofoten/area-info.html

Free Stetind guide - http://www.rockfax.com/publications/miniguides/item.php?id=49

Lofoten guide - http://www.rockfax.com/publications/miniguides/item.php?id=44

Alan

In reply to Jimmy D:

Even if you'll be at your technical limit on the Vestpillaren don't try the indirect (easier) start - it's chossy, and seems to be missing the whole point of the route. Direct start is the only way. I hear the climbing is well protected, with no single pitch being worse than E1 5b.

Also don't save doing it right till the end of your stay on the islands, then be forced to try it in damp conditions the day before you leave. I did, had to retreat from a couple of pitches up, and now have gotta go back again to do it!

In reply to jamiemoss:

Yes, will deffo be trying the direct start if we get decent weather. Just hoping we'll have enough staying power for such a long route - I imagine it will be a rather different prospect to a day out on a British crag.

In reply to Jimmy D: The inderect (original) start is not chossy, it is a good version. Admitedly the direct is much better, but if you are going to be at the limit on grade 6 climbing, then the original start is a good intro. There is only one pitch of true 6, and that is the famous corner pitch high up. The gear is better than you could imagine, so there is nothing to worry about apart from the style. Training wise, get laybacking right facing corners. You do not need to be super fit, Presten is very slabby. A good idea wouldbe to do Ypperstepresten early on the trip, only 4 pitches up to the mid-height ledge. See how you get on with that (grade 5+). You also get to see a bit of Vestpillaren cos you ab from the stance on the ledge.

In reply to Nj:

Well the first pitch of the indirect start is chossy! 60 m up that gully, on loose and vegetated rock. I pulled a big lump or granite off (accidentally and unexpectedly!) when i was on it. We abbed off shortly after as it got wetter. And it kinda misses the point of the great line that is the Vestpillaren direct.

What uk grade would you give the grade 6 pitch if it were a single pitch outcrop climb in the uk? HVS/E1 5b maybe? Is there any grade 6 on the direct start?

Oh and are there any long sections of same-width crack i.e. that necessitate double of a particular sized cam or hex? I plan to go back and finish the job, via the direct start of course!

In reply to jamiemoss:

Except for the one that might be E1 5c. (one tricky move on pitch 6 IIRC - very easily aidable if you try it and fall off)

Jimmy - tips from a cowardly HVS/E1 climber on how to do Vestpillaren Direct. I was really nervous starting - it was my biggest ever route, see: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/03comphysteria.html the following are a few ideas that might help you get up it:

1) go with an E5 climber - it worked for me!

2) The pitches are LONG and all well protected, so take plenty of gear. TobyFK laughed at my hexcentrics (E5 climbers obviously find hexes amusingly punterish) but we used them loads on belays meaning all the cams could be used as runners. I'd take two full sets of nuts, a full set of friends (maybe even a doubles in say 0, 1 and 2) and three medium sized hexcentrics/hexes. We had one mini-cam, maybe a 00 - it was very useful on the last real move of the climb (pitch 11) as you do a strange slabby move over into the exit gully (pitch 12). The move is desperate, and there is an old peg to clip - but the little cam was confidence inspiring.

3) If the weather craps out you ab off, therefore you don't need a survival bag and full bivy equipment! We used a sleeping bag compression sack (light and sits high above your harness) as THE rucsac. In it: 2 ltrs water, 2 pairs of trainers (take the insoles out to be really sad about saving weight) - they are fine for walking down, two windshirts, two very light hats, some choccy and peanuts. It was hot and we ran out of water. On a cooler day 2 ltrs of water might be fine but you might want a bit more clothing. If you can't fit all the stuff in the sleeping bag compression sac you are carrying too much. Harness goes on in the carpark, rack on it. We took ours off in the pub in Henningvaer after!

4) Tape your hands - learn how to do this before you go. You can climb the hand jam cracks twice as fast and more securely with a good tape job.

5) take a cordellete of numerous metres of say 7mm cord. this make belays quick and secure but is also your abseil tat if you need to back off. Obviously take a small knife for cutting it if necessary...

6) nearly 24hr light means no headtorch needed - but start earlyish so that you feel no need to rush.

7) there are virtually no un-aidable moves on the route as it follows cracks the whole way. Tell yourself as you start - if we can't do a move we can frig it 'cos basically it is true. Having said that I can't onsight any harder than E1 (and I can't do E1 on natural grit), and I did every move free, including leading half the pitches.

8) The rockfax topo is a better description than the Webster guide, although the latter isn't bad by any means.

9) The route is slabby generally so you don't need to be super strong - I fell off the Sloth at the Roaches for example. Wear comfy shoes as you'll be in them a long time.

10) the direct start is bolted for an abseil descent. You can therefore say "if we get up the first 4 pitches OK we carry on - if not we abb off". It's another mental trick to help you get on the route.

Try and beat our 8 hours which I'm quite proud of as a complete punter.

In reply to jamiemoss: That chossy bit was the approach I thought, we soloed that bit the to the leftwards traverse pitch!
I would give the max pitch E1 5b.
The direct start has two pitches of E1 on it.
We had a standard rack of 2 sets of nuts, 1 set of friends, gear is really not a problem!
As for taping your hands, hehe, it ain't steep enough for that nonsense!
Wear slipper style shoes, comfy and good on slabby stuff.
I agree with Toby about the last move into the exit gully, a tricky number! But you have the peg.
More fun can be had a the top if you sneak left into the harder finishes, the 7+ one is mega, and pretty sustained, E4 6a in real money.
Have fun.

In reply to Nj:


Oooh - ouch! I did it in overly-tight dominators two summers ago which was I all I had but a bad idea. Last summer I repeated the direct start (and did loads of other climbs around Lofoten) in nicely supportive - and protective in cracks - Red Chili Sausalitos and thought they were perfect. You don't need super-smeary shoes by any means - lots of edging and crack climbing is involved. The Sausolitos are great I reckon.


I meant to write "NOT desperate" instead of "desperate"! Whoops. It is a hard move, but if you have got that far it won't stop you for more than a few seconds. You'll be cruising on elation by that point.

In reply to TobyA:

I'm hoping to do this route later in the year so thanks for such a detailed description.

In reply to TobyA:

Thanks very much all. This is all very helpful and encouraging. Especially the bits about not needing to be fit, strong or bold. I'm now convinced I can do it.

Shoes wise I reckon I'll go for my ballet golds (with socks!)which are my normal shoe size, wear-all-day comfy, give loads of protection and support and are in my view totally the business for long mountain routes.

8 hours sounds pretty fast for a route that long, but we'll see what we can do.