UKC

Rope Lanyards From Beal

© Jack Geldard
I received two lanyards from Beal for review - a Dynadouble Clip and a Dynaclip, says Jack Geldard. That's right, the Dynadoubleclip has two clip in points and the Dyna clip has one.

The Doubledynaclip attached to a harness  © Jack Geldard
The Doubledynaclip attached to a harness
© Jack Geldard
"...If you are doing a lot of multipitch sport routes or even canyoning, then these could be a good bet for quick and simple attachment..."

The Doubledynaclip on a bolt belay at LPT - Wales  © Jack Geldard
The Doubledynaclip on a bolt belay at LPT - Wales
© Jack Geldard

The lanyards obviously do exactly what they are supposed to, they attach you to belay points. The Dynadouble clip has one lanyard at a length of 40cm and one at 70cm, allowing you to clip in to staggered bolts at a bolt belay.

The fact that the lanyards are made from rope adds a small element of stretch to the system that you don't get with a sling.

The lanyards are well made, of a well thought out length and are very strong.

If you are doing a lot of multipitch sport routes or even canyoning, then these could be a good bet for quick and simple attachment.

If you mainly climb UK sport and trad I would say they are a rather specialist investment and you might be better purchasing some slings or learning how to build a belay with the 60m rope you have with you.

The Dynaclip rope lanyard from Beal  © Jack Geldard
The Dynaclip rope lanyard from Beal
© Jack Geldard

The performance specs are below:

photo
Specifications of the Dynaclips
© Beal

Summary:

A good but specialist bit of kit. Multipitch sport or canyoning fits well with these.

PRICE: For the single Dynaclip, £17.50 (40cm) and £19.00 (75cm). For the Dyna Double Clip, £24.00



Jack Geldard  © Jack Geldard

About Jack Geldard

Jack Geldard is an experienced climber and mountaineer and is the Chief Editor of UKClimbing.com.

He has climbed throughout the world on rocks and mountains both large and small. He holds the MIA qualification and is occasionally seen guiding on the cliffs of North Wales, where he is mainly based.

He doesn't consider himself a gear freak, but likes his equipment to work in a no-nonsense way.

Whilst trad climbing is his main passion, he has decided to embrace training and sport climbing "before it's too late", which has resulted in a massive increase in his... elbow tendinitis.


For more information Beal



15 Apr, 2010
IIRC Beal designed these after a couple of accidents (possibly deaths) caused by people clipping into abseil anchors with (static) slings and slipping from above the anchor, shock loading it, and having the sling or their harness fail as a result. It still seems fashionable to use a sling as cow's tail amongst some sport climbers in Europe - and obviously using one of these is for that job is a much better idea. I have the short single one and sometimes use it for sports routes if there aren't easy clip in anchors at the top, and if I anticipate multipitch abseiling. It's a bit like a shunt, a bit heavy and specialist, but really worth it if you are doing a lot of abseiling.
15 Apr, 2010
Morning, do you have any more information about these accidents. It seems more like a gimmick to get you to think you need another product. A sling has many more length options and unless you are using a sling longer the 120cm there is no way you could generate enough force to break anything (Who climbs above the anchor anyway?). The ropes are so short that your going to get virtually no elongation anyway. The two ended one might make a good lanyard for a pair of ascenders I suppose but again you have more options using a daisy chains. If you are really worried about taking a huge lob (How?!) onto the anchor then the Yates daisy with built in screamer would be far more suitable. Adjustable and with far more shock absorbing power. http://www.yatesgear.com/climbing/etriers/daisywscreamer01l.jpg Strange to see this advertised really.
15 Apr, 2010
http://rockclimbingcompany.blogspot.com/2010/04/dyneema-slings-breaking-under-direct.html It says on this website that DMM have done some testing on slings. Anyone know if the video is out yet?
15 Apr, 2010
If they have I hope they used an impact load graph that accurately reflects reality. The only use dropping a static load onto a static sling would serve is to unneccessarily scare people into thinking they aren't safe clipped into slings. My guess is that if I were to fall 1m onto a sling much of my body wouldn't stop moving for maybe a whole second or more, hugely reducing the peak load compared to a rigid weight, which would come to rest in a small fraction of a second (ie. an order of magnitude higher peak load)
15 Apr, 2010
Toby, out of curiosity - why did you get one of these rather than use a length of dynamic rope and make one up yourself? I'm guessing convenience and neatness? Cheers, Si
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