130m, 5 pitches. A fine outing, particularly when a big sea is running. This route traverses the cliff from left to right (looking in) at half-height to break through the capping roof on the right-hand side. Start by scrambling down the ridge at the very tip of Guarsay Mor to ledges about 25m above the sea.

1) 4c, 20m. Move down over ledges to the arête. Swing round on good holds and make a short hand traverse to take belay in a small niche.

2) 5a, 25m. Continue traversing at the same level until an awkward move leads across to a ledge. Climb up and right to the next ledge and belay.

3) 5a, 25m. Move up right and follow the hand traverse line right in a fine position to a stance in a square recess.

4) 4b, 50m. Take a rising traverse line right through some pink quartz/feldspar to a ledge under the left hand side of the big overhang. Traverse easily rightwards to a stance in the far right-hand corner.

5) 5b, 10m. Fierce jamming rightwards under the roof leads all too quickly to the top.

FA. D.Ferguson, A.Ekins 09/Jun/2000.

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