130m, 5 pitches. The original line up the stack. Takes the landward face and is essentially a crack climb therefore large cams and hexentrics are useful as are 60m ropes for the descent.

Rustie Baillie, Christian Bonington and Dr Tom Patey 18/Jul/1966

Ticklists: Hard Rock, Top 25 UKC Wishlist Rock Climbs, Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, Ultimate Scottish Rock, Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes, MIA logbook must haves!, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Summer Trip 2014, Trad on every UK island, Ultimate E1 ticklist, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist.

Hidden 29/Sep AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/Sep AltLd
gavinpeach 14/Sep AltLd O/S

Awesome adventure. We led the climb in 6 pitches and I led pitches 2,3,4,5,6. Pitch 1 and 2 as per guide, we did a short pitch 3 up to belay tat below an offwidth; ended up taking the offwidth up to a ledge above an old hex rather than the easier pitch to the right; the offwidth is dirty but involves some more interesting climbing. I then belayed from the ledge and we led an intermediate pitch back onto the original route and the corner pitch. A great day out and we were lucky with the weather. It started raining on the second abseil after perfect weather in the morning for the climb. 3hrs 30 mins to climb and 3 abseils. On the abseil the wind was blowing the ropes and me all around the old man :-)

johnstacksanders 12/Sep -
with Al Sanders
Samantha Dickson 31/Aug 2nd O/S
Timothy Miller 31/Aug Lead O/S
with sammy D
jev 23/Aug AltLd O/S

Great adventure! Was sunny but too windy to stand at the top. Lead P1, 3, 5.

with Jonas
mattfarr 16/Aug Lead O/S

Hoy is a great place to spend a couple of days. The route felt adventurous, pitch two and five are decent. All went well, we lucked out with the weather. Amazing experience overall.

with Dave C
Davecapewell 16/Aug 2nd O/S

Awesome climb. Best adventure to date.

Hidden 11/Aug AltLd
Ian Jones 11/Aug AltLd O/S

Disgusting! Poor 1st pitch, 5c crux (seriously) and sandy. Glad to get off it.

with Robert Durran (aka 'Big Bob')
owain86 07/Aug AltLd O/S

Finally got around to going and doing this! Great trip.

with Chris
Hidden 04/Aug AltLd RP
08nbrierley 04/Aug AltLd O/S

Worth the journey. Lead pitches 2 and 4. Was a raining a bit at the start and very windy. Just managed to get the first ferry in and last back to Stromness.

with jamie
lukehunt ?/Aug Lead O/S
with Vikky
Hidden 02/Jul AltLd
Fred_Richard 23/Jun -
with Pete
Hidden 15/Jun AltLd O/S
salix 15/Jun AltLd O/S

Lead easy middle pitches past Fulmars. Perfect weather, and great climbing. Top pitch is the best. Fantastic day out.

with Brian, Euan, Amy, Noemie
noemie5438 15/Jun AltLd
AGoodi 15/Jun AltLd O/S
TimKnight 12/Jun AltLd O/S

Top day - Making the last ab in the dark added to the mix

with Andrew Mitchell, Nick Charteris
Hidden 12/Jun -
Peter Metcalfe 11/Jun AltLd
mshansen 30/May 2nd
Pat-H 23/May Lead O/S
with mhairi
Mhairi G 23/May 2nd
with Patrick
HeatherF 22/May AltLd O/S
with Jonny Baker
markfairbank 04/May AltLd O/S

Seemed unlikely sat in the van in Rackwick bay in the rain but cleared up just in time! Started at 3, back down by 9. Immense, led p2, 3 and 5. No fulmars but plenty of sand and dampness to contend with.

Anne Gumbley 04/May AltLd
Hidden 09/Apr AltLd O/S
plain kitten ??/2015 -
jimxxx ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
madeleine 04/Oct/14 2nd O/S
with Ry
Ri 04/Oct/14 Lead rpt

Every pitch this time. Nicer conditions all round despite the shower on the Pitch 2 belay.

glenngordon 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S

http://www.glenngordon.co.uk/the-old-man-of-hoy/ Well done Mr. Duffy. It was the route that you had set your heart on and you climbed it well. Yes!

with iain thomson, ray duffy
Iain2754 13/Sep/14 2nd
with Ray Duff, Glen Gorden
davebrox 10/Sep/14 AltLd
with Ben Wallace, Vanders
erictant 15/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Absolutely awesome experience. 8 hours base to base. Spent an hour on the top in beautiful weather waiting for 2 other parties. Led P2 and top pitch as Paul let me take all the glory; Thanks mate! Really sandy on P2 but managed it without pulling on anything. Incredible exposure and none of the pictures prepares you for how deep the chimney is. Thought the crux was the move after the pull onto the face. Paul took direct hit from a chick on P3, could still smell it all the way home.

with Paul
madasten 15/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Incredible experience - not just the climb (which is epic in its own right) but the whole island is remote, beautiful and unforgettable. One of my best days of trad climbing ever! Around 6 1/2 hours bottom to bottom as we were the third group on it that day and were climbing as a trio. Lead pitches 2, 3 & 5. Drank beer and scotch on the top and danced naked... of course.

