UKC

18m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the awkward wide crack to the right edge of the cave then move right to finish up the face. Well protected but hard work. © Rockfax

FA. Eric Byne 1950.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , 100 Stanage stars , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Northern (Yorkshire !?) Climbs for a Southerner , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Stanage Starred VDiffs , Stanage Popular Greens , Stanage 'Difficults' , Stanage Solo , Stanage Routes - Epic Crackathon , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Level 1 Peak Trad Routes , Stanage green spot starters , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Stanage Green Spot Challenge

Feedback

User Date Notes
Dominic 25 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Rewarding route, feels tricky if keeping low on the traverse and no rest at the cave.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Rewarding route, feels tricky if keeping low on the traverse and no rest at the cave.
gilandcoop 29 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Wired guide has it as a VDiff..definitely an HVD.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Wired guide has it as a VDiff..definitely an HVD.
majicjohn 18 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: sent my mate up this for his 3rd lead ever and he did the traverse to low but managed to get through. I think the low traverse is pretty fun but definatly not for the faint hearted that think its a VD! Good fun.
Show beta
βeta: sent my mate up this for his 3rd lead ever and he did the traverse to low but managed to get through. I think the low traverse is pretty fun but definatly not for the faint hearted that think its a VD! Good fun.
CurlyStevo 28 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Did this a few years back. A really nice route and didn't seem too hard for VD, compares in difficulty with Leaning Buttress Crack. There is great gear in the cave a sling aroung a huge boulder!
βeta?
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βeta: Did this a few years back. A really nice route and didn't seem too hard for VD, compares in difficulty with Leaning Buttress Crack. There is great gear in the cave a sling aroung a huge boulder!
Byronius Maximus 27 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I too made the mistake of going into the cave, hoping that it would offer some protection, bad idea! While the start was a bit tricky, I found a couple of moves on the face above the cave to be the most awkward. I also thought it was poorly protected for the grade.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I too made the mistake of going into the cave, hoping that it would offer some protection, bad idea! While the start was a bit tricky, I found a couple of moves on the face above the cave to be the most awkward. I also thought it was poorly protected for the grade.
victim of mathematics 9 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: extremely hard at the grade, there are many easier severes about the place. Easier if you have a rest stood in the cave though.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: extremely hard at the grade, there are many easier severes about the place. Easier if you have a rest stood in the cave though.
Simon Caldwell 21 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Hard to start direct, judging by the polish most people (including me!) traverse in from the left. After than it's straightford VDiff, but harder if you traverse low down with your hands in the big break rather than moving up into the cave and using the break for your feet.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Hard to start direct, judging by the polish most people (including me!) traverse in from the left. After than it's straightford VDiff, but harder if you traverse low down with your hands in the big break rather than moving up into the cave and using the break for your feet.

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Voting
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
Votes cast 126
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 19
Votes cast 117
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Flying Buttress

Grade: HVD 4a ***
(Stanage Popular)

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