Desperation*** E1 6a
[Shear Desperation, 2 kb]12m.

Rockfax Description
The lower section of the smooth wall is climbed via a problem start at f6A+ using a cruel finger-jam (desperate for short climbers). Swing left then gain a standing position in the break with difficulty. The upper section then follows the thin crack and gradually eases. © ROCKFAX

FA. Bob Brayshaw 1959

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Eastern Grit Jamming, 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each, Stanage E1 Challenge (1989 Guide), Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day, Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties, Stanage for Crack Apprentices, Tick List for 2015/2016.

Photo: Shear Desperation © Chris Craggs
View all 14 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 520 logbooks, and on 57 wishlists.

Hard going from the break to the sloper at half high. Pumped out then back went into spasms
JamesWilliams - Lead dog - 04/Oct/15 with Adam Revill, jamesA

Felix la shat - TR - 13/Sep/15 with Louis

Hidden - TR RP - 19/Aug/15

Got the hard move off the floor but completely clueless on the move to the 2nd break. Either stupid hard, or I'm stupid. Backed off and sulked.
mikespooner - Lead dnf - 16/Aug/15 with Luke von Freeden

1 rest after getting pumped fiddling with gear too long
strudles - Lead dog - 15/Aug/15

Pretty hard and pumpy but brilliant wall climb
manwithacam - 2nd - 15/Aug/15 with Stephen

EBailey - Lead G/U - 07/Aug/15

Nails hard route, E1 6a sums it up nicely. Took me 3 tries to nail the boulder problem starting move and jumping onto the route. Got a silver and blue dragon cam in and made it to the diagonal crack then had my first proper trad fall onto them. Coming back for this next year.
jsmcfarland - Lead dnf - 03/Aug/15 with Caelan

tried before but didnt really get off the ground so still onsight, found it surprisingly ok today!
shaunhumphreys - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/15 with Elliot

Would like to go back and RP this. Great climbing.
TonyB - Lead dog - 25/Jul/15 with TobyA

I thought the move above the first break was the crux - pretty desperate!
TobyA - 2nd dog - 25/Jul/15 with TonyB

Beth did it but I failed to get the finger jam or lay away. Disappointing!
MartinJWood - TR dnf - 18/Jul/15 with Beth Oates

bethoates - TR O/S - 18/Jul/15 with MartinJWood

Hidden - 2nd dog - 03/Jul/15

Managed to invert falling off a move just after the first ledge to the crack. So glad we had a pad and my cam held! Saw someone doing the route later and i should have gone for the nice side pull and not the minging sloper i selected. haha
snook - Lead dnf - 26/Jun/15 with stephen ashworth

john lynch - Lead rpt - 09/Jun/15 with Dylan, Lewis Andrew

50-60mph winds. Horrendous but the move still feels hard.
gavinpeach - Lead dnf - 02/Jun/15 with Hellen

Worked out a sequence but too knackered to execute it. I'll be back and hopefully get it next time. Tough crux straight off the ground and way harder than 5c cruxes I've done on other routes. Feels more like 6a.
gavinpeach - Lead dnf - 24/May/15 with Max Pendleton

Felt properly hard for 5c!
i.fish2000 - Lead G/U - 23/May/15 with Sam Davidson

Hidden - 2nd dog - 16/May/15

drysori - Lead - 16/May/15 with Everyone!

MrBIond - Lead O/S - 16/May/15 with Ed Teale

mrteale - 2nd β - 15/May/15 with MrBlond

RFWilkie - Lead rpt - 10/May/15

If you can climb this then you probably won't strudel with a lot of e3s
Andy Peak 1 - Lead rpt - 01/May/15 with Jone nuttal

Lead 1985
John Nuttall - 2nd dog - 01/May/15 with Andy Peak 1

hervenuttall - Lead O/S - May/15 with Matt W

drysori - TR - 20/Apr/15

Kevster - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/15 with Lizzie

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 17/Apr/15

Good effort Luca!
Jackwd - 2nd rpt - 08/Apr/15 with Luca Celano

LJC - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/15 with Mark

hard start, easy finish. delightful!
James S - 2nd O/S - 22/Mar/15 with geoff

grp - Lead - 20/Mar/15

took a few tries to get off the floor.
benkelsey - Lead rpt - 05/Nov/14 with Teappleby

quite hard first moves for the short!
Teappleby - 2nd - 05/Nov/14 with Ben Kelsey

RKirke - Lead O/S - 01/Nov/14 with Banksy

Albachoss - 2nd O/S - 01/Nov/14 with The Reach

TRFrost - Lead O/S - 26/Oct/14 with J. Hulbert

Bron H - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/14

M_Robinson - 2nd O/S - 05/Oct/14 with Phil Skurok

Crux felt more like 6a to me. Took a couple of tries to get it. Route still felt very sustained after that. Would have struggled on lead.
ralphio - 2nd - 03/Oct/14 with Ash

