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Count's Buttress*** E1 5b

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[Count's Buttress, 3 kb]16m. A great route with a devious but logical line - like a tough Kelly's Overhang, though this one is harder for the short! Climb the blunt arete on side-pulls to a small ledge below the steep slab. Make an awkward traverse out right to the arete then reach the horizontal break above with difficulty before traversing back left to the short finishing crack. The finishing crack can be reached more directly from the start at E3 6a. Photo page 121. © ROCKFAX
FA. Joe Brown 1955

Ticklists: Stanage Routes Graded List, Stanage E1 Challenge (1989 Guide), Big Rons 100 extremes in a day, Joe Brown's Three-Star Grit-List.

Photo: Count's Buttress © ROCKFAX
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 125 logbooks, and on 31 wishlists.

started off leading this. Starting moves committing and scary. Then I came off on traverse move. Joris took over and lead route. Great route, each section is hard including getting feet up to reach top break, balancy. A classic.
manwithacam - 2nd - 21/Jun/14 with Joris

Joris.Roulleau - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/14 with Dan Metcalfe

a13x - 2nd O/S - 05/May/14 with Jordan Phethean

fantastic
Haydn Jones - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/14 with neil jobling

E1 5b? my arse
the power - Lead dog - 03/Mar/14 with Andy

simon1965 - 2nd - 12/Nov/13 with James

First grit lead for just over 2 years! Can see why it confuses the grade allocating committee.
Stig - Lead O/S - 12/Nov/13 with Simon1965

clukins - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/13

WOW this was a crazy climb. Start with a difficult boulder problem to get off the ground. Then do another powerful boulder problem to get to the arete. Reach (stay away if short) for the slopey shelf, and traverse across the slab with no feet. Two BOMBER hand jams while doing this. (I never wanted to leave those hand jams.) Complete the traverse with a lot of swearing anti-committal feelings, get the jug, and a smooth finish from there. One of those most interesting climbs, not ready for that lead but can't believe I got it clean seconding. Top of my abilities.
lisaboldini - 2nd β - 22/Sep/13

dr_botnik - 2nd O/S - 10/Sep/13 with Mackie

Hidden - Lead - May/13

marcduhig - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13 with Richard, Owen

AlexRenshaw - TR - 06/Oct/12 with Tim Raffle, Mike Dawes

Hidden - 2nd dog - 09/Sep/12

took a while to work out the crux, kept trying to stay to high. head was a little fried on the top traverse so rather than using lots of nice hand jams i traversed the break as one long sloper. found the start hard too (started up abacus by mistake)!!
leon - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/12 with Derek

MikeLeeds - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/12 with John McMahon

complex climb , lovely
cobweb - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/12 with martyn hopson

jwpil - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/12 with Deacon

jshields - Lead - 05/Aug/12 with Dave Sargent

davewsargent - 2nd - 05/Aug/12

roberto18 - Lead - 28/Jul/12 with Tom Nickols

Hidden - 2nd - 22/May/12

Magnificent and epic! The crux for me was the first rightwards traverse - I really struggled to get established at the foot of the arete (not helped by the rope from above becoming wedged around the nose of the flake). From there it was joyous. The top traverse seemed ok with the use the 2 slots in the wall above.
Steve Waters, Mynydd - 2nd - 20/May/12 with Mike Tempest

Hidden - Lead - 20/May/12

tough climb but great adventure
nigel pearson - Lead O/S - 20/May/12 with Robin

Couldn't work out how to do the traverse to the arete & gave up
cem - Lead dnf - 01/Apr/12 with Kirill Spiridonov

Hidden - 2012

mark20 - Lead O/S - 19/Nov/11

Punter
Will Hunt - 2nd dog - 16/Oct/11 with Duncan MacNeil

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/11

E2.
Dave Foster - 2nd - 18/Sep/11 with Si 2

Hidden - Lead RP - 18/Sep/11

JRae - Lead - 15/Sep/11 with T Anthistle, C Middleton

luke1986 - Lead - Aug/11

kitkat78 - 2nd O/S - 02/Jun/11 with Steve C, Graham P

Felt E2 i though, one spill on the crux, great route mind.
Jonathan Hall - Lead rpt - 24/Oct/10 with Mark Williams

disturbed_one51 - 2nd - 24/Oct/10 with Wee man

Hidden - Lead rpt - 24/Oct/10

Oliver Houston - 2nd - 24/Oct/10

E1. 5c move is safe and there are lots of rests. One of my best climbs of the year though.
Cake - Lead O/S - 24/Oct/10 with Matt

Hidden - Lead - 17/Oct/10

Led ground up about five years after failing and then retreating from the traverse right. Went fine today! Stuck crucial jams at either end of a splits type manoever then styled it out to glory
Cragrat Rich - Lead - 17/Oct/10

slacky - 2nd O/S - 02/Oct/10 with Ben

chrishedgehog - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/10 with Dave Rippon

E2. It's quite a tricky move on the traverse.
Brian Rodgers - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/10 with Ian Wyatt, Eddie Shaw

eduardo - 2nd - 05/Sep/10 with Brian R

I first attempted direct, which was graded 5b in the old guidebook we had (but now 6a in the definitive guidebook and UKC!), but could not commit in a greasy condition in high temperature, then tried to climb down to do this route; a pebble I was holding to snapped and I fell off --- gutted. The rest was still somehow nerve-wrecking (and found a bit harder for the short), but went OK.
masa-alpin - Lead dog - 15/Aug/10 with Gordon

