500m, 15 pitches. 2b, 3b or 4a (1 p.a. 5b), _, 5a (2 p.a. 6a), 5a+, 4a, 4a, 3b, 4a, 4a, 4a, 4a, 3a, 3a, 4b

F. Delisle, Ch. Rathgeb 1927

Daveyc86 27/Aug AltLd O/S

What a route - my first alpine route of this size and the situation is fantastic. Having done some research in to the route I thought it worth leaving a note for others as there are some big errors in what is reported. 1) The walk down does take about 2 hours - their is a 300m ridge walk across the length of the mirror to escape this takes nerves if you are tired and not roped up! 2) Miss the 2nd and third to last pitches. Go up the 4b from direct! The 3a's are easy if dry, but if it has rained in the last few days the penultimate one is akin to ice skating. Not advised without some trad gear. 3) We did this on bank holiday weekend in august and it was very busy. Even if your route is quiet most routes funnel to the one pitch to finish so can end up queuing - set of early to avoid the crowds. We set off at first light and were still not back at the car for 11 hours due to queuing. We all lead vs / hvs comfortably and it wasnt the climbing that made us slow - it was other climbers. 4) Enjoy the view. 5) Do not take nuts - really not needed. DMM Cams 0 - 4 were very useful to just create a few extra runners however.

with Al
alan.phobos 27/Aug AltLd O/S

Great route. Not much to add to Dave's excellent summary. Aided the obvious crux 6a(ish) move (just over the top of the steep section at the start of p3) as old piton to stand on is far too tempting. The rest was climbed clean. The route crosses another busy line mid-pitch near the end on easy ground, so watch for that. Best pitch for me was p4 with superb 5a-ish sustained climbing for 20-30m on slim but just sufficient holds. The bar at the bottom has excellent fondue and great views.

with Dave C
mlcumberlidge 24/Aug AltLd

Absolutely stunning climbing. My first alpine route. Took a long time to find the way down and descended most of the way in the dark

cacheson 23/Aug AltLd O/S

Fantastic route, though the Direct is even better

with Tom FP
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
guy127917 01/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
petellis ?/Sep/15 -
M.Hallen ?/Sep/15 AltLd G/U

One difficult move.

Rob84 03/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Great route - steady climbing and you can move quickly as long as you're happy with fairly spaced bolts. The descent down the ravine is a total ball ache and longer than you think, but worth it for such an amenable route up a huge and impressive chunk of rock.

with Mel
Hidden 22/Jul/15 AltLd
MatthewH 20/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Quite an experience being on a such a vast piece of rock.

garethm 01/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Aug/14 -
Alex_RhodesUK 27/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with Dave Willey, Tal Niv
abbeywall 18/Jul/14 AltLd

Done in 13 pitches as joined directe 4a, 4c finish and despite doing pitch 1 as two short pitches. Led half of 1, 2, 3, 4, 6 , 8, 10, and 4c pitch as 13th pitch. The aid bit on p3 is not an overhang as I expected. The easy overhang (massive holds and 2 good bolts) leads to a smooth slab where you can pull on the q draw to get your feet across to the next q draw which you can also pull on. Didn't. need to do this but stood on the piton which seemed to be in the way of a foothold you want to use on the slab. P 4 a superb crack line. Spaced bolting apart from the crux at p3

with K
Hidden 31/Aug/13 AltLd
John Carney ?/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Sara C
Hidden 17/Sep/12 -
Hidden 24/Jun/12 2nd
Hidden 30/Jul/11 AltLd
Hidden 03/Jul/11 AltLd
Hidden ??/2011 -
jonathannewth 02/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
with Elliot W, Chris W, William W
Pete23 ?/Aug/10 2nd
liz j ?/Jun/10 -
with graeme livingston
petegunn 23/Aug/09 AltLd
with Davina
Hidden 23/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
tractorbachcoch 03/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with Steve Jones (ISM), Teresa
Lady T 03/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with Steve Jones (ISM), Iwan
existing debt ?/Aug/07 -
with Iain a
Valaisan 17/Sep/06 AltLd O/S
with Jean-Patrick Baudet (UIAGM)
biggianthead 15/Jul/05 -

Be prepared for aid moves

with T
tjekel ??/2005 -
Tony Ryland 05/Aug/04 -
jamie ward 10/Jul/02 AltLd O/S
with Tony Buj
Paul-Michael 20/Sep/00 AltLd O/S

Giuded ISM lead last three pitches.

with Steve Monks (ISM)
Hidden 21/Aug/00 2nd
Celia Watson 21/Aug/00 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/00 -
Hidden ??/1999 AltLd O/S
Maarten2 27/Aug/94 AltLd

Did use the aid points at the lower pitches - these are the hardest pitches, and not warmed up yet. Rest is brilliant, great views and, as far as I can remember, an easy walking descent. With using aid not harder than 5a or so, maybe even easier.

with Kitti
Hidden 11/Aug/93 Lead
djdavies 08/Jul/93 2nd
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