Hard E1, Pad to protect first moves... I like my ankles.
Ash Sayers - Lead O/S - 03/Oct/14

Gudge - Lead dnf - 29/Sep/14 with Steve Collings

georgenvk - Lead dnf - 28/Sep/14 with Peter Milner

Harder than remembered. This has my least favourite hold anywhere! Couldn't do it statically, so had to pop for the break. Well-named! Much nicer after first moves
julesmckim - Lead RP - 28/Sep/14 with Mickie Streule

DaveMo - 2nd - 27/Sep/14 with Jan

Hidden - Lead dnf - 27/Sep/14

g1m147 - 2nd - 07/Sep/14 with Mick.

Gympaul - 31/Aug/14

Hidden - Solo - 07/Jul/14

Hot, midgy, and hard. Felt 6a the way I attempted it. Got initial reach with high foot, faffed placing (poor) gear and then rocked over on a pebble to left crimp. Note to self: this is not the way to do it. Proceeded to pump out on jug above. First trad fall. Excellent.
MYox - Lead dnf - 14/Jun/14 with Jim

Desperate! Couldn't actually do the start so came in from side.
Luxulyan - Lead dnf - 12/Jun/14 with Tom Murrell

tim.fairhall - Lead RP - 08/Jun/14 with Hui

NDD - Solo - 02/Jun/14

Hidden - Lead dog - 30/May/14

Didn't properly commit to the first move the first time, so second go, ground up.
Rachel Slater - Lead RP - 18/May/14 with Jennifer Slater

danm - 18/May/14 with andy scott

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/May/14

robgixer - Lead O/S - 11/Mar/14

Radical-G - Lead RP - 09/Mar/14

WillDoyle - Lead O/S - 04/Mar/14

this is a stupid grade, E3 6a?! quite alot harder than Cave Eliminate @ tough E2 6a
ashtond6 - 2nd - 01/Mar/14

Hidden - Lead dog - 01/Mar/14

hilty - Lead O/S - 2014 with kyle holden

Dan Arkle - 2014

Hidden - Lead - 2014

Got the bottom static which was nice.
Matthew Ferrier - Lead O/S - 17/Dec/13 with Ben, Nick

Couple falls off boulder problem start
jakenichol - Lead - 08/Dec/13 with Dave Heaton

tried for fun as was only thing dry in the morning. got to the break but couldnt stick the jams any higher
jmills94 - TR dnf - 07/Dec/13 with ed

Dan Bates - 28/Nov/13

Finally got it after falling off a couple of years ago. Quickly re-remember the sequence and went for it.
Jackwd - Lead β - 12/Nov/13 with Angela Paul

Gutted. Popped a tendon trying to get this one again :-(
valentinesbabe - 2nd dnf - 12/Nov/13 with Jack Drake

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Oct/13

couldn't reach from first to second break. took a couple of falls trying this. needed to rock over a high right foot.
DaveMo - Lead dnf - 06/Oct/13 with Joe Chambers, Jan

Traversed off right from the first break so I could return with the correct sized cam. Then did it properly.
Stone Muppet - Lead O/S - 05/Oct/13 with hauke

A tricky littel bugger:-)
Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 01/Oct/13 with random

Hidden - Lead dnf - 21/Sep/13

Not my best work. Poor show.
James Oswald - Lead dnf - 14/Sep/13 with Kyle Wood

john lynch - Lead rpt - 10/Sep/13 with Joe Holden, ed luke

Hidden - 2nd dog - 01/Sep/13

rich_hw - Lead RP - 01/Sep/13 with Fran

Got the first part clean, got some cams then couldn't work out the next moves...I thought I'd done the hard bit, maybe I was missing something!
David Kay - Lead dnf - 18/Aug/13 with Mynydd C.C.

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/13

Aptly named, fell off start a few times. Probably worth E2 6a for short.
James Oakes - Lead RP - 01/Aug/13 with Hamish Legge, Gareth Hooson

Managed to do the hard first move but then missed the good hold out left for the next section and fell-off, annoying.
MikeLeeds - Lead dog - 21/Jul/13 with John McMahon

Couldn't quite complete the first sequence to get hands in the break (so close!), so traversed in.
tsjx - Lead - 21/Jul/13 with Ian

khalidq - TR dnf - 14/Jul/13 with Cameron McLoughlin

freudy_love - 2nd O/S - 03/Jul/13 with Pete Macpherson

MartinWilliams87 - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/13 with Richard Williams

