UKC

Montane Alpha Guide Jacket

© Charlie Boscoe

As soon as the Alpha came out of the packaging, it was obvious that it was something a bit different and was clearly going to be a “Marmite” piece of gear.

Summit of the Aiguille de la Perseverance.  © Charlie Boscoe
Summit of the Aiguille de la Perseverance.
© Charlie Boscoe

Montane have taken the comfort and practicality of stretch fleece and added it to the warmth of Polartec synthetic insulation to make a pretty unique item. The sleeves are stretchy and breathable while the torso area is thicker and warmer so it isn’t immediately clear where the Alpha will fit into a clothing system.

As it turned out I adapted my system to accommodate the Alpha and used it just about every day I went out. My initial thought was that it wouldn’t come in to my clothing systems, because I already own a stretch fleece and a Polartec jacket and I didn’t see where a combination of the two would fit in. It worked because it offers the best of both worlds without compromising too much on comfort, warmth or breathability and really has proved to be versatile. I loved the fact that I could stick it in my bag for just about any day and know that it would be used almost regardless of where I was going.

Looking more tired than is appropriate on the way to the Couvercle Refuge.  © Charlie Boscoe
Looking more tired than is appropriate on the way to the Couvercle Refuge.
© Charlie Boscoe

When the wind is biting and you’re moving fast, the Alpha is ideal as it lets the air come in through the arms but keeps you nice and snug around the torso. It also works well as a piece of insulation in summer conditions and is much warmer than it initially appears. The hood is also excellent, and engulfs a helmet whilst also being pretty snug when you don’t have a lid on. I’ve no idea how Montane managed that but it’s pretty impressive and really adds to the warmth of the jacket with or without a helmet.

It’s not all positive though and I do have the odd gripe with the Alpha. Firstly, the drawcord around the waist doesn’t do up quite tight enough. I’m pretty thin but so are most climbers and mountaineers and it would be better if the waist tightened up slightly more. The other issue is that there is a slight shortage of pockets, with the Alpha only having 2 hip pockets and nothing else. Normally that’s fine for walking but with a harness or rucksack on it leaves you a bit short so I would stick a chest pocket into the jacket. I do like the general lack of faff with the Alpha (no pit zips is always a bonus) but I think one more pocket wouldn’t hurt. The final small problem is with the thumb loops – a feature which I’ve never seen anyone use and is unnecessary in my opinion. Luckily the sleeves grip nicely at the wrist so they don’t get in the way too much.

In short:

This is a versatile and unique piece of kit that I can’t recommend highly enough. If you want something to wear for shaded rock climbs, long mountain scrambles or belay duty at a chilly crag, then this is for you. Given that most British climbers are going to experience all those three situations in any given year, I can see this being a bit hit and rightly so.

Looking fat (it's beanie stuffed down the front, honest) on a chilly late autumn day.  © Charlie Boscoe
Looking fat (it's beanie stuffed down the front, honest) on a chilly late autumn day.
© Charlie Boscoe
Getting ready to descend after the Traverse of the Ecandies. Photo Peter Riley.  © Charlie Boscoe
Getting ready to descend after the Traverse of the Ecandies. Photo Peter Riley.
© Charlie Boscoe
Montane Alpha Guide Jacket  © Montane
What Montane Say:
Designed and developed for climbing, the Alpha Guide Jacket gives effective insulation to the core body whilst leaving the arms free from any restriction. It combines the unique properties of PERTEX® Microlight Stretch, POLARTEC® Alpha and Mt. Thermo X Stretch to create a truly formidable jacket.

The Alpha Guide Jacket provides torso protection in a new and unique way, using the revolutionary POLARTEC® Alpha - the latest evolutionary step in synthetic insulation. With its open, woven construction, POLARTEC® Alpha combines warmth with hyper breathability, whilst at the same time being extremely compressible. This new format of insulation is encased in PERTEX® Microlight Stretch, which provides high wind resistance combined with the stretch needed for climbing movement. The jacket also features a stretch hood that fits underneath a climbing helmet and stretch arms with thumb loops. The Alpha Guide is not so much a piece of clothing, rather a piece of climbing equipment.
Fabric: PERTEX® Microlight Stretch
Insulation: POLARTEC® Alpha
Arm, shoulders and hood fabric: Mt. Thermo X Stretch
Lining: PEAQ Synthetic
Zips: YKK Reverse coil

Colours:
Black / Cadmium yellow lining
Moroccan blue / Burnt orange lining

Weight: 449g / 15.8oz (SIZE M)

Sizes: S, M, L, XL, XXL

Fit: Active Mountain

Activities: Mountaineering / Fast Alpine / Ice Climbing / Rock Climbing / Backcountry Skiing / Mountain Walking / High Trekking

RRP: £130.00
More Info on Montane Website
Also the Alpha has won a Polartec Award - Read About It Here

For more information Montane Website



14 Oct, 2013
//alanhalewood.blogspot.co.uk/2013/10/montane-alpha-guide-on-tower-ridge-and.html?m=1
14 Oct, 2013
But how does the actual Alpha stuff work? Does it feel very different from say a thin Primaloft layer?
14 Oct, 2013
I'd say a good deal more breathable. I'd have expected at least a clammy back with my Montane Prism (40g Eco Primaloft fill) on but there was no sign of sweat/moisture build up the other day. It'll b e interesting to see how it performs in the wet and under a shell.
14 Oct, 2013
Thanks Al - that's what I'm interested in. I'm going to be reviewing an Alpha jacket myself soon and wanted to get my head around the physics. I had always presumed what gets you clammy in a thin primaloft or similar top was the nylon on either side of the insulation, not the insulation itself, but Polartec seem to be saying otherwise.
15 Oct, 2013
I understood the same as you, Toby: that the enveloping fabric lining was responsible for that clammy feeling you get in, say, a Prism, and that the more block structured nature of Alpha allows for a more breathable inner and other lining. What I can say for sure is that my Alpha softshell (Rab Strata) is a considerably more breathable than my Prism. And only a tiny bit less warm. Climbing in Wales last week I seemed to maintain a virtually constant and comfortable temperature from rest to extreme exertion. On the negative side, the elastic hem draw cord has detached from it's mooring at the front on both sides, meaning I can only tighten across the back. Poor execution on that part. Don't they know that gear on the harness is going to snag on the elastic?
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