with Nicola, Anna, Miquel, Gaz
gazfellows 15/Aug/14 Lead

First off! This is no way a 3* route! ..... 10* is more appropriate. The adventure starts as soon as you get in the car. Everything from the go is a proper climbing experience ! For me this is the perfect climbing experience and the Old Man certainly has all the ingredients! If your lucky enough to go to Hoy make sure you stay until you have climbed the Original route. And I'll guarantee you won't be disappointed. If you are then maybe you should take up Green Bowls! The second pitch alone is worth the trip. EXELLENT Thanx for this one Sir C.B

with Nic
Hidden 05/Aug/14 2nd O/S
RKernan 31/Jul/14 AltLd

4 day mission from Belfast. Did in 6 pitches,got confused on P3. Led P2, 3 and 5. P2 was interesting! Got surprised by a fulmar on P5, flinched and fell past the belay onto ancient gear! tweaked ankle and bruised arse. Great route. 5 hour round trip base on route.

with Conor Gilmour
Robb Bert 25/Jul/14 AltLd

Led P1,3&5. Fantastic weather. Only had a tee shirt so happy everything went as planned.

Ross.Cooper 22/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

P 1, 3, 5. Amazing climb in amazing weather. Fulmar chicks tried to chunder on us, almost got taken out by a dead bird on 4th pitch.

Patrick Hill 22/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 2 and 4. Pitch 2 was spectacular but very sandy.

greglad ?/Jul/14 -
Hidden 28/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Cardi 24/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Lovely day. Led P2,4&5. Rock dry, and not too sandy despite rain the day before. Crux felt like old school Whillans and Brown HVS, hard bit quite short lived then wonderful cruise to the belay. Jon got destroyed by 2 fulmars on the fulmar crux of pitch 3. Pitch 4 was much more obvious once I was on it. Pitch 5 was awesome. Great views from the top, but apparently missed a pod of killer whales passing moments before! Razorbills and puffins on top. Abseil down to an intermediate belay on pitch 4, then to the top of P2 on 60m ropes. Then the most exposed abseil ever down to the ground! Wine on the beach at Rackwick bay to top off a great day.

with Jon W
phil64 09/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

An amazing climb in an amazing place, Even worth doing just for the journey.Great to get so close to the fulmars and puffins.. haha Pefect gear would be single rack wires couple small cams then 2 x f3, 2 xf3.5, 1 xf4, 1,camalot4 & 1xf5. oh and lots of slings and long draws. Would be good to take a knife and new rope to replace the bundles of rotten tat. Next time!

with matt dean
SMc 07/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Luke, Ged
mshorter 04/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with steely, dunc
sparkass 04/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

With two of the best, thanks to Mike for tackling the tough stuff. Sandy, rainy, birdy and great. Although I seem to have an uncontrollable fear of fulmars! A good achievement and a proper mini adventure.

with Mike Shorter and Iain Steele
steely 04/Jun/14 2nd

Magic day out in the wind rain and fulmar vomit. Thanks to Duncan and mike for dragging me up it!

peter.ravenscroft27 29/May/14 AltLd O/S

we finally made the pilgrimage and was not disappointed. an absolutely stunning, mind blowing, gnarly climb which I have ever done! started at 6:36pm and topped out at 10:39pm. i could have made sandcastles on all the holds on crux pitch. final abseil was in the dark! If you need a bus/taxi from moaness to rackwick as missed the one advertised phone: 01856791263. he will fit your needs and pick you up within 2 mins notice.

with Jack Godwin
Dave Turnbull, BMC 26/May/14 AltLd rpt

P2 definitely not easy; a struggle unless in dry condition. 5th time up the Old Man.

with Noah Rees, Harry Turnbull, Chris Rees
cobweb 25/May/14 AltLd
with Allan Moore, euan naismith
whispering nic 20/May/14 Lead O/S

Very atmospheric and a big adventure. The in situ rope between the 1st and 2nd stance is worn to a thread, so take 60m ropes to get straight to the deck from the top of pitch two, or a third 50 to tie between the two belays. Lots of Dubious tat on all the belays. From the bottom of the final corner pitch we made two big abseils which worked a treat. Only one fulmar was on target!

with Gerard
Simon Allcock ??/2014 AltLd O/S

led pitches 2 & 5. awesome sunny day, got the fulmar experience

with Wilki
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
James Thacker ??/2014 -
James Thacker ??/2014 -
chrisdevon 27/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

I led pitch 4 and 5 as a single pitch. Climbed them clean on site. One rest on pitch 2 coming out of chimney. Absolutely amazing experience and varied, exciting climbing.

with Lloyd
GazzerM54 21/Sep/13 AltLd

Exceptionally good trip. All the ingredients of why you start climbing in the first place! Cunning line, traverses, historical debris, sandy jamming, wild exposure and a good old fashioned battle up pitch 2 that you won't forget! Thanks to Albert and Fay on Hoy for hospitality and transport. We got the ferry back in time and walked into the Orkney Blues festival at Stromness saturday night! Traditional celebrations ensued!

with Ronnie Wriggs
Ri 13/Sep/13 AltLd

P2, 4 & 5. Great to do it.

