Rockfax Description
The curving fissure that bounds the left side of the buttress is novel. The start is awkward but the wide leaning section provides the crux (not much gear) and is best tackled on your back! Reckoned to be harder than Billiard Buttress by some! © Rockfax

Ticklists: Stanage: My Favourite Five, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage for Crack Apprentices.

Hidden 11/Oct Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Oct Lead O/S
Tom Last 24/Sep Lead O/S

Good stuff. Easy. High stepping the slab at the top.

Theo Mossop ?/Aug Lead O/S
doyle12 28/Jun 2nd
with Dan S
Hidden 28/Jun 2nd
RKirke 25/May Solo O/S

A really enjoyable climb, the struggle just made it better.

with Banksy
Derek Furze 23/May 2nd
with Paul Mitchell
AGoodi 25/Apr Lead O/S


with Chris Ravey
khalidq 25/Apr Lead dog

Fell off at beginning onto block below. Quite hurt.

with Andy Evans (NLMC new member)
gazj1986 23/Apr Lead
FlavioL1989 06/Apr Solo O/S
Hidden 22/Mar 2nd
John Higgs 08/Mar Lead O/S
with Caitlin Bell
Hidden ??/2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Dec/14 Lead rpt
lee1234 06/Dec/14 2nd O/S
charley 01/Jun/14 Solo O/S

Fantastic climb, missed out lying on my back though? Faced left the whole way up. Start was fine and the rest was good, old fashioned climbing - right leg jammed in, chicken-wing with my right arm, weight on my left foot with toe & heel jams on the front edge and left hand palming off. Got harder slightly closer to the top where it got too wide to heel & toe jam. Pretty much walked up the curving section at the top using layback/undercut moves. Will have to try it facing the other way next time...

LJC 31/May/14 Lead O/S
with Little Ben
LovelyMrTom 18/May/14 Lead O/S

A real struggle that is only fun in hindsight! Beat both of my seconds, had to ab to clean.

Ejminee 18/May/14 2nd
admackie 28/Apr/14 -
sgl 27/Apr/14 Lead
with Jonathan
JEP 27/Apr/14 2nd
funsized 10/Apr/14 Solo dnf

Full Offwidth tactics with boots and wooly jumper. Couldn't repeat the glory of the day before. Had to slide down in shame.

funsized 09/Apr/14 Solo O/S
Nick1812P 29/Mar/14 Solo O/S
with Jamie
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
Hidden 23/Nov/13 2nd β
AndyPagett 23/Nov/13 TR O/S

Absolutely horrific. But good fun. Made light work of it after Maia and Mark faffed for eternity.

MYox 23/Nov/13 Lead

Horror show.

with Maia
Hidden 23/Nov/13 Solo
DanielGyi 08/Sep/13 Solo O/S
Mario Grabinski 18/Aug/13 Lead
with Ronnie Jones
Jonny M 27/Jul/13 TR O/S
with Ali Pearson
Eagertom 26/Jun/13 Solo O/S

The climb doesn't make the cut in Eastern Grit, so I had no idea of the grade. It was a push getting my whole body into the crack, but once I managed it I felt like I coped quite gracefully, which is rare for such off width grunging.

Matt Marsh 16/Jun/13 Lead O/S
bobpilgrem 02/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Dennis
jwhereat 04/May/13 2nd O/S
hoshea 01/May/13 Lead rpt

Very little in terms of protection placing making this climb a risky lead with only 1 peace of strong protection 2/3rds up.

with Ben Anderson
Paul Hy 21/Feb/13 2nd β
with Deacon
deacondeacon 21/Feb/13 Lead O/S

Great fun, would have been better as a solo as the only gear is about 1/3 up the initial chimney (unless you have some monster cams).

HVSJames ??/2013 2nd O/S

I hate crack!!

zephr 04/Sep/12 Lead O/S
MichaelGallimore 02/Sep/12 Lead O/S

An extremely enjoyable climb for those who extremely enjoy off widths. I loved getting stuck in and squirming up. Fantastic finish under the hollybush too. Tom called this climb perverted. Nobody would follow me up so had to ab back down for gear. This is also the exit to a nice little cave scamper which starts round the other side of te buttress.

Heather651 11/Aug/12 2nd
tomshanti 18/May/12 Solo O/S

just looking,wriggled up and yes,crux on my back!

mark schramm 24/Mar/12 2nd
with si
Simon Allcock ??/2012 Lead O/S
with Mark
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 30/Oct/11 Lead
Hidden 22/Oct/11 Solo
Hidden 15/Oct/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 15/Oct/11 Solo O/S
pie_eater_pete 23/Sep/11 Solo O/S
lozowen 09/Sep/11 Solo
akhughes ?/Sep/11 -
Happy Haggis ?/Sep/11 2nd
Robbo1 ?/Sep/11 Lead
Hidden 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
philboy 28/Jul/11 Lead
with bisanth
JamieSparkes 13/Jul/11 Lead O/S

not sure facing right was easier, Liam just walked up the curved bit!

Liam Ingram 13/Jul/11 2nd O/S

Easier to make progress on the arete and rest in the chimney rather than thrutching all the way.

