There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
Follow either of the previous climbs, but cross the roof rightwards via a thin flake to a tough exit - E1 5b in English. © Rockfax
FA. Clive Jones 1977.
Stanage E1 Challenge (1989 Guide) , Pete's 150 Peak Extremes , Wrong grade routes
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Pythonist | 17 Jul, 2006 |
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βeta: I would think most people make the mistake of trying to start up the arete, rather than the proper start to the right. Easy lower climbing followed by good gear and a fun no-hands rest using a toe jam over the roof! No harder than HVS 5a done properly. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I would think most people make the mistake of trying to start up the arete, rather than the proper start to the right. Easy lower climbing followed by good gear and a fun no-hands rest using a toe jam over the roof! No harder than HVS 5a done properly. |
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Ropeboy | 20 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: A tricky little number, must be worth 5b | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: A tricky little number, must be worth 5b |
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Short&Savage | 1 Jun, 2003 |
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βeta: Think the guide book gives this 5b technical - felt right for its grade. Considering gear is a little sprase (one blue alien) on the actual roof think the route is about e1. Really nice climbing anyway. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Think the guide book gives this 5b technical - felt right for its grade. Considering gear is a little sprase (one blue alien) on the actual roof think the route is about e1. Really nice climbing anyway. |
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Stanage Plantation)