Rockfax Description
Follow either of the previous climbs, but cross the roof rightwards via a thin flake to a tough exit - E1 5b in English. © Rockfax

FA. Clive Jones 1977

Ticklists: Stanage E1 Challenge (1989 Guide), Pete's 150 Peak Extremes.

gavinpeach 23/May Lead dnf

Bailed. Got the heel hook and reached for the break but couldn't get myself to commit to the final pull. Seems a toe hook helps but it's something I missed.

with Andy
andy.smythe 23/May 2nd
WillDoyle 31/May/14 Lead O/S
rustaldo 11/May/14 Lead O/S

Really hard until you find the toe-hook

Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
bede.west 23/Nov/13 Lead O/S

Awesome! better than expected should be the main route of the 3

Hidden 29/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Sep/13 Lead O/S
masa-alpin 09/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Interesting and committing!

with David F
Haydn Jones 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S

fantastic route, if it was 30ft higher would have been 3stars

with deacon, duncan
JamieSparkes 19/Aug/13 2nd dog

got hell-toe in wrong. nearly broke my foot. very stuck and had to be hauled out by Nick. oops.

with Nick
Nick1812P 19/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Jamie
Andy Peak 1 20/Jul/13 Lead
with Andrew Deckon
bclifton ??/2013 Lead
dannyboy83 20/Oct/12 Solo O/S
with Katie, Leona
Mr Wild 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Gudge ?/Sep/12 2nd dog
with Cliff Shasby
barni 05/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Ami
soph 05/Jul/12 2nd
jwpil 24/Jun/12 2nd O/S
with Deacon
deacondeacon 24/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hardcore Pat 26/Mar/12 Lead dog
with Sir William of pettitsmith
tom.e 23/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Jonny Nick 15/Oct/11 2nd O/S

Mega moves over the lip! All in the toe hook.

Ahab ?/Jul/11 Lead O/S
JRae 08/May/11 Lead
thomasadixon 08/May/11 Lead O/S

Good fun

with Johnny, Mike, Alan
Reaver2k 08/May/11 2nd
davidgent 16/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Joe Prinold, Jonny Bull
Hidden 16/Apr/11 2nd O/S
jonnybull 14/Apr/11 Lead dog

Got pumped at the lip, fell once, then a tough leg-straightening move in the heel-toe lock.

with Joe P
w.pettet-smith ?/Apr/11 -

hvs bollocks! a wonderful udge though. classic stuff.

RFWilkie 26/Mar/11 2nd O/S
with Mark
uphillnow ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -
robertmctague ??/2011 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Dec/10 -
Boj S 02/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Ewan Russell 02/Oct/10 Lead RP

Ground Up 2nd go. Faffed loads weighted the rope needlessly!

with Alec
HamishD 02/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with chris burn
APRS 02/Oct/10 2nd dnf
Phil Jennings 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S
AndyL 29/Aug/10 Lead β
JamieSparkes 29/Aug/10 2nd RP
Ketu 23/Jun/10 2nd rpt
Graeme Hammond 23/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Did the right hand start first go after not wanting to commit to the left direct one in the heat so jumped off but my foot got stuck on the ledge and I landed a bit awkwardly but good spotting by rob kept me off the ground. Cool no hands position on the lip (didn't really feel like a rest as my foot was slipping out of the leg bar so I only let go briefly). desperately hard exit but pleased to do it with style. currently HVS 5a on ukc is a joke!

with Rob
Adam Potter 13/Jun/10 Lead rpt
drcorbasisgod 09/May/10 Lead O/S
Dogmusher 09/May/10 2nd
with chris parson
Hidden 27/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Pete Graham 18/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Ben Dorey, James Fleming
Hidden 16/Apr/10 Lead dog
Hidden 11/Apr/10 2nd
BrettB ?/Apr/10 Lead
Hidden ??/2010 2nd β
james999 ??/2010 2nd
goi.ashmore 06/Sep/09 Lead β
with Arnaud Garcon
AsleepOnBelay 09/Aug/09 2nd dog

Strewth! Went okay once I stopped trying to pull and got my entire leg in the horizontal break above the heel hook ledge.

with Ross
quiffhanger 09/Aug/09 Lead
Ketu 05/Jul/09 2nd O/S
with Charles M
cem 05/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Rob Truckle
Hidden 13/Apr/09 Lead
danm 05/Apr/09 2nd
with Sion
Hidden 05/Apr/09 Lead
Hidden 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S
ilikemonkys 15/Mar/09 -
with Rob emery
skittles 15/Mar/09 2nd O/S

Definitely not 5a, at least 5b, maybe even a bit harder.

kingholmesy ??/2009 2nd O/S
with Andy S
Sal37 ??/2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Nov/08 Lead dnf
swoosh 28/Sep/08 Lead
with Jamie Armatage
Hidden 18/Aug/08 2nd O/S
Dan 85 17/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Niall
Hidden 17/Aug/08 2nd β
Hidden 09/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Apharri ?/Jun/08 2nd
with Andre Hedger
TomHaigh 23/May/08 Lead O/S
with Jon Winter
Nicos 19/May/08 Lead O/S
Ian Parnell 12/May/08 2nd
with Jon Winter
mic_b 02/May/08 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
Mick B 23/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Rick Asher
Hidden 10/Jun/07 -
Hidden 21/Oct/06 2nd
Pythonist 29/Jun/06 2nd O/S
with Chris Jennions
Ropeboy 30/May/05 Lead
Hidden ??/2004 Lead
Roget 13/Oct/01 Lead O/S
with jon
Hidden 22/May/01 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 -
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
Jon Read ??/1997 Lead O/S
nai ??/1995 Lead
Hidden 09/Oct/94 Lead
Stoney Boy 12/May/94 Lead O/S
with Phil Cundy
mikedelderfield 01/May/93 2nd O/S
with Sven
Hidden ?/May/91 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Oct/89 Lead
Rob Davies 02/Jul/89 2nd
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Ciderslider, BenFitzG, JanBella, Jay J
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 33
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 33
Votes cast 27
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set