Diggler - 2nd - 24/Jul/10 with andyob, Calder

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/10

ACE!!!
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 14/Feb/10 with Rob

Seymore Butt - 2010

buxtoncoffeelover - 2nd - 2010

Hidden - Dec/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Nov/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 15/Nov/09

Boy - Nov/09 with Fiona Fullwood

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/09

Definitely not E1! Very physical sort of climb, top traverse is a bit desperate.
RCrockford - 2nd - 19/Sep/09 with Mark D

Feckin hard for E1
Diggler - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/09 with RCrockford

I hate this route.
chris sm - 2nd dog - 13/Jun/09 with Jon Pearson

slacky - 2nd O/S - 13/Jun/09

Hidden - Lead - 13/Jun/09

Coel Hellier - Lead - 24/May/09

Solid E2, was my first E2 lead and it was scary but awesome
williamsf1 - Lead O/S - 02/May/09 with rich buswell

quiffhanger - Lead - 2009

Tricky traverse.
lowersharpnose - Lead O/S - 25/Sep/08 with MarkWesterman

Hidden - 2nd dog - 25/Sep/08

Awesome classic
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/08 with Andy B, Hannah

Andrew Barker - 2nd O/S - 17/Sep/08 with Cragdog Al

morganator - 2nd O/S - 12/Sep/08 with Greg Cunninghan

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/08

Nicos - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/08 with rich howels

NickHobbs - Lead O/S - Jun/08 with MikeT

Ian Parnell - Lead O/S - Feb/08 with Jon Winter

jamesturnbull - Lead - 2008

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/Oct/07

Mattyk - 2nd - 08/Sep/07 with Jamie Moss

Jimbo C - 2nd dog - 08/Sep/07

Hidden - Solo O/S - 10/Jul/07

John Roberts (JR) - 10/Jun/07 with Simon Hudson

Hidden - TR - Jun/07

E2 in the new stanage guide! ha!
tom.e - Lead O/S - 20/May/07 with Pete

Didn't have the head to move above the tiny gear I had in the crack so down climbed for another day. Seemed hard for HVS.
featuresforfeet - Lead dnf - 11/Mar/07 with Ian R

Hidden - Lead - 04/Feb/07

Duncan I - 2007

Joe Costello - Lead O/S - 21/Oct/06

Quite a tricky one, almost fell off a couple of times!
MeMeMe - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/06 with Nick

Jack Symmons - Feb/06 with Chris T

Pete Graham - 2nd - 2006 with Tom Everett

Hidden - Lead - 13/Nov/05

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/May/05

Hidden - Lead rpt - 20/Mar/05

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2005

Smelly Fox - 2nd - Oct/04 with Gus Hudgins

cem - Lead dnf - 01/Aug/04 with Rod Strachan

mark s - Solo O/S - 2004

NeilGriffiths - 27/Sep/03 with Simon Frost

Hidden - Lead O/S - Feb/03

Hidden - 2002

chris sm - 2nd dog - 19/May/01 with Dom Goodridge

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/May/01

ian caton - Lead O/S - 2001 with simon

Hidden - Lead dnf - 2000

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Jun/99

cem - 2nd - 25/Apr/98 with Graham Dolman

Roget - Lead rpt - 26/Jan/97 with jon

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/96

Phill Mitch - Lead O/S - 1996 with kurt

nai - Lead - 1995

Michael Hood - Lead - 03/May/92

WB - Lead O/S - 1992

Rich Kirby - Lead - 20/Oct/91

NickJH - Lead - Jul/90 with I Smith

Roget - 2nd O/S - 1989 with jim

Hidden - Lead - 29/Dec/88

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/88 with Dave Forster

BRUCESTRAC - 1988 with Chris Cracknell,Various

sadams - Lead - Sep/87 with Mark Bonham

charlesmfrench - 2nd O/S - 04/Jul/87

Hidden - 12/Jun/86

Hidden - Apr/85

mark-abz - TR - 15/Nov/84

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 21/Jul/83 with Kim Greenald

Hidden - Lead - 24/May/81

Mark Kemball - Lead - 12/Aug/79 with Paul Clark

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
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Voting
Total votes cast 105
hard E20 of 35
E20 of 35
easy E221 of 35
hard E113 of 35
E11 of 35
easy E10 of 35
hard HVS0 of 35
HVS0 of 35
easy HVS0 of 35
hard 5c0 of 37
5c0 of 37
easy 5c30 of 37
hard 5b6 of 37
5b1 of 37
easy 5b0 of 37
hard 5a0 of 37
5a0 of 37
easy 5a0 of 37
3 Stars27 of 33
2 Stars6 of 33
1 Star0 of 33
0 Stars0 of 33
Bag of .....0 of 33
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Style of ascent

Soloed2 of 125 (1.6%)
Lead71 of 125 (56.8%)
Followed35 of 125 (28.0%)
Toproped3 of 125 (2.4%)
Alt Leads1 of 125 (0.8%)
Unknown13 of 125 (10.4%)

'Climbed'56 of 125 (44.8%)
clean O/S51 of 125 (40.8%)
clean β1 of 125 (0.8%)
clean rpt4 of 125 (3.2%)
clean RP1 of 125 (0.8%)
dogged8 of 125 (6.4%)
dnf4 of 125 (3.2%)