A direct on Congo Corner with good rests between the hard moves and low in the grade. Climb Congo Corner to where it heads off left. Then go through the bulges, on creaky flakes, to where a swing left allows you to join Congo Corner again just below its upper crux. Finish up this. © Rockfax
FA. Chris Craggs 1974
Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each, Work Hard, Play Hard, Ultimate E1 ticklist, Tick List for 2015/2016.
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
Awesome climb. Started on Congo Corner HVS 5b and saw this above and couldn't resist trying it.
Great mantel move
|scott quinn||03/Oct||2nd O/S||
Steep and juggy, very cool
Great moves between good rests
|James Oakes||01/Oct||Lead O/S|
Total cock up, got through the hard bit then fannyed about trying to get a cam in - should have done one more move up and it was over - hey, ho
|nick ferro||13/Sep||2nd rpt||
Hard work. Had to have a sit down on the ledge in between doing the pumpy bottom and middle sections.
Simon lead Congo Corner, i came direct with approach shoes on. Still in training! The link is an easy 2nd but a hard lead, due to strength required for pro placement!
Simon Perry Bowline
|Will Mortimer||05/Sep||Lead O/S||
Favourite E1 of all time! A climb of three stories!
Fell of this twice last year so good to get it done. I made it hard. Thanks for the encouragement Nigel. I needed it !
Sport-climbed on Huw's gear
I thought this was nails. Although with rests every move is more or less 5b. Though I did miss a few tricks when I watched someone else climb it. I did the start as pure hand crack and missed the jugs on the face. Top was run out too!
Amazing route with big holds on steep terrain!
Too tired at the end of the day. Finished up Congo
|Jamie Everitt||11/Jul||2nd O/S|
Mark, bill farmer
Great climb, despite only a few metres of independent climbing from Congo Corner, it has a different character altogether. The overhang is very juggy with good gear immediately below. Would like to climb again, just to be smoother and less anxious - no nasty surprises.
|Nick Wallis||15/May||Lead O/S||
|john lynch||13/May||Lead O/S||
Harder than I expected it to be
Good to come back and walk up this!
Bottom felt hard 5b, top two thirds are lovely.
|Sam McCarthy||14/Mar||2nd O/S|
|Bernie L||14/Mar||Lead O/S|
Have done the start before while doing CC. Really nice route, enjoyed it more then FBD. Left my big gear in my bag so ended up having a bit of a run out at the top...
Gutted I didn't get it clean. Got up the first bit clean but couldn't hold on on the overhang when my foot came off :-( Great climb.
|Wine and climb||??/2015||2nd O/S|
Had climbed it on second ta few weeks before. As ever, I found the start to be the hardest bit.
|Jim Slater||05/Oct/14||Lead O/S|
|Jules Lane||05/Oct/14||2nd O/S||
Mynydd Dave Crowther
Great climb all round. Massive jugs through the overhang. Found the start easier than when I did Congo Corner last year.
|Ash Sayers||03/Oct/14||Lead O/S|
bit tricky getting on to the ledge but then again i suck at mantles
|Tom Redmond||?/Oct/14||Lead O/S||
|nick ferro||28/Sep/14||Lead O/S||
Once I worked out you had to go left it was easy enough. Good fun.
|nick ferro||28/Sep/14||2nd rpt||
Pumpy on the traverse. Really good route
Felt pretty easy today
|Jake Young||16/Aug/14||2nd rpt||
Ondrea, Alex Banks
two falls ! TOO MUCH FOR ME TODAY
|Tim W||05/Jul/14||Lead O/S||
Cat, Matthew Thomson
tim wilkinson, cat mckenna
|Sarah Black||05/Jul/14||Lead dnf||
Well the E1 bit was easy and brilliant fun but I couldn't reach the break where it meets back up with the HVS so downclimbed back through the crux to escape! Vexing.
Lovely climb, good absorbing jamming on lower crack, fun monkey business on flakes, and rounded slightly bold upper section.
felt a bit runout after the roof!
|Jimbo C||21/May/14||Lead O/S||
A very, very good route.
got too pumped messing around on the overhang so retreated onto congo corner. less faffing next time!
Took a 20ft lob after missing the grab for the ledge above the roof - quite exhilarating! Got back on and finished it but found the top wall quite bold. I did manage to wiggle in a wire at full stretch from the ledge, but the short won't be so fortunate. Excellent route.
Fell on the start 2nding.
very poor gear. something to learn from
more balancy than pumpy. soft.
|Mike Hegarty||30/Mar/14||Lead O/S||
|Toby Dunn||30/Mar/14||Solo rpt|
|Ollie B||22/Feb/14||Lead O/S||
|David Sherratt||??/2014||Lead O/S|
|Andy Peak 1||24/Oct/13||2nd||
Really lovely route. Way less daunting when on it than when looking up from below
|Gabe Oliver||08/Sep/13||Lead O/S||
superb route! seems a bit daunting but great bouldery committing moves on bomber holds and then a tentative series of mantles up top!
