Curved Crack* HS 4c
[Displaying a bodyjam on Curved Crack, 2 kb]18m. The curving fissure that bounds the left side of the buttress is novel. The start is awkward but the wide leaning section provides the crux and is best tackled lying on your back! Reckoned to be harder than Billiard Buttress by some! © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Stanage: My Favourite Five, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 500, Stanage for Crack Apprentices.

Photo: Displaying a bodyjam on Curved Crack © Hjort

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 142 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead rpt - 06/Dec/14

lee1234 - 2nd O/S - 06/Dec/14 with Neilmackie

Fantastic climb, missed out lying on my back though? Faced left the whole way up. Start was fine and the rest was good, old fashioned climbing - right leg jammed in, chicken-wing with my right arm, weight on my left foot with toe & heel jams on the front edge and left hand palming off. Got harder slightly closer to the top where it got too wide to heel & toe jam. Pretty much walked up the curving section at the top using layback/undercut moves. Will have to try it facing the other way next time...
charley - Solo O/S - 01/Jun/14

LJC - Lead O/S - 31/May/14 with Little Ben

A real struggle that is only fun in hindsight! Beat both of my seconds, had to ab to clean.
LovelyMrTom - Lead O/S - 18/May/14 with Emma Mines

Hidden - 2nd - 18/May/14

admackie - 28/Apr/14

sgl - Lead - 27/Apr/14 with Jonathan

JEP - 2nd - 27/Apr/14

Full Offwidth tactics with boots and wooly jumper. Couldn't repeat the glory of the day before. Had to slide down in shame.
funsized - Solo dnf - 10/Apr/14

funsized - Solo O/S - 09/Apr/14

Nick1812P - Solo O/S - 29/Mar/14 with Jamie

Dan Arkle - 2014

Hidden - 2nd β - 23/Nov/13

Absolutely horrific. But good fun. Made light work of it after Maia and Mark faffed for eternity.
AndyPagett - TR O/S - 23/Nov/13 with Mark Yoxon, Maia Hunnex

Horror show.
MYox - Lead - 23/Nov/13 with Maia

Hidden - Solo - 23/Nov/13

Hidden - Solo O/S - 08/Sep/13

Mario Grabinski - Lead - 18/Aug/13 with Ronnie Jones

Jonny M - TR O/S - 27/Jul/13 with Ali Pearson

The climb doesn't make the cut in Eastern Grit, so I had no idea of the grade. It was a push getting my whole body into the crack, but once I managed it I felt like I coped quite gracefully, which is rare for such off width grunging.
Eagertom - Solo O/S - 26/Jun/13

Matt Marsh - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/13 with James Swainston

bobpilgrem - 2nd O/S - 02/Jun/13 with Dennis

jwhereat - 2nd O/S - 04/May/13

Very little in terms of protection placing making this climb a risky lead with only 1 peace of strong protection 2/3rds up.
hoshea - Lead rpt - 01/May/13 with Ben Anderson

Paul Hy - 2nd β - 21/Feb/13 with Deacon

Great fun, would have been better as a solo as the only gear is about 1/3 up the initial chimney (unless you have some monster cams).
deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 21/Feb/13

I hate crack!!
HVSJames - 2nd O/S - 2013 with Matt Marsh

zephr - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/12

An extremely enjoyable climb for those who extremely enjoy off widths. I loved getting stuck in and squirming up. Fantastic finish under the hollybush too. Tom called this climb perverted. Nobody would follow me up so had to ab back down for gear. This is also the exit to a nice little cave scamper which starts round the other side of te buttress.
MichaelGallimore - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/12

Heather651 - 2nd - 11/Aug/12

just looking,wriggled up and yes,crux on my back!
tomshanti - Solo O/S - 18/May/12

mark schramm - 2nd - 24/Mar/12 with si

Simon Allcock - Lead O/S - 2012 with Mark

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - Lead - 30/Oct/11

Hidden - Solo - 22/Oct/11

Hidden - Solo O/S - 15/Oct/11

Hidden - Solo O/S - 15/Oct/11

pie_eater_pete - Solo O/S - 23/Sep/11

lozowen - Solo - 09/Sep/11

akhughes - Sep/11

Happy Haggis - 2nd - Sep/11 with Hugh Robinson

Robbo1 - Lead - Sep/11 with Jen Robinson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/11

philboy - Lead - 28/Jul/11 with bisanth

not sure facing right was easier, Liam just walked up the curved bit!
JamieSparkes - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/11 with Ally Rocke, Liam Ingram

Easier to make progress on the arete and rest in the chimney rather than thrutching all the way.
Liam Ingram - 2nd O/S - 13/Jul/11 with Jamie Sparkes

Brown - Solo O/S - 29/Jan/11 with Solo

walts4 - 2011

David Smith - 2011

PAJames - 2011

PAJames - 2011

PAJames - 2011

PAJames - 2011

Great fun!
slacky - Lead O/S - 07/Nov/10 with Andes

Hidden - Lead - 17/Aug/10

Sam Simpson - Solo O/S - 16/Aug/10

Hidden - Solo O/S - 15/Aug/10

Fun times.
Andrew Barker - Solo O/S - 29/Jul/10 with Cat Black

spun round and exited on my front, good traditional fun, no hands no feet rest at one point truly wedged in!
Graeme Hammond - Solo O/S - 23/May/10

climbingVet - AltLd O/S - May/10

peter myers - 2nd - Apr/10

Hidden - Solo O/S - 2010

Danny Crump - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/09 with Dave Delarre