Hugh Macgregor 13/Sep/13 AltLd

Pitch 1&3, no crux for me.

cat22 08/Sep/13 2nd
with Mike
tumbling wizard ?/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
with andrew marshall
Fragmod 26/Aug/13 Lead
Brown 26/Aug/13 AltLd
with Andy R
pbuggy91 25/Aug/13 AltLd dog

Lead pitch 3 & 4, fell seconding pitch 2

James Oakes 25/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Very cool route, led pitch 2. Belays need tidying up a bit and the ab rope for p2 is knackered and probably unnecessary.

hlegge 25/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

I lead the first and last pitches. The second pitch was hard and sketchy, the last pitch was amazing! Couldn't find the book on top which was a shame.

with Peter Bugryniec, James Oakes
Hidden 21/Aug/13 AltLd
danimal88 17/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

so after 5 washes the fulmar vomit is just about leaving my trousers. epic climb. finished last pitch and all abseils in the dark with one head torch in a bit of a maelstrom. climbed some vertical protectionless sand on pitch 4 courtessy of the glatter guide description. Yes I know it's my own fault for bringing it etc. Apologies for the probably now in situ rope situation from pitch 2 to the coll. amazing climb now it's finished. Update. thanks to AL for removing ropes from P2. if anyone manages to bring them back to the mainland and let us know that would be grand.

with charlie
Craig Holden 14/Aug/13 Lead O/S

pretty straight forward, crux sandy and bold. Got ropes stuck on ab from top of P2. Airy pruisik back up next morning.

with Robbie
Hidden 09/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
tomosb 08/Aug/13 AltLd
with Darren Thompson
Kevster 08/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Adventure! Fulmars in place still, only a couple though.

Gavdee1 08/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Led first pitch, Kev then led the crux, Tony led the third pitch before Kev led through to the top

with Tony Johnson, Kev
tonevert 08/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Very Sandy

with Gavin, Kevin Faux
Hidden 05/Aug/13 AltLd
Fiona McFarlane ?/Aug/13 AltLd

I led pitch 1,3 and 5 all clean. Fell on the crux on second on pitch 2 though. What a glorious route!

with Sarah Bayley
Hidden 23/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Gordon Lacey 19/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
AndyL ?/Jul/13 AltLd

Great day out!

with Antony
cuthill76 29/Jun/13 Lead

A great climbing adventure just a shame that the actual climbing is so poor. The crux pitch was just so sandy, and 3 and 4 scrappy and dirty. The top pitch is probably the best of the lot.

scotclimb 29/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Got it ticked, but the climbing is poor!!

afcervantesluna 19/Jun/13 2nd O/S

Second all climb, Except P5

Rachel Slater 16/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

A great route, not for any of the pitches but the situation as a whole! We set of from the base at 9 and reached the ground again at 2. I lead pitch 1 and 3, Olli pitch 2 (very sandy) and Liam pitch 4. Pitch 3 I got covered in fulmar vomit which managed to cover all the clothes i was wearing despite wearing a full set of disposable waterproofs on top (looking like I was about to go caving, not climbing!).

Hidden 16/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Olli-C 16/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

3 day mission from york. Lead second pitch, avoided fulmar's vom until final abseil. Worrying stood on top knowing that you have to abseil past all the birds again. Liam did excellent job leading the abbs, fixed rope from top of second pitch to the ground definitely helped pull us across.

HansStuttgart ?/Jun/13 AltLd

Great adventure

Dan Vaj 26/May/13 2nd β

Wow. Fulmar puke could not detract from this climb. Pitch 2 sandy and exposed.

with James Machaffie
Alex Mason 22/May/13 Lead O/S

Led P1,P3 and P4. Fucking cool climb. Wind was so strong our ropes blew out fully horizontal on the last abseil.

with George Ullrich
Hidden 19/May/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden ?/Oct/12 Lead
NeilOMalley 27/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

led P3&5, kudos to Jase for P2 and 4. bit green on the upper pitches 3&4 quite a bit of rain but still not too bad. no fulmars, no midges, awesome route. Aside from the daylight hours it seems like a good time of year to head. Stayed in the bothy for three nights. WARNING there is no beer on the island... not within walking distance anyway.

Hidden 10/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
Milne 10/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

led pitches 1, 3 &4. not sure how i got landed with the scrappy ones (with no gear). epic voyage, set off from belper 21:00 sunday, topped out in the dark 20:15 monday after no rest or sleep. exciting abseil into a pitch black abyss in the rain. scramble out up the grass far more scary than the route. no fulmars to be seen, but crux pitch was like being on the beach, god knows how dave led it. its worth all the effort just for P5, truly awsome position when the stack splits in 2, and you can see right through it.

with jeff, dave saxby
DP1977 06/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1, 3 and 5, Dave P led 2 and 4. All clean onsights - 2nd pitch crux crack damp and sandy. Top pitch awesome, down via two abseils (incl one 60m free hanging). An uber-classic.

with David Potter
timjones 02/Sep/12 2nd

What can I say. A fantastic route only slightly spoilt by the fact that I had to second it all due to broken ribs. I WILL be back to lead it!

with Neil McLean
A Crook 28/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

The pilgrimage now complete. So many superlatives used already about the climb that I can't really add to what has been said, but I will try. This is more than just a 135m sea stack. It is a climbers pilgrimage, a journey beginning at your home and ending on a ferry as you watch it slide into the distance. To me this was one of the summits that inspired me as child to want to start climbing, so to stand on that almost hollowed summit was quite something else. It did not matter that it was sandy in places or that parts of the route are little more than scrambling. Standing on the top with a good friend waving at the walkers on the head land was magic. I just felt sorry for the seal for dropping a rope on his head. A cracking few days.

