Rockfax Description
A direct on Congo Corner with good rests between the hard moves and low in the grade. Climb Congo Corner to where it heads off left. Then go through the bulges, on creaky flakes, to where a swing left allows you to join Congo Corner again just below its upper crux. Finish up this. © Rockfax

FA. Chris Craggs 1974

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each, Work Hard, Play Hard, Ultimate E1 ticklist, Tick List for 2015/2016.

chris fox 01/Nov 2nd

clean ascent. good route

Hidden 26/Oct Lead rpt
Hidden 20/Oct Lead
CraigOsborne 17/Oct Lead O/S

Siege tactics

paul79 17/Oct 2nd O/S
greglad 17/Oct -
svdie 12/Oct Lead O/S
jalqazzaz 12/Oct 2nd RP
Hidden 12/Oct Lead
TomatoPro 10/Oct Lead O/S

Awesome climb. Started on Congo Corner HVS 5b and saw this above and couldn't resist trying it.

Hidden 10/Oct 2nd O/S
mynyddresident 04/Oct Lead O/S

Great mantel move

with KP
greenclimb 04/Oct Lead rpt
scott quinn 03/Oct 2nd O/S

Steep and juggy, very cool

Tom.Priestley 03/Oct Lead O/S

Great moves between good rests

James Oakes 01/Oct Lead O/S
Ciderslider 28/Sep Lead dog

Total cock up, got through the hard bit then fannyed about trying to get a cam in - should have done one more move up and it was over - hey, ho

with charley
nick ferro 13/Sep 2nd rpt
with Oli Birkill
Hoyes 13/Sep Lead O/S

Hard work. Had to have a sit down on the ledge in between doing the pumpy bottom and middle sections.

with Ali I
Hidden 06/Sep 2nd O/S
Will Mortimer 05/Sep Lead O/S

Favourite E1 of all time! A climb of three stories!

Hidden 05/Sep 2nd O/S
BTphonehome 29/Aug 2nd rpt
with Tony
tmawer 29/Aug Lead O/S
with Bram
drewish 24/Aug 2nd O/S
with SteveE9
bantamdave 23/Aug Lead RP

Fell of this twice last year so good to get it done. I made it hard. Thanks for the encouragement Nigel. I needed it !

with Nigel
benlatham07 15/Aug Lead O/S
ned_85 15/Aug 2nd
Hidden 15/Aug Lead O/S
hipyhop 15/Aug Lead β

Sport-climbed on Huw's gear

with dunnyg
Richardlake 15/Aug 2nd O/S
will_lake 15/Aug Lead O/S
ned_85 09/Aug Lead
Senna 09/Aug 2nd
with Ned
Kemics 09/Aug Lead O/S

I thought this was nails. Although with rests every move is more or less 5b. Though I did miss a few tricks when I watched someone else climb it. I did the start as pure hand crack and missed the jugs on the face. Top was run out too!

with Mel
Hidden 09/Aug Lead β
Dave Rumney 09/Aug Lead
with Tanya Milner
xiangoh 02/Aug Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug 2nd β
mattleepianist ?/Aug 2nd
penny.orr 31/Jul 2nd O/S

Amazing route with big holds on steep terrain!

Mowglee 25/Jul Lead dog

Too tired at the end of the day. Finished up Congo

with Ali
Hidden 15/Jul Lead O/S
rajeshwarbisht 12/Jul 2nd dog
FlavioL1989 11/Jul Lead O/S
Jamie Everitt 11/Jul 2nd O/S
Hidden 04/Jul Lead dnf
Hidden 03/Jul Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jun Lead G/U
kermit_uk 27/Jun Lead O/S
with Michelle
rurp 23/Jun Lead O/S
with Mark, bill farmer
harry_lewis 18/Jun Lead β
Matt Groom 18/Jun Lead
with Harry Lewis
andyjirvin 10/Jun Lead O/S

Great climb, despite only a few metres of independent climbing from Congo Corner, it has a different character altogether. The overhang is very juggy with good gear immediately below. Would like to climb again, just to be smoother and less anxious - no nasty surprises.

Hidden 07/Jun Lead O/S
drysori 16/May Lead
with Everyone!
Nick Wallis 15/May Lead O/S
with Tom Holdsworth
john lynch 13/May Lead O/S
with johan
The Reaper 13/May Lead O/S


Scooter Young 10/May Lead
admackie 07/May Lead
with dan
Hidden ?/May -
Neal Jobling 21/Apr 2nd
with Bryan Stevens
Teappleby 17/Apr Lead

Harder than I expected it to be

Jackwd 07/Apr Lead β

Good to come back and walk up this!

charley 07/Apr 2nd rpt
with JackD
M_Robinson 27/Mar 2nd rpt
spidermonkey09 27/Mar Lead O/S

Bottom felt hard 5b, top two thirds are lovely.