Bernie Wylde - Lead - 05/Jul/09

Steve J P - 2nd - 05/Jul/09 with BW

Hidden - TR O/S - 25/May/09

rob wmc - TR O/S - 25/May/09 with Petar & Alan

Hardcore Howlett - Lead O/S - 23/May/09 with Vanessa Buth

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/Apr/09

Sarah Bough - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/09 with Dan Burbridge

keith leonard - 2009

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Oct/08

lowersharpnose - Solo O/S - 27/Sep/08

Hidden - 23/Aug/08

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 15/Aug/08

I feel I missed out all the fun. I faced left and walked up the slab at the top instead of offwidthing. I feel a bit dirty :o
victim of mathematics - 2nd O/S - 15/Aug/08 with Lizzie

Comedy grovelling. Colin followed as well
popebenedictus - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/08 with Lizzie (Flicka)

scrat - 2nd - Aug/08

feilx - Solo O/S - 11/Jun/08

alek - Lead O/S - 31/May/08 with Neil Mackie

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 31/May/08

Laurence Everitt - 2nd O/S - 31/May/08 with Tommy B

Alkis - TR O/S - 15/Apr/08 with Nathanael Booker

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Feb/08

Really good route! Very awkward, with a very interesting body jam on your back (although Andy did it on his front somehow). The words 'beached' and 'whale' spring to mind. Would like to lead it next.
Jeronimo - 2nd O/S - 15/Feb/08 with Andy Winters

Hidden - 2008

feilx - Solo O/S - 21/Oct/07

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Sep/07

Dan Leach - 2nd O/S - 03/Jun/07 with Ian Atkins

Hidden - Solo rpt - 02/Jun/07

Hilarious. For best effect solo it with loads of people around so they can laugh as you squirm up the top slab on your back, half in the crack and half hanging out.
climbingpixie - Solo - 02/Jun/07

ChrisJD - 2nd - 03/May/07 with AlB

craig matheson - Solo - Apr/07

Hidden - 2007

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Solo O/S - 06/Aug/06

robgilchrist - May/06

My first ever climb at Stanage, thought I'd do a nice easy VDiff to warm up - How wrong I was.... ('96 Stanage Guide)
JuneBob - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/06 with Alison

Pete Graham - Solo - 2006

Nicos - Solo O/S - 12/Dec/05 with solo

Hidden - Solo - Dec/05

dannyboy83 - Solo O/S - Oct/05

WRMusall - 2nd - 24/Sep/05 with Charlie G

Amusing!
Si dH - 2nd O/S - 14/Sep/05 with Tom Lambert

Tough route, happy to be seconding!
SecretSquirrel - Lead O/S - Aug/05 with Ben

Rampikino - Lead - 23/Apr/05 with Rob Wilson & Blond Mark

SteveM - 2nd - 10/Apr/05 with Keith

Tobias at Home - 2005

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Sep/04

adam carless - Solo O/S - 2004

Mark Stitson (ULGMC) - 2nd - 06/Dec/03

GPN - Lead - Nov/03 with Andy Warner

DerwentDiluted - Solo - 29/Jun/02

Jon Greengrass - 2002

Hidden - 2002

Dave Toseland - 2002

Hidden - Solo O/S - 19/Aug/00

Hidden - Solo - 19/Aug/00

Katie Weston - 2nd - Jul/00

Rock Fairy - 2nd - 2000

Hidden - Solo O/S - May/99

After watching a lass (Havin been told it would be a nice first S lead) fail to get two moves off the ground it just had to done. I think any other S on the whole of Stanage would have been easier!
rocktigger - Lead O/S - 1999 with Clare

Paul-Michael - 2nd O/S - 26/Sep/98 with David Jupp

MONKEY78 - Solo - May/98 with Tim Stallard

craig h - Solo rpt - Mar/98

craig h - Solo O/S - 18/Nov/95

ChrisJD - Solo - 05/Nov/95

Hidden - Lead - 1995

rurp - 1995

atom - 2nd - 26/Sep/93 with Sheila Ellison

Iain Thow - Solo - 07/May/91

Andy Say - Lead - 01/Oct/89

Hidden - Solo - 03/May/89

tapley - 22/Jun/88

BRUCESTRAC - 1988 with Chris Cracknell,Various

johnny20whales - Solo - 06/Jul/85

GordonHart - Solo O/S - 1985

Dave Musgrove - Solo - 18/Apr/76 with Tim Leach, Dennis Gray

mikej - Solo - 23/Feb/74

Dave Musgrove - Lead - 10/Oct/71

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
phil.cheeseman

Voting
Total votes cast 72
hard VS0 of 25
VS0 of 25
easy VS1 of 25
hard HS1 of 25
HS8 of 25
easy HS4 of 25
hard S11 of 25
S0 of 25
easy S0 of 25
hard 5a0 of 24
5a0 of 24
easy 5a0 of 24
hard 4c0 of 24
4c6 of 24
easy 4c1 of 24
hard 4b16 of 24
4b1 of 24
easy 4b0 of 24
3 Stars3 of 23
2 Stars12 of 23
1 Star6 of 23
0 Stars2 of 23
Bag of .....0 of 23
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