NeilGriffiths 28/Aug/12 AltLd

A tremendous journey. Synergy - remote, committing, historic, scenic, adventurous, wildlife, good company, great characters on the way etc. The climbing is good, steep and exposed in places with a pitch from the gods to finish. I like interesting. I like celebrating with a bottle of malt.

with Adam
James Oswald 15/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Lead the 2nd pitch and 4th. Simply ace but sandy. We were both sicked on...

with Colin Angus
Hidden 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
victim of mathematics 08/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Led P1, 3 & 5. A few in situ fulmars on P3, but otherwise a brilliant experience. Pitches 2 and 5 are both excellent.

petekeron 07/Aug/12 AltLd O/S


Dickon151 07/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Tim M 07/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
climbergg 07/Aug/12 AltLd
Jevans ?/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
MonkeyDawson 28/Jul/12 Lead

2nd time. Made even better by the pipes from the headland and a wee ceilidh on top!

with Zoe
Hidden 14/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
MonkeyDawson 14/Jul/12 AltLd
Euan Strachan 11/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Sandy wide crack: cracking. Did with mediumish size cams, there's 'plenty' of tat on route for the clipping. was windy enough to have probably abbed on 50m ropes! Last pitch is 4 star!

with Graham Dawson
puppythedog 05/Jun/12 AltLd β

Mark P1,P3 and P5. I took P2 and P4. Epic day, no idea how long it took because we were fortunate enough to meet some other climbers at the base and needed to wait our turn (weather was nice enough I didn't even check my watch). Sandy as anything on all the holds, the crux felt 5b but the hardest 5b I've ever done because of the conditions. I was really chuffed to get up and just as chuffed to get down. I also nailed the Geocache on the top :-)

Mark Collins 05/Jun/12 AltLd dog

Lead pitches 1, 3, and 5 but fell at the crux. Way out adventure. I found talking to the birds meant they didn't puke on me, or was it that I was the last to pass and they had run out of ammo. The abseil from the top of pitch 2 to the ground is the most out landish of my life. Such a relief to touch down safely. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IES0QA0vupI

Hidden 03/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Andrew Sloan 29/May/12 AltLd dog

Led pitches 1,3 and 5. Struggled seconding up 5b pitch and fell trying to do move round second overhang and had to rest: thought it was nails hard. Also very sandy.Have waited a long time to get this big tick.Climbed in 3 hours 35 mimutes.3 abseils down with 60m ropes.Got vomited on by several of those little bastards!

Martin Haworth 29/May/12 AltLd O/S

Fantastic route. Quite an expedition.

with Andy
iforwms 07/May/12 AltLd O/S

Tim lead pitches 1 and 2, Rich pitch 4, and I climbed 3 and 5. Great route, massive move out of the crack, even seconding.

with Rich Harris, Tim
TimPerkin 07/May/12 AltLd O/S

Great adventure! Led first and second pitches. Take big cams for the sandy, steep and excellent pitch 2, and attach a rope between 1st and 2nd belays for the descent or you will be left dangling in space. Last man down detaches the rope and gets pulled in by partners! Some of the in-situ ropes are shredded, and a bit of a nuisance as our ropes got tangled with them. Also had to reclimb part of pitch 3 to free rope.

with Ifor Williams, Richard Harris
iforwms 04/May/12 2nd dnf
with Rich Harris, Tim
Paul Evans 29/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

Fantastic experience and wonderful weather, we were so lucky. Some notes - the rope from the top of P2 to P1 belay is now through to the core, best to ab straight from top of P2 with 60m ropes. The belays at the top of P4 and P3 are rusty pegs and bolts, we put new tat on P4 belay and maillons on both these belays. We and others have also left backup wires at these belays, not a great solution. At some point these belays are going to need properly re-equipping. P4 and P4 abs have the rope running over ledges and even with a euro death knot it can still jam (Jim had to go back up to free ours on P3).

Hidden ??/2012 -
JonG ??/2012 -
Narked4fun ??/2012 Lead
with George Wright, Keith Bell
Steven Carter ??/2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Sep/11 AltLd
stephen ashworth 10/Sep/11 2nd
with john frost, martin clarke, floss_81
Frostie 09/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

What a Brilliant climb, lead the last 4 pitches. The last 2 pitches were a bit damp because it started to rain. If your thinking about having a go at climbing it don't be put off by the 5b crux move its not that bad. Enjoy.

with Floss, Martin Clarke, Steve Ashworth
martin clarke 09/Sep/11 AltLd

What an adventure a little slippery and damp from pitch 3. Thanks to john and the team for an unforgettable trip.

