Orkney Islands > (Old Man of) Hoy >
 
East Face Route (Original Route)*** E1 5b

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[john on the last pitch, 2 kb]130m, 5 pitches. The original line up the stack. Takes the landward face and is essentially a crack climb therefore large cams and hexentrics are useful as are 60m ropes for the descent.
Rustie Baillie, Christian Bonington and Dr Tom Patey 18/Jul/1966

Ticklists: Hard Rock, Top 25 UKC Wishlist Rock Climbs, Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, Ultimate Scottish Rock, Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes, MIA logbook must haves!, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Summer Trip 2014, Trad on every UK island, Ultimate E1 ticklist, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist.

Photo: john on the last pitch © mikeleahy
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 315 logbooks, and on 336 wishlists.

http://www.glenngordon.co.uk/the-old-man-of-hoy/ Well done Mr. Duffy. It was the route that you had set your heart on and you climbed it well. Yes!
glenngordon - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/14 with iain thomson, ray duffy

Iain2754 - 2nd - 13/Sep/14 with Ray Duff, Glen Gorden

davebrox - AltLd - 10/Sep/14 with Ben Wallace, Vanders

Absolutely awesome experience. 8 hours base to base. Spent an hour on the top in beautiful weather waiting for 2 other parties. Led P2 and top pitch as Paul let me take all the glory; Thanks mate! Really sandy on P2 but managed it without pulling on anything. Incredible exposure and none of the pictures prepares you for how deep the chimney is. Thought the crux was the move after the pull onto the face. Paul took direct hit from a chick on P3, could still smell it all the way home.
erictant - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/14 with Paul

Incredible experience - not just the climb (which is epic in its own right) but the whole island is remote, beautiful and unforgettable. One of my best days of trad climbing ever! Around 6 1/2 hours bottom to bottom as we were the third group on it that day and were climbing as a trio. Lead pitches 2, 3 & 5. Drank beer and scotch on the top and danced naked... of course.
madasten - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/14 with Nicola, Anna, Miquel, Gaz

First off! This is no way a 3* route! ..... 10* is more appropriate. The adventure starts as soon as you get in the car. Everything from the go is a proper climbing experience ! For me this is the perfect climbing experience and the Old Man certainly has all the ingredients! If your lucky enough to go to Hoy make sure you stay until you have climbed the Original route. And I'll guarantee you won't be disappointed. If you are then maybe you should take up Green Bowls! The second pitch alone is worth the trip. EXELLENT Thanx for this one Sir C.B
gazfellows - Lead - 15/Aug/14 with Nic

4 day mission from Belfast. Did in 6 pitches,got confused on P3. Led P2, 3 and 5. P2 was interesting! Got surprised by a fulmar on P5, flinched and fell past the belay onto ancient gear! tweaked ankle and bruised arse. Great route. 5 hour round trip base on route.
RKernan - AltLd - 31/Jul/14 with Conor Gilmour

Led P1,3&5. Fantastic weather. Only had a tee shirt so happy everything went as planned.
Robb Bert - AltLd - 25/Jul/14

P 1, 3, 5. Amazing climb in amazing weather. Fulmar chicks tried to chunder on us, almost got taken out by a dead bird on 4th pitch.
Ross.Cooper - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/14 with Patrick Hill

Lead pitches 2 and 4. Pitch 2 was spectacular but very sandy.
Patrick Hill - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/14 with Ross Cooper

greglad - Jul/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/14

Lovely day. Led P2,4&5. Rock dry, and not too sandy despite rain the day before. Crux felt like old school Whillans and Brown HVS, hard bit quite short lived then wonderful cruise to the belay. Jon got destroyed by 2 fulmars on the fulmar crux of pitch 3. Pitch 4 was much more obvious once I was on it. Pitch 5 was awesome. Great views from the top, but apparently missed a pod of killer whales passing moments before! Razorbills and puffins on top. Abseil down to an intermediate belay on pitch 4, then to the top of P2 on 60m ropes. Then the most exposed abseil ever down to the ground! Wine on the beach at Rackwick bay to top off a great day.
Cardi - AltLd O/S - 24/Jun/14 with Jon W

An amazing climb in an amazing place, Even worth doing just for the journey.Great to get so close to the fulmars and puffins.. haha Pefect gear would be single rack wires couple small cams then 2 x f3, 2 xf3.5, 1 xf4, 1,camalot4 & 1xf5. oh and lots of slings and long draws. Would be good to take a knife and new rope to replace the bundles of rotten tat. Next time!
phil64 - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/14 with matt dean

SMc - AltLd O/S - 07/Jun/14 with Luke, Ged

mshorter - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/14 with steely, dunc

With two of the best, thanks to Mike for tackling the tough stuff. Sandy, rainy, birdy and great. Although I seem to have an uncontrollable fear of fulmars! A good achievement and a proper mini adventure.
sparkass - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/14 with Mike Shorter and Iain Steele