BTphonehome 22/Mar Lead O/S
kasha_gregson 22/Mar 2nd dnf
with Bram
Sam McCarthy 14/Mar 2nd O/S
Bernie L 14/Mar Lead O/S
ashtond6 13/Mar Lead rpt

So good

charley 10/Mar Lead O/S

Have done the start before while doing CC. Really nice route, enjoyed it more then FBD. Left my big gear in my bag so ended up having a bit of a run out at the top...

with Ange
valentinesbabe 10/Mar 2nd dog

Gutted I didn't get it clean. Got up the first bit clean but couldn't hold on on the overhang when my foot came off :-( Great climb.

Louishmouis ?/Mar Lead
with Felix
andybirtwistle ??/2015 -
Wine and climb ??/2015 2nd O/S
gheadley27 ??/2015 Lead O/S
phil64 ??/2015 -
nathanlee 06/Dec/14 Lead O/S


with Katy Whittacker
kyaizawa 09/Nov/14 Lead O/S
ralphio 24/Oct/14 Lead rpt

Had climbed it on second ta few weeks before. As ever, I found the start to be the hardest bit.

with Simon
Gudge 22/Oct/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 12/Oct/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 12/Oct/14 2nd
M_Robinson 05/Oct/14 2nd O/S
Jim Slater 05/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Jules Lane 05/Oct/14 2nd O/S
with Mynydd Dave Crowther
ralphio 03/Oct/14 2nd

Great climb all round. Massive jugs through the overhang. Found the start easier than when I did Congo Corner last year.

with Ash
Ash Sayers 03/Oct/14 Lead O/S
jmills94 ?/Oct/14 2nd

bit tricky getting on to the ledge but then again i suck at mantles

with loz
Tom Redmond ?/Oct/14 Lead O/S

awesome route!

with joe cossey
Senna 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S
nick ferro 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Once I worked out you had to go left it was easy enough. Good fun.

with Sean Chu
nick ferro 28/Sep/14 2nd rpt
with Sean Chu
climberchristy 13/Sep/14 Lead rpt

Pumpy on the traverse. Really good route

with Ben Cole
mark4344 12/Sep/14 Lead dog
with Matt Payne
pete40 07/Sep/14 Lead β
Hidden 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Jaysquared69 31/Aug/14 2nd
with Olly P
felixizzy 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Dan
ChrisBrooke 22/Aug/14 Lead rpt

Felt pretty easy today

with Duncan Bell
Jake Young 16/Aug/14 2nd rpt
with Ondrea, Alex Banks
papashango 09/Aug/14 2nd rpt
with Elliot
Shawty 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Conor
tsjx 03/Aug/14 2nd
with John Mc
ashtond6 13/Jul/14 Lead O/S
bantamdave 12/Jul/14 Lead dnf


with Nigel
Hidden 12/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Tim W 05/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Cat, Matthew Thomson
arthur_de_briton 05/Jul/14 2nd
with tim wilkinson, cat mckenna
Sarah Black 05/Jul/14 Lead dnf

Well the E1 bit was easy and brilliant fun but I couldn't reach the break where it meets back up with the HVS so downclimbed back through the crux to escape! Vexing.

DannyK 04/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with chrislgk, Katie
RFWilkie 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Mark
Thinker01 29/Jun/14 2nd O/S
robman 24/Jun/14 Lead O/S
peter.ravenscroft27 23/Jun/14 2nd
manwithacam 21/Jun/14 Lead

Lovely climb, good absorbing jamming on lower crack, fun monkey business on flakes, and rounded slightly bold upper section.

with Joris
Hidden 21/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Joris.Roulleau 21/Jun/14 2nd O/S
mrteale 17/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with MrBlond
MrBIond 17/Jun/14 Lead
papashango 08/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Jasmin
shaunhumphreys 03/Jun/14 Lead O/S

felt a bit runout after the roof!

with calum
Hidden 03/Jun/14 2nd dog
NDD 02/Jun/14 Solo
Hidden 31/May/14 TR
Kirill 31/May/14 Lead β
with Mari Ijas
Jimbo C 21/May/14 Lead O/S

A very, very good route.

with Chris, Will
dean79 18/May/14 Lead dnf

got too pumped messing around on the overhang so retreated onto congo corner. less faffing next time!

