Rockfax Description
Climb the groove on the right to a ledge then the left-hand narrow crack above. Hard for the grade though the gear is good! © Rockfax

FA. Don Morrison early 1960s 1962

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage for Crack Apprentices.

TP 01/Nov Lead O/S
with ironmax
Ironmax 01/Nov 2nd
with TP
jwhereat 25/Oct Lead
Potemkin 19/Oct 2nd dog
Hidden 19/Oct Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Oct Lead O/S
nick ferro 13/Sep 2nd O/S
with Oli Birkill
Hidden 06/Sep 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/Sep 2nd O/S
BTphonehome 29/Aug Lead O/S
with Tony
tmawer 29/Aug 2nd O/S
with Bram
MaccMark 02/Aug 2nd
augustus trout 02/Aug Lead
Hidden 06/Jun Lead O/S
gritnit 05/Jun Lead
Hidden 30/May Lead O/S
Hidden 30/May 2nd
MusicalMountaineer 15/May 2nd dog

My undoing. Poor (non-exsistent) jamming technique was really shown up on this one... Still enjoyable!

Hidden 15/May Lead
Tubs 04/May -
with John T
Hidden ?/May -
tsjx 26/Apr Lead dog
with John Mc
cragsman9000 22/Apr Lead O/S
with Neil
bob_cbr 22/Apr 2nd O/S
Derek Furze 19/Apr Lead
with Paul Mitchell
Chris M 10/Apr AltLd
with Dan G
jonhowson 09/Apr 2nd rpt

Need to learn to jam properly as this feels harder than it should..

with Pete
andy.smythe 07/Apr Lead
MrBIond 07/Apr Lead O/S
mrteale 07/Apr -
with MrBlond
robblowen 04/Apr Lead O/S
with Munch
munch88 04/Apr 2nd β
with rob
jonhowson 18/Mar Lead dnf

Tough little number for the grade. Arms were not up to it. Must not go bouldering before routes.

with Chris
jonhowson 18/Mar 2nd rpt
with Chris
TobyA 14/Mar Lead O/S

Felt a bit harder than Agony around the corner.

with SimonW
Chris Sansum 18/Jan Lead O/S

Good fun jamming route. Climbed in the snow. Had to kneel on some holds to keep my boots dry!

Tom Keaveny 09/Nov/14 2nd O/S
MarkRoe 09/Nov/14 Lead O/S
ralphio 24/Oct/14 2nd

This felt hard for 5a. Tried to jam the crack and only just made it up. Maybe should have just laybacked like a demon.

with Simon
Gudge 22/Oct/14 2nd O/S
Lenny 22/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with Chris
danm 17/Oct/14 2nd
with Dan Arkle
Harry Thorpe 11/Oct/14 2nd O/S


thetradlad 11/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Aline 05/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Not quite sure where the route ended, climbed the extra bit after the crack and the big ledge, too, just to make sure. That last bit was nails, the crack lovely but not easy. Seconds were struggling... sandbag? Not quite but close. Good feet in the crack.

with Peak Climbing Club Sheffield
Hidden 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Sep/14 2nd
buxtoncoffeelover 31/Aug/14 Lead
with Jacob
Hidden 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Aug/14 2nd rpt
dr_botnik 31/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Started raining before i reached the top, was scrabbling around for anything positive, tough for VS.

with ken
Hidden 24/Jun/14 Lead
Hidden 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/14 Lead
djones66 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Definitely a sandbag at VS 4c. However, the gear's good, so its not a dangerous sandbag. I stuck religiously to the single left-hand crack. The crack to the right is another route, so am I tight in thinking that 'keep out of the right hand crack' is de rigeur for Thrombosis?

with Steve Bennet
Hardcore Pat 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Dr Julie
Tony Ryland 01/Jun/14 2nd
with Steve Barby
cem 31/May/14 2nd

VS 5a in the current definitive guide.