2nd attempt after falling inches below the jug. Got lowered back down to the bottom for the second try. Felt like E2 5c 5c to me and I am 6' 1".
Steve Waters, Mynydd - 2nd - 05/Jun/13 with Mike Tempest

mtempest - Lead - 05/Jun/13 with Steve Waters, Mynydd

Sam Simpson - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/13

Pippa - Lead rpt - 26/May/13 with Jamie Thornley

mountain_jay - 2nd - 26/May/13 with Pippa Froggatt

Si dH - 2nd rpt - 19/May/13 with Neil Furniss

Anne Gumbley - TR dog - 19/May/13 with Harry Middleton

Benjamin walton - TR - 05/May/13

Top rope set up incorrectly so only did one move then gave up. Pointless doing such hard routes early in the day.
Voltemands - TR dnf - 04/May/13 with Ben Walton

Hidden - Lead rpt - 30/Apr/13

Dean177 - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/13 with Alan Dibben

Dibdawg - 2nd - 27/Apr/13 with Dean Merchant

Hidden - TR - 17/Mar/13

Harry Holmes - Lead O/S - 03/Mar/13 with Joanna, liam ingram

Liam Ingram - 2nd dog - 03/Mar/13 with Harry Holmes

wolf.leeb - Lead O/S - 02/Mar/13 with Dom, jo

shark - Solo - 17/Feb/13 with Mark Richardson

Took a while to figure out the bottom crux, I think it might be 6a for the short, but once its dialled it wasn't too bad, took a few falls
Paul Tanner - Lead dog - 09/Feb/13

Mackinclimb - 2nd - 09/Feb/13

arrang - Lead O/S - 08/Feb/13

jcooper8 - 2nd - 08/Feb/13

bclifton - Lead - 2013

Stupidly hard for E1 if you're not so tall! 6a at least for me, took me a few goes to get the start.
Joughton - Lead - 22/Dec/12

sadams - Lead - 29/Oct/12 with Eric Hildrew

The Biochemist - Lead β - 21/Oct/12

climbingsheep - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/12

Ollie B - Lead rpt - 07/Oct/12 with B.Brewer

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 27/Sep/12

Hidden - Solo - 17/Sep/12

hard start and fierce layback off left hand crimp
rurp - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/12

Couldn't figure out move up from gear on first go and had to lower off - completely missed hold up left. I blame boozy lunch.
Alex Winter - Lead - 02/Sep/12 with W. Morgan

Jake Young - 2nd rpt - 31/Aug/12 with Nick

must be climbing well, it felt easy today.
Nick1812P - Lead rpt - 31/Aug/12 with Jake

mark20 - Solo rpt - 28/Aug/12

Jake Young - Lead β - 28/Aug/12 with Mark R

Haydn Jones - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/12 with deacon

JamieSparkes - 2nd rpt - 11/Aug/12 with Fergus Cuthill, Tom Eadington

The Big Sender - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/12 with Fergus Cuthill

have tried the start previously
deacondeacon - Lead RP - 10/Aug/12

Tried the start and jumped off a few times. Very hard start, but I wouldn't call it top end E1 - the top half is so easy
Cake - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/12 with Mr Harvey

Previously fluffed the start, lead this time with gear clipped in first break from partners dnf. Cruised the start static, had beta for second crux.
jwpil - Lead β - 02/Aug/12 with Deacon

Onsighted the start, got the gear in, then got pumped faffing around so down climbed and had a rest. Then fell off the start! Stupid, should have been clean. Brilliant route though, start is top end 5c, then no harder than 5a after that. 3*!
Ewano - Lead dog - 22/Jul/12

Hidden - Lead - 22/Jul/12

totally missed the left hold above the brake, so felt paticulary desparate. lovely little route
w.pettet-smith - Lead - 21/Jul/12 with pat

Simon_Letman - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/12 with Neil Furniss

Archbishop - 2nd - 15/Jul/12 with Dan Shacklock

Archbishop - 2nd - 15/Jul/12 with Dan Shacklock

It was raining, but the wall pretty dry. Fell off a few times at the bottom, bloody 'ard!
Sam Marks - Lead - 05/Jul/12 with J. Hodgson, Rory Stead

Jodgson - 2nd dog - Jul/12 with Sam Marks

mark20 - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/12

Hannes B - Solo O/S - 18/Jun/12

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 17/Jun/12

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Jun/12

Gareth Bowen - Lead dnf - 29/May/12 with Rachel Sutton

Hidden - 2nd - 22/May/12

Felt like 6a. Hard getting off the ground. Top half much easier. Would be a boulder problem with mats.
Poco Loco - 2nd - 20/May/12 with David M

esther - Lead - May/12

Matt Cooke - Lead rpt - 28/Apr/12 with Rosh

pie_eater_pete - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/12 with Dave Sargent

maddy.c - 31/Mar/12

tom.e - Lead β - 31/Mar/12 with Malcolm

Hidden - Lead dnf - 30/Mar/12

Tried to jump on this as my warm-up/first E1 lead. Managed to get to the last move on the second crux on my first attempt but fell! Then top-roped it clean to remove gear! Hard work!
Jackwd - TR RP - 18/Mar/12 with Kev Titheradge, Angela Paul