Merlin 03/May/14 Lead dog

Took a 20ft lob after missing the grab for the ledge above the roof - quite exhilarating! Got back on and finished it but found the top wall quite bold. I did manage to wiggle in a wire at full stretch from the ledge, but the short won't be so fortunate. Excellent route.

with Alex Elliot
alexelliott 03/May/14 2nd dog

Fell on the start 2nding.

with Merlin
oread 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S

very poor gear. something to learn from

WillDoyle 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Apr/14 2nd
Nick1812P 01/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Ben
benkelsey 01/Apr/14 2nd O/S

more balancy than pumpy. soft.

Mike Hegarty 30/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Carolyn
Toby Dunn 30/Mar/14 Solo rpt
mike lawrence? 12/Mar/14 2nd
with luca
amccann 11/Mar/14 Solo O/S
Ollie B 22/Feb/14 Lead O/S
with S.Bennett
Palmer 16/Feb/14 Lead dnf
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
David Sherratt ??/2014 Lead O/S
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
Andy Peak 1 24/Oct/13 2nd

In trainers

with phill ukc
Lenny 19/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with James. D
Hidden 05/Oct/13 2nd O/S
hlegge 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Really lovely route. Way less daunting when on it than when looking up from below

with Dan Gyi
DanielGyi 05/Oct/13 2nd rpt
Stroppy 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Sep/13 2nd
Hidden 15/Sep/13 Lead rpt
leeds_belle 08/Sep/13 2nd dog
Hidden 08/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Gabe Oliver 08/Sep/13 Lead O/S

superb route! seems a bit daunting but great bouldery committing moves on bomber holds and then a tentative series of mantles up top!

beneole ?/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Aug/13 2nd dnf
stuart34 21/Aug/13 Lead O/S


Matthew Robinson 17/Aug/13 2nd
with David
Hidden ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/13 Lead
charlesmfrench 15/Jul/13 Lead rpt

Seems harder than last time! Is it the age, or the 32 years since I last did it?

with Anette, Dave Fooks
claregardiner 11/Jul/13 2nd
Toby Dunn 05/Jul/13 Solo
seanlikeskites 30/Jun/13 Lead dnf
marcduhig 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Iain G
oodie72 29/Jun/13 Lead dog
DanielGyi 21/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Dom Pearce
Monkey_Alan 15/Jun/13 Lead dog

Got pumped silly and had to rest on the rope.

Hidden 09/Jun/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 09/Jun/13 Lead dnf
Toby Dunn 06/Jun/13 Solo
Sam Simpson 04/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Nathanie1 27/May/13 Lead O/S
Stoney Boy 19/May/13 Lead O/S

Never E1

with Mark Buskwood
Hidden 19/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/May/13 2nd
belay bunny turned bad 30/Apr/13 2nd
with Drew
Hidden 30/Apr/13 2nd rpt
Hidden 30/Apr/13 Lead O/S
gavinpeach 20/Apr/13 Lead dnf
Hidden 06/Mar/13 -
Mowglee 02/Mar/13 Lead dnf
Mowglee 02/Mar/13 2nd rpt
Will Hunt 02/Mar/13 Lead β

On pre-placed gear from Gareth's go.

with Gareth Uglow
drysori 06/Jan/13 Lead O/S
with Andy Gray
Hidden ??/2013 Lead O/S
clmbr 27/Dec/12 Lead O/S
with mr g walters
Michael Allday 11/Nov/12 Lead O/S
BRoe 02/Nov/12 Lead O/S
Wayne S 20/Oct/12 2nd O/S
with Dom
dannyboy83 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Katie, Leona
petellis 20/Oct/12 2nd dog

Broome led. Tried to go direct and ended up sitting on the rope for ages.

with Caroline, Broomy, The short fuse, Bex
thetradlad 06/Oct/12 2nd rpt
Harry Thorpe 06/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Sep/12 Solo O/S
martroberts 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Top route with a bit of everything. Wouldn't complain at the HVS it's given in the BMC guide

roberto18 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S

What a route! one of the best at Stanage, and thats saying something.

with Tom Nickols
Goodstuff 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Haydn Jones 23/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with deacon
BillyRidal 08/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Better line than congo corner...

redjerry ?/Aug/12 Lead
Gudge ?/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Dave Sheratt
helenstuart 28/Jul/12 Lead dog
with Mike
climbinmunkey 28/Jul/12 2nd β
with Helen
shed_hed 27/Jul/12 2nd O/S

Struggled up the initial crack on poor slopers after managing to miss all the holds at the top some how!

with Alun Freem
darlolad 25/Jul/12 TR
Hidden 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Quarryboy 14/Jul/12 Lead β

Was trying to save my energy for Tippler direct and was meant to be James lead but he couldn't figure out the crux and got very pumped so in the end he came down and I led the route (mostly on his gear) A nice route with the crux being not quite where you would expect it to be.