Seems harder than last time! Is it the age, or the 32 years since I last did it?
Anette, Dave Fooks
Got pumped silly and had to rest on the rope.
|Sam Simpson||04/Jun/13||Lead O/S|
|Stoney Boy||19/May/13||Lead O/S||
|belay bunny turned bad||30/Apr/13||2nd||
|Will Hunt||02/Mar/13||Lead β||
On pre-placed gear from Gareth's go.
mr g walters
|Michael Allday||11/Nov/12||Lead O/S|
|Wayne S||20/Oct/12||2nd O/S|
Broome led. Tried to go direct and ended up sitting on the rope for ages.
|Harry Thorpe||06/Oct/12||Lead O/S|
Top route with a bit of everything. Wouldn't complain at the HVS it's given in the BMC guide
What a route! one of the best at Stanage, and thats saying something.
|Haydn Jones||23/Aug/12||Lead O/S|
Better line than congo corner...
Struggled up the initial crack on poor slopers after managing to miss all the holds at the top some how!
Was trying to save my energy for Tippler direct and was meant to be James lead but he couldn't figure out the crux and got very pumped so in the end he came down and I led the route (mostly on his gear) A nice route with the crux being not quite where you would expect it to be.
had a good go but fell off 3 times.
Chuffed to squeeze in this beauty before the rain settled in for the day. Wasn't feeling amazing after a night in robin hoods cave but pleased to have got up it. Straight down to climbers cafe for the best breakfast of my life after this :)
James Rich, Martin Stanfield, Jack Bradbrook
Briliant route favourite route of the day and the second top50 route of the day. Good jamming at the start to a thrilling finish monkeying threw the overhangs on huge jugs.
Finally completed it without rests or falls, it was a struggle though
SPANKED! Dont know if it was strength, technique or missing something obvious but i fell 3 times from the roof onto a solid hex. One to come back to, maybe after watching someone else do it! Ended up doing Congo corner instead.
amazing, will have to return to complete it no falls. Fell twice on the final flake of the overhangs before reaching the ledge
|Mr Sparkle||23/May/12||Lead O/S||
|David Kay||16/May/12||Lead O/S||
Getting your hands in the right order for the initial crack is a bit tricky, then it's just jug pulling.
just managed to get up it before the rain came in.
Very soggy, properly raining at this point..... Will have to go back, looks great!
Tim Hobby, Pete Staves
|Curly Rich||25/Mar/12||2nd O/S||
Bottom was harder technically but just didn't have the strength after a day climbing on the edge. Shame I didn't get it! Bomber gear though!
Lairig Climbing Club
|Steve Waters, Mynydd||14/Mar/12||Lead||
Superb. Got bomber gear in the vertical crack and then went for it. Fewer moves than I expected got me to the big reach. Thought I might have to pull up on the rounded sloping edge but then found the square cut hold and job done! Thought it was HVS and similar in difficulty and nature to The Sloth.
|Bruce Houston||?/Mar/12||Lead O/S|
|Andy Peak 1||28/Oct/11||Lead||
|Phill Mitch||01/Oct/11||Lead O/S||
fantastic climb, loved every move.
|henry peter jenkins||23/Sep/11||Lead O/S||
sam lowe, paul jones
horrible awkward start
|Matt Cooke||17/Sep/11||Lead β|
Wow, good rests but lots of variation in the climbing. first climb of the trip. start as you mean to go on
Great fun. Feels quite wild going up through the flakes (a few have evidently snapped off), but the gear's pretty good and the moves turn out not to be too hard. Still felt to me liked it deserves an E1, though. If you want to get gear in before doing the mantle, or just after the mantle, you need to have a big cam or two - if you don't I didn't), its really pretty bold.
Stve mc D
Speedy climb lest we may be assaulted by a swarm of midges in case the evening breeze stops.
|Dan Geh||23/Jul/11||Lead O/S||
The mantelshelf move felt scary on pumped arms and no big cams for the break!
Seconded up the direct after Tim led Congo Corner
|belay bunny turned bad||17/Jun/11||Lead O/S|
|Dr Toph||13/Jun/11||Solo β|
Sandra & Pascal
Climbed the top section in the rain.
Looked at Morrisons redoubt as had a little wait. Exhilarating.
(Graham, luke, andy, nats)
really good, sustained HVS really.
|Jake Young||24/May/11||Lead O/S|
My first E1.Thuggy moves, but above good pro. top straightforward, but I struggled on pumped arms.
|Chi Cheng||06/May/11||2nd O/S|
|Rachel Slater||06/May/11||Lead O/S|
marvelous. full body jam.
Pumpy but such a good feeling when you get the good hold! Much much better than congo corner.
Simon, Mike Freeman
Ross, Ed (Andrew Adwards)
|Laurence Everitt||13/Apr/11||Lead O/S|
|adam coxsell||13/Apr/11||2nd rpt|
andy graham, simon bulmer
|Andy Graham||19/Mar/11||Lead O/S||
Simon Bulmer, Mark Almack
Did not have large enough cam for the break late on.
