The Unprintable** E1 5b
[The swearing is almost over..., 3 kb]14m.

Rockfax Description
Chubbin' desperate! The left-hand crack leads to a cramped recess. The exit is difficult - swing into a layback on jams (knees!) before sprinting to safety. Only HVS for grit gurus. © ROCKFAX

FA. Don Whillans 1952

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Gritstone's finest gruesome and damaging struggles, Hard Grit history, Stanage E1 Challenge (1989 Guide), Peak Rock/6/ The Emergence of Joe Brown and Don Whillans, Pete's 150 Peak Extremes, Stanage for Crack Apprentices.

Photo: The swearing is almost over... © Steph
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This climb is in 169 logbooks, and on 27 wishlists.

Second go- after putting jammies on!
soph - Lead - 27/Sep/15 with Tony Stone

Hidden - Lead dog - 13/Sep/15

Not good at the end of a roof climbing session. Fell couple of times and given up when I fell head first onto the arete.
FlavioL1989 - Lead dnf - 16/Aug/15 with Raj Bisht

Hidden - Lead dnf - 15/Aug/15

Hidden - Lead dnf - 25/Jun/15

Getting into the layback coming out of the niche proved to be a bit too much. Hard but great fun and one to come back for.
phildawson - Lead dnf - 15/May/15 with Sam Howell

Brannock - 2nd - 23/Apr/15

love how fisical this is no half measures
Andy Peak 1 - Lead rpt - 17/Apr/15 with Andrew Deckon

cold, cold and more cold led to horrendous hot aches then climbed from the ground without pulling the ropes.
Nick1812P - Lead G/U - 26/Mar/15 with speedy

You really need to put some effort in on this one, at least it's only a couple of hard pulls! surprised again at how hard the bottom crack was though!
JamieSparkes - Lead β - 04/Nov/14 with Claire Holland

Sam Simpson - Lead dog - 03/Nov/14 with Ally Hurst

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 03/Nov/14

markalmack - Lead O/S - 01/Nov/14 with little tom

Albachoss - Lead dnf - 01/Nov/14 with The Reach

Really good route, happy to have managed it now after dogging it a while ago. The crack was very wet and slimy but managed to power through it. So good!
Teappleby - Lead - 17/Oct/14 with Rory Wadsworth, Ben Kelsey

Hidden - Lead dog - 22/Sep/14

Hidden - Lead dog - 14/Sep/14

WillDoyle - Lead - 07/Sep/14

Totally flummoxed by the moves coming out of the niche though I may have taken up holds with gear. Tempted to go for round two next time!
kyaizawa - Lead dnf - 01/Sep/14 with Emma Reynolds

Hidden - 2nd dog - 30/Jul/14

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/14

Although I made a lot of noise, didn't actually find this too bad. Probably not a grit guru so still E1... Ben and James gave it a good go.
Alex Hallam - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/14 with James Mitchell, Ben Freeman

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 09/Jul/14

Hidden - Lead - 06/Jul/14

Stuart had first go great face jam. I had brief go didn't get close, brutal.
freemanTom - Lead dnf - 21/Jun/14 with Stuart gmc

WOW. Biggest flounder ever. I will come back one day and do this.
Rachel Slater - Lead dog - 14/Jun/14 with James Oswald

That went fairly badly.
benkelsey - Lead dnf - 06/Jun/14 with Shaun Humphreys

Fantastic, desperate and graunchy climbing. I spent a long time hanging from two hand jams with an entire leg in the crack. Very hard
James Oswald - 2nd O/S - Jun/14 with Rachel Slater

Hidden - Lead dnf - 09/May/14

think I got it wrong, couldn't do it or see any way to do it!
ashtond6 - Lead dnf - 09/May/14

Ohh the shame, utter failure, couldn't even see what to do.
Brannock - Lead dnf - 03/May/14

Glorious! Love a good battle. Even better I love hearing Conor gurning his way up
tprebs - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/14 with Conor Cadden

cjcuni - 2nd dog - Apr/14 with Thomas Prebble

oooooooooooooooohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh yes.
funsized - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/14 with Tom Green

Oh the horror. Total shutdown!
LJC - Lead dnf - 10/Mar/14 with George

pete1993 - 2nd - 07/Mar/14 with Tom

Found the moves hardish but ok, got myself in a bit of a pickle though when I placed a cam above my head. . .in the next jam.
Teappleby - Lead dog - 07/Mar/14 with Pete Briggs, Matt Ferrier

Dan Arkle - 2014

Hidden - Lead dog - 10/Nov/13

Dan attempted lead; lowered off. I attempted on lead. Dan led smoothly on second attempt. A real tussle even on second; off balance and hanging horizontally off hand jams. Awkward. Total sandbag E1.
gavinpeach - 2nd dog - 28/Sep/13 with Dan

Stanners - Lead dnf - 11/Aug/13 with James Rich, Jack Bradbrook

not even close
JamesRich - Lead dnf - 11/Aug/13 with Rob stanfield, Jack Bradbrook

Didn't have jamming skills or the pain threshold to pull off the crux, one to comeback for in the distant future after climbing on grit for a considerable amount of time.
Quarryboy - Lead dnf - 11/Aug/13 with James Rich, Rob Stanfield

Simon Davis - 2nd - Aug/13 with Tim P

Michael Allday - Lead - 13/Jul/13

(Retro-)Flashed in my fist try to my surprise and pleasure! I failed to even top out last year, but remembered the tips and they were very useful (in that sense, it wasn't "retro"-flash). But this was a proper ground-up ascent! (Mitch cleaned the route for me last year after my failure.) Rob thought, after seconding with a great struggle, it was "the hardest E1 I have ever done, BY FAR" and harder than Tippler Direct E3.
masa-alpin - Lead RP - 01/Jun/13 with Tom B newbie, Rob G

got totally sand bagged on this route. couldnt get round the bulge. hard but very safe e1.
henry peter jenkins - Lead dnf - 23/Apr/13 with dale clover

Just like reselling a bear:-)
Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 03/Mar/13 with Cliff

andi turner - 2013

Up to crux using Gaz's gear, then surprised myself by finishing the route. It felt pretty tough on wet, slimy and insecure jams. Lots of effort needed.
madasten - Lead β - 20/Oct/12 with Miquel, Gaz

Failed on the crux move after hanging about for to long. Lowered off and billy led it and topped out in good style. Hard crux on slippery, awkward jamms! Good fun though.. I'll be back !!!! Again ..
gazfellows - Lead - 20/Oct/12 with Miquel, Anna, Steff, Billy

Gave up after many falls at the crux. Mitch took over and cruised it.
masa-alpin - Lead dnf - 07/Oct/12 with Mitch, Tim S

A good solid HVS!
Mr Wild - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/12

soph - 2nd - 15/Sep/12 with Lindy Smith

MikeLeeds - Lead dnf - 07/Sep/12 with John McMahon

Let's just say you can see how it got it's name. Solid jams though (crack was moist too) so it wasn't too bad. Good to see Will sit on the rope seconding this one... and give it the grade E1 8b.
Twisty - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/12 with Will Smith

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 07/Aug/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/12

Good fun!
dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/12 with Nathan

Hannes B - Lead dog - 10/Jul/12 with Aidan

manwithacam - Lead dnf - 04/Jun/12

Hidden - Lead dnf - 12/May/12

Stern lead by Will. Took a fall and then had to swing on the rope to get my foot in a position to get the layback going. No way I was getting there on jams.
treg - 2nd dog - 08/May/12 with Will

Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 06/May/12 with random

Couldn't get my knee up
Cake - Lead dnf - 06/May/12 with Jon, Matt

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/12

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 15/Apr/12

Bruce Houston - Lead - Mar/12

crappy jams coming out of the niche with green and damp crack above gave me enough excuses tae bail oot..
fatbuoybazza - Lead dnf - 14/Jan/12 with DaveP

Hidden - Lead dog - 2012

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

hmmm, hard and wet
JamieSparkes - Lead dnf - 15/Oct/11 with Liam Ingram

Hidden - Lead dog - 02/Oct/11

nige - Lead - 03/Sep/11 with colin struthers, mark hounslea

akhughes - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead - 24/Jul/11

belay bunny turned bad - 2nd - 24/Jul/11 with loundsy

steve_yo - Lead - 09/Jul/11 with jojo

Easier if you swear.
JRae - Lead - 29/Jun/11 with M Rankie

2nd go. Should have onsighted. Hard but not nails
mark20 - Lead RP - 29/Jun/11

And I thought I was good at jamming! Wow this really put me in my place. Nails
Daniel Heath - Lead dog - 28/Jun/11

Very tricky to work out the feet, felt suprisingly easy when I got it. Well chuffed to get it, seem to have learned to jam!
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/11 with Johnny

JRae - Lead dnf - 05/Jun/11 with Tom Dixon

Hidden - Lead - 02/Jun/11

Finally bagged this sucker, never again!
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Lead RP - 02/Jun/11 with Ben Burns

Nicola - 2nd dog - 09/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead rpt - 06/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead rpt - 23/Mar/11

alex_arthur - 2nd dog - 19/Mar/11 with David Brigham

Nails. Humbling!
dj_brigham05 - Lead dog - 19/Mar/11 with Alex Arthur

walts4 - 2011

Hidden - Dec/10

Finally worked out the sequence (I think...) but bloody nails. I'd like to meet the person who thinks this is HVS! Harder than most E2s I've done...
PeteH - 2nd dog - 22/Sep/10 with Alex

Sooo hard, dogged this one to the max.
Jonathan Hall - Lead - 04/Sep/10 with Max Richardson

Nick1812P - Lead dnf - 29/Jul/10 with Jamie

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Lead dnf - 27/Jul/10 with Liam O'Loughlin

timharrison - Lead dnf - 21/Jul/10 with Jo Chia

good honest hard work. found a massive undercut I don't remember using on a failed attempt some time last summer??
Graeme Hammond - Lead rpt - 11/Jun/10 with Richard Williams

Hidden - 2nd dog - 31/May/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2010

this is hard and did not go well. Remember it suddenly went when using other hand first but can't remember which. I doubt I'll try this again. It really does make you swear
wahniel - Lead dog - 22/Sep/09 with Stewart McConnell

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead - 16/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead dog - 24/May/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/May/09

Slumped briefly on rope immediately after getting knees up on the side wall - could feel the skin coming off my right hand and decided it wasnt worth it on a top rope. Should have taken the tie me to find a better jam before pulling my knees up - but its bloody strenuous!
Si dH - 2nd dog - 10/May/09 with Neil Furniss

simonp - Lead O/S - Apr/09 with Shauna

The hardest technical bit is getting to the niche, getting out is more about pain resistance!
Bob - 2nd O/S - 29/Mar/09 with M. Bullough & S. Brock


irish paul - 14/Oct/08 with Dave Roberts

got to the recess fine and then couldn't get out, i blame irish
Flash29 - Lead dnf - 14/Oct/08 with Irish

after failing on lead had to aid my way out of the recess, fun fun fun
Flash29 - 2nd - 14/Oct/08 with Irish

Pete Graham - Lead - 25/Sep/08 with Luke Porter

Brown - 2nd O/S - 11/Sep/08 with Henry

Hidden - Lead dog - Aug/08

Horrific. And wet.
Shauna - 2nd dog - 23/Jul/08 with Steve

Hidden - 2008

Andrew Sloan - Lead dnf - 04/Nov/07

Billg - Lead O/S - Aug/07 with Dave Gregory

Carly - Lead dog - 08/Jul/07 with seb

Hidden - 10/Jun/07

Nicos - Lead O/S - 10/Feb/07 with rich howels

jamesturnbull - 2007

tumbling wizard - Lead dnf - 09/Nov/06

Really hard thrutch moves, just managed a high foot up the inside of the crack to keep me on for the jams higher up, then feet on side wall
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - 29/Oct/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Oct/06

clive-greenwood - 2nd - Oct/06 with Crag Rat Rich

Hidden - Lead - 29/Jan/06

Boy - 2006

dan gibson - 2006

Hidden - Lead RP - Aug/04

Rik Dawes - Lead O/S - 2004

Paz - Lead dog - Apr/03 with MH

Hidden - Lead dog - 29/Mar/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Mar/03

Hidden - Lead RP - Jun/02

DubyaJamesDubya - Feb/02

NeilGriffiths - 22/Jul/01 with Simon Frost

Hidden - Lead - 09/May/01

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/00

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/00 with Myles Jordan

Hidden - 2000

tuftynick - Lead - 2000

Roget - Lead rpt - 25/Sep/99

Simon Pearce - 1999

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Aug/98

CrashMat Rob - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/98 with Nicky

ChrisJD - Lead - 26/Jun/98 with AlB

CrashMat Rob - Lead dog - 16/May/98 with Martin Smith, Nicky

Hidden - Lead - May/98

sadams - 2nd - 01/Nov/97 with Team Midlands

leathers - 1995

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Sep/92

K1 - Jul/92

WB - Lead O/S - 1992

On a days soloing, nicely warmed up. Spur of moment decision but went well - found it harder on the lead before and since.
uphillnow - Solo rpt - 1991

Marti999 - Lead - 1990

sadams - Lead dnf - Sep/87 with Mark Bonham

Ken Taylor - Lead - 15/Jun/82 with Andy Bond

A struggle. One of the few HVS's here I've avoided soloing.
stp - 2nd - 12/Jun/82

charlesmfrench - 2nd - 15/May/82 with Alan Bennett

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Sep/81

KRB - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/80 with Mike Bridges

mike bridges - 2nd O/S - 17/Aug/80 with Kevin Bridges

Mark Kemball - Lead - 23/Sep/79

Canyak - 1973

rogerskews - 1972 with Dane Atkins

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Total votes cast 143
hard E21 of 53
E22 of 53
easy E217 of 53
hard E114 of 53
E113 of 53
easy E13 of 53
hard HVS1 of 53
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easy HVS0 of 53
hard 5c3 of 49
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easy 5c20 of 49
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easy 5b0 of 49
hard 5a0 of 49
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Style of ascent
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean G/U
Clean RP