JamesRich 14/Jul/12 Lead dnf

had a good go but fell off 3 times.

Stanners 13/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Chuffed to squeeze in this beauty before the rain settled in for the day. Wasn't feeling amazing after a night in robin hoods cave but pleased to have got up it. Straight down to climbers cafe for the best breakfast of my life after this :)

with James Rich, Martin Stanfield, Jack Bradbrook
Stanley 13/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Hannes B 10/Jul/12 2nd
with Aidan
Dale ?/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Briliant route favourite route of the day and the second top50 route of the day. Good jamming at the start to a thrilling finish monkeying threw the overhangs on huge jugs.

with Tim
thetradlad 25/Jun/12 Lead O/S
yarrow 25/Jun/12 2nd O/S
seanlikeskites 24/Jun/12 Lead dnf
alexjz 18/Jun/12 Lead RP

Finally completed it without rests or falls, it was a struggle though

with Matt Hilton-Webb
Hidden 12/Jun/12 2nd
pabbage 06/Jun/12 Lead O/S
AlexxelA 04/Jun/12 Lead dnf

SPANKED! Dont know if it was strength, technique or missing something obvious but i fell 3 times from the roof onto a solid hex. One to come back to, maybe after watching someone else do it! Ended up doing Congo corner instead.

alexjz 04/Jun/12 Lead dog

amazing, will have to return to complete it no falls. Fell twice on the final flake of the overhangs before reaching the ledge

with Matt Hilton-Webb
jev ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Keir, Sian
WayneR ?/Jun/12 2nd O/S
gavinpeach 30/May/12 Lead dnf
with Max Pendleton
Mr Sparkle 23/May/12 Lead O/S
with Chris Taylor
David Kay 16/May/12 Lead O/S

Getting your hands in the right order for the initial crack is a bit tricky, then it's just jug pulling.

with Mel Michon
Hidden 16/May/12 2nd
Hidden 06/May/12 2nd dog
mark4344 02/May/12 2nd
with Matt Payne
hailtryfan ?/May/12 Lead O/S
kenneM ?/May/12 2nd
with Henry Crosby
esther ?/May/12 Lead
Theeni 28/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Mike Kennedy
tom.e 24/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Clare Muir
timmyhobby 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S

just managed to get up it before the rain came in.

Ceridwen 08/Apr/12 2nd dnf

Very soggy, properly raining at this point..... Will have to go back, looks great!

with Tim Hobby, Pete Staves
Hidden 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Curly Rich 25/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with GMC JohnP
Hidden 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Jackwd 24/Mar/12 Lead dnf

Bottom was harder technically but just didn't have the strength after a day climbing on the edge. Shame I didn't get it! Bomber gear though!

samwillo 17/Mar/12 2nd
with Lairig Climbing Club
Hidden 17/Mar/12 Lead
deacondeacon 15/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Mar/12 2nd
Steve Waters, Mynydd 14/Mar/12 Lead

Superb. Got bomber gear in the vertical crack and then went for it. Fewer moves than I expected got me to the big reach. Thought I might have to pull up on the rounded sloping edge but then found the square cut hold and job done! Thought it was HVS and similar in difficulty and nature to The Sloth.

with Richard Waltham
jake-jones 11/Mar/12 Lead β
tomhull 10/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Chris Plant
Hidden ?/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Bruce Houston ?/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Trevera 26/Feb/12 2nd
Hidden ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 Solo
robgixer ??/2012 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 19/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Julesthe1st 29/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Mike
DannyK 29/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with pep
Andy Peak 1 28/Oct/11 Lead
with nelil
shouter 24/Oct/11 Lead
jmhood 24/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Rachel
hilty 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
dmoir 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Gid
gidmord 15/Oct/11 2nd β
with dmoir
bigdrew 09/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Mark R
Phill Mitch 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S

fantastic climb, loved every move.

with LMC
Brown 29/Sep/11 Lead
with Lilifa
Hidden 27/Sep/11 Lead O/S
henry peter jenkins 23/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with sam lowe, paul jones
chris_B 18/Sep/11 Lead

horrible awkward start

louby 18/Sep/11 2nd
Matt Cooke 17/Sep/11 Lead β
with Rosh
stvredmond 17/Aug/11 Lead