with Matt, Graham Dolman
wyzfen 31/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/May/14 Lead O/S
Fragmod 03/May/14 2nd
Deezel65 03/May/14 2nd O/S
cragtyke 03/May/14 Lead
stuart90 17/Apr/14 -
with Laura Thompson
Nick1812P 01/Apr/14 Solo O/S
with Ben
mes32 01/Apr/14 2nd RP


with Simon Allcock, Wilki
Simon Allcock 01/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Mar/14 2nd
MichaelConstantinou 09/Mar/14 Lead dog
with Dan Simonis
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
andy.smythe 01/Dec/13 Lead dnf

amazing how much ability you loose having a couple of months off. I would have pissed this 2 months ago. Oh well, on the list it goes.

john_ni 10/Nov/13 2nd

a struggle even on 2nd

with Julian Sorrell (PCC)
Hidden 21/Sep/13 2nd O/S
Jonathan Hall 21/Sep/13 Lead

Really wet, which made it rather tricky

chrispypar 23/Aug/13 2nd dog
Lotoni 27/Jul/13 Lead O/S

preplaced gear by mike (last two bad cams)

jrccrosby 30/Jun/13 Lead
hotfeet 02/Jun/13 Lead dog

A similar climb to Agony Crack and again I rested at the crux - filled the hold with gear which meant I had nowhere to put my hands.

jamesgr87 01/Jun/13 Lead dog
staceyjg 19/May/13 Lead dnf

WOW! Too difficult, unable to complete this route, maybe another time, but this is hard! Chris also tried to lead it, however managed to get the entire krab of nuts stuck when placing gear...... just where he wanted his hand!! Abbed down to strip route.

Oliver Houston 19/May/13 Lead rpt

Accidentally did this a 2nd time round... Forgot how perverted it was the 1st time!!

with Sarah
sarahsuth 19/May/13 2nd
braders94 12/May/13 Lead O/S
with Andy Lawrence, Rob Cooper
tomthecoolperson 11/May/13 Lead O/S
with Andrew
Hidden 06/May/13 2nd dog
shaun walby 04/May/13 2nd O/S
with al Jackson
JM0rrison 28/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Pat-H 23/Apr/13 Lead
with kate, don
BLodge 20/Apr/13 -
Palmer 17/Feb/13 Lead

the big ledge really lets this climb down. only just worth its one star

the power 16/Feb/13 2nd


with deacon
deacondeacon 16/Feb/13 Lead O/S
AlanPedrick ??/2013 -
roberto18 18/Nov/12 Lead O/S

not a bad little route, harder than it looks

with Dad (Mike Bridges)
KDhruev 27/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Katie
Hidden 20/Oct/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S
bwestwood 07/Oct/12 Lead
Peter Reynolds 07/Oct/12 2nd
Hidden ?/Oct/12 TR β
Dingchav ?/Oct/12 TR
Joe Strutt ?/Oct/12 TR
coffeepot 09/Sep/12 2nd
with jelaby
jelaby 09/Sep/12 Lead dnf

Put gear where I should've been jamming... and I can't jam anyway. Argh.

Matt77 01/Sep/12 Lead dog

Took a big fall!

with Tom Riddelsdell
bullybones 31/Aug/12 Lead
with Neil
Richard Alderton 28/Aug/12 2nd dog

Tough. Needed a rest.

with Liam
Dervey 28/Aug/12 Lead
with Rich
fatbuoybazza 18/Aug/12 Lead rpt

Much easier this time around..

with daveyw
Hidden ?/Aug/12 2nd dnf
Hannes B 12/Jul/12 Solo O/S
RichyBOYY 10/Jun/12 Lead
Hidden 10/Jun/12 2nd
bobstones 20/May/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Mar/12 Lead O/S
gb05 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
laurie turpin 21/Mar/12 2nd
catjm 18/Mar/12 2nd dog

made a bit of a mess of this and ended up starfished between two cracks that were too far apart for me to carry on up...