Magic day out in the wind rain and fulmar vomit. Thanks to Duncan and mike for dragging me up it!
steely - 2nd - 04/Jun/14 with Michael shorter, duncan campbell

we finally made the pilgrimage and was not disappointed. an absolutely stunning, mind blowing, gnarly climb which I have ever done! started at 6:36pm and topped out at 10:39pm. i could have made sandcastles on all the holds on crux pitch. final abseil was in the dark! If you need a bus/taxi from moaness to rackwick as missed the one advertised phone: 01856791263. he will fit your needs and pick you up within 2 mins notice.
peter.ravenscroft27 - AltLd O/S - 29/May/14 with Jack Godwin

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 26/May/14

cobweb - AltLd - 25/May/14 with Allan Moore, euan naismith

Very atmospheric and a big adventure. The in situ rope between the 1st and 2nd stance is worn to a thread, so take 60m ropes to get straight to the deck from the top of pitch two, or a third 50 to tie between the two belays. Lots of Dubious tat on all the belays. From the bottom of the final corner pitch we made two big abseils which worked a treat. Only one fulmar was on target!
whispering nic - Lead O/S - 20/May/14 with Gerard

led pitches 2 & 5. awesome sunny day, got the fulmar experience
Simon Allcock - AltLd O/S - 2014 with Wilki

Hidden - 2014

Hidden - 2014

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Sep/13

Exceptionally good trip. All the ingredients of why you start climbing in the first place! Cunning line, traverses, historical debris, sandy jamming, wild exposure and a good old fashioned battle up pitch 2 that you won't forget! Thanks to Albert and Fay on Hoy for hospitality and transport. We got the ferry back in time and walked into the Orkney Blues festival at Stromness saturday night! Traditional celebrations ensued!
GazzerM49 - AltLd - 21/Sep/13 with Ronnie Wriggs

P2, 4 & 5. Great to do it.
Ri - AltLd - 13/Sep/13

cat22 - 2nd - 08/Sep/13 with Mike

Fragmod - Lead - 26/Aug/13

Brown - AltLd - 26/Aug/13 with Andy R

Lead pitch 3 & 4, fell seconding pitch 2
pbuggy91 - AltLd dog - 25/Aug/13

Very cool route, led pitch 2. Belays need tidying up a bit and the ab rope for p2 is knackered and probably unnecessary.
James Oakes - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/13 with Peter Bugryniec, Hamish Legge, Bart Harris, Gareth Hooson

I lead the first and last pitches. The second pitch was hard and sketchy, the last pitch was amazing! Couldn't find the book on top which was a shame.
hlegge - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/13 with Peter Bugryniec, James Oakes

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Aug/13

so after 5 washes the fulmar vomit is just about leaving my trousers. epic climb. finished last pitch and all abseils in the dark with one head torch in a bit of a maelstrom. climbed some vertical protectionless sand on pitch 4 courtessy of the glatter guide description. Yes I know it's my own fault for bringing it etc. Apologies for the probably now in situ rope situation from pitch 2 to the coll. amazing climb now it's finished. Update. thanks to AL for removing ropes from P2. if anyone manages to bring them back to the mainland and let us know that would be grand.
danimal88 - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/13 with charlie

pretty straight forward, crux sandy and bold. Got ropes stuck on ab from top of P2. Airy pruisik back up next morning.
Craig Holden - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/13 with Robbie

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/13

tomosb - AltLd - 08/Aug/13 with Darren Thompson

Adventure! Fulmars in place still, only a couple though.
Kevster - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/13 with Tony Johnson

Led first pitch, Kev then led the crux, Tony led the third pitch before Kev led through to the top
Gavdee1 - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/13 with Tony Johnson, Kev

Very Sandy
tonevert - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/13 with Gavin, Kevin Faux

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Aug/13

I led pitch 1,3 and 5 all clean. Fell on the crux on second on pitch 2 though. What a glorious route!
Fiona McFarlane - AltLd - Aug/13 with Sarah Bayley

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/13

Gordon Lacey - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/13

Great day out!
AndyL - AltLd - Jul/13 with Antony

A great climbing adventure just a shame that the actual climbing is so poor. The crux pitch was just so sandy, and 3 and 4 scrappy and dirty. The top pitch is probably the best of the lot.
cuthill76 - Lead - 29/Jun/13

Got it ticked, but the climbing is poor!!
scotclimb - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/13

Second all climb, Except P5
afcervantesluna - 2nd O/S - 19/Jun/13

A great route, not for any of the pitches but the situation as a whole! We set of from the base at 9 and reached the ground again at 2. I lead pitch 1 and 3, Olli pitch 2 (very sandy) and Liam pitch 4. Pitch 3 I got covered in fulmar vomit which managed to cover all the clothes i was wearing despite wearing a full set of disposable waterproofs on top (looking like I was about to go caving, not climbing!).
Rachel Slater - AltLd O/S - 16/Jun/13 with Liam Brown, Olli Crudge