Jack made the moves look easy, the rest of us barely got off the ground. Seemed really hard for E1 5c
valentinesbabe - TR dnf - 18/Mar/12 with Jack Drake, Charley Fell, Kevin Tithe

Tithe Technique - TR dnf - 18/Mar/12 with Jack Drake, Angela Paul, Charley Fell

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Mar/12

Really enjoyed this. Above a bouldering mat, because I had it with me. Im nearly 6' and used a static height-independent sequence, which I assume must be the 'short person sequence', but it was no way 6a. 5c for all, just tech. Looks like a prime grade-inflation candidate... everyone says its hard, so people believe it is? Never E2.
jacobjlloyd - Solo O/S - 01/Mar/12

Apharri - 2nd O/S - Mar/12 with John Lynch

john lynch - Lead O/S - 29/Feb/12 with adam harrison

Matt Cooke - Lead dog - 19/Feb/12 with Rosh

Tony Kartawick - 2012

admackie - 2012

Couldn't reach on the start (5ft11 but short arms) and had to pop for the break, which felt interesting without a mat.
Si dH - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/11 with Andy

bigdrew - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/11 with Si

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Oct/11

funsized - Lead RP - 15/Oct/11 with Ben Harper, Tom Green

dmoir - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/11 with Gid

Ed Westwood - 2nd dog - 15/Oct/11 with Dave Moir

i thought this was a little tricky for E1.
markalmack - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/11 with shiobhan

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Sep/11

Two 'nails' cruxes. The climbing above the cruxes was enjoyable though. Top effort to Chad for his tenacity on leading this one!
sophiecb - 2nd - 24/Sep/11 with Chad

Had many attempts at start, seems very thin and dynamic move above crap, low gear, not great! Second crux is also pretty hard to arrange gear so whole route feels more like a highball V3...frustrating but glad to finally get to the top!
Chad123 - AltLd dog - 24/Sep/11 with Sophie B

Hidden - Lead - 16/Sep/11

Hidden - Lead dog - 03/Sep/11

Hidden - 2nd dog - 03/Sep/11

Pleased with this onsight. I've been putting it off cos it looked hard and surprisingly, it is! Definately felt 5c/6a ish but i am 5'6".
Jonathan Hall - Lead - 17/Aug/11 with Will Ward

Couldn't second it either, but great moves.
James_D - Lead dnf - 13/Aug/11 with John

JPGR - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/11

Tamati - 2nd dog - Aug/11

Tamati - 2nd dog - Aug/11

Andy Hardy - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead - 11/Jul/11

Looked at this one a lot. Found the second crux moves a lot easier than I expected, more like 5b. The first move is hard, but more tenuous than strenuous. At 5'11 it was at the limit of my reach.
leon - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/11 with Steven Davidson

wi11 - 2nd β - 10/Jul/11 with Duncan, Marcus, Nat

natalietanzer - Lead dog - 10/Jul/11 with will, marcus, nacnud

nacnud - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/11 with Natalie Tanzer

Fran S8 - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/11

BeccaSnowden - 2nd O/S - 29/Jun/11 with Tom

Nails at the grade (for shorties anyway)! Great climbing.
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/11 with Becca

Missed out the start, so traversed in from the right. Maybe HVS 5c this way?
Daniel Heath - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/11

lots of fun trying to work this following unsuccesful lead attempt by dave. very fingery and thin! we all thought more like E2
pebbles - TR dog - 27/Jun/11 with alastair, dave shield

fun. good moves
al123 - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/11 with alex

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/Jun/11

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/11 with Harry Martin

M_W_Court - 2nd RP - 14/Jun/11 with Jonny Rae

JRae - Lead - 13/Jun/11 with Martin Court

One fall from misread start.
Dr Toph - Solo RP - 13/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead rpt - 11/Jun/11

First attempt rested twice.
nick ferro - 2nd dog - 11/Jun/11 with Jonathan Aylwin

Second attempt clean!
nick ferro - 2nd rpt - 11/Jun/11 with Jonathan Aylwin

Hidden - 2nd dog - 11/Jun/11

Joe Grondowski - 2nd - 25/May/11 with Lewis Andrew, Tom Churchman

wi11 - Solo dnf - 21/May/11 with Frank C

fell off first go after completely missing the sloper at the end of the hard climbing and couldn't get a number 1 nut out of a crack around the same place, should make it a little less desperate. A great E1, but an even better E2.
Laurence Everitt - Lead RP - 05/May/11 with neil mackie

Hidden - 2nd - 05/May/11

Hidden - Solo - 30/Apr/11

fell off first move a few times, although not warmed up felt really hard for grade and pumpy
Mark Warnett - Lead dog - 30/Apr/11

llamaglama - 2nd RP - 25/Apr/11 with Nick, Jam

suits the name!
JamieSparkes - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/11 with Nick, Claire Holland