Wow, good rests but lots of variation in the climbing. first climb of the trip. start as you mean to go on

Helnorris 17/Aug/11 2nd
np134 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with S. Coatman
James_D 13/Aug/11 Lead dnf
with John
djones66 13/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Great fun. Feels quite wild going up through the flakes (a few have evidently snapped off), but the gear's pretty good and the moves turn out not to be too hard. Still felt to me liked it deserves an E1, though. If you want to get gear in before doing the mantle, or just after the mantle, you need to have a big cam or two - if you don't I didn't), its really pretty bold.

with Stve mc D
philippe ?/Aug/11 Lead
masa-alpin 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Speedy climb lest we may be assaulted by a swarm of midges in case the evening breeze stops.

with Jo B
Dan Geh 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S

The mantelshelf move felt scary on pumped arms and no big cams for the break!

tgeh 23/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with dan geh
Hidden 15/Jul/11 Lead
berry 15/Jul/11 2nd dnf
Hidden 15/Jul/11 Lead O/S
joemallia 07/Jul/11 2nd rpt

Seconded up the direct after Tim led Congo Corner

Hidden 22/Jun/11 Lead O/S
cobweb 18/Jun/11 Lead
with mick dowling
Hidden 17/Jun/11 2nd O/S
belay bunny turned bad 17/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with loundsy
Dr Toph 13/Jun/11 Solo β
Hannes B 13/Jun/11 2nd
with Sandra & Pascal
jwpil 12/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Climbed the top section in the rain.

with Ben
petellis 05/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Chriswallis2 05/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Pete, Jenny
howifeel 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Looked at Morrisons redoubt as had a little wait. Exhilarating.

with (Graham, luke, andy, nats)
al123 28/May/11 Lead O/S

really good, sustained HVS really.

Alistair Corbett 28/May/11 2nd
with Al
JRae 24/May/11 Lead
with P Latham
CRiddiford 24/May/11 2nd
Jake Young 24/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/May/11 2nd dnf
Hidden 08/May/11 Solo O/S
mark4344 08/May/11 Lead O/S

My first E1.Thuggy moves, but above good pro. top straightforward, but I struggled on pumped arms.

with Matt Payne
cheeky 07/May/11 2nd O/S
Chi Cheng 06/May/11 2nd O/S
Rachel Slater 06/May/11 Lead O/S
tomthecoolperson 04/May/11 Lead O/S
with Ben 250
ben_250 04/May/11 2nd O/S
with Tom
Hidden 02/May/11 Lead O/S
w.pettet-smith ?/May/11 Lead

marvelous. full body jam.

with jon
ianjfsutcliffe 29/Apr/11 2nd O/S
M_W_Court 29/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Ade7 27/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Stewart
ChrisBrooke 26/Apr/11 2nd
with Duncan Bell
BeccaSnowden 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Pumpy but such a good feeling when you get the good hold! Much much better than congo corner.

with Tom
thomasadixon 25/Apr/11 2nd rpt

Good fun.

with Becca
Hidden 16/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Josephine 16/Apr/11 2nd
with Simon, Mike Freeman
Alex 74 16/Apr/11 2nd
with Ian c
Goose4 14/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Ross, Ed (Andrew Adwards)
Laurence Everitt 13/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Cocky
adam coxsell 13/Apr/11 2nd rpt
davidgent 09/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Andy Parsons
andysroom 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
JulesV 07/Apr/11 Solo rpt
Kyuzo 02/Apr/11 2nd
with Joe Prinold
Hidden 02/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Oliver Houston 29/Mar/11 2nd
markalmack 19/Mar/11 2nd O/S
with andy graham, simon bulmer
Hidden 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Andy Graham 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Simon Bulmer, Mark Almack
mic_b 13/Mar/11 Lead rpt
with Heidi
marcduhig 06/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Did not have large enough cam for the break late on.

with Andrew
PeteH 10/Feb/11 2nd O/S

Drying off by the time we got on it.

westaway 06/Jan/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
mwatson ??/2011 -
Dan Mckinlay ??/2011 -
thebigfriendlymoose ??/2011 -
whitehouse_rhys ??/2011 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Dec/10 -
Hidden 07/Nov/10 -
Gustav 30/Oct/10 2nd O/S
with James H
andy dunn 18/Oct/10 2nd

2nd'ed route for both Tom and Steve

with Tom
hrgcb 17/Oct/10 Lead
Martin Davies 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Brilliant moves, soft E1.

