Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
The fine twisting groove is one of the best routes on the crag though not all agree! The initial corner is the thrutchy crux for many, it is usually wedged and jammed facing right, though it can also be layback or even bridged, facing in or out! The midway ledge offers some respite then the upper bulging groove can be laybacked or bridged elegantly to easy ground. © Rockfax
FA. Peter Harding 1947.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 , Top 20 Gritstone UKC Wishlist Climbs , Top 25 UKC Wishlist Rock Climbs , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Stanage *** HVS's , Stanage 3 Star HVS's - Eastern Grit , World Graded List , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , UK Classic Corners , Peak Rock/5/ Always a Little Steeper , Ultimate HVS ticklist , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , ULMC Classics , 50 of the Best , Top 50 Peak Cracks , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , The V.S.+ Ticklist , 3 Star Stanage , To Goliath's Groove and beyond , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Hobo Unicorn Essentials , Memorable Climbs , Bridging Corners, Grooves, Diedres in the UK , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50 , Stanage Plantation , Stan , On Peak Rock , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , Severe Stanage , The Gritlist , UK smearing corners , Proper Cracks UK , Post-Covid19 Eastern Grit Targets. , Stanage HVS Challenge , Post-lockdown Peak jamming hoedown , Stanage HVS Challenge - All the 3* , Stanage Routes - Epic Crackathon , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Big trad grit list , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , Eastern Grit Crack School - Part 2 , I’ve climbed a thousand VDiffs but I wanna be a HVS climber , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 100 Best Routes on Grit , The Wishlist Challenge , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , 3* HVS at Bamford, Stanage, Burbage, Millstone, Froggatt, and Curbar , 2023 , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , MUMC 2023 Fundraiser Routes , Peak grit , *** HVS on Peak Gritstone , UKC Gritstone Top 20 Wishlist Climbs , Stanage 1956
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| Shaun climbs 92 | 16 Mar |
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βeta: Really hard for the grade or could be my poor jamming skills | βeta? | |
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βeta: Really hard for the grade or could be my poor jamming skills |
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| Stanley | 18 Jun, 2023 |
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βeta: Tough. Seconding Joey - tried to layback the groove on the right - didn’t work. Got it second go from the ground foot jamming in the crack. | ||
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βeta: Tough. Seconding Joey - tried to layback the groove on the right - didn’t work. Got it second go from the ground foot jamming in the crack. |
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| JayW | 4 Jun, 2020 |
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βeta: A fine climb. There's an in situ wire on the crack on the upper bulge. | βeta? | |
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βeta: A fine climb. There's an in situ wire on the crack on the upper bulge. |
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| Iain Thow | 17 Mar, 2007 |
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βeta: Thuglaybackbridgejamswingyeeehah! - and what a line. One of the best routes on grit | ||
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βeta: Thuglaybackbridgejamswingyeeehah! - and what a line. One of the best routes on grit |
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| Luke01 | 20 Aug, 2006 |
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βeta: I agree with Kristian, if you elegantly bridge with a touch of laybacking for a move or two, the route is beautiful, and delicate. | ||
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βeta: I agree with Kristian, if you elegantly bridge with a touch of laybacking for a move or two, the route is beautiful, and delicate. |
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| vvanhinsbergh | 17 May, 2006 |
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βeta: Thoroughly enjoyable, best climb i have found on Stanage so far.... Agree the bottom is not for the light hearted, although i managed first attempt as my first HVS! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Thoroughly enjoyable, best climb i have found on Stanage so far.... Agree the bottom is not for the light hearted, although i managed first attempt as my first HVS! |
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| CurlyStevo | 11 May, 2006 |
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βeta: It simply isn't HVD at the bootom, the bottom is the crux and is harder than any VS corner crack I've climbed. | βeta? | |
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βeta: It simply isn't HVD at the bootom, the bottom is the crux and is harder than any VS corner crack I've climbed. |
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| andygb | 9 May, 2006 |
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βeta: Climbed this at VS. When it was 'upgraded' to HVS several years ago (along with many other routes in a new guide)I was so incensed that I soloed it, first route of the day to prove a point - I was not an HVS solo leader at the time. HVD bottom, pleasant VS above. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Climbed this at VS. When it was 'upgraded' to HVS several years ago (along with many other routes in a new guide)I was so incensed that I soloed it, first route of the day to prove a point - I was not an HVS solo leader at the time. HVD bottom, pleasant VS above. |
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| MNA123 | 10 Apr, 2006 |
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βeta: Yeh i fell off and weighted the gear a couple of three times on the initial crack. after the pump out on the ledge the rest is a lot easier then it looks, feels a tad precarious when your pumped out to the max tho, bloody grtstone, bloody love it :-)! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Yeh i fell off and weighted the gear a couple of three times on the initial crack. after the pump out on the ledge the rest is a lot easier then it looks, feels a tad precarious when your pumped out to the max tho, bloody grtstone, bloody love it :-)! |
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| Wil Treasure | 22 Jan, 2006 |
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βeta: There seem to be a few who've decked off this. Not quite sure how, it's easy to place good protection for the first section without an enormous cam. Good climbing, which is straightforward but energy sapping for the start (I jammed). | βeta? | |
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βeta: There seem to be a few who've decked off this. Not quite sure how, it's easy to place good protection for the first section without an enormous cam. Good climbing, which is straightforward but energy sapping for the start (I jammed). |
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| EarlyBird | 11 Dec, 2005 |