Nick1812P - 2nd dog - 25/Apr/11 with Jamie

Somerset swede basher - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/11 with Chris ULMC

Chris Redding - TR dog - 18/Apr/11

Chris Redding - 2nd dog - 18/Apr/11 with Dominic Sellers

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/11

philboy - 2nd - 15/Apr/11 with Tom

davidgent - Lead dnf - 09/Apr/11 with Andy Parsons

JRae - 2nd - 31/Mar/11 with Ollie B

Wanting to do this route for a long while, finally managed the start. Well worth 3* though, brilliant!
Ollie B - Lead O/S - 31/Mar/11 with J.Rae

Lives up to its name! Might have got it clean if hadn't forgotten nut key. Will come back and lead in the future.
RFWilkie - 2nd dog - 27/Mar/11 with James, Kev

Through the crux but couldn't make the reach to the upper break, then foot slipped trying to move up. Excellent moves, will come back!
richardr - Lead dnf - 20/Mar/11

Foot slip right at start
dj_brigham05 - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/11 with Alex Arthur

Chi Cheng - Lead rpt - 08/Mar/11 with Joe Dobson

Hidden - 08/Mar/11

Could not read the move, fell off. Jon took the lead.
Chi Cheng - Lead dnf - 02/Mar/11 with Jon Fane

At 5'4" definitely a 6a move for me. Fell off again on the second. But got to the top. will be back to lead clean.
Chi Cheng - 2nd dog - 02/Mar/11 with Jon Fane

I will take the 6a, im short!!!!
joese7en - 2nd RP - Feb/11

Hidden - Lead - 2011

mwatson - 2011

Dan Mckinlay - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - Dec/10

Good moves up to get your hands in the break (I couldn't reach it without an intermittent (6a?) move) good small cams, then 5c moves up to huge flake and good gear and an easier finish. Very enjoyable moves although the gear could have been a bit higher!
benkelsey - Lead O/S - 13/Nov/10 with Alex Randall

Flash29 - TR - 16/Oct/10

d_meacher - Lead dnf - 16/Oct/10

Ewan Russell - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/10 with Tom Dewhurst

dashitboarder - Sent dnf - 10/Oct/10 with Dad

a bit long!!!! 6a for the short eh
climbing_rocks1983 - 2nd β - 09/Oct/10 with Kieran

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead - 09/Oct/10 with Rachel Briggs

So pleased to finally get this, felt easy with good friction. Superb moves.
Stig - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/10 with Goi

highrepute - Lead rpt - 26/Sep/10

Not feeling it that day. will be back.
nadeem - Lead dnf - 12/Sep/10 with DLE

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/10

Mr Sparkle - 2nd - 05/Sep/10 with Mike Hayes

kermit_uk - Lead dog - Sep/10 with Steve Woolass

Really good route that's pushing E2... and 6a. I'm tall and still found it quite tricky, long legs mean you've got further to go on first couple of rockovers!
Dave Foster - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/10 with Andy

Nick1812P - Lead dnf - 30/Aug/10 with Jamie

HIGHTOWER - 2nd dog - 22/Aug/10 with Pete Staves

Nia spent the afternoon struggling up this on the lead and took some pretty impressive falls from about the break. Top-roped to get the gear back.
Mr. K - TR dog - 15/Aug/10 with Nia Fletcher

nia - Lead dnf - 15/Aug/10 with Kyle Wood

dan gibson - Solo rpt - 03/Aug/10

ewan i - 2nd dog - Aug/10

FlorianCastagne - Lead β - Aug/10 with Nathan Rosenfeld

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Jul/10

chris sm - Lead rpt - 24/Jul/10 with Jon Pearson

feilx - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/10 with Heather

On Swiss Lukas' gear
DaveFidler - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead rpt - 03/Jul/10

mjeffery - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/10

Had messed around on the start of this before, felt easier this time
theotherpetehill - Lead β - 20/Jun/10

Sankey - 2nd dog - 20/Jun/10 with Luke

Actually fell off on my first onsight attempt. First few moves were quite tough, but it was moving off the juggy sloper (bit greasy), but I just didn't have a high enough right foot...meant the sloper just didn't feel good. Clean on second attempt, and a lovely little climb! (first trad fall and 9th lead to date)
rubben - Lead rpt - 05/Jun/10 with Marcus O'Leary

Climbed up and down a few times to work it out, then manned up and did it!
withey - Lead O/S - 19/May/10 with Nick Mattia

Hidden - Solo O/S - 18/May/10

Adam Potter - 2nd - 15/May/10

had to down climb the first couple of moves a couple of times to work it out
willoates - Lead O/S - 04/May/10 with Steve