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Jun/13

3 day mission from york. Lead second pitch, avoided fulmar's vom until final abseil. Worrying stood on top knowing that you have to abseil past all the birds again. Liam did excellent job leading the abbs, fixed rope from top of second pitch to the ground definitely helped pull us across.
Olli-C - AltLd O/S - 16/Jun/13 with Liam, Rachel Slater

Great adventure
HansStuttgart - AltLd - Jun/13

Wow. Fulmar puke could not detract from this climb. Pitch 2 sandy and exposed.
Dan Vaj - 2nd β - 26/May/13 with James Machaffie

Led P1,P3 and P4. Fucking cool climb. Wind was so strong our ropes blew out fully horizontal on the last abseil.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 22/May/13 with George Ullrich

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/May/13

Hidden - 2013

led P3&5, kudos to Jase for P2 and 4. bit green on the upper pitches 3&4 quite a bit of rain but still not too bad. no fulmars, no midges, awesome route. Aside from the daylight hours it seems like a good time of year to head. Stayed in the bothy for three nights. WARNING there is no beer on the island... not within walking distance anyway.
NeilOMalley - AltLd O/S - 27/Sep/12 with icklejason

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Sep/12

led pitches 1, 3 &4. not sure how i got landed with the scrappy ones (with no gear). epic voyage, set off from belper 21:00 sunday, topped out in the dark 20:15 monday after no rest or sleep. exciting abseil into a pitch black abyss in the rain. scramble out up the grass far more scary than the route. no fulmars to be seen, but crux pitch was like being on the beach, god knows how dave led it. its worth all the effort just for P5, truly awsome position when the stack splits in 2, and you can see right through it.
Milne - AltLd O/S - 10/Sep/12 with jeff, dave saxby

Led pitches 1, 3 and 5, Dave P led 2 and 4. All clean onsights - 2nd pitch crux crack damp and sandy. Top pitch awesome, down via two abseils (incl one 60m free hanging). An uber-classic.
DP1977 - AltLd O/S - 06/Sep/12 with David Potter

What can I say. A fantastic route only slightly spoilt by the fact that I had to second it all due to broken ribs. I WILL be back to lead it!
timjones - 2nd - 02/Sep/12 with Neil McLean

The pilgrimage now complete. So many superlatives used already about the climb that I can't really add to what has been said, but I will try. This is more than just a 135m sea stack. It is a climbers pilgrimage, a journey beginning at your home and ending on a ferry as you watch it slide into the distance. To me this was one of the summits that inspired me as child to want to start climbing, so to stand on that almost hollowed summit was quite something else. It did not matter that it was sandy in places or that parts of the route are little more than scrambling. Standing on the top with a good friend waving at the walkers on the head land was magic. I just felt sorry for the seal for dropping a rope on his head. A cracking few days.
A Crook - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/12

A tremendous journey. Synergy - remote, committing, historic, scenic, adventurous, wildlife, good company, great characters on the way etc. The climbing is good, steep and exposed in places with a pitch from the gods to finish. I like interesting. I like celebrating with a bottle of malt.
NeilGriffiths - AltLd - 28/Aug/12 with Adam

Lead the 2nd pitch and 4th. Simply ace but sandy. We were both sicked on...
James Oswald - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/12 with Colin Angus

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/12

Led P1, 3 & 5. A few in situ fulmars on P3, but otherwise a brilliant experience. Pitches 2 and 5 are both excellent.
victim of mathematics - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/12 with James Oswald

M
petekeron - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/12 with Dickon Morris

Dickon151 - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/12 with Peter Keron

Tim M - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/12 with Steve W, Emma

climbergg - AltLd - 07/Aug/12 with cheesesarnie

Jevans - AltLd O/S - Aug/12

2nd time. Made even better by the pipes from the headland and a wee ceilidh on top!
MonkeyDawson - Lead - 28/Jul/12 with Zoe

Hidden - AltLd - 14/Jul/12

MonkeyDawson - AltLd - 14/Jul/12

Sandy wide crack: cracking. Did with mediumish size cams, there's 'plenty' of tat on route for the clipping. was windy enough to have probably abbed on 50m ropes! Last pitch is 4 star!
Euan Strachan - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/12 with Graham Dawson

Mark P1,P3 and P5. I took P2 and P4. Epic day, no idea how long it took because we were fortunate enough to meet some other climbers at the base and needed to wait our turn (weather was nice enough I didn't even check my watch). Sandy as anything on all the holds, the crux felt 5b but the hardest 5b I've ever done because of the conditions. I was really chuffed to get up and just as chuffed to get down. I also nailed the Geocache on the top :-)
puppythedog - AltLd β - 05/Jun/12 with Mark A Hoy

Lead pitches 1, 3, and 5 but fell at the crux. Way out adventure. I found talking to the birds meant they didn't puke on me, or was it that I was the last to pass and they had run out of ammo. The abseil from the top of pitch 2 to the ground is the most out landish of my life. Such a relief to touch down safely. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IES0QA0vupI
Mark Collins - AltLd dog - 05/Jun/12 with puppythedog

