Rockfax Description
An exciting route across the left-hand side of the roof. Climb the slab to the curving flake in the overhang, then using fat jams (large cam protection) trend to the right to finish just right of the nose on good holds. © Rockfax

FA. Gary Gibson 1978

Ticklists: Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Stanage E1 Challenge (1989 Guide), Pete's 150 Peak Extremes.

Hidden 20/Oct Lead
GPN 04/Oct Lead
with Annette
Mark Grist 23/Aug Lead O/S
with Tom Doldon
RosePearson 23/Aug Lead O/S

Rescuing some other peoples gear. Nice and relaxed.

with Laurence Knowles
Sam Simpson 23/Jun Lead O/S
with Paul Wood, Tom Doldon
Laurence Everitt 16/Jun Lead O/S
HazelMacLean 16/Jun 2nd dog

So overhanging! Don't need jamming but prepare to be pumped.

oread 04/May Lead β

Lead, previously seconded last yr

danflyingman 02/May 2nd RP
pearson9596 13/Dec/14 Lead dog
RKirke 01/Nov/14 2nd O/S
with Banksy
Albachoss 01/Nov/14 Lead O/S
cf2g08 12/Oct/14 TR dog
with Iain
kyaizawa 01/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Emma Reynolds 01/Sep/14 2nd O/S
rurp 13/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Hard work after the one next door!

with Alex bacon
Rachel Slater 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S

A little harder than FBD and equally as good.

James Oswald ?/Jun/14 2nd O/S

Seconded, amazing route. Easier but better than FBD.

Hidden 03/May/14 TR O/S
oread 19/Apr/14 2nd
RKernan 15/Apr/14 Lead dog

one fall, one rest. one move before a double knee bar. D'oh, next time.

with Lisa Davison
ldavison440 15/Apr/14 2nd
Hidden 12/Apr/14 2nd O/S
pie_eater_pete 05/Mar/14 Lead
with bwestwood
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
drysori 23/Nov/13 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 04/Nov/13 Lead O/S
with Jonny P
MartinPL 20/Oct/13 Lead O/S
elyben 20/Oct/13 Lead
stevorobs3 20/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Climber1806 15/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with George Morris
Stanners 13/Aug/13 Lead O/S

A wild vertical voyage!

with James Rich, Jack Bradbrook
JamesRich 13/Aug/13 2nd dnf
Quarryboy 13/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Easy if you just unleash the beast within.

jwpil 06/Jun/13 2nd rpt
with Jake
Jake Young 06/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Jack
Hidden 01/Jun/13 2nd β
Hidden 31/Mar/13 Lead O/S
DanOsb 28/Feb/13 2nd

good holds. good rest.

w.pettet-smith ?/Feb/13 Lead O/S

well protected, a couple of nice udges

Gudge ?/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Pete Staves
jwpil 28/Aug/12 Lead O/S

This seemed as easy, if not easier than FBD, its good though.

with Jon
deacondeacon 28/Aug/12 Lead O/S
simonp ?/May/12 Lead O/S
with Annelies Sarrazyn
mark20 30/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Daniel Heath 24/Mar/12 2nd O/S


with Alun
Andy Moles 18/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Rob
Andy Peak 1 10/Mar/12 Lead

I had a nice lye down on the big ledge after the heel huck.

with random
67hours 10/Mar/12 2nd

Fell off for the 2nd time today. Ha.

robgixer ??/2012 Lead O/S
Adam Booth 13/Nov/11 Lead O/S


Ed Booth 13/Nov/11 2nd O/S

wet. Anna did the slab one handed.

Hidden 06/Nov/11 2nd β
Climber1806 ?/Nov/11 Lead β
Hidden 16/Oct/11 Lead dnf
Cake 14/Sep/11 Lead dnf

Oh dear. But was I as motivated as I was for FBD?

with Matt
Skell 25/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Fantastic climb, loved the moves, definitely worth 3 stars.

with Jules
Tony Holdsworth 17/Aug/11 2nd rpt
with Peter Harris
cobweb 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with martyn hopson
morganator 08/Jun/11 Lead
with Jake Morgan, James Hall
Hidden 13/Apr/11 2nd
Phill Mitch 07/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with gaz
Tony Holdsworth 24/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Ian Holtby
Hidden 23/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Alex@home ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S

thought the climbing on this was every bit as good as on FBD

with The Doctor
jfane ??/2011 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Dec/10 -
Hidden 19/Nov/10 Lead
colkurtz 19/Nov/10 2nd
with Robb
Ahab 07/Nov/10 Lead β
Jack Loftus 24/Oct/10 2nd
with Nick
Hidden 24/Oct/10 Lead O/S
nadeem 12/Sep/10 Lead dnf

