Rockfax Description
Bizarre but a superb move. Leap the crevasse for the beckoning square hold and mantel a way to glory. Not a boulder problem but f6C when the snow is deep enough! © Rockfax

FA. Martin Veale 1987

Ticklists: Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Consumed.

Beastly Squirrel 17/Feb Sent β

No snow and three cut fingers made up for a spicy flash! What a problem, so unique! Thanks to family for a rather scary spot.

with Family, Dad
Alex moore 04/Feb -
Gaz of Bath 08/Jan Solo
Ram MkiV 30/Dec/14 Sent

sketched up 1st go after making the jump. (which took a few tries - weak legs)

dan gibson 28/Dec/14 Sent x


with AJ, michael porter
BillyRidal 28/Dec/14 Sent x

Rocks flattened out with snow followed by 9 pads and two spotters, safe as houses. Still took me 3 goes to commit to the jump which in reality is pretty steady. f6b+

Hidden 28/Dec/14 Solo RP
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
Matthew Ferrier 23/Nov/13 Sent x

3rd go. Used some pretty chin-intensive beta.

with Chaps from Leeds, Jacob, Micki, Dave Warburton
Dave Warburton 23/Nov/13 Sent

Should of actually jumped the first time...LOTS of pads

Will Hunt 23/Nov/13 Sent rpt

With a stack of approx 15 pads this time! First go.

with Ben Finley, Tom Nichols
Hidden 23/Nov/13 Sent x
Orrin Coley 06/Aug/13 Sent O/S

No clue on grade, clearly isn't a route but a bloody dangerous boulder... Stacked loads of pads and built a nice landing with plenty of spotters, still felt ridiculously scared though. Disappointing how easy it was but fun either way.

whitehouse_rhys 19/Apr/13 Solo rpt

went back for the no snow ascent

with heather osborn
Hidden 08/Apr/13 Solo dnf
Gus 07/Apr/13 Solo β

Awesome fun above snow!!

with sam whittaker
Duncan Disorderly 07/Apr/13 Sent

Never thought I'd do this... Great moves, still felt spicy above snow, would be writing this from a hospital bed without it!

john lynch 06/Apr/13 Sent O/S

above snow, pleased to get the flash.

with Tom
Jeronimo 06/Apr/13 Sent rpt
Hidden 06/Apr/13 Solo β
J.Wells 06/Apr/13 Sent x

above a sea of snow and foam...

with Guy Van Greuning, Chris Barr
whitehouse_rhys 05/Apr/13 Solo O/S


with heather osborn, Mark Roe
MarkRoe 05/Apr/13 Sent x

We bumped into Martin Veale attempting to repeat it 26 years after his first ascent, sound gent! Ended up spending most of the afternoon with him on Don and Archangel.

with Martin Veale, Rhys Whitehouse
akhughes 04/Apr/13 Solo O/S


wi11 04/Apr/13 Sent dnf

Didn't expect to catch the jug...didn't know what to do!

with Rob Greenwood, Duncan C
Bennykr 04/Apr/13 Sent O/S

Psyched for the flash, even if it was made safer with the snow.

with Adam H
Si dH 04/Apr/13 Sent O/S

Snowball, totally safe. Pleased to flash.

drysori 04/Apr/13 Sent dnf

But the pocket consistently, but just couldn't do the next moves!

Hidden 03/Apr/13 Sent x
Hidden 03/Apr/13 -
timbanton 03/Apr/13 Sent


AlistairB 03/Apr/13 Sent x

Snowball, 3rd go after a big but safe tumble off the top.

fp219 02/Apr/13 -


birdie1989 02/Apr/13 Sent


Chris_barr 02/Apr/13 Sent
WillDoyle 02/Apr/13 Sent x
Haydn Jones 02/Apr/13 Sent x

Took awhile to commit to the jump. Once I did it went first try

Hidden 01/Apr/13 Sent
BenNorman 01/Apr/13 Sent x

Flashed today but tried sans snow before, Just a boulder problem at the moment but awesome all the same!

andi turner 01/Apr/13 Sent

Great day out above the snow with loads of great people.

eazyclimbing 01/Apr/13 Sent
al123 01/Apr/13 Sent rpt
with Crew
infected mushroom ?/Apr/13 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?/Apr/13 Solo

Above snow thank goodness, apparently I'm not very good at jumping.

al123 31/Mar/13 Sent

1st go today.