with Fiona Mellor, Lizzie Jenkins
Hidden 17/Mar/12 Lead dog
joemallia 11/Mar/12 Lead rpt
ChrisBrooke 10/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Duncan Bell
OffshoreAndy ?/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with UKC Paul
Brown 19/Feb/12 Solo
with Solo
Hidden ??/2012 2nd
TRFrost 26/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with P. Nugent
Pete Nugent 26/Oct/11 2nd

Failed to lead & had to dog as second. Not a good start to the day - Will have to come back to lead cleanly. VS 5a seems about right.

charley 20/Aug/11 Lead O/S

I always avoid jamming cracks but Kev handed me the lead after he backed off. I really should learn to jam properly one of these days. Took a few attempts to commit to the crux, tried to cheat and layback as much as possible on the crux move but that proved quite tricky to do. Had a bit of the moment at the upper section, before managing to get a decent jam in, which allowed me to place some much needed gear before the topout.

Tithe Technique 20/Aug/11 2nd O/S
chumleywarner 20/Aug/11 TR O/S
Nigel Bond 17/Aug/11 Lead
with Bern Hardman
SuperstarDJ 14/Aug/11 2nd dog

Great lead from Tony. I climbed the top section in 2 feet bursts. I rested more on the rope on this route than in my clmbing life so far. Pathetic. The route up to the crack is very easy then suddenly it's a sod.

with Tony Hussain
Hidden 11/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Bob Windsor ?/Aug/11 Lead
with Rick Graham
1906johns 20/Jul/11 -
Jimbo C 02/Jun/11 2nd

Pumpy. Good lead from Pete. Maybe harder than Agony Crack.

with Pete
BeccaSnowden 01/May/11 Lead O/S

Nails! Top end VS, the jams were rubbish felt like 5a as the book says it is.

with Tom
thomasadixon 01/May/11 Lead rpt

Nails at VS, defo 5a - dogged seconding in Nov/06.

with Becca
jamiemcdonald 29/Apr/11 TR dog
with Paul, Phill Sparks
jamiemcdonald 29/Apr/11 Lead dnf
with Michelle Taylor
PhillS 29/Apr/11 TR
with Jamie
w.pettet-smith 20/Apr/11 Solo

pretty tough at widening.

Oliver Houston 29/Mar/11 Lead O/S
thekendo 24/Feb/11 Lead O/S
timofy 12/Feb/11 Lead dog

got too pumped avoiding jamming and cheated with a hand around the other crack

Hidden 09/Feb/11 Solo dnf
Hidden ??/2011 Lead dog
Hidden ??/2011 -
uphillnow ??/2011 -
Hidden ?/Dec/10 -
Jim Slater 13/Nov/10 2nd O/S
Rob84 19/Oct/10 2nd dog
with Dunc Bell
HIGHTOWER 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Rich P
mattorford 10/Oct/10 Lead
claregardiner 02/Oct/10 2nd
Hidden 30/Sep/10 -
Tony Holdsworth 30/Sep/10 2nd rpt

Very wet in the crack after heavt rain overnight - tough lead.

with Guido
Hoyes 25/Sep/10 Lead dog
Batt 25/Sep/10 2nd O/S
jaimer 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Sep/10 2nd rpt
Hidden 12/Sep/10 Lead dnf
howlingbaboon 12/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Rob
Hidden 05/Sep/10 Lead rpt
JamieSparkes 10/Aug/10 Lead β
llamaglama 10/Aug/10 2nd
with Jam
Danny Crump 03/Aug/10 Lead O/S
dan gibson 03/Aug/10 Solo rpt
Hidden 01/Aug/10 2nd rpt
hailtryfan ?/Aug/10 2nd rpt
with Danny
markfairbank 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Made for a stiff warm-up

with SteveyM
SteveMyatt 20/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with Mark Fairbank
Hidden 02/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/May/10 2nd rpt
Will Homoky 24/Apr/10 2nd O/S

Bit of a nails-start for VS... but nice climb.

with Tom Hindson
James_D 18/Apr/10 Lead dnf

Hard! And too easy to step back and give up. Which is exactly what i did.

with Rach
kleinej 17/Apr/10 Lead dog

I still don't know how to jam and even though it's so short, I just had to rest.

