UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

10m.

Rockfax Description
The left-hand crack has a hard start using polished footholds and thin finger-jams. Although hard it takes good small wires. © Rockfax

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Bouldering cracks , Stanage Popular red circuit

Feedback

User Date Notes
NJH 20 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Don't think this is nearly as well-protected as it looks like it should be. There are signs of wear so maybe the placements have deteriorated.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Don't think this is nearly as well-protected as it looks like it should be. There are signs of wear so maybe the placements have deteriorated.
Paul Tomo 10 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: This route is a boulder problem with gear placements, nice route but to short
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This route is a boulder problem with gear placements, nice route but to short
jl100 22 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Not 5c. great protection all the way ad easy to place. It has a couple of 5a/5b moves at the bottom. Good fun, did it in the dark.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not 5c. great protection all the way ad easy to place. It has a couple of 5a/5b moves at the bottom. Good fun, did it in the dark.
MNA123 4 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Good route wasn't happy with my gear though till a 3rd of the way up i encountered a bomber friend placement,agree with the spotter comment.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good route wasn't happy with my gear though till a 3rd of the way up i encountered a bomber friend placement,agree with the spotter comment.

Logged Ascents

1043 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Stanage Popular

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 85
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 89
Votes cast 73
Style of Ascent
Lead
Soloed
Followed
Toproped
Bouldered
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Blurter

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Stanage North)

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