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Jun/12

Led pitches 1,3 and 5. Struggled seconding up 5b pitch and fell trying to do move round second overhang and had to rest: thought it was nails hard. Also very sandy.Have waited a long time to get this big tick.Climbed in 3 hours 35 mimutes.3 abseils down with 60m ropes.Got vomited on by several of those little bastards!
Andrew Sloan - AltLd dog - 29/May/12 with Martin Haworth

Fantastic route. Quite an expedition.
Martin Haworth - AltLd O/S - 29/May/12 with Andy

Tim lead pitches 1 and 2, Rich pitch 4, and I climbed 3 and 5. Great route, massive move out of the crack, even seconding.
iforwms - AltLd O/S - 07/May/12 with Rich Harris, Tim

Great adventure! Led first and second pitches. Take big cams for the sandy, steep and excellent pitch 2, and attach a rope between 1st and 2nd belays for the descent or you will be left dangling in space. Last man down detaches the rope and gets pulled in by partners! Some of the in-situ ropes are shredded, and a bit of a nuisance as our ropes got tangled with them. Also had to reclimb part of pitch 3 to free rope.
TimPerkin - AltLd O/S - 07/May/12 with Ifor Williams, Richard Harris

iforwms - 2nd dnf - 04/May/12 with Rich Harris, Tim

Fantastic experience and wonderful weather, we were so lucky. Some notes - the rope from the top of P2 to P1 belay is now through to the core, best to ab straight from top of P2 with 60m ropes. The belays at the top of P4 and P3 are rusty pegs and bolts, we put new tat on P4 belay and maillons on both these belays. We and others have also left backup wires at these belays, not a great solution. At some point these belays are going to need properly re-equipping. P4 and P4 abs have the rope running over ledges and even with a euro death knot it can still jam (Jim had to go back up to free ours on P3).
Paul Evans - AltLd O/S - 29/Apr/12

Hidden - 2012

JonG - 2012

Narked4fun - Lead - 2012 with George Wright, Keith Bell

Hidden - AltLd - 10/Sep/11

stephen ashworth - 2nd - 10/Sep/11 with john frost, martin clarke, floss_81

What a Brilliant climb, lead the last 4 pitches. The last 2 pitches were a bit damp because it started to rain. If your thinking about having a go at climbing it don't be put off by the 5b crux move its not that bad. Enjoy.
Frostie - AltLd O/S - 09/Sep/11 with Floss, Martin Clarke, Steve Ashworth

What an adventure a little slippery and damp from pitch 3. Thanks to john and the team for an unforgettable trip.
martin clarke - AltLd - 09/Sep/11 with chris floss_81, john frost, steve ashworth

Sandy stuff on first two pitches. Some lower offs/belays looking a bit rusty but held ok for us! In situ rope for 2nd last abseil in good condition. We had to leave our twin ropes on the last abseil due to force 9 gale whipping them into spaghetti.
Laura Hamlet - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/11 with Owen Raybould, Tim Hamlet

Tim Hamlet - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/11 with Laura Mckenna

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Aug/11

Great experience. It would be good to take a knife up to cut some of the tat away from the fixed belays. Some of the belay gear is in good condition but some is very old and rotten. It would be good to remove the old stuff as it gets in the way, especially at the top of pitch two. There is a fixed line in place from the top of pitch one to the top of pitch two which is in good nick at present.
nige - AltLd - 09/Aug/11 with ewan mccallum, mark hounslea

Left Guernsey on the Friday and after 3 ferries and driving the entire length of Britain we climbed the route on the Sunday. Check out this video of the road trip http://vimeo.com/31877132
Bargate_Champ - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/11 with crabby2009, iamchris

Drove approx 800miles from Guernsey, on the first metre of climbing Nathan got sand in his eye and we had to bail due to the wind, It was him that planned it all so quite comical looking back at it. We climbed it the next day,It was very windy which made for a hard climb but it was somehow sheltered on the top, the crux pitch felt like E2+ plus to me and I was on a top rope!
Tophe - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/11 with Disco Nath, Steve Le F

Awesome - 25th Birthday challenge for the 25th Anniversary of the Guernsey Mountaineering Club! Took a bit longer than planned but went pretty smoothly. Placed a geocache at the top, as we could't find the ascent book.
crabby2009 - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/11 with Steve Le Feuvre, Chris Smith

chrism225 - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/11 with jonny

Epic!! Left Sheffield at 0300hrs and summitted at 2330hrs. Abbed off in the dark with one headtorch (mine) between four of us. Couldn't resist the lure when we arrived on hoy at 1800hrs and started climbing at 1930hrs. Spent about an hour and a half on the first ledge waiting for the pair with us to get through the crux pitch. Good climbing throughout, although the second pitch was pretty slippery (Although not as bad as Jonny made it sound!!) but still quality.
M_W_Court - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/11 with Stuart Cartwright, Jonny Rae

