The Arch Deacon*** HVS 5a
[The big traverse on Arch Deacon, 3 kb]120m, 3 pitches. No description has been contributed for this climb.
M Tighe, S McNeil, J McCall Apr/1997

Ticklists: Ultimate Scottish Rock, HVS Adventures, Ultimate HVS ticklist, UK Lonely Leads.

Photo: The big traverse on Arch Deacon © Lawrie Brand
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 50 logbooks, and on 13 wishlists.

agree that this makes dream of white horses seem slightly tame....! awesome cliff.
tomdude - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/14 with dan moore

Hidden - Jun/14

gjd - AltLd O/S - 29/May/14 with Sam Burns

Abi Chard - AltLd O/S - 28/May/14 with Ian

James Thacker - 2014

magical 2nd pitch.. one of the best routes i've ever done. despite getting vommed on by a fulmar on p3. also accidentally went direct through wee roof above ledge on p1 at about e1..
JonmapDL - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/13 with Jamie Sparkes

Best HVS I have ever done. Makes Dream look ordinary.
Liam Ingram - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/13 with Anne Peale

annep11 - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/13 with Liam Ingram

Took a while to figure out the starting point - for future ascents: the starting ledge is way above the high tide line and the pegmatite recess is invisible until you're basically in it - just head up and right above the overlaps at any point from the descent line. the middle pitch is fantastic, if a little unclear where to finish up. I took a hanging stance in the first of several Right facing corners but it appeared possible to continue traversing for at least another long pitch if the mood took you. :)
JamieSparkes - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/13 with Jon dL

Hidden - AltLd - May/13

Ben Wolstenholme - AltLd - 16/Aug/12 with John Mason

Rob84 - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/12 with Chris James

2nd pitch, probably a bit lost, good route anyway!
chrism225 - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/12 with jem, Caroline

didnt think it was worth the hype in the guidebook
pete1993 - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/12 with Jake Young

pmurdy - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/12 with Nick P

Jake Young - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/12 with Pete Briggs

possibly went the wrong way, but great route anyway!
CRiddiford - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/12 with Jem, Chris

Think we took the wrong line on the traverse
Nick1812P - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/12 with Paul

Brilliant line winding its way through the roofs with lots of air under your feet. Worth 5 stars just for the traverse pitch. Take loads of cams with you as we didn't have enough.
Skinny Kin - AltLd O/S - 06/Jun/12 with Neil Morbey

P2. A cool route, though ruined for me when I dropped my big blue camalot into the sea! Watch out for the hidden fulmars too!
Duncan Campbell - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/12 with Fingers

Hidden - Jun/12

Middle pitch very cool.
whistler - AltLd O/S - 27/May/12 with Mark Littlewood

adie84 - 2012

s.c.white - 2012

Andy Moles - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/10 with Ferdia

1st and a bit of a second, becky had too much rope drag. People could avoid it if belaying on the line of the traverse.
Ewan Russell - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/10 with Becky EUMC

Phil Jennings - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/10 with Andy Latham

AndyL - AltLd - 20/Jun/10 with Phil Jennings

ferdia - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/10 with Andy

sgl - AltLd - 19/Jun/10 with Clare

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/10

Trevera - AltLd O/S - Jun/10 with Eva

led p2, crux traverse. Most sensational below ever at the end of this pitch!!
Pete Nugent - AltLd O/S - 31/May/10 with Richard Toon

dmoir - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/09 with John Tanner

feilx - AltLd rpt - 03/Sep/09 with Heather

Lauren Davies - AltLd O/S - 02/Sep/09 with Crazy Tom

Sophie Nunn - AltLd - 30/Aug/09

I led pitches 1&3 Dave led pitch 2
John Tanner - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/09 with Dave Moir

A bit damp - best to do it in the afternoon. Intense position above the cave!
Fultonius - AltLd O/S - 20/May/09 with Ross Barnes

alreet if ye have big baws!! quite exciting none the less
dave o - AltLd O/S - 20/May/09 with Andy Inglis

Fantastic positions!
andyinglis - AltLd O/S - 20/May/09 with Dave Ogden

Excellent route!
Neil Adams - AltLd O/S - 19/May/09 with Malcolm

sphincter training
Lawrie Brand - 2nd O/S - 18/May/09 with Dougie Harvey

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/May/09

Dougie Harvey - Lead O/S - 18/May/09 with Lawrie Brand

Ross Barnes - AltLd - May/09 with Ally

mshorter - AltLd O/S - Jul/08 with irish andy

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/07

Stone Muppet - 2007

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Jun/02

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
DanChad, kp64zl, sea_lene, hutchay, druss, JonmapDL, Alex the Alex, The Ivanator, Ropeboy, James B

Total votes cast 62
hard E10 of 21
E10 of 21
easy E14 of 21
hard HVS2 of 21
HVS12 of 21
easy HVS3 of 21
hard VS0 of 21
VS0 of 21
easy VS0 of 21
hard 5b0 of 20
5b0 of 20
easy 5b0 of 20
hard 5a1 of 20
5a9 of 20
easy 5a10 of 20
hard 4c0 of 20
4c0 of 20
easy 4c0 of 20
3 Stars20 of 21
2 Stars1 of 21
1 Star0 of 21
0 Stars0 of 21
Bag of .....0 of 21
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean repeat