UKC

22m.

Rockfax Description
A classic with a bold - but easy - finish. The frustrating (and chipped) initial slab can be ascended in several places at 5a/b. From the ledge, climb through the bulge just to the right of the arete, to another ledge. Step down (low runners) and traverse across the slab to reach its right arete. Follow the right side of this to the top; mild but bold. © Rockfax

FA. Fred Piggott et al. early 1920s.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Best slab climbs of the UK , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide) , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Plantation , Severe Stanage , The Gritlist , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , Eastern Grit Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Slab Dreams , Stanage Slab , frances Bday!

Feedback

User Date Notes
Aither 31 Oct, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Good route wouldn\'t say the start is that bad, but again If it was at the end I\'d probably say it was. Classic VS
βeta?
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βeta: Good route wouldn't say the start is that bad, but again If it was at the end I'd probably say it was. Classic VS
Summit Sense 12 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Spring 2021: Ring Ouzel restriction sign in place
βeta?
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βeta: Spring 2021: Ring Ouzel restriction sign in place
Dale Berry 23 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: A victim of its own poularity with the start, but once passed the rest is good steady stuff, no where harder than 4b. The traverse focuses things nicely, but do you realy need to worry about the gear when the moves are that easy?
Show beta
βeta: A victim of its own poularity with the start, but once passed the rest is good steady stuff, no where harder than 4b. The traverse focuses things nicely, but do you realy need to worry about the gear when the moves are that easy?
Fidget 2 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I seconded this and really enjoyed it. Especially the start, most satisfying if you don't use the arete for hands. Wish I'd led it to appreciate the exposure when you start the traverse and the boldness.
Show beta
βeta: I seconded this and really enjoyed it. Especially the start, most satisfying if you don't use the arete for hands. Wish I'd led it to appreciate the exposure when you start the traverse and the boldness.
Si dH 24 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Slightly dodgy friend 2 2/3rds of the way along the traverse. Brilliant route though, just trust those feet!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Slightly dodgy friend 2 2/3rds of the way along the traverse. Brilliant route though, just trust those feet!

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 218
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 208
Votes cast 209
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Quien Sabe?

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Bamford Edge)

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