There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
The central line. Climb the wide chimney to the roof and shuffle left. Easier climbing leads past the overhang to the final chimney. A few slings may be useful. © Rockfax
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , 14 In A Day , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak Rock/2/ The Search For Difficulty Begins. , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , WideBoyz Crack School , Stanage Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Popular , Severe Stanage , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Pixies Lightweight Bowline CC - VS Challenge - Stanage , Stanage 1956
User | Date | Notes | ||
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cragtyke | 23 Mar, 2022 |
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βeta: with Cold Turkey flake start VS 4c? | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: with Cold Turkey flake start VS 4c? |
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SuePearson | 31 May, 2019 |
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βeta: Really nice moves to get established | βeta? | |
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βeta: Really nice moves to get established |
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fast eddie | 10 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: Quite a friendly VS if you don't mind the first exposed bit if you take the route out from the cave. Good gear and good clean fun. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Quite a friendly VS if you don't mind the first exposed bit if you take the route out from the cave. Good gear and good clean fun. |
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Jon Greengrass | 8 Oct, 2003 |
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βeta: for maximum enjoymnet, climb all the way to the top of the chimney then shuffle back to the lip bridging wide on overhead fist jams. Pull throught the lip and arm bar your way to glory. | ||
Show beta
βeta: for maximum enjoymnet, climb all the way to the top of the chimney then shuffle back to the lip bridging wide on overhead fist jams. Pull throught the lip and arm bar your way to glory. |
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Nick Smith - Climbers | 23 Mar, 2003 |
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βeta: A great route, with some interesting and varied climbing. Watch out for the hollybush that lurks above the overhang! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: A great route, with some interesting and varied climbing. Watch out for the hollybush that lurks above the overhang! |
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Grade: VS 4c ***
(Kinder Downfall)