Laura Hamlet 27/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Sandy stuff on first two pitches. Some lower offs/belays looking a bit rusty but held ok for us! In situ rope for 2nd last abseil in good condition. We had to leave our twin ropes on the last abseil due to force 9 gale whipping them into spaghetti.

with Owen Raybould, Tim Hamlet
Tim Hamlet 27/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Laura Mckenna
Hidden 09/Aug/11 AltLd
nige 09/Aug/11 AltLd

Great experience. It would be good to take a knife up to cut some of the tat away from the fixed belays. Some of the belay gear is in good condition but some is very old and rotten. It would be good to remove the old stuff as it gets in the way, especially at the top of pitch two. There is a fixed line in place from the top of pitch one to the top of pitch two which is in good nick at present.

with ewan mccallum, mark hounslea
Bargate_Champ 24/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Left Guernsey on the Friday and after 3 ferries and driving the entire length of Britain we climbed the route on the Sunday. Check out this video of the road trip http://vimeo.com/31877132

Tophe 24/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Drove approx 800miles from Guernsey, on the first metre of climbing Nathan got sand in his eye and we had to bail due to the wind, It was him that planned it all so quite comical looking back at it. We climbed it the next day,It was very windy which made for a hard climb but it was somehow sheltered on the top, the crux pitch felt like E2+ plus to me and I was on a top rope!

crabby2009 24/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Awesome - 25th Birthday challenge for the 25th Anniversary of the Guernsey Mountaineering Club! Took a bit longer than planned but went pretty smoothly. Placed a geocache at the top, as we could't find the ascent book.

chrism225 21/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with jonny
M_W_Court 21/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Epic!! Left Sheffield at 0300hrs and summitted at 2330hrs. Abbed off in the dark with one headtorch (mine) between four of us. Couldn't resist the lure when we arrived on hoy at 1800hrs and started climbing at 1930hrs. Spent about an hour and a half on the first ledge waiting for the pair with us to get through the crux pitch. Good climbing throughout, although the second pitch was pretty slippery (Although not as bad as Jonny made it sound!!) but still quality.

with Stuart Cartwright, Jonny Rae
JRae 21/Jul/11 AltLd

Epic. Spent a while cleaning / drying holds on the crux pitch which was like climbing on wet ball bearings - definitely didn't want to skid off this thing! Awesome climbing in a brilliant situation, the most exciting bit was dodging the fulmars!

Nic DW 14/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 1 and 3.

with rob askew
Hidden 13/Jul/11 2nd
Hidden 09/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
simon_D 04/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Alex took the crux which had interesting out-there moves past the 2nd roof (hard with a bag on) but a great route and some incredulous situations (especially the pile of loose plates on top! and the sand..) 60m ab from the top of p2 crux overhangs will get you to the floor as we found out..

with Alex
Misha 01/May/11 AltLd O/S

The hardest bit was sorting the logistics a couple of days beforehand... Left Solihull 5.45am, Phil drove all the way, 6.30pm ferry to St Margaret's Bay, fly camped at Yesnaby, did four routes there, afternoon ferry from Houton to Hoy, camped outside the bothy (fantastic place). Didn't manage an early start so only started climbing at 1pm but that was ok as no one else on the route, in fact didn't see any other climbers all weekend. No bird problems either - a few fulmars sitting on ledges off to the side but not nesting yet. Helen led P1 (nice warm up) and P4 (going off route up an offwidth to start with), Phil led P2 crux, I led P3 (bit dirty) and P5 (great bridging on clean rock all the way, best pitch). Topped out at 7pm and took in the view and atmosphere. Perfect blue sky and hardly any wind all day - what more could we have wished for? Four abs back down, including final 60m free handing ab, took two and a half hours but at least the ropes pulled through fine. Back down at 10pm, just enough light to walk back up onto the headland, then walked back in the dark. Late dinner in the bothy, then up at 5.30am to get the 7.10am ferry. Looked at a couple of prehistoric monuments before getting the Pentland ferry at noon. Back in Solihull at 1.30am, home for 2am, work next day. Good route, great experience. Thanks to Phil for the vision! (Also thanks to William & Kate for the extra day off)

with Helen, Phil
philhilo 01/May/11 AltLd O/S

Wow, what an experience, the drive, the ferries, Yesnaby, Rackwick, the company and finally the climb. Everything I had hoped for and worth every penny (lots) every minute (4 days) and every mile (1300). Helen P1, me P2 crux - no soft touch, required plenty of thinking about, Misha P3 and P5 (best pitch of VS I have done anywhere. Had to reclimb 1/2 a pitch on the third ab after rope lassoed a gargoyle way off line. The few birds were far more interested in bonking than us! Back to the top of headland in the dark - so much for summer rock finishing early. Helen had been warned to take a headtorch climbing with us!

