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These details were last updated on 11/Oct/2013
Ogwen, 4 kbAuthor Mike Bailey
Published Climbers' Club (2010)
ISBN 978-0-901601-83-4


A very thorough reassessment of the climbing on the south side of the A5, based around the ever-popular Tryfan and Cwm Idwal areas, including 140 new routes climbed since the last guide, and many ‘rediscovered’ older climbs. The new routes are at all grades and on both old and new crags. Among the latter are the Eastern Cliffs of Gallt yr Ogof, including Skyline Buttress, the location of some of the hardest climbing in Wales such as the E9 Mission Impossible.

With many action photos, all-colour photodiagrams, and 93 photoplans as well as bouldering sections by Simon Panton. The guide also has a chronology (a combination of the historical and first ascents sections), which includes short biographical notes on the leading activists over the years. Particular attention has also been given to highlighting some of the easier climbs, which are now often climbed as scrambles. A graded list and index complete the guide.

The guide also includes the climbing on the north side of the A4086 between Pen y Gwyrd and Capel Curig, and the excellent climbing on the Creigiau Llynnau Mymbyr (the Ricks and Racks).

Crags covered by this Guide

Betws-y-coed crags# climbsRocktypeFaces
Craig y Gelynen10UNKNOWNSE
Gallt yr Ogof9DoleriteE
Gwynedd crags# climbsRocktypeFaces
Bristly Ridge (East Face)12RhyoliteE
Caseg Fraith Boulder28Welsh igneousNW
Clogwyn Bochlwyd18RhyoliteNW
Clogwyn Du Ymhen Y Glyder32RhyoliteNE
Clogwyn Y Geifr62RhyoliteNE
Clogwyn y Tarw (The Gribbin Facet)72RhyoliteN
Craig Caseg Fraith Isaf15Welsh igneousNW
Craig Caseg Fraith Uchaf6Rhyolite?
Craig Y Dwr, Craftnant32Volcanic tuff?
Craig yr Haul16RhyoliteS
Creigiau'r Dena7RhyoliteN
Cwm Cneifion33RhyoliteNW
Dyffryn Mymbyr32RhyoliteS
Glyder Fach97RhyoliteN
Glyder Fawr crag30RhyoliteN
Idwal Slabs (aka Cwm Idwal)106RhyoliteW
Idwall Quarry / Tin Can Alley6Welsh igneousE
Milestone Buttress39RhyoliteNW
Sub Cneifion Rib8RhyoliteNW
The Pillar of Elidir10UNKNOWNNE
Tryfan (East Face)79RhyoliteE
Tryfan (West Face)16RhyoliteW
Tryfan Bychan8UNKNOWN?
Tryfan Fach (Little Tryfan)25RhyoliteNW
Total climbs808