Hidden - Lead β - May/10

Bern - 2nd - May/10 with Peter Brown

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/10

lukea - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/10 with Al

Nails - did the start and the next move but was too pumped to finish (a few inches before the jug where it eases. TR it to get gear - remind me not to try this after FBD
disturbed_one51 - Lead dnf - 20/Apr/10 with Rob Middleton

Clean after falls.
DannyK - Lead RP - 17/Apr/10 with Katie

Hidden - 2nd β - Apr/10

Hidden - Lead β - Apr/10

duzinga - 2nd dog - 27/Mar/10 with Pete Harris

jumped off the start a few times before trying a different method (going direct rather than left) to gain the break and clean from there. Which got me pumped enough for the jugs after the crux not feel as big as they should of. Cool route
Graeme Hammond - Lead rpt - 27/Mar/10 with Craig

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Mar/10

Brilliant climb, quite pumpy!
Will_Maxwell - Lead O/S - 16/Mar/10 with Alex Erskine, Rafael Pena

Hidden - Solo - 13/Mar/10

Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 12/Mar/10 with Jill Reinsch

Seymore Butt - 2010

Speeddemonsi - Lead O/S - 2010

Sean Kelly - 2010

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2010

Hidden - 02/Nov/09

Hidden - 2nd RP - 18/Oct/09

excellent, really pumpy.
Milne - 2nd O/S - 08/Oct/09 with dave saxby

Russ - 2nd β - 08/Oct/09 with Dave Saxby

Simon Davenport - Lead dnf - 04/Oct/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - Oct/09

simon1965 - 2nd - 23/Sep/09 with peakdj

Hidden - Lead rpt - 23/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead rpt - 16/Sep/09

gregoritos - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/09 with John Hall

done many times, think the first was around this time, maybe 2008
Alex@home - Lead O/S - Sep/09 with The Doctor

Hidden - Solo - 31/Aug/09

Hidden - Solo rpt - 27/Aug/09

mic_b - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/09 with mrsbate

Paul tried to lead and couldn't. I could, but only with bypassing the hard start and traversing in from the right. This alternative is still E1/5c, with the direct start being 6a and maybe E2! Hard for an E1, for sure, and very height dependant; if you're 6'3+, you'll reach the break!
ebf - TR dog - 08/Aug/09 with Paul Stephenson

Hidden - 2nd dog - 08/Aug/09

chris sm - 2nd rpt - 25/Jul/09 with Pippa Froggatt

TonyF - 2nd - 15/Jul/09 with Paul Threthewey

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Jul/09

Hidden - Lead rpt - 05/Jul/09

Tim M - Lead O/S - Jul/09 with Emma

climbergg - 2nd - Jul/09 with cheesesarnie

Shauna - 2nd O/S - 25/Jun/09 with Jules

andi turner - Lead O/S - 28/May/09 with Mark Sharratt

Mark D - Lead O/S - 28/May/09 with Tom Green

TGreen - 2nd O/S - 28/May/09 with Mark D

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Apr/09

Ralphie_coombs - TR dog - 04/Apr/09 with Malcolm Coombs

gronbech - 2nd β - 15/Mar/09 with Tom

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Mar/09

Hidden - Lead - 01/Mar/09

Jethro - Solo - Mar/09

GPN - Lead dog - 21/Feb/09 with Annette


bexyboo - 2nd - 2009

plain kitten - Lead - 2009

Failed to get started on this one. Watched a guy solo it later, one to go back for now I have the beta
Shaw Brown - Lead dnf - 19/Oct/08 with annette

Tez29 - Lead dog - 13/Oct/08 with Mousey

Andrew Barker - 2nd O/S - 10/Oct/08 with Dave Pattinson

Did at end of long day thinking it would be ok - what a mistake! Got pretty pumped trying to work out best sequence for leaving the midway break. Really hard crux but good gear!
derico - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/08 with Bandy

Dan 85 - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/08 with Alexander

Brown - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/08 with Bridget

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Sep/08

Must have tried the start about 10 times and finally got it, just. Couldn't reach the break with foot on the good foothold so had to do a very tenuous move - seemed very hard for 5c. Then missed the obvoius hold used to get past the break and got pumped trying out improbable moves so had to have a rest. Finally unexpectedly fell off just below gear once past the break. Need to go back and do clean!
Misha - Lead dog - 13/Sep/08

Hidden - Lead dnf - 13/Sep/08

Hidden - 2nd dog - 13/Sep/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/08

This was a long time coming, never felt comfortable with cracks
Gambit - Lead RP - 21/Jul/08 with Paul

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 27/Jun/08

Hidden - Lead rpt - 24/Jun/08

Harder than I remember - not one I should have soloed.
alaan - Solo rpt - 09/Jun/08

Skell - Lead O/S - 31/May/08 with Kelvin

Oh so close to an onsight, grabbed gear with my teeth to rest my arms for a few moments before making the moves to gain the crack. Bloody hard!
Andy Moles - Lead dog - 18/May/08 with Rozzy