Hidden 29/Apr/11 AltLd
jonny taylor 26/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

What an incredible route! Everything I had hoped for. Found the second roof an extremely taxing (and sandy) offwidth problem. Top pitch was just sensational.

with Andy B
ablackett 26/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with Jonny
beds74 25/Apr/11 Lead

Classic! Amazing effort from the other half...As she had hung up her climbing boots! Good weather.

with Rebecca Edwards
pete87abs 24/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with marcel, rob
Hidden 15/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
walts4 ??/2011 -
adie84 ??/2011 -
adie84 ??/2011 -
newtonmore ??/2011 AltLd
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/2011 -
Johnny Baker ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
sebrider 18/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

I'm speechless for once! Perhaps some really nice person with a sharp knife could clean up the hoards of tat off this thing, its litter in an amazing place. If I go again it will be cleaned! Especially the tat off the crux :(

Hidden 18/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
andyinglis 05/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
Neil Adams 05/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
paulnc 05/Sep/10 AltLd

Took all day climbing as a three with strong winds - one of the most adventurous days climbing I've ever had! Then back to the brilliant bothy by the beach - I'll remember this one for a while :)

with Rob Doman, Pete Cole
Captain Solo 04/Sep/10 AltLd

Interesting day, a bit windy, crux pitch holds were a bit damp and sandy so ended up taking a wee fall. Straightforward after that! Great climbing and exciting abseil, glad to get ropes back ok.

with Mike
mikemartin 04/Sep/10 AltLd

I got the 1st, 3rd and 5th pitches. Ewan took a 10 metre whipper from the crux, he was held by a bit of tat around a wooden wedge. Easily the finest climbing adventure I've ever had.

Hidden ?/Sep/10 AltLd RP
Hidden 30/Aug/10 Lead
Will_Maxwell 25/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Absolutely amazing! Lead 2nd and 4th pitch! 2nd pitch was an absolute belter!

with Rafael Pena
tom106 24/Aug/10 Lead O/S

incredible! will not forget 2nd pitch

John Tanner 24/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Tom Led: 2 and 4 I Led: 1, 3 and 5 Pitch 2: What a crux! Pitch 5: Stunning moves and topping out is awesome

funsized 24/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Tom took p2. Manage to end up in esoteric finish to p3 that finish in a heart-in-mouth traverse (i.e. went left up the chimney)

with Tom Green
Hidden 14/Aug/10 2nd
Graham Westbrook ?/Aug/10 AltLd
Theeni ?/Aug/10 AltLd
eddy-on-the-rocks 27/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Started at 5pm after a long march from the ferry. Toughest e1 I've ever done. A seagull was sick in max's mouth. Awesome.

with max
cox 01/Jul/10 Lead rpt
Si Carter 22/Jun/10 Lead

With Rich Long, Mark Fairhurst.

French Erick 05/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
richardlong78 05/Jun/10 AltLd
with Mark Fairhurst, Simon Carter
Mark Fairhurst 05/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
John Roe 04/Jun/10 AltLd

Fantastic evenings climbing

Hidden 04/Jun/10 AltLd
Hidden 22/May/10 -
Hidden 11/May/10 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
richtea21 ??/2010 AltLd
with S.Pelly
prcleary ??/2010 -
Skinny Kin 09/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

It was still windy when we started the route at 1400 but sunny. After the crux pitch, it was very calm on the leeward side. The crux is definitely 5b; so sandy. The sunset at the top was icing on the cake. But the stuck abseil ropes were a bit of faff. Quite errie abseiling into pitch black. Fantastic bothy and magical beach. All add to the experience of climbing the Old Man. Will be back for my 40th.

hawkins321 ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S

fantastic adventure! did during high winds, the tail end of a hurricane!, so couldn't stand on the top long. epic.

with rosie atkinson
ewen 11/Aug/09 AltLd
with jeb
Hidden ?/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Leelogs 25/Jul/09 2nd O/S
with Chris
Mr Tickle 15/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

Thanks Dave, brilliant adventure. Damp on crux pitch which made it feel hard for 5b. Lifetime memories. Lead all apart from 1st pitch.

with davenev
davenev 15/Jul/09 -

Luke you've enabled me to get to some great places but this was the best. Simply awesome adventure cheers mate! :)

with luke
Hidden 27/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
westaway 21/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Imelda Neale
Hidden 02/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/09 AltLd
Steve Waters, Mynydd 29/May/09 AltLd

A super adventure on a perfect day - sunny and calm. We had camped at Rackwick Bothy the night before (unmissable - a superb spot). Started climbing at 9am. Summited at 1pm. I led pitches 1, 2 and 4 (Fulmar thwacker required on the latter pitch). Pulled on the sling at the crux roof. Waited 5 hours on top in the scorching sun for the other 4 parties to complete before abseling down. Retrieved two abandoned 60m ropes on the stunning final abseil (returned to owners the next day).

with Mike Tempest and Dave Wilson
Dave Mason 29/May/09 AltLd O/S

Brilliant.....nothing more to be said

with Adam Gill
mtempest 29/May/09 AltLd
with Steve Waters, Mynydd
Hidden 29/May/09 Lead
Hidden 25/May/09 AltLd O/S
Joemanglerocks 22/May/09 AltLd

Lead all but crux pitch. Incredible weather, very lucky. 3+ Fulmer strikes but puffins friendly enough.

with Bill O'Neill, Smiler Cuthbertson
colina 21/May/09 2nd O/S

too much to say here my 50th year...awesome adventure ,something i will remember for the rest of my life.last pitch was better than sex

with bob and smiler cuthbertson
Smelly Fox 20/May/09 AltLd O/S

Lead all but the first pitch. A very memorable day indeed. Especially the lightning strike!

with Scott Webster
sonaf 05/Oct/08 AltLd

led 1st & 3rd

with Chopper
Hidden 20/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/08 2nd
babymoac 17/Aug/08 AltLd

On the top on 50th birthday, perfect timing, shame to miss the boat to the pub !

cem 17/Aug/08 AltLd dog
Hidden ?/Aug/08 2nd
Christian Beck ?/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

Awesome Adventure!

