Best of Genuss Band 1

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These details were last updated on 01/Feb/2010
Best of Genuss Band 1, 3 kbAuthor Rudolf Kühberger, Gerald Forchthammer
Published Panico (2008)
ISBN 978-3-936740-37-0

Website
www.panico.de/de/panico_buecher/auswahlfuehrer_alpin...

Review
Selected climbs guide covering the Salzburger and Berchtesgadener Alps. The guide covers climbs in the range from IV to VII, although the emphasis is more on climbs at the upper end of this range. Furthermore the guide concentrates on the many new bolted climbs which have been established in this area in the last two decades. For example, the Hinterstoisser/Kurz and the Barth Chimney, two well-known classics on the Berchtesgadener Hochthron from the start of the 20th century, are ignored in favour of newer but less well-known climbs. On the other hand, the guide contains many routes currently (2010) not described anywhere else. The authors are prolific new-routers in this region and include many of their own climbs.

The guidebook has many colour photographs for inspiration as well as colour crag photos with the lines of the routes. Each climb recieves a well-drawn topo as well as notes on approach and descent in German. Some climbs also receive a pitch by pitch description.

Of greatest interest to visiting climbers is likely to be the Hochkönig massif. A great number of the climbs in this massif are equipped with the controversial home-made Sigi-bolts. These have been responsible for at least one fatal accident and subsequently shown in tests by the German Alpine Club (DAV) to show a large spread in failure loads. The authors have consequently decided not to describe any the routes protected by Sigi-bolts, but still manage to include a large selection of other routes in the Hochkönig.

Crags covered by this Guide

Hochkönig Massif crags# climbsRocktypeFaces
Grosser Bratschenkopf6Limestoneall
Hochkönig7Limestoneall
Torsäule10Limestoneall
Total climbs23