Rockfax Description
A great route with a devious but logical line. Easier (E1 5b?) for the tall. Climb the blunt arete on side-pulls to a small ledge below the steep slab. Make an awkward traverse out right to the arete then reach the horizontal break above with difficulty before traversing back left to the short finishing crack. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown 1955

Ticklists: Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Stanage E1 Challenge (1989 Guide), Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day, Joe Brown's Three-Star Grit-List.

gavinpeach 05/Jun Lead dnf

Lowered off after reaching the arete. Way too windy and hard enough to keep balance with holds never mind without. I was absolutely sure that i'd be blown off rather than do the moves. Abded down to retrieve gear. Will be back the traverse seemed like it was probably going to be the crux so at least I got that done. Will be back when it's not so windy.

with Hellen
Nick1812P 03/Jun Lead O/S
drysori 16/May Lead
with Everyone!
Brannock 16/May 2nd
Canyak ??/2015 -
DubyaJamesDubya ??/2015 -
Hardcore Pat 04/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Chris Vanderz
robblowen 31/Aug/14 2nd β
with Jonny
ashtond6 31/Aug/14 Lead rpt
deacondeacon 13/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Tried the direct but backed off onto this. I've probably seconded this in the past but not sure. Not as good as 'The Count'.

manwithacam 21/Jun/14 2nd

started off leading this. Starting moves committing and scary. Then I came off on traverse move. Joris took over and lead route. Great route, each section is hard including getting feet up to reach top break, balancy. A classic.

with Joris
Joris.Roulleau 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
a13x 05/May/14 2nd O/S
Haydn Jones 28/Apr/14 Lead O/S


with neil jobling
the power 03/Mar/14 Lead dog

E1 5b? my arse

with Andy
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
simon1965 12/Nov/13 2nd
with James
Stig 12/Nov/13 Lead O/S

First grit lead for just over 2 years! Can see why it confuses the grade allocating committee.

clukins 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S
lisaboldini 22/Sep/13 2nd β

WOW this was a crazy climb. Start with a difficult boulder problem to get off the ground. Then do another powerful boulder problem to get to the arete. Reach (stay away if short) for the slopey shelf, and traverse across the slab with no feet. Two BOMBER hand jams while doing this. (I never wanted to leave those hand jams.) Complete the traverse with a lot of swearing anti-committal feelings, get the jug, and a smooth finish from there. One of those most interesting climbs, not ready for that lead but can't believe I got it clean seconding. Top of my abilities.

dr_botnik 10/Sep/13 2nd O/S
with Mackie
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?/May/13 Lead
with Benno Wagner
marcduhig 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Richard, Owen
AlexRenshaw 06/Oct/12 TR
with Tim Raffle, Mike Dawes
derekb 09/Sep/12 2nd dog

I will return !

with Leon
leon 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S

took a while to work out the crux, kept trying to stay to high. head was a little fried on the top traverse so rather than using lots of nice hand jams i traversed the break as one long sloper. found the start hard too (started up abacus by mistake)!!

with Derek
MikeLeeds 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with John McMahon
cobweb 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S

complex climb , lovely

with martyn hopson
jwpil 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Deacon
jshields 05/Aug/12 Lead
davewsargent 05/Aug/12 2nd
roberto18 28/Jul/12 Lead
with Tom Nickols
Hidden 22/May/12 2nd
Steve Waters, Mynydd 20/May/12 2nd

Magnificent and epic! The crux for me was the first rightwards traverse - I really struggled to get established at the foot of the arete (not helped by the rope from above becoming wedged around the nose of the flake). From there it was joyous. The top traverse seemed ok with the use the 2 slots in the wall above.

mtempest 20/May/12 Lead

Had one rest and mini fall on traverse. Lowered and then tried a slightly lower traverse line to the arete.

nigel pearson 20/May/12 Lead O/S

tough climb but great adventure

with Robin
cem 01/Apr/12 Lead dnf

Couldn't work out how to do the traverse to the arete & gave up

Hidden ??/2012 -
mark20 19/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Will Hunt 16/Oct/11 2nd dog


with Duncan MacNeil
Hidden 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Dave Foster 18/Sep/11 2nd


with Si 2
Hidden 18/Sep/11 Lead RP
JRae 15/Sep/11 Lead
with T Anthistle, C Middleton
London Luke ?/Aug/11 Lead
kitkat78 02/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Steve C, Graham P
Jonathan Hall 24/Oct/10 Lead rpt

Felt E2 i though, one spill on the crux, great route mind.

disturbed_one51 24/Oct/10 2nd
with Wee man
Hidden 24/Oct/10 Lead rpt
Oliver Houston 24/Oct/10 2nd
Cake 24/Oct/10 Lead O/S

E1. 5c move is safe and there are lots of rests. One of my best climbs of the year though.

with Matt
Hidden 17/Oct/10 Lead
Cragrat Rich 17/Oct/10 Lead

Led ground up about five years after failing and then retreating from the traverse right. Went fine today! Stuck crucial jams at either end of a splits type manoever then styled it out to glory

Hidden 02/Oct/10 2nd O/S
chrishedgehog 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Brian Rodgers 05/Sep/10 Lead O/S

E2. It's quite a tricky move on the traverse.