Drying off by the time we got on it.
2nd'ed route for both Tom and Steve
|Martin Davies||16/Oct/10||Lead O/S||
Brilliant moves, soft E1.
|Mr Wild||?/Oct/10||Lead O/S|
|Tony Holdsworth||30/Sep/10||Lead rpt||
Take a big cam for the break next time!
|Alex Winter||17/Sep/10||2nd O/S|
|Si dH||22/Aug/10||Lead O/S||
not much harder than Congo Corner if you go for it. Moves are def easier than on FBD.
Kind of on sight as last time I attempted it I just scurried off to Congo Corner. Excellent climb.
|Liam Ingram||03/Aug/10||2nd dog||
Dont see how this is an easy E1 if Milsoms Minion is considered so.
|dan gibson||03/Aug/10||Solo rpt|
|Mr Tickle||24/Jul/10||Lead O/S||
|Hannes B||17/Jul/10||Lead O/S||
|Matthew Robinson||04/Jun/10||Lead O/S|
A route that makes you feel good!
|Oliver Houston||11/May/10||Lead dog|
|Ian Broome||06/May/10||Lead O/S||
with Tuze a pumpy little number, grudge match for completion this year!
A technical and balancy beginning with a thumping roof climb to follow then a delicate ending makes this a superb climb of great variety! If you can contort your body well enough there's good gear where it counts.
Good but hard climb for my first E1
|Graeme Hammond||29/Aug/09||Lead O/S||
amazing, lets be honest its not really E1 though
|Mike W||18/Aug/09||Lead O/S|
Fantastic climbing on good jugs, above bomber gear! My type of route!
Did a bat hang half way up just for fun.
|gareth scott borthwick||01/Jul/09||Lead dog||
|Gareth Clendinning (UBMC)||16/Jun/09||2nd rpt||
Really good climb, great moves through the roof, safe as houses. On-sight? I've led and seconded Congo Corner, so it's not really on-sight is it?
Had just led Congo Corner so the first crack felt familiar, if not harder for some reason! Then after that, some brilliant roof moves. Would have been worried leading it, gear is bomber if you place it right though. Swing out and left whilst heelhooking the break all the way along, then a big reach up and finish up congo corner. Really nice, maybe one day....
|Gareth Clendinning (UBMC)||18/Sep/08||Lead RP||
|adam coxsell||18/Sep/08||2nd dnf|
A fabulous climb. Well worth the stars, good series of crux moves.
|Matt Shepherd||12/Aug/08||Lead O/S|
|craig d||?/Jun/08||Lead O/S||
One fall after struggling to get previous leaders gear out.
|Mark D||02/May/08||Lead O/S||
|Gareth Clendinning (UBMC)||30/Apr/08||2nd dog||
|Mark Warnett||?/Apr/08||Lead O/S|
First E1. A very stuck cam was a major contributor to me hanging off the rope, but pumped out doing the long crux. A properly good laugh that left my arms no loner functioning.
|Mark Walter||12/Oct/07||Lead dnf|
|Martin Haworth||?/Aug/07||Lead β||
|Thomas Martin||?/Jul/07||Lead β||
|A Crook||05/Jun/07||Lead O/S|
lucky i didn't get the new stanage book till afterwards. it was e1 in my head and that's how i'll remember it ;-) great feeling pulling through the roofs on those huge jugs to the final stretch to the ledge
|andy gravestock||10/Apr/07||Lead O/S||
really good route but getting a bit battered now.
|Alex Mason||05/Feb/07||Lead O/S||
have actually seconded it a long time ago didnt remember it! good route, juggy and soft.
A classic route- surely one of the best on Stanage - varied, great postion and keeps you interested all the way. Shame the first couple of moves are getting a bit polished.
|irish paul||??/2007||Lead O/S||
Vey nice, start is polished but fabulous positions
|Steve Banham||10/Nov/06||Lead rpt||
Beware of wind
|Luke Brooks||26/Sep/06||Lead O/S|
|Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH||02/Jul/06||Lead O/S|
|Owen W-G||02/Jun/06||Lead O/S|
|mel holmes||25/May/06||Lead O/S|
|dan gibson||24/Apr/06||Lead O/S||
Led free 2 years after seconding. Sustained but steady grit thuggery
|Ram MkiV||??/2005||Lead O/S||
|Rik Dawes||??/2005||Lead O/S|
|Brian Rodgers||??/2002||Lead O/S||
|Tim M||??/2000||Lead O/S|
|Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe||??/1999||-|
|Chris Reid||14/Jun/97||Lead O/S|
most recent lead May 2015
Sometime in the 90's
|Obi-Wan is lost...||??/1997||Lead||
|Adam Greenwood||??/1995||Lead O/S||
chris jones, jim
Previously climbed Congo Corner.
|mike bridges||06/Jul/80||2nd O/S|