Rockfax Description
In the back of the gully is a narrow buttress. Climb the bold wall to the capping overhang and then sneak off rightwards below the final overhangs. The direct finish is Malarete, VS 4c. © Rockfax

FA. Eric Byne 1950

Ticklists: Stanage Routes BMC Graded List.

Rebecca North 31/Oct 2nd O/S

Not fun

martin48 20/Oct Lead O/S
with Chris
Hidden 10/Oct Lead O/S
FlavioL1989 16/Aug Solo O/S
Pete_Frost 08/Aug Solo O/S
Alex Newton 22/Jul Lead O/S
ChrisVickers 21/Jul 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Jul Lead O/S
ian d f 10/Jul Solo O/S
Mayaculpa 30/Jun TR
with Mike Rotraxion
mattprince 20/Jun Solo O/S
Tom Last 21/May Solo
MSchobitz 18/Apr Solo O/S
Col Kingshott 09/Apr Lead O/S
jpksalmon 25/Mar Lead O/S

Lower part of the climb was soloing as is unprotected. Crux after ledge took a number of attempts but still did it clean.

with Paul
Cristal Escalade ??/2015 2nd O/S
with Chris Matthews
tommccluskey 03/Dec/14 Solo O/S
cookie-doo 03/Dec/14 Solo
BDC 03/Dec/14 Solo
with Anna
terri.lea-hunter ?/Dec/14 2nd
oli2wd 09/Nov/14 2nd

with Alice - very green and wet!

JRJones 09/Nov/14 Lead O/S

Finished on Malarete

Robbiobaby 05/Oct/14 Lead O/S
harry_lewis 21/Sep/14 Solo
babymoac 13/Sep/14 Lead
with Dan Sanderson, Rachel
pog100 31/Aug/14 Lead
with Cath Walton
Jake Richardson 18/Aug/14 Lead
Alasdair88 06/Aug/14 Solo O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/14 Solo O/S
meltdown34 19/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Doug91 19/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Matt
stefelafel 13/Jun/14 Lead
Hidden 05/Jun/14 Lead O/S
tom bre 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/May/14 Solo O/S
sgl 16/May/14 Solo
Hidden 04/May/14 Solo O/S
Easternbrown 04/May/14 TR
Brown 24/Apr/14 Solo
with Lilifa
Dafydd Llywelyn 19/Apr/14 Solo O/S
Hidden 06/Apr/14 Solo O/S
Hidden 29/Mar/14 2nd
Ron 11/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Helen, Clive, Pete
Alex_Derbyshire 06/Mar/14 Lead
Markheighton 06/Mar/14 2nd
Leonhamnett 22/Feb/14 Lead O/S
GuitarGenius92 22/Feb/14 Lead O/S
jonathan_doyle 22/Feb/14 2nd O/S

Little protection. Nice overhang where I had to cut loose to get a high foot. Almost had my first outdoor fall and my right hand popped coming up the overhang. Hands were numb. fun climb.

with Andriy Kobzarenko, Leon Hammet
Dan Arkle ??/2014 -
JakeWShaw 19/Dec/13 Solo O/S
with Shaun, Jem
Tithe Technique 25/Nov/13 Lead rpt
valentinesbabe 25/Nov/13 TR rpt

Not too bad with one hand, had to use other hand a bit at the top but no problem. Again I thought I'd led this before, but not according to the logbook. Will have to have a look in my guidebook and see if I've missed logging a day.

charley 25/Nov/13 2nd O/S
with Kev
Mayaculpa 08/Oct/13 Lead

Tried the VS 4c finish, next time maybe.

davidalcock 08/Oct/13 2nd
mapperley samurai 29/Sep/13 2nd
with Ben Moss
Bede 08/Sep/13 Lead
mky77 08/Sep/13 2nd
JP78 08/Sep/13 Solo dnf
Hardcore Pat 04/Sep/13 Solo β
Jonny M 28/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jul/13 2nd
JenRoberts 25/Jun/13 2nd β
with Lee, Rhys
rbharries 25/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with jen peanut, lee
jshields 19/Jun/13 Solo
colin milton 10/Jun/13 Solo
HaddRoots 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S
nrhardy 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Ross Young 07/Jun/13 2nd O/S
mhamiltonj 07/Jun/13 Lead dnf
Hidden 07/Jun/13 2nd
Hidden 01/Jun/13 Solo O/S
danny269 01/Jun/13 -
with Keir
leeoftroy ?/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/May/13 2nd
DGY 19/May/13 Lead
with Barbara & Lotti
Ian MK 07/May/13 Solo O/S
JimboWizbo 20/Apr/13 2nd O/S

One 4a move at the top

with Beth
Hidden 17/Feb/13 Lead O/S
papashango 13/Jan/13 Solo
with Stu
Hidden 13/Jan/13 Solo
Nick Sillem ??/2013 Solo O/S
AlanPedrick ??/2013 -
PLM ??/2013 -
jonnysims 27/Oct/12 Lead O/S
harold walmsley 04/Sep/12 Solo O/S
Paul Hy 28/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Andy S
andy.smythe 28/Aug/12 Lead
with Paul Hy
buxtoncoffeelover 20/Aug/12 Solo
Jayzen 12/Aug/12 Lead
with Joshu Hardy
deacondeacon 27/Jul/12 Solo O/S
woody8 05/Jul/12 Lead
Psych ?/Jul/12 Lead O/S
the power 27/Jun/12 2nd

brown star

with rob
dr_botnik 27/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Wee Davie 14/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Julie
taff raymond 04/Jun/12 Lead
Hidden 03/Jun/12 Lead
Hidden 03/Jun/12 2nd
Nigel Bond 21/May/12 Lead
with Anne Daykin, Bern Hardman
bwestwood 21/May/12 Solo
mountainpunk 28/Apr/12 Lead
with Tommy
tommylongfellow 28/Apr/12 2nd

Relied a little too heavily on the rope at the crux

Macleod 14/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Mehmet
hillm001 01/Apr/12 -
SteveM 31/Mar/12 Solo
Hidden 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Josh Dickerson 22/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Rob Martin
nogoodgrice 17/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Scott Dunkley
scott mayled ??/2012 Lead O/S

weak gear for the first 4-5m, relatively straight foreward after crack halfway up.

akhughes ??/2012 Solo O/S
Scott Dunkley ??/2012 -
with Scott A, lewist1993
andy.smythe ??/2012 -
steve-grigg 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S
al123 24/Aug/11 Solo
Hidden 17/Aug/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 05/Aug/11 Solo O/S
KatieG 23/Jul/11 2nd
with James Wyatt
jolyon.cohen 20/Jul/11 Lead

Scary! A long reach was helpful for the (?)crux move to avoid the nose.

with Charlotte Redit
Matt Groom 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S
tracyclimber 10/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Jun/11 Solo O/S
erica 05/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with John
John Brayshaw 05/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Erica
Hidden 21/May/11 Lead
simon1965 03/May/11 Solo
Sam..Oliver 28/Apr/11 TR
stpauliblade 28/Apr/11 TR
Hidden 25/Apr/11 Lead
gonzo_ls9 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with d
THardSevere 24/Apr/11 2nd O/S
uphillnow ??/2011 -
Davebryant ??/2011 Lead O/S
with Matt Hale, Fran Cavanagh
Hidden ?/Dec/10 -
Griff1990 06/Nov/10 2nd O/S
R_W_M 06/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with Matthew L
JamesBurton 06/Nov/10 Lead
with Adam
Double Knee Bar 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Tried the VS 4C direct. had a fit but got it in the end. May have been to far right though, went directly up the arete rather than to the left as the topo states.

Stepanek 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
oooeese 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with josh daymond
Hidden 02/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Adam_42 02/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Far from the most enjoyable climb ever. Found it to be mainly awkward and poorly protected at the start.

JamieSparkes 21/Sep/10 Solo O/S

didn't read description - finished left under overhangs

Daniel Heath 18/Sep/10 Lead rpt
Dan_Staff 18/Sep/10 Lead O/S
DaveLeonard 08/Sep/10 Lead O/S

First lead on Grit.

with PeteH
PeteH 08/Sep/10 2nd O/S
shkinitrep 01/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Aug/10 Solo O/S
al123 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S
James Oakes 11/Aug/10 Solo O/S
j.hubbard 08/Aug/10 2nd O/S
The Bad Cough 08/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S
jon22 08/Aug/10 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/10 Solo O/S
pboniface 24/Jun/10 2nd O/S
aldred 24/Jun/10 Lead O/S
nick ferro 20/Jun/10 -
Steve J P 16/Jun/10 Lead
with BW
Bernie Wylde 16/Jun/10 2nd
with sp
matt0759 15/Jun/10 Solo
Hidden 23/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/May/10 Lead O/S
brolte 15/May/10 2nd O/S
edd rab 14/May/10 Solo O/S
Daniel Heath 02/May/10 Solo O/S
Powder Puff Girl 09/Apr/10 2nd O/S
popebenedictus 09/Apr/10 Lead O/S
hilty 21/Mar/10 Lead O/S
rfdl100 21/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Simon Waters
jon clayton 11/Mar/10 Solo
Tom Redmond 05/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Rian Whitham
Hidden ??/2010 -
intotheoutside 19/Oct/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Oct/09 Lead
axeman 13/Sep/09 Solo O/S
with james
Nexonen 13/Sep/09 Lead
with Andy L
disturbed_one51 10/Sep/09 Solo
Bernie Wylde 16/Aug/09 2nd
Dave89 15/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Laura
Shad ?/Aug/09 Lead
raptorheli 15/Jul/09 Lead O/S
valentinesbabe 15/Jul/09 2nd O/S

Nice warmup

with Simon
sasasa 11/Jul/09 2nd dog
Hidden 10/Jul/09 Solo
mic_b 27/Jun/09 Solo O/S
jimorothy 26/Jun/09 Lead
with Scott Barnett
adam carless 09/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Apr/09 Solo O/S
FrJ 18/Apr/09 2nd dog

Off once. Really tricky getting out under overhang.

HansUDes 30/Mar/09 TR O/S

S, 4a, Route1, p264

Jon Dittman 29/Mar/09 2nd
charley 01/Mar/09 2nd O/S
with Marcus, Kev
Tithe Technique 01/Mar/09 TR
with Marcus, Charley
willoates ?/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 -
Camdenelectric ??/2009 Lead O/S
ekaterina sigida ??/2009 Lead
with Lewis Vaughan
Adam1973 16/Nov/08 2nd O/S
default_slipper 15/Nov/08 2nd
kitkat78 13/Oct/08 2nd O/S
with SteveM
SteveM 13/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Kat
gnc760 18/Sep/08 Solo rpt
paulstrutt01 13/Sep/08 2nd
with pete
thompson1000 10/Sep/08 2nd
craig d 30/Aug/08 Solo
petemeads 29/Aug/08 Solo
andyebbens 27/Aug/08 2nd
with Steve E
Sankey 27/Aug/08 Lead
with Andy E
Sankey 30/Jul/08 Solo
maybe_si 14/Jul/08 Solo O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/08 Solo
Hidden 09/Jun/08 Lead
stephenhart102 09/Jun/08 2nd
with Kate Wels
Chris Ellis 07/Jun/08 Lead
with Steve Wade
fizzy_elephant 02/Jun/08 Solo O/S
wingalina 14/May/08 2nd O/S
with Robert Turnbull
Hidden 01/May/08 Solo O/S
mikeyg 23/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Nick Fishbourne
Hidden 05/Apr/08 Lead
Hidden 05/Apr/08 2nd O/S
Lenny ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden 13/Oct/07 Lead O/S
AJ007 05/Oct/07 Solo
Hidden 22/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Aug/07 Lead rpt
Richard Hill 02/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Ian
Hidden 22/Jul/07 2nd
toasted 07/Jul/07 Lead
with Ian Atkins
davidgent ?/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Lydia
sce8 29/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Gemma Fisher And Dominic Sellers
fruitcake72 23/Jun/07 2nd
with mic_b
Blisco 10/Jun/07 2nd
with Keith Ridgeway
timreynolds 26/May/07 2nd O/S
mreynolds 26/May/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/May/07 2nd
RichardMc 05/May/07 Lead
with Mary Sealey
furry 28/Apr/07 Solo
BrianT 21/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Jasper Veale (age 11)
Jim Vach 12/Apr/07 Solo O/S
Hidden 12/Apr/07 Solo O/S
Graeme Hammond 11/Mar/07 Solo O/S
alexsharp 10/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Alex Davies
alexsharp 10/Mar/07 2nd O/S
with Alex Davies
Hidden 10/Mar/07 Lead
Hidden 10/Mar/07 Lead
Chris the Tall 03/Feb/07 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
JPGR 12/Nov/06 Lead
with Adam
Hidden 05/Nov/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Nov/06 Solo O/S
TGreen 14/Oct/06 2nd
Rosie Henstock 14/Oct/06 Lead O/S
Fat Tim ?/Oct/06 Lead O/S
SecretSquirrel 05/Sep/06 Solo
Hidden 04/Aug/06 2nd O/S
SGD 29/Jul/06 2nd

THe guide book topo tells you to step left the decription says step right? got confused so went fairly direct and it was bloody hard

with Adam Waller
David Robinson 16/Jul/06 Lead
Hidden 12/Jul/06 Solo rpt
victim of mathematics 08/Jul/06 Lead O/S
climbingrev 07/Jul/06 Lead O/S

Gear slow to start, but in abundance when it does! Good climb.

aztec_bums 28/Jun/06 Lead
with phillip jennings
Phil Jennings 28/Jun/06 2nd O/S
with Woodseats Venture Unit#
howlingbaboon 24/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Neil
viking 18/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with morgan
dannyboy83 ?/Jun/06 Solo O/S
Somerset swede basher 23/May/06 Solo O/S
LakesWinter 29/Apr/06 Lead
with Jon
Tom Last 22/Apr/06 Solo dnf

Didn't finish this as I was soloing and the top flake creaked rather badly when I loaded it! Escaped to the side just below the top.

roverhead 15/Apr/06 Lead
Nicos 04/Apr/06 Solo O/S
with solo
Tobias at Home ??/2006 -
Hidden 17/Nov/05 Lead O/S
loonyclimber ?/Oct/05 Lead O/S
Jeremy Wilton 25/Sep/05 2nd
with Mark Readman
krikoman 24/Sep/05 Lead O/S

Harder than expected, climbed as a "warm up" but ended being a bit of a struggle.

Rampikino 18/Sep/05 Lead
with Claire Rollason
Si dH 23/Jul/05 Solo O/S
Hopevalleypaul 21/Jun/05 2nd
with Mike C
Hidden ?/Apr/05 Lead
Hidden 13/Dec/04 2nd
Hidden 08/Sep/04 2nd
coffeepot 04/Sep/04 Lead dnf
with Nienke
coffeepot 04/Sep/04 2nd
Hidden 15/Aug/04 Lead rpt
Carl Smethurst 31/Jul/04 Solo
Zoomer 04/Jun/04 Lead
with Hiedi Sparks
Hidden 24/May/04 Solo O/S
Hidden 01/May/04 2nd O/S
LankyPaddy 01/May/04 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Apr/04 2nd rpt
Pelleas ?/Apr/04 Lead
Alaric 27/Mar/04 Lead O/S
with Jason Hogg, Adrian P, Neil
Hidden 25/Jan/04 Solo
jonnyboy ??/2004 Solo O/S
nienke ??/2004 Lead
with Fran Robertson, Nick Shuttleworth, Paul Mealor
simon kimber ?/Nov/03 Solo O/S
with Robin Wilmshurst-Smith
rob wmc 18/Oct/03 Lead O/S
with Pete
loose85 11/Sep/03 Lead O/S
Phil West 21/Jun/03 Solo O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/03 Lead rpt
Hidden 15/Mar/03 Solo O/S
SteveM 15/Mar/03 2nd
with Rosie, Tobs
SMc ?/Mar/03 Lead O/S
with Anne
Swirly 19/Oct/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Sep/02 Lead
DerwentDiluted 19/Apr/02 Solo
LakesWinter ?/Apr/02 2nd
with Quincey
John Kettle ??/2002 Lead
Ian Archer 12/Mar/01 2nd O/S
with Alister How
Hidden 13/Aug/00 Lead
tlr ??/2000 Solo
Hidden ??/2000 -
Rock Fairy ??/2000 Lead
Urgles ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 Solo O/S
Roget 25/Sep/99 Solo O/S
with jon
Hidden ?/May/99 Solo
John Eley ?/Jan/98 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Aug/96 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Apr/96 Solo O/S
andrewbooth1000 22/Jun/95 Lead
Hidden 13/May/94 Solo O/S
Scott McRae ?/Apr/92 2nd O/S

Friend of David Morris who climbed in plimsolls

steve prior ?/Jan/91 Lead
with Rob W
goi.ashmore 22/Jan/89 Solo O/S
Iain Thow 13/Jun/87 Solo
steve taylor ??/1987 -
Tom V 20/Sep/86 Solo
Dave Musgrove 02/Apr/86 -
Hidden 15/Mar/81 Solo
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1981 Solo
Rob Davies 05/Aug/80 Solo
Adderbury Climber 12/Aug/79 2nd O/S
with Smudge Smith
Andy Say 06/Aug/79 Solo
Chris Terrey ??/1979 Solo
MikeDowsett ??/1978 Lead
Chris Ellis 15/Apr/77 2nd
with Martin Veale
Canyak ??/1973 -
mikej 22/Oct/67 Lead
with Alan Couper
mikej 18/May/67 Solo
with Chris Bridge
Hidden 03/Jul/65 Solo
Hidden 19/Jun/65 Solo
Hidden 29/May/65 Solo
Hidden 20/May/65 Solo
Hidden 02/May/65 Solo
Hidden 01/May/65 Solo
Hidden 28/Apr/65 Solo
Hidden 25/Apr/65 Solo
Hidden 24/Apr/65 Solo
Hidden 11/Apr/65 Solo
Hidden 04/Apr/65 Solo
Hidden 28/Mar/65 Solo
Hidden 20/Mar/65 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, davidanthony, toogreytogrind, Hidden, Hidden, GrahamHP, johnnorley, Hidden, markblair
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Votes cast 38
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 38
Votes cast 33
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set