Will Hunt 31/Mar/13 Sent x

Snowballed, safe as houses.

with James Williamson, Luke Donaldson
jacobjlloyd 31/Mar/13 Sent x

Snowball over a good landing with pads - no danger but a fun problem. Found it harder than expected, which made it feel better to get after a few goes. Once I worked it out i was surprised I struggled so much in the first place.

with Ross
quiffhanger 31/Mar/13 Sent x

Super safe & fun with a massive snowdrift filling the gap. 3 times!

with Jake
james.f.williamson 31/Mar/13 Sent

Snow balled.

with grubes
Matt Cooke 31/Mar/13 Sent x

Above snow

Hidden 31/Mar/13 Sent
harvie 30/Mar/13 Solo O/S
with tom harvie
Howard Lawledge 30/Mar/13 Sent

Lots of snow :)

with Maddy
Dan 85 30/Mar/13 Sent x
with Dave, Alex B, Lewi, Rich
samt ??/2013 -
nathanlee 02/Dec/12 Sent β

flash, sketched the top. had many pads.

GuyVG 02/Dec/12 Sent dnf

got the pocket a few times but couldn't get myself sorted enough for upwards movement. Funny problem, mental without pads.

with crew
mark20 14/Oct/12 Sent O/S
Harry Chaplin 14/Oct/12 Sent x
jake_haddock 14/Oct/12 Sent β
kieranrex 06/Oct/12 -

Really good fun. Spicy font 6c with mats

with luke, Tim Peck
BRoe 14/Jul/12 Solo G/U
fennerz 16/Jan/12 Sent x

With about 10 pads in the pit, got it second go. Amazing!! Easier than i expected, probably because i wasn't facing an ankle snapper...

Ethan 14/Jan/12 Solo
with Big crowd, Ted Kingsnorth, Don Walker
al123 30/Oct/11 Sent dnf

made the jump and got close to doing it but just needed that little bit more, maybe when im fresh. loads of pads

with alex
MorganPreece 28/Mar/11 Solo β

2 test runs, then went for it! amazing problem!

with George Filming for HDrock films
Jeronimo 06/Mar/11 Sent x

second go, after Liam showed the way

jacobjacob 11/Jan/11 Solo O/S

3 pads, 2 spotters, 1 badass motherf**ker!

Hidden 12/Dec/10 Sent dnf
Hidden 12/Dec/10 Solo
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 14/May/10 Sent β

Wearing a wig and a fake moustache

sadams 14/May/10 Sent

On Tom's stag with lots ad lots of mats

stuartmunn 15/Apr/10 Solo dnf

Made the jump every time, but couldn't finish. 5 days of grit takes it out of you!

Mike Goldthorp 14/Mar/10 Sent dnf

Went for it once but missed the pocket, oops. But the fall was chillin so got it next time, but couldnt work out the rock over so jumped back. Next time :-)

Hidden 17/Jan/10 Sent dnf
jeffmcd56 ??/2010 Sent β
with Wez
Hidden 05/Dec/09 Sent β
willackers 05/Dec/09 Solo β

Wanted to do this for years!, quality!

with Dan Walker
Hidden ?/Dec/09 -
JSA ??/2008 -
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?/Feb/03 Solo O/S

onsight but with mat. Still v Exciting with great last move.

CrashMat Rob 14/May/00 TR
with Brian, Nicky
Hidden ?/Nov/92 Solo O/S
craig h ?/Apr/92 Solo rpt
craig h ?/Jun/91 TR O/S
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Fraser hill-casey, jedster1111, Stevie989, Hidden, JamesTurnbull97, mop449, Jake, James_86, bclifton, Jay.Carr, Hidden, pr1984, Dan Geh, aretherenoneleft, tgeh, Hidden, Hidden, Andrew Barker, hfac, Matt Reid, Hidden, Hidden, Mattyk, Diggler, danwaters, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
Votes cast 16
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 19
Votes cast 17
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set