UKC

16m.

Rockfax Description
A route of contrasts and the start is very hard for the short. Swing out right to jugs and a ledge on the front face. Move up awkwardly then step left on to the narrow side face and climb this delicately by lovely moves in great positions. © Rockfax

FA. Don Whillans 1958. FA. (BM) Giles Barker 1976.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Stanage 3 Star HVS's - Eastern Grit , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Ultimate HVS ticklist , Brown & Whillans Stanage , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Popular , Severe Stanage , Stanage HVS Challenge - All the 3* , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , Big trad grit list , LMC Lady Crushers 3* Extravaganza , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , 3* HVS at Bamford, Stanage, Burbage, Millstone, Froggatt, and Curbar , 28 3 Stars For 28 In The Peak , The Eal List

Feedback

User Date Notes
Stanley 18 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Great fun, powerful start, then good slab above. Had looked at it before but thought it might be a bit bold. Had an opportunity to follow Joey up, would definitely lead now.
Show beta
βeta: Great fun, powerful start, then good slab above. Had looked at it before but thought it might be a bit bold. Had an opportunity to follow Joey up, would definitely lead now.
Fraser kid 11 Nov, 2017 Show βeta
βeta: First two thirds great, top third disgustingly green and desperate, not sure if I strayed into the E2 to the left. The top shelve was dripping in green slime, not pleasant.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First two thirds great, top third disgustingly green and desperate, not sure if I strayed into the E2 to the left. The top shelve was dripping in green slime, not pleasant.
rayash 21 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: worth three stars , start looks impossible until it clicks into place ....or not , really nice moves above , good friction etc etc
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: worth three stars , start looks impossible until it clicks into place ....or not , really nice moves above , good friction etc etc
fenclimb 25 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: And does the person who showed you how to do the start not get any credit Si :p
Show beta
βeta: And does the person who showed you how to do the start not get any credit Si :p
Si dH 17 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Absolutely gorgeous route. Start looks impossible until you work it out! Lovely climbing at the crux with adequate gear :)
Show beta
βeta: Absolutely gorgeous route. Start looks impossible until you work it out! Lovely climbing at the crux with adequate gear :)

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 122
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 117
Votes cast 124
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Ground Up
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Alcove Crack

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(New Mills Torrs)

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