Epic. Spent a while cleaning / drying holds on the crux pitch which was like climbing on wet ball bearings - definitely didn't want to skid off this thing! Awesome climbing in a brilliant situation, the most exciting bit was dodging the fulmars!
JRae - AltLd - 21/Jul/11 with C Middleton

Lead pitches 1 and 3.
Nic DW - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/11 with rob askew

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Jul/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/11

Alex took the crux which had interesting out-there moves past the 2nd roof (hard with a bag on) but a great route and some incredulous situations (especially the pile of loose plates on top! and the sand..) 60m ab from the top of p2 crux overhangs will get you to the floor as we found out..
simon_D - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/11 with Alex

The hardest bit was sorting the logistics a couple of days beforehand... Left Solihull 5.45am, Phil drove all the way, 6.30pm ferry to St Margaret's Bay, fly camped at Yesnaby, did four routes there, afternoon ferry from Houton to Hoy, camped outside the bothy (fantastic place). Didn't manage an early start so only started climbing at 1pm but that was ok as no one else on the route, in fact didn't see any other climbers all weekend. No bird problems either - a few fulmars sitting on ledges off to the side but not nesting yet. Helen led P1 (nice warm up) and P4 (going off route up an offwidth to start with), Phil led P2 crux, I led P3 (bit dirty) and P5 (great bridging on clean rock all the way, best pitch). Topped out at 7pm and took in the view and atmosphere. Perfect blue sky and hardly any wind all day - what more could we have wished for? Four abs back down, including final 60m free handing ab, took two and a half hours but at least the ropes pulled through fine. Back down at 10pm, just enough light to walk back up onto the headland, then walked back in the dark. Late dinner in the bothy, then up at 5.30am to get the 7.10am ferry. Looked at a couple of prehistoric monuments before getting the Pentland ferry at noon. Back in Solihull at 1.30am, home for 2am, work next day. Good route, great experience. Thanks to Phil for the vision! (Also thanks to William & Kate for the extra day off)
Misha - AltLd O/S - 01/May/11 with Helen, Phil

Wow, what an experience, the drive, the ferries, Yesnaby, Rackwick, the company and finally the climb. Everything I had hoped for and worth every penny (lots) every minute (4 days) and every mile (1300). Helen P1, me P2 crux - no soft touch, required plenty of thinking about, Misha P3 and P5 (best pitch of VS I have done anywhere. Had to reclimb 1/2 a pitch on the third ab after rope lassoed a gargoyle way off line. The few birds were far more interested in bonking than us! Back to the top of headland in the dark - so much for summer rock finishing early. Helen had been warned to take a headtorch climbing with us!
philhilo - AltLd O/S - 01/May/11 with Helen E, misha

Hidden - AltLd - 29/Apr/11

What an incredible route! Everything I had hoped for. Found the second roof an extremely taxing (and sandy) offwidth problem. Top pitch was just sensational.
jonny taylor - AltLd O/S - 26/Apr/11 with Andy B

ablackett - AltLd O/S - 26/Apr/11 with Jonny

Classic! Amazing effort from the other half...As she had hung up her climbing boots! Good weather.
beds74 - Lead - 25/Apr/11 with Rebecca Edwards

pete87abs - AltLd O/S - 24/Apr/11 with marcel, rob

steveleahy - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/11 with Neil Davies

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Apr/11

walts4 - 2011

adie84 - 2011

adie84 - 2011

newtonmore - AltLd - 2011

Glenn Sutcliffe - 2011

Johnny Baker - 2011

Hidden - 2011

I'm speechless for once! Perhaps some really nice person with a sharp knife could clean up the hoards of tat off this thing, its litter in an amazing place. If I go again it will be cleaned! Especially the tat off the crux :(
sebrider - AltLd O/S - 18/Sep/10 with Chris wilson

We had the stack to ourselves and didn't even have to share it with any fulmars. The travel, the location, the iconic route all combine to make this a really special trip.
Chris wilson - AltLd O/S - 18/Sep/10 with Seb

andyinglis - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/10 with Neil Adams

Neil Adams - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/10 with Andy Inglis

Took all day climbing as a three with strong winds - one of the most adventurous days climbing I've ever had! Then back to the brilliant bothy by the beach - I'll remember this one for a while :)
paulnc - AltLd - 05/Sep/10 with Rob Doman, Pete Cole

Interesting day, a bit windy, crux pitch holds were a bit damp and sandy so ended up taking a wee fall. Straightforward after that! Great climbing and exciting abseil, glad to get ropes back ok.
Captain Solo - AltLd - 04/Sep/10 with Mike

I got the 1st, 3rd and 5th pitches. Ewan took a 10 metre whipper from the crux, he was held by a bit of tat around a wooden wedge. Easily the finest climbing adventure I've ever had.
mikemartin - AltLd - 04/Sep/10