with Andres
Graeme Hammond 27/Mar/10 Lead O/S

MUCH better climbing than it looks and far easier it looks or the guide book suggests (though probably still one 5a move?), good jams and solid easy to place gear, and worthy of its star

with Craig
andrew sandercock 07/Mar/10 Solo O/S
CharlieMack ?/Mar/10 Solo O/S
RossG ??/2010 -
Sean Kelly ??/2010 -
richyg ??/2010 -
drysori ??/2010 Lead
Hidden 18/Oct/09 2nd O/S
sce8 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Neil
gw66 17/Oct/09 Lead dog
Shaw Brown 17/Oct/09 2nd
with Simon White
The Mountain Goat 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Laurence Davis
r@bag 17/Oct/09 2nd dog
andy jennings 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Floris
r@bag 17/Oct/09 Lead dnf
victim of mathematics 06/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Jaime
Jon Dittman 22/Aug/09 Lead
fatbuoybazza 20/Jul/09 Lead dog
nai 31/May/09 2nd
with Tim
andrew300169 31/May/09 2nd O/S

Surprisingly difficult. Fealt 5a but is was a very very hot day

with Tim
tlr 31/May/09 Lead
with Pom
Hidden 27/May/09 Lead O/S
Fat Tim 23/May/09 Lead O/S
Benrj 23/May/09 2nd
with lauren foster
AJ007 27/Apr/09 2nd
Hidden 26/Apr/09 Lead dnf
Hidden 26/Apr/09 Lead O/S
daveclarke5 13/Apr/09 2nd dog


with Andy
Hidden 11/Apr/09 2nd rpt
SteveM 05/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Paul
Hidden 03/Apr/09 2nd
Hidden 19/Mar/09 Solo O/S
BRUCESTRAC ??/2009 -
Andrew Sloan 12/Oct/08 2nd dog

Tried climbing this in approach shoes....too hard for that!

with Malik
Hidden 25/Sep/08 2nd rpt
Hidden 20/Sep/08 Lead rpt
Hidden 13/Sep/08 2nd rpt
Hidden 25/Aug/08 2nd rpt
Hidden 13/Aug/08 2nd rpt
John Marsland 02/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Goi
Shauna 23/Jul/08 2nd dog

I couldn't even second this, so tired were my arms, and so poor was my jamming technique. Pathetic.

with Steve
Sam W 28/Jun/08 Lead
with Nina Jenkinson
Hidden 21/Jun/08 Lead rpt
Hidden 07/Jun/08 2nd rpt
Hidden 14/May/08 2nd rpt
awh18awh 08/May/08 Lead O/S
with Will
Hidden 03/May/08 2nd rpt
wanderso 03/May/08 Lead O/S

Beautiful day at Stannage. Tough climb, took me several tries before I committed to doing it and then it was touch and go. Good gear though and felt safe. Pumped arms when finally got above crux and managed to put a huge friend in and a hex. Finished a little desperately. Relieved I have to say. Buzzing.

with Andrew Green
Hidden ?/May/08 2nd
Hidden 09/Apr/08 Solo
Creep_pea 19/Mar/08 2nd dog
with Tom
Hidden 19/Mar/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Feb/08 2nd O/S
dicky79 09/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Nicola
hailtryfan ?/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Costas
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/08 Lead
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
sdht ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Mark Stitson (ULGMC) 03/Nov/07 Lead
with Cosmin Andron
Hidden 30/Sep/07 2nd rpt
Hidden 30/Sep/07 2nd rpt
tobydunford 02/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Sarah Wysling
Hidden 27/Aug/07 2nd rpt
btc 01/Aug/07 Lead
with ian lovatt
Hidden 28/Jul/07 2nd rpt
baldcoder 08/Jun/07 Lead O/S

a little pumpy in muggy weather, 'orrible midges.