with Ollie Lister
tatz45 11/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Oct/10 2nd β
Hidden 10/Oct/10 Lead O/S
tobydunford 09/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Harry Martin
Mr Wild ?/Oct/10 Lead O/S
TRFrost 30/Sep/10 2nd dog
with D. Smith
Hidden 30/Sep/10 -
Tony Holdsworth 30/Sep/10 Lead rpt

Take a big cam for the break next time!

with Guido
HamishD 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with chris burn
Hidden 24/Sep/10 Lead
Alex Winter 17/Sep/10 2nd O/S
tigertim 17/Sep/10 Lead


Hidden 12/Sep/10 Lead β
Hidden 05/Sep/10 2nd rpt
tigertim 01/Sep/10 Lead O/S
gripped01 ?/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Jim Jarvis
Si dH 22/Aug/10 Lead O/S

not much harder than Congo Corner if you go for it. Moves are def easier than on FBD.

with Tom Lambert
luke2442 20/Aug/10 -
Cake 05/Aug/10 Lead β

Kind of on sight as last time I attempted it I just scurried off to Congo Corner. Excellent climb.

with Angus
Liam Ingram 03/Aug/10 2nd dog

Dont see how this is an easy E1 if Milsoms Minion is considered so.

JamieSparkes 03/Aug/10 Lead O/S

hard work!

dan gibson 03/Aug/10 Solo rpt
Hidden 31/Jul/10 Lead O/S
thomasmouse 25/Jul/10 Lead dog
Hidden 24/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Mr Tickle 24/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Great route!

with davenev
joese7en 23/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Jul/10 Lead β
Pown 19/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hannes B 17/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Tom W
Hidden ?/Jul/10 Lead
Hidden 15/Jun/10 2nd dnf
wirralclimber1984 15/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Matthew Robinson 04/Jun/10 Lead O/S
freddieneame10 ?/Jun/10 2nd

A route that makes you feel good!

joe1979 24/May/10 Lead
Oliver Houston 11/May/10 Lead dog
Ian Broome 06/May/10 Lead O/S
with Ally
mark20 27/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Ahab 26/Apr/10 Lead O/S
NorthernRock 23/Apr/10 Lead dnf

with Tuze a pumpy little number, grudge match for completion this year!

Hidden 18/Apr/10 Lead O/S
garywong 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S
kleinej 17/Apr/10 2nd dog
with Gary
Hidden 15/Apr/10 Lead β
Hidden 05/Apr/10 2nd O/S
RossG ??/2010 -
Sean Kelly ??/2010 -
sgl0jd ??/2010 -
Andrew Barker ??/2010 2nd
with Si
JulesV 09/Nov/09 Solo
Hidden 17/Oct/09 2nd
disturbed_one51 13/Oct/09 2nd
with Wee man
Jonathan Hall 13/Oct/09 Lead
wild_nomad 12/Oct/09 2nd O/S

A technical and balancy beginning with a thumping roof climb to follow then a delicate ending makes this a superb climb of great variety! If you can contort your body well enough there's good gear where it counts.

with John
Hidden 10/Oct/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Oct/09 Lead O/S
highrepute 20/Sep/09 2nd
gordonday 20/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with clive
jehutchings 13/Sep/09 TR dog

Good but hard climb for my first E1

X-tremist 13/Sep/09 TR dog
gregoritos 06/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with John Hall
Hidden 05/Sep/09 Lead β
jonka ?/Sep/09 Lead
with mark
Graeme Hammond 29/Aug/09 Lead O/S

amazing, lets be honest its not really E1 though

with Rob
Mike W 18/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Twisty 12/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Fantastic climbing on good jugs, above bomber gear! My type of route!

willsm11 12/Aug/09 2nd O/S

Did a bat hang half way up just for fun.

with Twisty
davewsargent 03/Aug/09 2nd
jimsrankin ?/Aug/09 Lead
with Liam
Hidden 02/Jul/09 2nd dog
gareth scott borthwick 01/Jul/09 Lead dog
with mat
Hidden 16/Jun/09 Lead O/S
gnc760 16/Jun/09 2nd rpt
with James Kay
smudge 02/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Really good climb, great moves through the roof, safe as houses. On-sight? I've led and seconded Congo Corner, so it's not really on-sight is it?

djp1 02/Jun/09 2nd
with smudge
Hidden 28/May/09 Lead O/S
vanderz 28/May/09 Lead O/S
bigphil 25/May/09 2nd
with Paul Willinson
greenclimb 23/May/09 Lead rpt
with Sarah
ilikemonkys 03/May/09 -
with Carrie
Jeronimo 29/Apr/09 2nd
with sam8oy
sam8oy 29/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Jay
Hidden 26/Apr/09 2nd O/S
thomasadixon 24/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Alan
Reaver2k 24/Apr/09 2nd O/S

Had just led Congo Corner so the first crack felt familiar, if not harder for some reason! Then after that, some brilliant roof moves. Would have been worried leading it, gear is bomber if you place it right though. Swing out and left whilst heelhooking the break all the way along, then a big reach up and finish up congo corner. Really nice, maybe one day....

Adam Booth 22/Apr/09 Lead
with Mike Whiteside
Hidden 12/Apr/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Nom 12/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Joe Bream
Shaw Brown 11/Apr/09 Lead
with Loz
Hidden 05/Apr/09 2nd
Hidden 29/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Mar/09 Lead rpt
greenclimb 01/Mar/09 Lead RP
with Sarah
BRUCESTRAC ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 Lead dnf
Hidden ??/2009 2nd O/S
Sal37 ??/2009 Lead O/S
stephenhartley ??/2009 2nd
pie_eater_pete ??/2009 -
Hidden 25/Nov/08 Lead O/S
DavidR 19/Sep/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Sep/08 Lead O/S
gnc760 18/Sep/08 Lead RP
with Cocky
adam coxsell 18/Sep/08 2nd dnf
with Gareth
clive-greenwood 10/Sep/08 Lead O/S

A fabulous climb. Well worth the stars, good series of crux moves.

MikeLeeds 10/Sep/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Sep/08 Lead rpt
Matt Shepherd 12/Aug/08 Lead O/S
IAmAStone 29/Jul/08 2nd
with Liz Swanson
Joe Dove 13/Jul/08 2nd
with kev
mattyork2 10/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Adam Hodgson
craig d ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Simon Kincaid
sasmojo 03/May/08 Lead dog

One fall after struggling to get previous leaders gear out.

with Mark G
Mark D 02/May/08 Lead O/S
with Gareth Clendinning
gnc760 30/Apr/08 2nd dog
with Mark Duggan
Mark Warnett ?/Apr/08 Lead O/S
Nicos 14/Mar/08 Lead O/S
with simon shaw
wwykeham 17/Feb/08 2nd dog

First E1. A very stuck cam was a major contributor to me hanging off the rope, but pumped out doing the long crux. A properly good laugh that left my arms no loner functioning.

with Dan Hickstein
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/08 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
KKilroy ??/2008 Lead O/S
with O Hara
Hidden ??/2008 -
Mark Walter 12/Oct/07 Lead dnf
sparkass ?/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Carly 12/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with seb
OffshoreAndy 09/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with NCC Nic
Hidden 03/Sep/07 Lead rpt
Hidden 03/Sep/07 2nd dnf
Andy Moles 30/Aug/07 2nd
with Calum
Glyn 17/Aug/07 2nd
with Barni
barni 17/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Glyn
Martin Haworth ?/Aug/07 Lead β
with Richard
Hidden 27/Jul/07 Lead rpt
v.jester ?/Jul/07 2nd
with Tom
Thomas Martin ?/Jul/07 Lead β
with Vas Novotny
A Crook 05/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/May/07 2nd rpt
Alex@home 26/May/07 Lead O/S

lucky i didn't get the new stanage book till afterwards. it was e1 in my head and that's how i'll remember it ;-) great feeling pulling through the roofs on those huge jugs to the final stretch to the ledge

with peakdj
Hidden 03/May/07 2nd
Kirill 28/Apr/07 2nd dog
cem 28/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Apr/07 Lead
andy gravestock 10/Apr/07 Lead O/S

really good route but getting a bit battered now.

with father
IanJackson 04/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Robeverybody
craig matheson ?/Apr/07 Solo
Hidden 27/Mar/07 TR dog
Stig 24/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Maciek
Alex Mason 05/Feb/07 Lead O/S

have actually seconded it a long time ago didnt remember it! good route, juggy and soft.

Hidden 03/Feb/07 Lead O/S
Chad123 ?/Feb/07 AltLd O/S

A classic route- surely one of the best on Stanage - varied, great postion and keeps you interested all the way. Shame the first couple of moves are getting a bit polished.

with Rik
irish paul ??/2007 Lead O/S

Vey nice, start is polished but fabulous positions

with Andy F
Pete Graham ??/2007 Lead
Skell ??/2007 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
Rowansb ??/2007 2nd O/S
tumbling wizard ??/2007 -
tommytuffa ??/2007 -
jonnyboy 23/Dec/06 Lead
Steve Banham 10/Nov/06 Lead rpt

Beware of wind

SteveM 08/Oct/06 Lead
with Tobs
Luke Brooks 26/Sep/06 Lead O/S
01wills ?/Sep/06 Lead O/S


with luke williams
Sidekick ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 02/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Pythonist 29/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Chris Jennions
Owen W-G 02/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Bux ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Jon
mel holmes 25/May/06 Lead O/S
dan gibson 24/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with martina
Lev 14/Apr/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Apr/06 2nd dog
derico ??/2006 Lead rpt
dan gibson ??/2006 -
Hidden 13/Nov/05 Lead O/S
Jack Symmons ?/Nov/05 Lead
with Chris T
Cragrat Rich ?/Jun/05 Lead

Led free 2 years after seconding. Sustained but steady grit thuggery

Hidden ?/Jun/05 Lead
cornishben ?/May/05 Lead O/S
with Chris Sims
Hidden 03/Apr/05 Lead O/S
Ram MkiV ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Alex Mason
Rik Dawes ??/2005 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2005 2nd
Hidden 28/Nov/04 Lead O/S
ChrisBrooke 16/Oct/04 Lead O/S
with John Inkpen
Hidden ?/Sep/04 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/04 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/03 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/03 2nd O/S
Nigel Coe 20/Jul/03 -
with Dick Hanson
DubyaJamesDubya 27/Apr/03 Lead O/S
with John Bunny
Paz ?/Apr/03 Lead
with MH
Hidden ?/Oct/02 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/02 2nd
Hidden 04/May/02 2nd O/S
Brian Rodgers ??/2002 Lead O/S
with Alister
Hidden 26/Aug/01 Lead
John Marsland 20/May/01 2nd
with Eduardo Martinez
chrishedgehog 19/May/01 Lead O/S
with RockthrowerTom
Hidden 13/Jan/01 2nd
tuftynick ??/2001 -
Hidden 09/Sep/00 Lead
alex_th ?/Jun/00 Lead O/S
Jon Dittman 12/Mar/00 2nd
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
tlr ??/2000 2nd
with Cal
jonka ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 -
Urgles ??/2000 Lead O/S
Boy ??/2000 -
haydng ??/2000 Lead O/S
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
nige ??/2000 -
buxtoncoffeelover ?/Sep/99 2nd
goi.ashmore 09/Apr/99 Lead O/S
with James Tracey
Simon Pearce ??/1999 -
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/1999 -
Billg 21/May/98 Lead O/S
with Alisdair Pettifer
bigphil 24/Mar/98 2nd
with Calum
skygodley 14/Jan/98 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1998 -
Chris Reid 14/Jun/97 Lead O/S
uphillnow 26/Jan/97 Lead O/S

most recent lead May 2015

BruceW ??/1997 Lead O/S

Sometime in the 90's

Obi-Wan is lost... ??/1997 Lead
with Dan F
NeilGriffiths ??/1997 -
Neil R 28/Jul/96 Lead
lost.arrow 18/May/96 -
with Iain Kerr
Laramadness 21/Apr/96 2nd
phardman ??/1996 -
Pete Nugent 19/Oct/95 2nd
Hidden 30/Jul/95 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby 19/Jun/95 2nd
nai ??/1995 Lead
Adam Greenwood ??/1995 Lead O/S
with Pete Jeffery
Hidden 17/Sep/94 Lead
Hidden 01/Aug/94 2nd dog
Roget 01/Jan/94 Lead rpt
Hidden 13/Jun/93 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/93 Lead
ste_d 21/May/93 2nd O/S
with mik
mikedelderfield 01/May/93 Lead O/S
IanD353 ??/1993 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/92 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/92 Lead O/S
WB ??/1992 Lead O/S
steve taylor ??/1991 Lead
with stumpy
whispering nic 11/Nov/90 Solo
with Graham Iles
NickJH ?/Oct/90 Lead
with N Hancock
Roget 22/Jul/90 2nd O/S
with chris jones, jim
Guy ??/1990 -
Marti999 ??/1990 Lead
Hidden 26/Jun/89 2nd
Tom V 09/Jul/86 -
with Howie Darwin
stp 26/Apr/86 Solo

Previously climbed Congo Corner.

Hidden ??/1986 Lead
Mark Kemball 04/May/83 Lead
with Paul Clark
charlesmfrench 11/Sep/82 Lead O/S
mike bridges 06/Jul/80 2nd O/S
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
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High E2
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High 5c
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set