Hidden - AltLd RP - Sep/10

Hidden - Lead - 30/Aug/10

Absolutely amazing! Lead 2nd and 4th pitch! 2nd pitch was an absolute belter!
Will_Maxwell - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/10 with Rafael Pena

incredible! will not forget 2nd pitch
tom106 - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/10 with john tanner

Tom Led: 2 and 4 I Led: 1, 3 and 5 Pitch 2: What a crux! Pitch 5: Stunning moves and topping out is awesome
John Tanner - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/10 with Tom Maidwell

Tom took p2. Manage to end up in esoteric finish to p3 that finish in a heart-in-mouth traverse (i.e. went left up the chimney)
funsized - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/10 with Tom Green

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Aug/10

Graham Westbrook - AltLd - Aug/10

Theeni - AltLd - Aug/10

Started at 5pm after a long march from the ferry. Toughest e1 I've ever done. A seagull was sick in max's mouth. Awesome.
eddy-on-the-rocks - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/10 with max

cox - Lead rpt - 01/Jul/10

With Rich Long, Mark Fairhurst.
Si Carter - Lead - 22/Jun/10

French Erick - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/10 with Dave Kerr

richardlong78 - AltLd - 05/Jun/10 with Mark Fairhurst, Simon Carter

Mark Fairhurst - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/10

Fantastic evenings climbing
John Roe - AltLd - 04/Jun/10 with Iain (Jocky) Marr

Hidden - 22/May/10

Hidden - 11/May/10

Hidden - 2010

richtea21 - AltLd - 2010 with S.Pelly

prcleary - 2010

It was still windy when we started the route at 1400 but sunny. After the crux pitch, it was very calm on the leeward side. The crux is definitely 5b; so sandy. The sunset at the top was icing on the cake. But the stuck abseil ropes were a bit of faff. Quite errie abseiling into pitch black. Fantastic bothy and magical beach. All add to the experience of climbing the Old Man. Will be back for my 40th.
Skinny Kin - AltLd O/S - 09/Sep/09 with Cliff Shasby

fantastic adventure! did during high winds, the tail end of a hurricane!, so couldn't stand on the top long. epic.
hawkins321 - Lead O/S - Sep/09 with rosie atkinson

ewen - AltLd - 11/Aug/09 with jeb

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/09

Leelogs - 2nd O/S - 25/Jul/09 with Chris

Thanks Dave, brilliant adventure. Damp on crux pitch which made it feel hard for 5b. Lifetime memories. Lead all apart from 1st pitch.
Mr Tickle - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/09 with davenev

Luke you've enabled me to get to some great places but this was the best. Simply awesome adventure cheers mate! :)
davenev - 15/Jul/09 with luke

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/09

westaway - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/09 with Imelda Neale

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/09

Hidden - AltLd - Jun/09

A super adventure on a perfect day - sunny and calm. We had camped at Rackwick Bothy the night before (unmissable - a superb spot). Started climbing at 9am. Summited at 1pm. I led pitches 1, 2 and 4 (Fulmar thwacker required on the latter pitch). Pulled on the sling at the crux roof. Waited 5 hours on top in the scorching sun for the other 4 parties to complete before abseling down. Retrieved two abandoned 60m ropes on the stunning final abseil (returned to owners the next day).
Steve Waters, Mynydd - AltLd - 29/May/09 with Mike Tempest and Dave Wilson

Brilliant.....nothing more to be said
Dave Mason - AltLd O/S - 29/May/09 with Adam Gill

Hidden - AltLd - 29/May/09

Hidden - Lead - 29/May/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/May/09

Lead all but crux pitch. Incredible weather, very lucky. 3+ Fulmer strikes but puffins friendly enough.
Joemanglerocks - AltLd - 22/May/09 with Bill O'Neill, Smiler Cuthbertson

too much to say here my 50th year...awesome adventure ,something i will remember for the rest of my life.last pitch was better than sex
colina - 2nd O/S - 21/May/09 with bob and smiler cuthbertson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/May/09

Lead all but the first pitch. A very memorable day indeed. Especially the lightning strike!
Smelly Fox - AltLd O/S - 20/May/09 with Scott Webster

led 1st & 3rd
sonaf - AltLd - 05/Oct/08 with Chopper

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Sep/08

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Aug/08

On the top on 50th birthday, perfect timing, shame to miss the boat to the pub !
babymoac - AltLd - 17/Aug/08 with Charles, graham d

cem - AltLd dog - 17/Aug/08 with Andy Buckley, Graham Dolman

Hidden - 2nd - Aug/08

Awesome Adventure!
Christian Beck - AltLd O/S - Aug/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/08

Got naked on the top ;-)
Ed Booth - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/08 with Tim Evans

i lead the crux
twright180 - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/08 with John McCune