with Little Old Lady
baldcoder 08/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Little Old Lady
jcurley 25/May/07 2nd
with Harry
Jim Vach 12/May/07 Lead O/S
with Tim Dorsett
cheeky 02/May/07 2nd RP
with Mark Philipson + Dale Knox
jcurley 25/Apr/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/Apr/07 2nd rpt
Hidden 01/Apr/07 Lead rpt
craig matheson ?/Apr/07 Solo
Stig 24/Mar/07 2nd O/S
with Maciek
peter myers ?/Mar/07 Lead
with Alex May
Tim W 04/Feb/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2007 -
a_d_tru 29/Oct/06 2nd dog

tried to lead it, took a fall onto a spike on the ledge (ouch!). struggled to second it - good jamming practice!

with DW1
Hidden 29/Oct/06 Lead
dmoir 15/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with Francis Winship
tradguy 14/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with John Mitchener
Nicos 28/Sep/06 Solo O/S
with solo
Hidden 03/Sep/06 2nd rpt
Hidden 27/Aug/06 Lead O/S
naughtybadboy 27/Aug/06 2nd
Hidden 13/Aug/06 Lead β
Hidden 22/Jul/06 2nd rpt
Hidden 08/Jul/06 2nd dog
Hidden 25/Jun/06 2nd dog
Rampikino 25/Jun/06 Lead
with MMC Various
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 24/Jun/06 Solo rpt
Monk 24/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with RUMC
JonBray 11/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Jun/06 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 ?/Jun/06 Solo O/S
PenJD 24/May/06 Lead O/S
with Jules Littlefair
Mutl3y 11/May/06 Lead dog

climbed cleanly from the ledge, after a fall.

with Mister Smith
dan gibson ??/2006 -
stuc ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Nov/05 Lead dnf
rob wmc 29/Oct/05 Lead O/S
with Pete
Hidden 22/Sep/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/05 Lead
Hidden 23/Jul/05 Lead dnf
mooseloose 25/May/05 Lead O/S
with Alan Rocky Roberts
Hidden 14/May/05 Lead
jamiev 19/Feb/05 Solo O/S
Hidden 04/Dec/04 2nd
mel holmes ?/Nov/04 2nd
alj ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
with Sam Cottrell
Hidden 25/May/03 Solo O/S
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 26/Mar/03 2nd O/S
with Jon Box
djking1983 28/Sep/02 Lead
dan gibson 11/Sep/02 Solo rpt
Hidden ?/Aug/02 Lead
ian_tintin 23/Jun/02 2nd
Hidden 24/Mar/02 Lead O/S
Jon Greengrass ??/2002 -
Hidden ??/2002 2nd O/S
martroberts 13/May/01 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/01 Lead
adamwesthead 18/May/00 Lead O/S

First VS. Hard and scary

with Wallis
Hidden ??/2000 -
Rock Fairy ??/2000 2nd
Blod 17/Oct/99 Lead O/S

Elephants **** exit.

with Rob D
kato'sdad ?/Apr/99 Lead
RobSimmo ?/Apr/99 2nd
Simon Pearce ??/1999 -
Hidden 04/Aug/98 Lead
Mike Turner 18/Apr/98 2nd O/S
with Steve Gray
tapley 11/Jan/98 -
rurp ??/1996 -
Rog Wilko ?/Nov/95 Lead

Thought this was worth HVS 5a.

with Debbie Wilkinson
babymoac 27/Sep/92 Lead
with Manda
steve prior ?/Jun/90 Lead
with Rob W
Andy Say 27/Nov/88 Solo
Dave Musgrove 20/Aug/86 AltLd
Tom V 24/Apr/86 -
with Mark Darwin
Rob Davies ?/Sep/84 Lead
Ken Taylor 16/Aug/83 AltLd
with Andy Chadwick, Richard Langthorp
Hidden 12/Aug/79 Solo
Canyak ??/1973 -
mikej 16/Oct/66 2nd
with Keith Gregson
Hidden 01/May/65 TR
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Will Falder, Hidden, Hidden, jamiemcdonald, rocktigger, Hidden, Hidden, tommytwotone, Jord64@msn.com
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 83
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 82
Votes cast 65
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set