Brown 29/Jan/11 Solo O/S
with Solo
walts4 ??/2011 -
uphillnow ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden 07/Nov/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Aug/10 Lead
Sam Simpson 16/Aug/10 Solo O/S
Hidden 15/Aug/10 Solo O/S
Andrew Barker 29/Jul/10 Solo O/S

Fun times.

Graeme Hammond 23/May/10 Solo O/S

spun round and exited on my front, good traditional fun, no hands no feet rest at one point truly wedged in!

climbingVet ?/May/10 AltLd O/S
peter myers ?/Apr/10 2nd
Hidden ??/2010 Solo O/S
Danny Crump 20/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Dave Delarre
Bernie Wylde 05/Jul/09 Lead
Steve J P 05/Jul/09 2nd
with BW
Hidden 25/May/09 TR O/S
rob wmc 25/May/09 TR O/S
with Petar & Alan
Hardcore Howlett 23/May/09 Lead O/S
with Vanessa Buth
Hidden 25/Apr/09 2nd O/S
Sarah Bough 14/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Dan Burbridge
keith leonard ??/2009 -
Hidden 18/Oct/08 Lead O/S
lowersharpnose 27/Sep/08 Solo O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/08 -
Hidden 15/Aug/08 2nd O/S
victim of mathematics 15/Aug/08 2nd O/S

I feel I missed out all the fun. I faced left and walked up the slab at the top instead of offwidthing. I feel a bit dirty :o

with Lizzie
popebenedictus 15/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Comedy grovelling. Colin followed as well

scrat ?/Aug/08 2nd
feilx 11/Jun/08 Solo O/S
alek 31/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/May/08 2nd O/S
Laurence Everitt 31/May/08 2nd O/S
with Tommy B
Alkis 15/Apr/08 TR O/S
Hidden 15/Feb/08 Lead O/S
Jeronimo 15/Feb/08 2nd O/S

Really good route! Very awkward, with a very interesting body jam on your back (although Andy did it on his front somehow). The words 'beached' and 'whale' spring to mind. Would like to lead it next.

with Andy Winters
Hidden ??/2008 -
feilx 21/Oct/07 Solo O/S
Hidden 22/Sep/07 2nd O/S
Dan Leach 03/Jun/07 2nd O/S
with Ian Atkins
Hidden 02/Jun/07 Solo rpt
climbingpixie 02/Jun/07 Solo

Hilarious. For best effect solo it with loads of people around so they can laugh as you squirm up the top slab on your back, half in the crack and half hanging out.

Hidden 03/May/07 2nd
craig matheson ?/Apr/07 Solo
Hidden ??/2007 -
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 06/Aug/06 Solo O/S
robgilchrist ?/May/06 -
JuneBob 30/Apr/06 Lead O/S

My first ever climb at Stanage, thought I'd do a nice easy VDiff to warm up - How wrong I was.... ('96 Stanage Guide)

with Alison
Pete Graham ??/2006 Solo
Nicos 12/Dec/05 Solo O/S
with solo
Hidden ?/Dec/05 Solo
dannyboy83 ?/Oct/05 Solo O/S
WRMusall 24/Sep/05 2nd
with Charlie G
Si dH 14/Sep/05 2nd O/S


with Tom Lambert
SecretSquirrel ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S

Tough route, happy to be seconding!

with Ben
Rampikino 23/Apr/05 Lead
with Rob Wilson & Blond Mark
SteveM 10/Apr/05 2nd
with Keith
Tobias at Home ??/2005 -
Hidden 05/Sep/04 2nd
adam carless ??/2004 Solo O/S
Mark Stitson (ULGMC) 06/Dec/03 2nd
GPN ?/Nov/03 Lead
with Andy Warner
scarybiker ?/Jun/03 2nd


DerwentDiluted 29/Jun/02 Solo
Jon Greengrass ??/2002 -
Hidden ??/2002 -
Dave Toseland ??/2002 -
Hidden 19/Aug/00 Solo O/S
Hidden 19/Aug/00 Solo
Katie Weston ?/Jul/00 2nd
Rock Fairy ??/2000 2nd
Hidden ?/May/99 Solo O/S
rocktigger ??/1999 Lead O/S

After watching a lass (Havin been told it would be a nice first S lead) fail to get two moves off the ground it just had to done. I think any other S on the whole of Stanage would have been easier!

with Clare
Paul-Michael 26/Sep/98 2nd O/S
with David Jupp
DavidEvans ?/May/98 Solo
with Tim Stallard
craig h ?/Mar/98 Solo rpt
craig h 18/Nov/95 Solo O/S
Hidden 05/Nov/95 Solo
Hidden ??/1995 Lead
rurp ??/1995 -
atom 26/Sep/93 2nd
with Sheila Ellison
Iain Thow 07/May/91 Solo
Andy Say 01/Oct/89 Lead
Hidden 03/May/89 Solo
tapley 22/Jun/88 -
BRUCESTRAC ??/1988 -
with Chris Cracknell,Various
johnny20whales 06/Jul/85 Solo
GordonHart ??/1985 Solo O/S
Dave Musgrove 18/Apr/76 Solo
with Tim Leach, Dennis Gray
mikej 23/Feb/74 Solo
Dave Musgrove 10/Oct/71 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
DanChad, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, phil.cheeseman, Hidden
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High HVD
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