With Vic Belshaw and John Sage...stunning
steveboote - AltLd - Jul/08

richiebongo - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/08

Fantastic climb. Led final pitch.
Jim Slater - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/08 with Mike Hale, Nick Carter

Hidden - AltLd - 04/Jun/08

Awesome climb. Worth doing just to climb the top pitch. 7 hours up and down. Best weather and views. We each lead climbed the top pitch and lowered back down thus letting us get down with 2 full abseils on 60m jobs.
thrutch - AltLd O/S - 25/May/08 with and Mel

A classic climb and location, last pitch is the best and most enjoyable, but it was all chocolate.We had the stack to ourselves,except for the Fulmars who struck with accuracy.
upontop - AltLd - 25/May/08 with Tim

Fantastic - easily in my top ten days out climbing. Brilliant sunny weather and no-one else on the stack.Crux pitch is intimidating but didn't feel too hard for 5b. We got back down in three abseils - last went straight from top of crux pitch to ground with double 60m ropes.
Andrew Barker - AltLd O/S - 05/May/08 with Ken and Hannah

Ken Applegate - AltLd - 05/May/08 with Hannah Evans, Andy Barker

jonka - AltLd - Apr/08 with degs

Not bad for a cheeky raid in February
decs - AltLd - 13/Feb/08 with Sam, Konrad, Gaz and Becky

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Feb/08

Led Crux, pretty special to do it on a warm, blue sky day in mid February
sgl - AltLd O/S - 13/Feb/08 with Gaz, Duncan, Konnie, Becky

gaz.marshall - AltLd O/S - Feb/08 with sam

guided ascent - following mick tighe - abbing down met tim emmett & friends making their way up to do the fastest descent (by parachute)
csw - 2nd - 2008

reg_measures - AltLd O/S - 2008 with Dan and Neil

chapmand - AltLd - 2008 with Pete Rhodes

Ben C - 2008

Hidden - AltLd - 22/Sep/07

To clebrate my 50th and Daves 40th, brilliant!
Brian Wilderspin - AltLd - 08/Sep/07 with Dave Rumney

Dave Rumney - AltLd - Sep/07 with Brian Wilderspin

ecowaller - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/07 with Paula

Fantastic route. One to remember.
Duncan Skelton - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/07 with Kai Green

akhughes - Lead O/S - Aug/07 with Emma Hughes

elegant cheddar - 2nd - Aug/07 with adam hughes

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/07

Mother Simon - 2nd O/S - 23/Jul/07 with Rich Mayfield

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/07

Rich Mayfield - AltLd - 23/Jul/07 with Mark Stevenson

Climbed in gale force conditions in four pitches. Lead the second and fourth pitches. Memorable.
Graham Iles - AltLd - 02/Jun/07 with Neil Cooper

Hidden - Lead - Jun/07

Hidden - AltLd - Jun/07

Hidden - 2007

Done in a long weekend with an unlimited mileage hire car from Leicester. Didn't read the guide book and didn't bring a 3rd rope for the abseil! Fortunately another group turned up and we used theirs.
andy_pemberton - AltLd - 2007 with Steve Sinfield

Sunny day but preceded by a wet week. Rock soaking and thick with green slime for the whole of pitch 3 & 4. Top crack brilliant. 18 years since I first did it and despite conditions, still worth the trip.
KRB - Lead rpt - 22/Oct/06 with Chris & Martin

Hidden - AltLd - Oct/06

Dave Pritchard - AltLd O/S - 30/Sep/06 with Burnsie

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Sep/06

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Sep/06

Dirty but amazing location.
GeckoGeek - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/06 with Arin

Route is really dirty, but it was still fun. Final pitch is the best!
arin78 - AltLd O/S - 11/Sep/06 with Mark

Hidden - AltLd - Sep/06

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Aug/06

Great climb. As others have said, it is littered with tat. Obviously there is tat on all the abseils; but there is also a lot of wooden wedges and rope dangling down the route and across the crux that would not be missed by me at least.
Lawrence Eccles - AltLd O/S - Aug/06 with A. Crook

sammoore - AltLd O/S - Jul/06 with Mark Reeves

Bern - 2006

Dirk Wallis - 2nd - 17/Aug/05 with Grrr

cornishben - AltLd O/S - Aug/05 with Barnaby Carver and some scottish bloke

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/05

kevg - AltLd O/S - Jul/05 with Craw, Mark

JEP - AltLd O/S - May/05

awesome
centurion05 - AltLd O/S - 2005 with Dan Carroll

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Sep/04

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 18/Sep/04

Pulled on gear on crux.
John Marsland - AltLd - 11/Jun/04 with John Haslam

Led last pitch only (70ft 4b) - VS corner to top out superbe, completely breathtaking!! 460ft E1 5b 5 pitch
Mike Lee - AltLd dog - 08/Jun/04 with Liz

climbtim - AltLd O/S - 19/May/04

Hidden - 2004

Hidden - Lead - 10/Sep/03

Just Another Dave - AltLd O/S - Apr/03 with Jo Bertalot

My first trad climb so I seconded all the pitches. Second pitch is amazing - I'll never forget the feeling of working my way out of the overhanging crack and onto the face. Can confirm that 60m ropes reach the ground from the bottom of the second abseil.
Ab Wilson - 2nd O/S - 20/Jun/02 with John Dale, Ian Woodgate

