UKC

14m.

Rockfax Description
Excellent stuff. Starting from left or right, climb the parallel cracks until they become one, then take the continuation to the top. A well protected and a popular climb for pushing the grade and honing the jamming. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Top 23 UKC Climbed Climbs , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Eastern Grit Jamming , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide) , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Top 50 Peak Cracks , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stan , Consolidation and developmental path to VS , The Gritlist , Severe Stanage , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , York University Students path to greatness , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Eastern Grit Crack School - Part 1 , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Eastern Grit Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HS , LSMC to do , Top 20 UKC Gritstone Climbs , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Row & Tom's Stanage HS Challenge , Stanage HS Challenge , Grit Starred routes aspirations 2023 , frances Bday!

Feedback

User Date Notes
EA_Mountain_Skills 8 Feb, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Quality. Early gear is a good idea. Plenty of cam placements available.
Show beta
βeta: Quality. Early gear is a good idea. Plenty of cam placements available.
PaulJepson 2 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: The block which you monkey on to get over to the twin cracks is loose. Get some early gear in!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The block which you monkey on to get over to the twin cracks is loose. Get some early gear in!
Diverrobster 29 Jan, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: In 1997 When I climbed this it was graded VS 4c
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: In 1997 When I climbed this it was graded VS 4c
JohnHutch 26 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Beautiful! (but 4c is a bit OTT)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Beautiful! (but 4c is a bit OTT)
sheffieldchris 30 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: do this route if you are just starting on vs or it's a sunny sunday and you just want to cruise up and use ever bit of gear you own soft at vs but 3 star all the way
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: do this route if you are just starting on vs or it's a sunny sunday and you just want to cruise up and use ever bit of gear you own soft at vs but 3 star all the way
Lizard 27 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Would make an excellent first VS. Easy to place protection all the way. Low in the grade but steep enough to warrant it. Well worth doing.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Would make an excellent first VS. Easy to place protection all the way. Low in the grade but steep enough to warrant it. Well worth doing.
leon 9 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: not that hard but so what, its fun
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: not that hard but so what, its fun
The old James turnbull 8 Mar, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: probably about the right grade, just low for it. defo 3 stars though, was easy but execellent fun
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: probably about the right grade, just low for it. defo 3 stars though, was easy but execellent fun
shaun walby 28 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Think its worth the 3 stars but dont know about the 4c poss 4b.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Think its worth the 3 stars but dont know about the 4c poss 4b.
Dale Berry 8 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Watch out at the top for some VERY dodgy wire placements for anchors. Theres a crack that looks like its been used for lots of 'em where half of it wobbles by about 2-3"! More secure stuff is further back. Over graded, over starred, but still nice, if not quite paradise.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Watch out at the top for some VERY dodgy wire placements for anchors. Theres a crack that looks like its been used for lots of 'em where half of it wobbles by about 2-3"! More secure stuff is further back. Over graded, over starred, but still nice, if not quite paradise.
gav p 15 Aug, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Definitely HS. 4b moves, numerous good rests and you can place your whole rack if you want. Nevertheless, a brilliant route on big jugs all the way. Worth the three stars.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Definitely HS. 4b moves, numerous good rests and you can place your whole rack if you want. Nevertheless, a brilliant route on big jugs all the way. Worth the three stars.
Nick Smith - Climbers 16 Apr, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: A lovely route, deserving its 3-stars, but yes, probably HS rather than VS.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A lovely route, deserving its 3-stars, but yes, probably HS rather than VS.
EarlyBird 31 Mar, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Bit of a mystery this one. Prior to the publication of Peak Gritstone East there seemed to be a strong argument for downgrading this route to HS...and yet it has gone into the guide well up the VS graded list. Weird.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Bit of a mystery this one. Prior to the publication of Peak Gritstone East there seemed to be a strong argument for downgrading this route to HS...and yet it has gone into the guide well up the VS graded list. Weird.
VisionSet 2 Jan, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: For me, the most overgraded grit VS on Eastern Grit. Superbly protected, completely unsustained, with a short bit of 4b near the top.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: For me, the most overgraded grit VS on Eastern Grit. Superbly protected, completely unsustained, with a short bit of 4b near the top.

Logged Ascents

4763 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 401 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 504
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 469
Votes cast 454
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Upper Tor Wall

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Kinder Southern Edges)

Loading Notifications...