More In This Category
Marmot, in its 40th year of business, is stronger than ever in the technical apparel category. Over the many years that we have... [ full story ]
NEW: Marmot Precip Jacket 2 Apr 2014
The Precip jacket has been a well respected and well known name on the waterproof jacket scene for over a decade. For Spring 2014... [ full story ]
REVIEW: Arc'teryx Alpha Comp Hoody 2 Apr 2014
A thoroughbred ice climbing jacket using a composite of hardshell and softshell materials.
But does this mix of materials make... [ full review ]
REVIEW: Men's Fjorm Down Jacket from Jottnar 28 Mar 2014
With hydrophobic down, can you build a belay jacket with the lightness of down but the resistance to moisture normally associated... [ full review ]
Related UKC Forum discussions
As soon as the Alpha came out of the packaging, it was obvious that it was something a bit different and was clearly going to be a “Marmite” piece of gear.
Montane have taken the comfort and practicality of stretch fleece and added it to the warmth of Polartec synthetic insulation to make a pretty unique item. The sleeves are stretchy and breathable while the torso area is thicker and warmer so it isn’t immediately clear where the Alpha will fit into a clothing system.
As it turned out I adapted my system to accommodate the Alpha and used it just about every day I went out. My initial thought was that it wouldn’t come in to my clothing systems, because I already own a stretch fleece and a Polartec jacket and I didn’t see where a combination of the two would fit in. It worked because it offers the best of both worlds without compromising too much on comfort, warmth or breathability and really has proved to be versatile. I loved the fact that I could stick it in my bag for just about any day and know that it would be used almost regardless of where I was going.
Looking more tired than is appropriate on the way to the Couvercle Refuge.
© Charlie Boscoe, Oct 2013
When the wind is biting and you’re moving fast, the Alpha is ideal as it lets the air come in through the arms but keeps you nice and snug around the torso. It also works well as a piece of insulation in summer conditions and is much warmer than it initially appears. The hood is also excellent, and engulfs a helmet whilst also being pretty snug when you don’t have a lid on. I’ve no idea how Montane managed that but it’s pretty impressive and really adds to the warmth of the jacket with or without a helmet.
It’s not all positive though and I do have the odd gripe with the Alpha. Firstly, the drawcord around the waist doesn’t do up quite tight enough. I’m pretty thin but so are most climbers and mountaineers and it would be better if the waist tightened up slightly more. The other issue is that there is a slight shortage of pockets, with the Alpha only having 2 hip pockets and nothing else. Normally that’s fine for walking but with a harness or rucksack on it leaves you a bit short so I would stick a chest pocket into the jacket. I do like the general lack of faff with the Alpha (no pit zips is always a bonus) but I think one more pocket wouldn’t hurt. The final small problem is with the thumb loops – a feature which I’ve never seen anyone use and is unnecessary in my opinion. Luckily the sleeves grip nicely at the wrist so they don’t get in the way too much.
This is a versatile and unique piece of kit that I can’t recommend highly enough. If you want something to wear for shaded rock climbs, long mountain scrambles or belay duty at a chilly crag, then this is for you. Given that most British climbers are going to experience all those three situations in any given year, I can see this being a bit hit and rightly so.
Designed and developed for climbing, the Alpha Guide Jacket gives effective insulation to the core body whilst leaving the arms free from any restriction. It combines the unique properties of PERTEX® Microlight Stretch, POLARTEC® Alpha and Mt. Thermo X Stretch to create a truly formidable jacket.
The Alpha Guide Jacket provides torso protection in a new and unique way, using the revolutionary POLARTEC® Alpha - the latest evolutionary step in synthetic insulation. With its open, woven construction, POLARTEC® Alpha combines warmth with hyper breathability, whilst at the same time being extremely compressible. This new format of insulation is encased in PERTEX® Microlight Stretch, which provides high wind resistance combined with the stretch needed for climbing movement. The jacket also features a stretch hood that fits underneath a climbing helmet and stretch arms with thumb loops. The Alpha Guide is not so much a piece of clothing, rather a piece of climbing equipment.
Fabric: PERTEX® Microlight Stretch
Insulation: POLARTEC® Alpha
Arm, shoulders and hood fabric: Mt. Thermo X Stretch
Lining: PEAQ Synthetic
Zips: YKK Reverse coil
Black / Cadmium yellow lining
Moroccan blue / Burnt orange lining
Weight: 449g / 15.8oz (SIZE M)
Sizes: S, M, L, XL, XXL
Fit: Active Mountain
Activities: Mountaineering / Fast Alpine / Ice Climbing / Rock Climbing / Backcountry Skiing / Mountain Walking / High Trekking
More Info on Montane Website
Also the Alpha has won a Polartec Award - Read About It Here
UKC Articles and Gear Reviews by Charlie Boscoe: