There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
The left-hand crack has a hard start using polished footholds and thin finger-jams. Although hard it takes good small wires. © Rockfax
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Bouldering cracks , Stanage Popular red circuit
User | Date | Notes | ||
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NJH | 20 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: Don't think this is nearly as well-protected as it looks like it should be. There are signs of wear so maybe the placements have deteriorated. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Don't think this is nearly as well-protected as it looks like it should be. There are signs of wear so maybe the placements have deteriorated. |
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Paul Tomo | 10 Jun, 2007 |
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βeta: This route is a boulder problem with gear placements, nice route but to short | βeta? | |
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βeta: This route is a boulder problem with gear placements, nice route but to short |
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jl100 | 22 Apr, 2007 |
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βeta: Not 5c. great protection all the way ad easy to place. It has a couple of 5a/5b moves at the bottom. Good fun, did it in the dark. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Not 5c. great protection all the way ad easy to place. It has a couple of 5a/5b moves at the bottom. Good fun, did it in the dark. |
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MNA123 | 4 May, 2005 |
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βeta: Good route wasn't happy with my gear though till a 3rd of the way up i encountered a bomber friend placement,agree with the spotter comment. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Good route wasn't happy with my gear though till a 3rd of the way up i encountered a bomber friend placement,agree with the spotter comment. |
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Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Stanage North)