|Derek the Shaman||VS 4c|
|35m. For the next route abseil to ledges 4m above the sea and 5m right of the hole to heaven. From the stance traverse 3m right and climb direct on perfect juggy rock to enter the yellow lichen covered grooves immediately right of the obvious open book corner. (This route appears as a line of thin flakes from the opposite promontory).
M Radtke, I Cooksey 29/May/2001