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The Edge

This wall is a dedicated climbing centre

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Last updated on 22/May/2014

Overview

Mix of up to 15m lead/toprope curved resin panels with bolt-ons. 2 articulated sections by Entre-prises. Own build cellar board, built 1995. Total 1000 sq m of wall surface.

No longer has showers or Cafe. There is a new Cafe down the road but it is expensive though all fair trade and organic!

The place still has excellent routes, people are very friendly but the whole centre is in great need of redecorating. And a good clean up.
A clean and well-maintained wall with good routes and consistent(ish) grades. The routes are changed reasonably frequently but perhaps not as often as some regular users would want. It is a bit lacking in the gently-overhanging department; some vertical stuff and loads of obscenely pumpy stuff, however not much in the middle which makes bridging that fitness gap hard. The bouldering room is excellent with a good variety of long problems. The monthly winter competitions are fun but even if you don't want to do the actual event, the problems stay up for the next month and provide a testing circuit. [Alan James 9/99]
With a new freestanding tower and safety flooring installed throughout during 2001, the Edge offers more than ever, although it can feel very crowded during Winter evenings and weekends, because there are so many routes packed into a single room.
On offer are a large number of vertical lines, along with some good gentle overhangs and some steep stuff. There are 2 articulated walls that can be tilted from slab to 45 degree overhang, an d the routes range from F3+ to F8b+, with something for everyone (I'd say Alan's comment above about the lack of mid-range routes is now out of date). [Nick Smith 02/2002]
The main leading wall is articulated so it can be changed from anything from vertical to 45 degrees overhanging. Bouldering (125 square metres, it claims)includes some interesting jamming cracks and a 6b/c flying arete. Also cafe serving hot and cold food, changing facilities, courses and gear hire. [Charles Arthur 10/98]
Both the climbing walls and bouldering walls have proved popular but could do with more rwegular clening. In particular the easier climbs have extremely greasy holds, making them more difficult than higher grades. Overall it is OK for easy climbers, very good for the more experienced and daring, but nothing much for the mid-range. [Wendy Sockett 9/05]

Reviews


10 Dec, 2007
I visted this wall for the first time yesterday, after travelling up from Nottingham. I agree with the existing review of the routes and would certainly say that i found some of the holds a little greasy. Unfortunately I found the reception a little frosty and not what I've expereinced at most other walls where the vibe is generally more welcoming and staff are willing to help out as much as possible. I small gripe I know, afterall it's the climbing that's important. But it was enough to make me think twice before I visit there again.

10 Mar, 2006
The excellent Woodie facility was closed in 2005, then the 'pit' was filled in (making the main wall shorter) and the seating was removed (nowhere to store bags now). Now the excellent little cafe has shut as well :( Apparently there will be venting machines available, and a posh cafe a few doors down the road, but still... the Edge has gone downhill a long way in just 1 year!

28 Apr, 2005
The Woodie, situated next to the Edge, was opened in September 2001 and is possibly the largest dedicated training facility in the country. Members only (£100 for the year) it has an impressive range of boards at all angles, including a good roof.

20 Mar, 2005
The main articulated Entreprise wall set at 45 degrees is a superb facility made interesting by the many good features for feet. Unfortunately its not set at 45 degrees that often though you can always ask to have the angle changed. Seem to be plenty of middle grade routes at the present with loads from 5+ to 7a.
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