Guy Wilson - 2nd dnf - 11/May/08 with Twisty

Managed first sequence, the supposedly 6a start, clean onsight. Then because of sweat, last route of the day and burning heat, fingers couldnt stick the finger jam crack to get up to the jug. Took a couple of falls, then just grimaced and made it through! One to lead clean!
Twisty - Lead dog - 11/May/08 with Guy Wilson

bouldered the starting moves
SecretSquirrel - Sent dnf - 03/May/08 with Nick Smith

Nicos - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/08 with simon shaw

Hidden - Solo O/S - 13/Feb/08

Hidden - 2008

Hidden - 2008

tricky start!
markpollak - Lead O/S - 2008 with suzanne mcfadzean

Hidden - 2008

mshorter - Lead - 12/Nov/07 with jen

Ram MkiV - Solo - 11/Oct/07 with reeve

sparkass - Lead O/S - Oct/07 with Mike Shorter

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 05/Sep/07

Phenomenally aptly named. Has to be the hardest E1 I know (or was, before doing Ice Boat)
Pythonist - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/07 with DaveDJ

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/07

Coel Hellier - Lead - Sep/07

btc - 2nd - 02/Aug/07 with ian lovatt

Hidden - Lead dog - 28/Jul/07

Took a few falls before remembering how to do the first moves. Eventually managed it clean from the ground, but it was a struggle.
Chris the Tall - 2nd - 28/Jul/07 with Nick Smith

Tricky start, found way after a few tries, hard to place gear after first break and 2nd so climbed through, felt more E2 6a.
Ian Broome - Lead - 28/Jul/07 with Matt

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 11/Jul/07

Hidden - Lead rpt - 07/Jul/07

btc - TR - 06/Jul/07 with Dan B

Hidden - Lead RP - 01/Jul/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/07

Hidden - 10/Jun/07

Hidden - 2nd - 21/May/07

nai - Lead - 22/Apr/07 with Chris

Monk - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/07 with Matt B, Kylie, Mandy

Joe Costello - Lead β - 13/Apr/07 with James

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - Apr/07 with Ben Harper

alaan - Lead O/S - 18/Feb/07 with Dave

Hidden - 2nd β - 04/Feb/07

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Feb/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Feb/07

Rob Kennard - 2007

Hidden - 2007

jamesturnbull - 2007

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2007

Hidden - 2007

Ethan - Lead O/S - 2007 with Ben Humphris, Don Walker

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Oct/06

SteveM - Lead dnf - 08/Oct/06 with Tobs

Hidden - Lead - Sep/06

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Solo O/S - 24/Jun/06

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 16/May/06

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/06 with martina

Hidden - Lead - 04/Apr/06

dan gibson - 2006

French Erick - AltLd - 04/Sep/05 with Dave Kerr

Dave Kerr - AltLd - 03/Sep/05 with Erick Baillot

found it quite steady good fun nice b prob start
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - Aug/05 with Steve Ramsden

Couldn`t get off the ground seconding in early climbing career 2003. Fell off after standing in break two years later, stripped and led through, ground up. Tough and very technical, an excellent `know you earned it` E1 tick
Cragrat Rich - Lead - May/05

Hidden - Lead dnf - May/05

Hidden - Lead - May/05

Daniel Armitage - Lead RP - 02/Apr/05

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2005

Rik Dawes - Lead O/S - 2005

Chris M - 2005

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/04

Hidden - Lead - 05/Aug/04

willackers - Solo O/S - 2004 with John Atkinson

shoulders - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/03 with paul

Hidden - Lead RP - Jun/03

Dave Bond - Lead O/S - 28/May/03 with Rich Hatton

Hidden - Lead - 08/May/03

Hidden - Solo O/S - 20/Apr/03

bigphil - Lead - 12/Apr/03

Paz - Lead - Apr/03 with MH

DubyaJamesDubya - Lead O/S - 22/Feb/03 with Julian (C+C)

phardman - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/02

Hidden - TR - 08/Aug/02

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 17/Jun/02

chris sm - 2nd dog - 12/May/02

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Feb/02

Jon Greengrass - 2nd β - 2002 with reeeve

Hidden - Lead dog - 17/Nov/01

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Jun/01

Hidden - TR - 22/May/01

TonyF - Lead - 22/May/01 with Andy Neath

Hidden - 2nd - 09/May/01

Hidden - 2nd O/S - May/01

kp64zl - Lead dog - May/01 with Warrick

Hidden - Lead - 13/Jan/01

Rock Fairy - 2nd - 2001

Rock Fairy - 2nd - 2001

Rock Fairy - 2nd - 2001

Boy - Oct/00

Hidden - TR - 19/Jul/00

Hidden - Lead - 24/May/00

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Apr/00

Hidden - Lead - 18/Mar/00

cornishben - 2nd O/S - Jan/00 with Ben Raymond

Hidden - Lead - 2000

tlr - Lead - 2000

jonka - Lead - 2000

Hidden - 2000

Urgles - Lead O/S - 2000

tuftynick - Lead - 2000

nige - 2000

akhughes - 2000

NeilGriffiths - Lead - 26/Jun/99 with Simon Frost

NeilGriffiths - Lead - 26/Jun/99 with Simon Frost

CrashMat Rob - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/99 with Nicky

