Schertelplatte* 6a
675m, 14 pitches. UIAA-grade VI+. A long, committing route which is difficult to escape, so wait for good weather! The first steep pitches lead to the eponymous hanging slab, which has one steep VI+ move to access. The slab climbing itself is wonderfully delicate, followed by a chimney at the RHS. Unfortunately, the climbing peters out after this and routes follows very loose rock for a good few pitches through III to V territory. The harder pitches are very well bolted, but the upper loose pitches are not. In fact there are some 50m gaps with no bolts and no decent gear but plenty of loose rock. The belay stances are all equipped with double bolts though.
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Really committing, and with some tough moves to boot! Shame about all the loose rock after the slab pitches and the lack of protection available there. Still a brilliant adventure though.
crossdressingrodney - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/07 with rob

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