UKC

16m.

Rockfax Description
Photogenic. The ledge on the arete is gained awkwardly from the right, then make long reaches (5b for the short) to gain better holds higher up the arete. The upper section is more delicate. Escape right across the chimney or through the cave. © Rockfax

FA. Don Morrison early 1960s.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , 'Soft' Peak HVSs. , Ultimate HVS ticklist , Stanage Wishlist , Severe Stanage , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List

Feedback

User Date Notes
Pixie-Andy 23 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: 6ft but crux still not easy! Defo harder for short. 6ft 2 and big ape spam or even short legs might help!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 6ft but crux still not easy! Defo harder for short. 6ft 2 and big ape spam or even short legs might help!
sandy 19 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Well I'm 5'6" (on a good day!) and found the long reach very long (fell off once). Finally managed it with a real slap move. Good holds though when you get them....
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Well I'm 5'6" (on a good day!) and found the long reach very long (fell off once). Finally managed it with a real slap move. Good holds though when you get them....
Monk 20 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: I'm 5'7" and I didn't find this particularly difficult. I would have thought it was reasonably soft HVS. There are big holds all the way up and the protection is perfect. Great route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I'm 5'7" and I didn't find this particularly difficult. I would have thought it was reasonably soft HVS. There are big holds all the way up and the protection is perfect. Great route.
Albie 12 Aug, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: I agree, the overhang is tough for the 'vertically challenged'. But after a dozen falls I can testify that the gear placements are bomber just below the crux. May have another go when I'm capable of HVS 5b.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I agree, the overhang is tough for the 'vertically challenged'. But after a dozen falls I can testify that the gear placements are bomber just below the crux. May have another go when I'm capable of HVS 5b.

Logged Ascents

1844 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Stanage Popular

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 128 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 226
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 224
Votes cast 200
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Peapod

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Curbar Edge)

Loading Notifications...