buxtoncoffeelover - 2nd - 05/Jun/99

frost - 2nd - Jun/99 with N Griffiths

Hidden - 2nd - 03/May/99

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/98 with Dad

Dave Musgrove - 2nd - Apr/98 with David

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Feb/98

Chris Reid - Solo O/S - 05/Jul/97 with Dave Plummer

Jon Read - Lead O/S - 1997

Hidden - Lead RP - May/96

Scott McRae - Lead RP - 20/Apr/96 with Graham Proctor

rob.grafton - Lead - 10/Feb/96 with Bruce

Hidden - Lead - 22/Oct/95

Hidden - 08/Aug/95

John Southworth - Solo O/S - 16/Jul/95

Rich Kirby - Lead - 26/May/95

leathers - 1995

Daniel Wrightson - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/94 with Richard Bradbury

Dave Mountford - TR - 12/Aug/94 with Damon Heath

Hidden - Lead - 07/Jul/94

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/94

mattnuttall - Solo O/S - 30/Apr/94

D Tempest - Solo - 31/Oct/93 with Rick

Neil R - Lead - 05/Jun/93 with Richard W

Hidden - Lead - 29/May/93

mikedelderfield - 2nd O/S - 01/May/93 with Steven Delderfield

IanD353 - Lead O/S - 1993

Steve Crowe - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/92 with KM

Hidden - Lead - 21/Jun/92

ste_d - Lead O/S - 24/May/92 with mik

WB - Lead O/S - 1992

whispering nic - Solo - 20/Oct/91 with Ali W

Laramadness - Lead dog - 30/Aug/91

Hidden - Lead - 30/Jul/91

Roget - Solo rpt - 23/Jun/91

Hidden - 2nd dog - 12/May/91

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/91 with Phil Bent

steve taylor - 2nd - Mar/91 with Steve Williams

ChrisJD - Lead - 30/Jun/90

lithos - 2nd O/S - May/90 with martin brown

Neil R - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/90 with Richard W

Marti999 - Lead - 1990

Hidden - Lead - 04/Oct/89

Hidden - Lead rpt - Jul/89

phardman - Solo O/S - 03/Jun/89 with John Lloyd

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Jan/89

Roget - 2nd O/S - 1989 with jim

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/88

tapley - 2nd - 21/Aug/88

shark - Solo - 27/Sep/87

sadams - Solo - Sep/87 with Guy Townsend

Hidden - Lead - 01/Jul/87

Mike Owen - Solo - 18/May/87

John Marsland - Lead - 19/Jul/86

Hidden - Lead - 26/Apr/86

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1986

Hidden - Lead - 1986

KRB - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/85 with Neil Gregory

mike bridges - TR O/S - 31/Aug/85 with Kevin Bridges

Hidden - Lead - 03/Jun/85

Hidden - Lead - 29/May/85

Hidden - Solo - 1985

TonyF - Solo - 01/Sep/84 with Tony Cox

Hidden - Lead - 14/Apr/84

Tricky start and middle. A definitive grit E1 perhaps.
stp - Solo O/S - 03/Mar/84

steve L - Lead - 19/Nov/83 with Alan Dance, Alun Richardson

Mark Kemball - Lead - 04/May/83 with Paul Clark

Dave Musgrove - 23/Oct/82 with Andy Wild

Andy Fielding - 2nd - 1982 with Steve Hartland

Hidden - Solo O/S - Nov/80

Mike Owen - 24/Aug/80 with Dave Ellison, Elaine Watson

Hidden - Lead - 22/Jun/80

mark-abz - TR - 06/Apr/80 with Mick D

Mark Kemball - Solo - 01/Mar/80

Chris Craggs - Solo - 1980

andy gittins - 1979

Used to do the start as a party-piece, could not make any sense of it in 2015, nearly 40 years later!
petemeads - Lead - 1976

Canyak - 1973

Hidden - TR - 03/Oct/65

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Total votes cast 384
hard E21 of 138
E22 of 138
easy E263 of 138
hard E145 of 138
E126 of 138
easy E11 of 138
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easy HVS0 of 138
hard 6b0 of 138
6b0 of 138
easy 6b0 of 138
hard 6a0 of 138
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easy 6a65 of 138
hard 5c49 of 138
5c13 of 138
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3 Stars76 of 108
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean G/U
Clean RP