Hidden 20/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Ed Booth 20/Jul/08 Lead O/S

Got naked on the top ;-)

Adam Booth 20/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
with Vish, Roel
twright180 15/Jul/08 AltLd O/S

i lead the crux

with John McCune
steveboote ?/Jul/08 AltLd

With Vic Belshaw and John Sage...stunning

richiebongo 30/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Jim Slater 05/Jun/08 AltLd O/S

Fantastic climb. Led final pitch.

with Mike Hale, Nick Carter
Hidden 04/Jun/08 AltLd
thrutch 25/May/08 AltLd O/S

Awesome climb. Worth doing just to climb the top pitch. 7 hours up and down. Best weather and views. We each lead climbed the top pitch and lowered back down thus letting us get down with 2 full abseils on 60m jobs.

with and Mel
upontop 25/May/08 AltLd

A classic climb and location, last pitch is the best and most enjoyable, but it was all chocolate.We had the stack to ourselves,except for the Fulmars who struck with accuracy.

with Tim
Andrew Barker 05/May/08 AltLd O/S

Fantastic - easily in my top ten days out climbing. Brilliant sunny weather and no-one else on the stack.Crux pitch is intimidating but didn't feel too hard for 5b. We got back down in three abseils - last went straight from top of crux pitch to ground with double 60m ropes.

with Ken and Hannah
Ken Applegate 05/May/08 AltLd
with Hannah Evans, Andy Barker
jonka ?/Apr/08 AltLd
with degs
decs 13/Feb/08 AltLd

Not bad for a cheeky raid in February

with Sam, Konrad, Gaz and Becky
Hidden 13/Feb/08 AltLd O/S
sgl 13/Feb/08 AltLd O/S

Led Crux, pretty special to do it on a warm, blue sky day in mid February

with Gaz, Duncan, Konnie, Becky
gaz.marshall ?/Feb/08 AltLd O/S
with sam
csw ??/2008 2nd

guided ascent - following mick tighe - abbing down met tim emmett & friends making their way up to do the fastest descent (by parachute)

reg_measures ??/2008 AltLd O/S
with Dan and Neil
chapmand ??/2008 AltLd
Ben C ??/2008 -
Hidden 22/Sep/07 AltLd
Brian Wilderspin 08/Sep/07 AltLd

To clebrate my 50th and Daves 40th, brilliant!

Dave Rumney ?/Sep/07 AltLd
ecowaller 23/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Paula
Duncan Skelton 11/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

Fantastic route. One to remember.

with Kai Green
akhughes ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
elegant cheddar ?/Aug/07 2nd
with adam hughes
Hidden 24/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
Mother Simon 23/Jul/07 2nd O/S
with Rich Mayfield
Hidden 23/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
Rich Mayfield 23/Jul/07 AltLd
Graham Iles 02/Jun/07 AltLd

Climbed in gale force conditions in four pitches. Lead the second and fourth pitches. Memorable.

Hidden ?/Jun/07 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/07 AltLd
Hidden ??/2007 -
andy_pemberton ??/2007 AltLd

Done in a long weekend with an unlimited mileage hire car from Leicester. Didn't read the guide book and didn't bring a 3rd rope for the abseil! Fortunately another group turned up and we used theirs.

with Steve Sinfield
KRB 22/Oct/06 Lead rpt

Sunny day but preceded by a wet week. Rock soaking and thick with green slime for the whole of pitch 3 & 4. Top crack brilliant. 18 years since I first did it and despite conditions, still worth the trip.

with Chris & Martin
MazElden ?/Oct/06 AltLd
Dave Pritchard 30/Sep/06 AltLd O/S
with Burnsie
Hidden 30/Sep/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Sep/06 AltLd
GeckoGeek 14/Sep/06 Lead O/S

Dirty but amazing location.

with Arin
arin78 11/Sep/06 AltLd O/S

Route is really dirty, but it was still fun. Final pitch is the best!

with Mark
Hidden ?/Sep/06 AltLd
Hidden 30/Aug/06 2nd
Lawrence Eccles ?/Aug/06 AltLd O/S

Great climb. As others have said, it is littered with tat. Obviously there is tat on all the abseils; but there is also a lot of wooden wedges and rope dangling down the route and across the crux that would not be missed by me at least.

with A. Crook
sammoore ?/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
with Mark Reeves
Bern ??/2006 -
Dirk Wallis 17/Aug/05 2nd
with Grrr
cornishben ?/Aug/05 AltLd O/S
with Barnaby Carver and some scottish bloke
Hidden ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
kevg ?/Jul/05 AltLd O/S
with Craw, Mark
JEP ?/May/05 AltLd O/S
centurion05 ??/2005 AltLd O/S


with Dan Carroll
Hidden 18/Sep/04 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18/Sep/04 AltLd dnf
a_hein ?/Jul/04 AltLd O/S
with Oliver Metherell, Tom Spreyer
John Marsland 11/Jun/04 AltLd