with Ian Wyatt, Eddie Shaw
eduardo 05/Sep/10 2nd
with Brian R
masa-alpin 15/Aug/10 Lead dog

I first attempted direct, which was graded 5b in the old guidebook we had (but now 6a in the definitive guidebook and UKC!), but could not commit in a greasy condition in high temperature, then tried to climb down to do this route; a pebble I was holding to snapped and I fell off --- gutted. The rest was still somehow nerve-wrecking (and found a bit harder for the short), but went OK.

with Gordon
Diggler 24/Jul/10 2nd
Hidden 02/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 14/Feb/10 Lead O/S


with Rob
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
buxtoncoffeelover ??/2010 2nd
Hidden ?/Dec/09 -
Hidden 15/Nov/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Nov/09 2nd O/S
Boy ?/Nov/09 -
with Fiona Fullwood
Hidden 10/Oct/09 Lead O/S
RCrockford 19/Sep/09 2nd

Definitely not E1! Very physical sort of climb, top traverse is a bit desperate.

with Mark D
Diggler 19/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Feckin hard for E1

chris sm 13/Jun/09 2nd dog

I hate this route.

Hidden 13/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/Jun/09 Lead
Coel Hellier 24/May/09 Lead
williamsf1 02/May/09 Lead O/S

Solid E2, was my first E2 lead and it was scary but awesome

with rich buswell
quiffhanger ??/2009 Lead
lowersharpnose 25/Sep/08 Lead O/S

Tricky traverse.

with MarkWesterman
Hidden 25/Sep/08 2nd dog
Alex Mason 17/Sep/08 Lead O/S

Awesome classic

with Andy B, Hannah
Andrew Barker 17/Sep/08 2nd O/S
morganator 12/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with Greg Cunninghan
Hidden ?/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Nicos 15/Jul/08 Lead O/S
NickHobbs ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with MikeT
Ian Parnell ?/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Jon Winter
jamesturnbull ??/2008 Lead
Hidden 12/Oct/07 2nd O/S
Mattyk 08/Sep/07 2nd
Jimbo C 08/Sep/07 2nd dog
Hidden 10/Jul/07 Solo O/S
Hidden 10/Jun/07 -
Hidden ?/Jun/07 TR
tom.e 20/May/07 Lead O/S

E2 in the new stanage guide! ha!

with Pete
featuresforfeet 11/Mar/07 Lead dnf

Didn't have the head to move above the tiny gear I had in the crack so down climbed for another day. Seemed hard for HVS.

with Ian R
Hidden 04/Feb/07 Lead
Duncan I ??/2007 -
Joe Costello 21/Oct/06 Lead O/S
MeMeMe 22/Apr/06 Lead O/S

Quite a tricky one, almost fell off a couple of times!

with Nick
Jack Symmons ?/Feb/06 -
with Chris T
Pete Graham ??/2006 2nd
with Tom Everett
Hidden 13/Nov/05 Lead
Hidden 15/May/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Mar/05 Lead rpt
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
Smelly Fox ?/Oct/04 2nd
cem 01/Aug/04 Lead dnf
with Rod Strachan
Hidden ??/2004 Solo O/S
NeilGriffiths 27/Sep/03 -
with Simon Frost
Hidden ?/Feb/03 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2002 -
chris sm 19/May/01 2nd dog
with Dom Goodridge
Hidden 19/May/01 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/May/01 Lead O/S
ian caton ??/2001 Lead O/S
with simon
Hidden ??/2000 Lead dnf
Hidden 13/Jun/99 2nd
cem 25/Apr/98 2nd
Roget 26/Jan/97 Lead rpt
with jon
Hidden 20/Apr/96 Lead O/S
Phill Mitch ??/1996 Lead O/S
with kurt
nai ??/1995 Lead
Hidden ??/1993 Solo
Michael Hood 03/May/92 Lead
WB ??/1992 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby 20/Oct/91 Lead
Stoney Boy 28/Apr/91 2nd O/S
with Colin Hughes
NickJH ?/Jul/90 Lead
with I Smith
Roget ??/1989 2nd O/S
with jim
Hidden 29/Dec/88 Lead
goi.ashmore 05/Jun/88 Lead O/S
with Dave Forster
BRUCESTRAC ??/1988 -
with Chris Cracknell,Various
sadams ?/Sep/87 Lead
with Mark Bonham
charlesmfrench 04/Jul/87 2nd O/S
Rob Davies ?/May/87 Lead dnf
with Mick Moss
Hidden 12/Jun/86 -
Hidden ?/Apr/85 -
mark-abz 15/Nov/84 TR
Dave Musgrove 21/Jul/83 AltLd
with Kim Greenald
Hidden 24/May/81 Lead
Mark Kemball 12/Aug/79 Lead
with Paul Clark
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
BAdhoc, callumbtaylor, Sam McCarthy, khalidq, ralphio, mapperley samurai, Hidden, rurp, Hidden, Mowglee, fifth, Graham Booth, gavinpeach, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, stevorobs3, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Sam Marks, johnpr, Pete Nugent, Hidden, Dan Lane, Chris_barr, Chi Cheng, alimckay, AndyM-LVB, Hidden, Hidden, MikeLeeds, Hidden, tatz45, Hidden, Chris the Tall
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 40
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 42
Votes cast 38
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set