Bit of a fucking epic, placed gear in the wrong place, tangled my ropes up and then it started to rain. had to make a speedy retreat via a bit of air time to the slab. will be back for it

with Davey
Spence22 27/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Wil
PeteH 31/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Awesome! At least as good as Flying Buttress Direct, if you ask me.

with Craig + Sarah
Hidden 16/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S
MorganPreece 16/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Haha couldunt stop laughing when doing the mantle!

with Jessy and Solo
Climber1806 16/Apr/10 2nd β

fun route good holds.

with Morgan Preece
beeson_paul 17/Mar/10 2nd

leader had an epic and bit of pannick attack at top but all fine :)

jon clayton 11/Mar/10 Lead
with Paul Beeson
Pown 02/Mar/10 2nd O/S
Pete Graham 02/Mar/10 Lead
GuyVG 24/Sep/09 Lead β

excellent climb

with mikey b
nai 17/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Mel
Ketu 07/Sep/09 Lead dnf
with Nigel
Graeme Hammond 03/Aug/09 Lead O/S

straight forward enough, although more steep than FBD its not quite as well protected (more E1 than FBD is) But its all over very quickly just pull hard and rock over onto jugs!

with luke
gazfellows 25/Jul/09 2nd
Hidden 08/Jul/09 Lead
tuftynick ?/Apr/09 Lead rpt
with pob
JIMJIM ?/Apr/09 2nd O/S
HamishD 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with chris burn
Alex Mason 04/Mar/09 Lead

Failed too second 3yrs ago (no idea how). No harder moves than FBD but the crux is above gear. (first route with GVG, whoop!)

with Guy VG
GuyVG 04/Mar/09 2nd O/S

Didn't think for a second I would pull through the overlaps at the end of a long day but went well and will be back for lead. good climbing by the mason.

with Mikey, Mick and Al
Twisty 01/Mar/09 Lead β

Wicked route, with lots of small foot adjustments between each handhold, which made for a pleasant climb!

with Byron Buck
Byronius Maximus 01/Mar/09 2nd
SGD ??/2009 2nd

2nd Dave, this is good

with DW2
Hidden 17/Oct/08 Lead
Slatehead 20/Aug/08 2nd O/S

Just about as hard as FBD

with Sean Jacobs
Hidden 24/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Twisty 11/May/08 Lead dnf

Took 4 falls, way too hot, know I can do the moves- and one to go and get cleanly!

with Byron Buck
Hidden ??/2008 -
jamiev 31/Jul/07 2nd β

lovely despite the attack of the midges

with Kenta Tanaka
Hidden 07/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Mattyk 07/Jul/07 2nd

i rolled/mantled fully onto the ledge above the overhang before reaching up made it easier and less of a giant stretch

with Ali K
Hidden 10/Jun/07 -
AJ007 24/Apr/07 2nd dog
dan gibson 24/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with AJ
Pythonist 21/Feb/07 Lead O/S

Great roof route. Slightly harder than FBD (E1, not HVS), but just as much fun.

Nicos 30/Jan/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2007 -
Pete Graham ??/2007 2nd
with Ben Smith
01wills 04/Sep/06 Lead O/S

good climb

with David Radly
Ram MkiV 12/May/06 Lead O/S

didn't have to use any fist jams. Did however use a kind of toe jam.

with Alex, Dan & Tony
Boy ??/2006 -
dan gibson ??/2006 -
Cragrat Rich ?/Jun/05 Lead O/S

Overhanging grit thuggery. Massively inferior to Flying Buttress Direct

Hidden ?/Jun/05 Lead O/S
willackers ??/2005 2nd β
with Rob Napier
Hidden 29/Mar/03 Lead O/S
uphillnow 24/Mar/03 Lead rpt

Great route, even got a rest in middle - hang off left arm (think it was left!) and lay bum leg almost horizontal - must do it again then I might remember how I got the rest!

with mat allatt
Hidden 21/Sep/02 Lead O/S
mcb ??/2002 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 -
nige ??/2000 -
Gilgar ??/1999 2nd
with Ryan Edwards, Duncan Barrack
Hidden 11/Jan/98 2nd rpt
Hidden 23/Nov/97 Lead O/S
goi.ashmore 20/Sep/97 Lead O/S
with Myles Jordan
Roget 25/Jan/97 Lead O/S
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, DanChad, gavinpeach, Hidden, Hidden, Benn A, ChrisBrooke, JanBella, stvredmond, Hidden, johnpr, Hidden, Steve Waters, Mynydd, AndyFrank, Hidden, PanzerHanzler, tatz45
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 24
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 19
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set