Pulled on gear on crux.

with John Haslam
Mike Lee 08/Jun/04 AltLd O/S

Led last pitch only (70ft 4b) - VS corner to top out superb, completely breathtaking!! Seconded the other pitches. 460ft E1 5b 5 pitch

with Liz
climbtim 19/May/04 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2004 -
Hidden ??/2004 AltLd
Hidden 10/Sep/03 Lead
Hidden 28/Aug/03 AltLd O/S
Just Another Dave ?/Apr/03 AltLd O/S
with Jo Bertalot
Ab Wilson 20/Jun/02 2nd O/S

My first trad climb so I seconded all the pitches. Second pitch is amazing - I'll never forget the feeling of working my way out of the overhanging crack and onto the face. Can confirm that 60m ropes reach the ground from the bottom of the second abseil.

with John Dale, Ian Woodgate
Chad123 ?/May/00 AltLd O/S

Classic big loose sea stack, with some memorable pitches and lots of cute puffins

with Muppet
Hidden 30/Apr/00 AltLd
Hidden ??/2000 -
ColdAndWet ??/1999 -
with Paul Wilson, Guy Willatt
Hidden ??/1998 2nd O/S
phardman 20/Jul/97 -
kp64zl ?/Jun/97 AltLd
with Kirsten
Hidden ?/Jul/96 -
Pete Main 06/Jun/96 Lead

with G the joiner
Pete Main 06/Jun/96 Lead
with G the joiner
uphillnow 09/Sep/95 AltLd O/S

Heavy rain overnight. Drizzle on pitch 1, pitch 2 damp on first part but dried out by half way. Dave did final pitch

with Dave Richardson
craig h ?/Aug/95 AltLd
with Jim Mellor, Liam Corrigan
Hidden ??/1995 -
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Hidden 18/Sep/94 2nd
richparry ?/Aug/94 AltLd O/S
Duncan I ?/Jun/94 AltLd
with Al Willoner
paul_j_burgess ?/Aug/93 AltLd O/S

Alternate leads. MS led the 5b crack pitch. Would have been good to have had some bigger cams.

with Martin Slater
Yourlead 08/Jun/93 2nd

Bruce & Paul climbing behind - Rapped off together

with Graham Penny
steve taylor ?/Apr/93 AltLd O/S

Fantastic adventure - ferries, long walks, bivvies, seagulls, guano, tat and lots of fear.

with mark grover
Hidden ?/Jun/92 AltLd
Bob 01/Oct/91 AltLd O/S
with N. Walton, A. Newton
Hidden ??/1991 -
Steve Lenartowicz ??/1990 -
with Myles
BigHairyIan 20/Sep/89 Lead O/S

Hard work for HVS, which is what it was listed as at the time. Superb adventure, poor rock though. can abb straight off top of pitch two with twin 60m ropes

with Martin (from South America)
Hidden ?/Aug/89 AltLd O/S
craig h ?/Aug/89 AltLd
craig h ?/Jul/89 AltLd
with Luke Steer
Babika ?/May/89 2nd

Desperate struggle on the crux - even aiding it was too strenuous for me! Awesome route. Drunk beers on the summit.

with Tony Monnery, Darren McAulay
rogerskews 02/Jun/88 AltLd O/S

Great adventure with help from Stevie (ferryboat) and Albert (taxi on Hoy). Take your own tat for the abseils !

with Bryn Roberts
KRB 29/May/88 AltLd O/S

Did for my Stag weekend. Excellent weather, good climb, good weekend.

with Mike Bridges
mike bridges 29/May/88 AltLd O/S

Done on a long weekend for Kev`s Stag doo!we took photos of the "old man" from the ferry to Stromness,camped at Rackwick,(it never went dark)then climbed the next day.I led pitches 1,(3&4),Kev did 2&5.P.U and Ned climbed also,but as far as I can remember we all followed Kev up pitch 2! ha ha. Headstands on the top,(as you do)photos of each other and the puffins then a fantastic abseil down,(we utilized an in situ fixed rope with the outer sheath missing in places!)Great weekend,must go back!

RichardMc 13/Sep/87 AltLd
with Jon Clifford-Smith
neil3965 ?/Jul/86 Lead
with Pip Gee, Russ Leaper
William Robertson ??/1986 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
BobDuncan ?/Oct/85 Solo O/S

Backroped 2nd & final pitches. Scary stepping off the stance at the bottom of pitch 2 to jumar back up, swinging way out... overall a totally brilliant experience.

MikeYouCanClimb 28/Jul/85 AltLd
with Adam
Nigel Bond 15/Jun/82 AltLd
with Steve, Charlie Leverton
dtalbot ?/Apr/81 AltLd
TonyF ?/Jul/80 AltLd O/S
with Martin Lancaster
pneame ?/May/75 2nd
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High E2
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High HVS
Votes cast 79
High 5c
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High 5a
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Votes cast 17
Votes cast 77
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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