Classic big loose sea stack, with some memorable pitches and lots of cute puffins
Chad123 - AltLd O/S - May/00 with Muppet

Hidden - AltLd - 30/Apr/00

Hidden - 2000

ColdAndWet - 1999 with Paul Wilson, Guy Willatt

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 1998

phardman - 20/Jul/97

kp64zl - AltLd - Jun/97 with Kirsten

kp64zl - AltLd - Jun/97 with Kirsten


Pete Main - Lead - 06/Jun/96 with G the joiner

Pete Main - Lead - 06/Jun/96 with G the joiner

Heavy rain overnight. Drizzle on pitch 1, pitch 2 damp on first part but dried out by half way. Dave did final pitch
David Smith - AltLd O/S - 09/Sep/95 with Dave Richardson

craig h - AltLd - Aug/95 with Jim Mellor, Liam Corrigan

Hidden - 1995

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Hidden - 2nd - 18/Sep/94

richparry - AltLd O/S - Aug/94

Duncan I - AltLd - Jun/94 with Al Willoner

Alternate leads. MS led the 5b crack pitch. Would have been good to have had some bigger cams.
paul_j_burgess - AltLd O/S - Aug/93 with Martin Slater

Bruce & Paul climbing behind - Rapped off together
Yourlead - 2nd - 08/Jun/93 with Graham Penny

Fantastic adventure - ferries, long walks, bivvies, seagulls, guano, tat and lots of fear.
steve taylor - AltLd O/S - Apr/93 with mark grover

Hidden - AltLd - Jun/92

Bob - AltLd O/S - 01/Oct/91 with N. Walton, A. Newton

Steve Lenartowicz - 1990 with Myles

Hard work for HVS, which is what it was listed as at the time. Superb adventure, poor rock though. can abb straight off top of pitch two with twin 60m ropes
BigHairyIan - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/89 with Martin (from South America)

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/89

craig h - AltLd - Aug/89 with Duncan Martin

craig h - AltLd - Jul/89 with Luke Steer

Desperate struggle on the crux - even aiding it was too strenuous for me! Awesome route. Drunk beers on the summit.
Babika - 2nd - May/89 with Tony Monnery, Darren McAulay

Great adventure with help from Stevie (ferryboat) and Albert (taxi on Hoy). Take your own tat for the abseils !
rogerskews - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/88 with Bryn Roberts

Did for my Stag weekend. Excellent weather, good climb, good weekend.
KRB - AltLd O/S - 29/May/88 with Mike Bridges

Done on a long weekend for Kev`s Stag doo!we took photos of the "old man" from the ferry to Stromness,camped at Rackwick,(it never went dark)then climbed the next day.I led pitches 1,(3&4),Kev did 2&5.P.U and Ned climbed also,but as far as I can remember we all followed Kev up pitch 2! ha ha. Headstands on the top,(as you do)photos of each other and the puffins then a fantastic abseil down,(we utilized an in situ fixed rope with the outer sheath missing in places!)Great weekend,must go back!
mike bridges - AltLd O/S - 29/May/88 with Kevin Bridges

RichardMc - AltLd - 13/Sep/87 with Jon Clifford-Smith

neil3965 - Lead - Jul/86 with Pip Gee, Russ Leaper

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1986 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

MikeYouCanClimb - AltLd - 28/Jul/85 with Adam

Nigel Bond - AltLd - 15/Jun/82 with Steve, Charlie Leverton

dtalbot - AltLd - Apr/81

pneame - 2nd - May/75

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Voting
Total votes cast 141
hard E20 of 68
E20 of 68
easy E21 of 68
hard E17 of 68
E153 of 68
easy E16 of 68
hard HVS1 of 68
HVS0 of 68
easy HVS0 of 68
hard 5c0 of 5
5c0 of 5
easy 5c0 of 5
hard 5b0 of 5
5b3 of 5
easy 5b2 of 5
hard 5a0 of 5
5a0 of 5
easy 5a0 of 5
3 Stars64 of 68
2 Stars4 of 68
1 Star0 of 68
0 Stars0 of 68
Bag of .....0 of 68
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Style of ascent

Lead35 of 315 (11.1%)
Followed25 of 315 (7.9%)
Alt Leads193 of 315 (61.3%)
Unknown62 of 315 (19.7%)

'Climbed'162 of 315 (51.4%)
clean O/S140 of 315 (44.4%)
clean β2 of 315 (0.6%)
clean rpt3 of 315 (1.0%)
clean RP1 of 315 (0.3%)
dogged5 of 315 (1.6%)
dnf2 of 315 (0.6%)