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βeta: Interesting range of opinions. I did this as one of my first HVS's, as it was considered a soft touch. Laybacked the first 15ft, first piece of gear as the angle eased and it all felt pretty easy. Have been back since and thrutched it, very secure; and bridged it, very elegant but very precarious. I don't think this can be considered hard for HVS unless you're afraid to get physical with those first 15 ft. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Interesting range of opinions. I did this as one of my first HVS's, as it was considered a soft touch. Laybacked the first 15ft, first piece of gear as the angle eased and it all felt pretty easy. Have been back since and thrutched it, very secure; and bridged it, very elegant but very precarious. I don't think this can be considered hard for HVS unless you're afraid to get physical with those first 15 ft. |
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| steveoracle | 14 Nov, 2005 |
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βeta: bloody awful, the lower cracks a desperate thrutch and the upper is a short realtively easy layback. No way three stars, the Blurter is much much better... | βeta? | |
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βeta: bloody awful, the lower cracks a desperate thrutch and the upper is a short realtively easy layback. No way three stars, the Blurter is much much better... |
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| sheffieldchris | 30 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: anyone saying this is easy is climbing well above the hvs grade and talking out of their a.s. if this is at the top of your normal game stay away until you are climbing solid at hvs. i tried it as one of my first hvs's came off hit the deck skined a knuckle allmost off. Next time a year later bridged up it still hard, not easy to put gear in as you are more to the right of crack but got through it, bold and strong arms needed | ||
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Show beta
βeta: anyone saying this is easy is climbing well above the hvs grade and talking out of their a.s. if this is at the top of your normal game stay away until you are climbing solid at hvs. i tried it as one of my first hvs's came off hit the deck skined a knuckle allmost off. Next time a year later bridged up it still hard, not easy to put gear in as you are more to the right of crack but got through it, bold and strong arms needed |
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| Chris the Tall | 11 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: Hideous and desperate for the first 15ft, but great thereafter. Probably not a great choice if you have a hangover and a paranoia about foot-jamming | βeta? | |
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βeta: Hideous and desperate for the first 15ft, but great thereafter. Probably not a great choice if you have a hangover and a paranoia about foot-jamming |
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| Munir Hassan | 30 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: My first HVS - admittedly not quite a clean ascent on the first short blank section. | βeta? | |
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βeta: My first HVS - admittedly not quite a clean ascent on the first short blank section. |
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| Richard Horn | 16 Dec, 2004 |
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βeta: Hindsight is a great thing... | βeta? | |
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βeta: Hindsight is a great thing... |
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| TomG | 16 Dec, 2004 |
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βeta: The finger jam, is that not quite high up? Why did you only have one cam in? | βeta? | |
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βeta: The finger jam, is that not quite high up? Why did you only have one cam in? |
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| Richard Horn | 29 Nov, 2004 |
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βeta: I am one of the 'poor unsuspecting outsiders' mentioned above that tried this on my first trip to Stanage doing routes on saturday. Having tried bridging it I slithered off the initial groove onto a No 4 cam and then retreated to the ground for a rest upset at losing the onsight but comforted by the gear holding well. Anyway next try I slithered off again only one move or so from the safety of the finger jam, this time the cam ripped and I landed on the rocks below on my back. Maybe this is standard fare for gritstone specialists but seemed plain nasty for someone unfamiliar with the techniques. The bruises I have now suggest this route should carry a health warning! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I am one of the 'poor unsuspecting outsiders' mentioned above that tried this on my first trip to Stanage doing routes on saturday. Having tried bridging it I slithered off the initial groove onto a No 4 cam and then retreated to the ground for a rest upset at losing the onsight but comforted by the gear holding well. Anyway next try I slithered off again only one move or so from the safety of the finger jam, this time the cam ripped and I landed on the rocks below on my back. Maybe this is standard fare for gritstone specialists but seemed plain nasty for someone unfamiliar with the techniques. The bruises I have now suggest this route should carry a health warning! |
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| Jon Greengrass | 17 Jun, 2003 |
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βeta: Looked at it and thought, i'll try the elegant bridging method, got up to the first decent foot holds with no gear and could barely reach the back of the crack to place a wire and didn't have a size 5 friend. So went with the thrutch technique, the knee locks are amazing and give you a no hands rest on every move! I was quite worried when my whole left leg started getting very hot( route induce DVT?) only nuts 8-9 will be accepted or a size 1 friend. After the initial thrutch, the rest of the route can be bridged pleasantly and laces with gear at about severe. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Looked at it and thought, i'll try the elegant bridging method, got up to the first decent foot holds with no gear and could barely reach the back of the crack to place a wire and didn't have a size 5 friend. So went with the thrutch technique, the knee locks are amazing and give you a no hands rest on every move! I was quite worried when my whole left leg started getting very hot( route induce DVT?) only nuts 8-9 will be accepted or a size 1 friend. After the initial thrutch, the rest of the route can be bridged pleasantly and laces with gear at about severe. |
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| Robo | 30 Jun, 2002 |
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βeta: Argh. The bottom crack. Flared. Polished. Bridged, lay-backed, fallen off. Ripped trousers and arms. How the hell do you climb that??? | ||
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βeta: Argh. The bottom crack. Flared. Polished. Bridged, lay-backed, fallen off. Ripped trousers and arms. How the hell do you climb that??? |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
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Eliminator
Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Stanage Popular)