“Make finger strength the number one priority in your training, work on your weaknesses and never drink on an empty stomach”.........Malcolm Smith
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The fingerboard from Moon has managed to achieve a superb compromise between using its space efficiently whilst fitting in plenty of good holds; this comes from Moon's ethos that less is more. The simplicity of the design means that it won't look too out place sitting above a door in your house either. The board is best mounted on to a plywood backing before affixing to the wall which makes for a very secure platform. It is often the case for people to buy training equipment only to be left in the dark as to how to get the best use from it. Another bonus of the Moon fingerboard is that it comes with free after support and training tips / routines from Moon's website, written by Richard Simpson.
© Moon Climbing, Nov 2006
The holds on the board itself are very tendon friendly. All of the pockets have a slight slope to them so as not to overstretch the tendons when hanging open handed, and the crimp edges are slightly in-cut meaning you are less likely to explode off them and rupturing something in the process. The complete absence of any big jugs on the board aim it more at the intermediate to advanced climber, which is the only sector which could advisably use the board in any case.
I've been using the board for about two months now, and I have seen some gains. One thing I have found to be true of this board is that I feel far fewer aches and pains following a hard session due to the holds being a friendly shape without diminishing the effect of them for training.
UKC Articles and Gear Reviews by Tom Dixon: