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The Unprintable** E1 5b

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[The swearing is almost over..., 3 kb]14m. Follow the deceptively awkward left-hand crack into a cramped recess. The exit from here is difficult and swearing can help. Swing into a right-facing layback (knees useful) on jams before sprinting to safety. Only HVS for grit gurus. © ROCKFAX
FA. Don Whillans 1952

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 500, Stanage Routes Graded List, Gritstone's finest gruesome and damaging struggles, Hard Grit history, Stanage E1 Challenge (1989 Guide).

Photo: The swearing is almost over... © Steph
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 120 logbooks, and on 17 wishlists.

got totally sand bagged on this route. couldnt get round the bulge. hard but very safe e1.
henry peter jenkins - Lead dnf - 23/Apr/13 with dale clover

Just like reselling a bear:-)
Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 03/Mar/13 with Cliff

Up to crux using Gaz's gear, then surprised myself by finishing the route. It felt pretty tough on wet, slimy and insecure jams. Lots of effort needed.
madasten - Lead β - 20/Oct/12 with Miquel, Gaz

Failed on the crux move after hanging about for to long. Lowered off and billy led it and topped out in good style. Hard crux on slippery, awkward jamms! Good fun though.. I'll be back !!!! Again ..
gazfellows - Lead - 20/Oct/12 with Miquel, Anna, Steff, Billy

Gave up after many falls at the crux. Mitch took over and cruised it.
masa-alpin - Lead dnf - 07/Oct/12 with Mitch, Tim S

A good solid HVS!
Mr Wild - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/12 with Adam Moroz

soph - 2nd - 15/Sep/12 with Lindy Smith

!!!
MikeLeeds - Lead dnf - 07/Sep/12 with John McMahon

desperate if you cant jam!
willsm11 - 2nd dog - 02/Sep/12

Let's just say you can see how it got it's name. Solid jams though (crack was moist too) so it wasn't too bad. Good to see Will sit on the rope seconding this one... and give it the grade E1 8b.
Twisty - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/12 with Will Smith

$%*&#/!
iceaxejuggler - 2nd dnf - 07/Aug/12 with Sean K

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/12

Good fun!
dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/12 with Nathan

1F
Hannes B - Lead dog - 10/Jul/12 with Aidan

Oh.My.God.
middlemarker - Lead dnf - 04/Jun/12

Hidden - Lead dnf - 12/May/12

Stern lead by Will. Took a fall and then had to swing on the rope to get my foot in a position to get the layback going. No way I was getting there on jams.
treg - 2nd dog - 08/May/12 with Will

Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 06/May/12 with random

Couldn't get my knee up
Cake - Lead dnf - 06/May/12 with Jon, Matt

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 15/Apr/12

Bruce Houston - Lead - Mar/12

crappy jams coming out of the niche with green and damp crack above gave me enough excuses tae bail oot..
fatbuoybazza - Lead dnf - 14/Jan/12 with DaveP

Hidden - Lead dog - 2012

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

hmmm, hard and wet
JamieSparkes - Lead dnf - 15/Oct/11 with Liam

Hidden - Lead dog - 02/Oct/11

nige - Lead - 03/Sep/11 with colin struthers, mark hounslea

akhughes - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/11

loundsy - Lead - 24/Jul/11

belay bunny turned bad - 2nd - 24/Jul/11 with loundsy

steve_yo - Lead - 09/Jul/11 with jojo

Easier if you swear.
JRae - Lead - 29/Jun/11 with M Rankie

2nd go. Should have onsighted. Hard but not nails
mark20 - Lead RP - 29/Jun/11

And I thought I was good at jamming! Wow this really put me in my place. Nails
Daniel Heath - Lead dog - 28/Jun/11

Very tricky to work out the feet, felt suprisingly easy when I got it. Well chuffed to get it, seem to have learned to jam!
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/11 with Johnny

JRae - Lead dnf - 05/Jun/11 with Tom Dixon

pretty hard crux. I did Tom Thub the day before and found that, at e2, alot easier...
wolverine - Lead - 02/Jun/11 with Paul P

Finally bagged this sucker, never again!
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Lead RP - 02/Jun/11 with Ben Burns

Nicola - 2nd dog - 09/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead rpt - 06/Apr/11

Nails!
liam - Lead rpt - 23/Mar/11 with James Monypenny

alex_arthur - 2nd dog - 19/Mar/11 with David Brigham

Nails. Humbling!
dj_brigham05 - Lead dog - 19/Mar/11 with Alex Arthur

walts4 - 2011

Hidden - Dec/10

Finally worked out the sequence (I think...) but bloody nails. I'd like to meet the person who thinks this is HVS! Harder than most E2s I've done...
PeteH - 2nd dog - 22/Sep/10 with Alex

Sooo hard, dogged this one to the max.
Jonathan Hall - Lead - 04/Sep/10 with Max Richardson

Nick1812P - Lead dnf - 29/Jul/10 with Jamie

Ooooow!!
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Lead dnf - 27/Jul/10 with Liam O'Loughlin

timharrison - Lead dnf - 21/Jul/10 with Jo Chia

good honest hard work. found a massive undercut I don't remember using on a failed attempt some time last summer??
Graeme Hammond - Lead rpt - 11/Jun/10 with Richard

Hidden - 2nd dog - 31/May/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2010

this is hard and did not go well. Remember it suddenly went when using other hand first but can't remember which. I doubt I'll try this again. It really does make you swear
wahniel - Lead dog - 22/Sep/09 with Stewart McConnell

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead - 16/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead dog - 24/May/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/May/09

Slumped briefly on rope immediately after getting knees up on the side wall - could feel the skin coming off my right hand and decided it wasnt worth it on a top rope. Should have taken the tie me to find a better jam before pulling my knees up - but its bloody strenuous!
Si dH - 2nd dog - 10/May/09 with Neil Furniss

simonp - Lead O/S - Apr/09 with Shauna

The hardest technical bit is getting to the niche, getting out is more about pain resistance!
Bob - 2nd O/S - 29/Mar/09 with M. Bullough & S. Brock

BRUCESTRAC - 2009

irish paul - 14/Oct/08 with Dave Roberts

got to the recess fine and then couldn't get out, i blame irish
Flash29 - Lead dnf - 14/Oct/08 with Irish

after failing on lead had to aid my way out of the recess, fun fun fun
Flash29 - 2nd - 14/Oct/08 with Irish

Pete Graham - Lead - 25/Sep/08 with Luke Porter

Brown - 2nd O/S - 11/Sep/08 with Henry

Hidden - Lead dog - Aug/08

Horrific. And wet.
Shauna - 2nd dog - 23/Jul/08 with Steve

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Apr/08

Andrew Sloan - Lead dnf - 04/Nov/07

Billg - Lead O/S - Aug/07 with Dave Gregory

Carly - Lead dog - 08/Jul/07 with seb

John Roberts (JR) - 10/Jun/07 with Simon Hudson

Nicos - Lead O/S - 10/Feb/07 with rich howels

jamesturnbull - 2007

tumbling wizard - Lead dnf - 09/Nov/06

Really hard thrutch moves, just managed a high foot up the inside of the crack to keep me on for the jams higher up, then feet on side wall
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - 29/Oct/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Oct/06

clive-greenwood - 2nd - Oct/06 with Crag Rat Rich

Hidden - Lead - 29/Jan/06

Boy - 2006

dan gibson - 2006

Hidden - Lead RP - Aug/04

Rik Dawes - Lead O/S - 2004

Paz - Lead dog - Apr/03 with MH

Hidden - Lead dog - 29/Mar/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Mar/03

Think I got this clean on my 2nd attempt - the jams were so painful that I had to come down and tape up the backs of my hands!
Nick Smith - UKC - Lead RP - Jun/02

NeilGriffiths - 22/Jul/01 with Simon Frost

Hidden - Lead - 09/May/01

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/00

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/00 with Myles Jordan

Hidden - 2000

tuftynick - Lead - 2000

Roget - Lead rpt - 25/Sep/99

Simon Pearce - 1999

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Aug/98

CrashMat Rob - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/98 with Nicky

ChrisJD - Lead - 26/Jun/98 with AlB

CrashMat Rob - Lead dog - 16/May/98 with Martin Smith, Nicky

Hidden - Lead - May/98

sadams - 2nd - 01/Nov/97 with Team Midlands

leathers - 1995

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Sep/92

K1 - Jul/92

WB - Lead O/S - 1992

On a days soloing, nicely warmed up. Spur of moment decision but went well - found it harder on the lead before and since.
David Smith - Solo rpt - 1991

Marti999 - Lead - 1990

sadams - Lead dnf - Sep/87 with Mark Bonham

Ken Taylor - Lead - 15/Jun/82 with Andy Bond

A struggle. One of the few HVS's here I've avoided soloing.
stp - 2nd - 12/Jun/82

charlesmfrench - 2nd - 15/May/82 with Alan Bennett

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Sep/81

KRB - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/80 with Mike Bridges

mike bridges - 2nd O/S - 17/Aug/80 with Kevin Bridges

Mark Kemball - Lead - 23/Sep/79

rogerskews - 1972 with Dane Atkins

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Paul Tanner, Siderunner, Ciderslider, Hidden, Dan Geh, mmmhumous, JamieSparkes, jeffsheard, ben_250, Hidden, IanMulvany, pauldr, Hidden, Ketu, Chalky Cat, Hidden, Pythonist

Voting
Total votes cast 109
hard E20 of 41
E20 of 41
easy E214 of 41
hard E113 of 41
E111 of 41
easy E12 of 41
hard HVS1 of 41
HVS0 of 41
easy HVS0 of 41
hard 5c0 of 38
5c0 of 38
easy 5c20 of 38
hard 5b7 of 38
5b11 of 38
easy 5b0 of 38
hard 5a0 of 38
5a0 of 38
easy 5a0 of 38
3 Stars2 of 30
2 Stars27 of 30
1 Star1 of 30
0 Stars0 of 30
Bag of .....0 of 30
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 120 (0.8%)
Lead79 of 120 (65.8%)
Followed23 of 120 (19.2%)
Alt Leads1 of 120 (0.8%)
Unknown16 of 120 (13.3%)

'Climbed'46 of 120 (38.3%)
clean O/S26 of 120 (21.7%)
clean β1 of 120 (0.8%)
clean rpt5 of 120 (4.2%)
clean RP4 of 120 (3.3%)
dogged20 of 120 (16.7%)
dnf18 of 120 (15.0%)