There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
A fine and varied route. Climb an open groove to the left-hand side of a narrow roof, fiddle gear in here then step left and follow the delicate groove to ledges. Finish up the wall above. © Rockfax
FA. Don Morrison et al early 1960s.
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Popular , Severe Stanage , The Gritlist , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Monk | 26 Jun, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: I found that it was hard to get any bomber gear in due to all the rusty wires. I used a 0.5 cam which was a bit under cammed on 2 of the cams and a size 1 next to it. I think it was ok but not as bomber as I would like. I also found that the moves up to the ledge were fairly thin but it was a hot day. Good route. | ||
Show beta
βeta: I found that it was hard to get any bomber gear in due to all the rusty wires. I used a 0.5 cam which was a bit under cammed on 2 of the cams and a size 1 next to it. I think it was ok but not as bomber as I would like. I also found that the moves up to the ledge were fairly thin but it was a hot day. Good route. |
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leon | 6 May, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: 5a(?) moves to establish yourself in the groove and then 5b up the delicate groove. very well protected but hard finish. | ||
Show beta
βeta: 5a(?) moves to establish yourself in the groove and then 5b up the delicate groove. very well protected but hard finish. |
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nick w | 27 Apr, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: did it two weeks ago ,pulled out one rusty wire and got a sma1l cam in lovely.1 star for aspect. | ||
Show beta
βeta: did it two weeks ago ,pulled out one rusty wire and got a sma1l cam in lovely.1 star for aspect. |
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gooose | 7 Aug, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Getting a bit crowded in the crack below the crux with well-wedged nuts. Someone's been at them with a hack-saw leaving room for a 1-Friend only. Good fun tho. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Getting a bit crowded in the crack below the crux with well-wedged nuts. Someone's been at them with a hack-saw leaving room for a 1-Friend only. Good fun tho. |
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Nick Smith - Climbers | 25 Jun, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: A great sequence of moves through the crux. A deep one-finger pocket may be of some assistance! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: A great sequence of moves through the crux. A deep one-finger pocket may be of some assistance! |
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The Grist | 19 Aug, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: A great rotue to break into the HVS grade. Good gear below the crux. Gain the big hold the agan perfect gear for the next move. Possibly harder for the short. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: A great rotue to break into the HVS grade. Good gear below the crux. Gain the big hold the agan perfect gear for the next move. Possibly harder for the short. |
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Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Stanage Popular)