Tippler Direct*** E3 6a
[A long reach on Tippler Direct, 2 kb]16m.

Rockfax Description
A fine piece of roof climbing. Head through the stacked roof to a good hold where a massive lock-off or a short leap is needed to reach the break under the roof. The crux of The Tippler remains. © ROCKFAX

FA. Jim Reading 1976

Ticklists: Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Hardish grit routes that have good gear but aren't staminafests, Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day.

Photo: A long reach on Tippler Direct © ColinD
View all 7 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 211 logbooks, and on 60 wishlists.

jamesturnbull - Lead - 20/May/15 with bart shaw

Hidden - 2nd dog - 20/May/15

wi11 - Lead dnf - 20/May/15 with Brian

Rickrick - 2nd dog - 01/May/15

Louishmouis - Lead O/S - Apr/15 with Felix

james had a few tries before me so the cams up to the point where it is reversible were placed. im too lazy to ab down to take them out only to put them back n to then reverse back to the floor to rest.
grp - Lead β - 22/Mar/15

James S - 2nd - 22/Mar/15 with geoff

Oddjob - 2nd dog - 10/Oct/14 with Tom

M_Robinson - Lead dnf - 05/Oct/14 with Phil Skurok

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Oct/14

Flashed the crux of the direct but too pumped for the tippler crux.
RFWilkie - Lead dog - 27/Sep/14

Awesome route!! Took two falls before I got it done.
dom94 - Lead G/U - 25/Sep/14 with Matt Groom

Hidden - Lead - 14/Sep/14

Ground up 3rd go. Crux not easy!
quiffhanger - Lead RP - 30/Aug/14 with Matt

Fell off this years ago
mark20 - Lead β - 20/Aug/14

Hidden - 2nd dog - 30/Jul/14

robgixer - 2nd dog - 05/Jul/14

JayAyBee - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/14

Tried 3 times, 3 nice falls. The second reach is sooooo far!
Rachel Slater - Lead dnf - 14/Jun/14 with James Oswald

Some okay attempts in bad conditions. On my 3rd & fourth attempt I couldn't quite reach the final break. Literally a cm away with no more reach left. Brilliant, one to do with a heavy belayer though.
James Oswald - Lead dnf - Jun/14 with Rachel Slater

Stig - Lead dnf - 11/Apr/14 with Mischa and Coel

Second Go.
James Oakes - Lead RP - 19/Mar/14 with Chi Cheng, Tim Newton, Peter Bugryniec

After James, lead on his gear and with beta. Still happy with the flash
tim newton - Lead β - 19/Mar/14 with james oakes

pie_eater_pete - Lead - 05/Mar/14 with bwestwood

mike mo - 2nd - 2014

Dan Arkle - 2014

Couple falls on crux, Sound gear and obvious moves. Tippler crux harder to read...
jakenichol - Lead - 01/Dec/13 with Kayleigh Tremaine

Up to put gear in, came down for a rest then blasted through it pretty quick. Felt good. Just made the reach! :)
Si dH - Lead O/S - 16/Nov/13 with Andy

on jonny's gear up to the crux
Nick1812P - Lead β - 07/Nov/13

Dan Bates - 27/Sep/13

Cant do it, i have fallen of this route more than any other
Andy Peak 1 - Lead dnf - 25/Sep/13 with Eszter

really glad how easy this felt, was fully expecting to faff on this but just pulled on, put the gear in and did it with no fuss, happy with myself :P
Haydn Jones - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/13 with marc duhig

marcduhig - 2nd O/S - 08/Sep/13 with Haydn

will be back for this one
stuart34 - Lead dnf - 21/Aug/13 with Chris James

Michael Allday - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/13

Hidden - Lead RP - 05/Jun/13

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 01/Jun/13

Pumpy and brilliant
john lynch - Lead O/S - 22/May/13 with pete, ed luke

First of the grade, took a while to commit to the crux move because i took such a huge rack i couldn't just lock it off, started to rain half way up.
BillyRidal - Lead RP - May/13

fell off after faffing with poor and pointless runners mid crux. idiot. fine second go, though still helluva move
w.pettet-smith - Lead - 01/Mar/13 with dan

Mark Warnett - Lead G/U - 2013

great roof section on bomber gear :) hard pull through mind which took some practice!
David Clover - Lead dog - 15/Oct/12

Dave Turnbull, BMC - Lead rpt - 06/Oct/12 with Greg Cunningham

Hidden - Lead β - 06/Oct/12

Should have onsighted, didn't see hold on 1st go.
lanky and weak - Lead RP - Oct/12 with Kirsty Atkinson, Ryan Conroy, Conor Cussell

This is nails! I'm 5'9 so the 'long reach' or 'big lock off' is an all out dyno for me. When I eventually committed to it I only caught the hold on the tips of three fingers, and then the crux of The Tippler is still pretty hard. All adds up to be a pretty tough E3.
Joughton - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/12

soph - Lead - 15/Sep/12 with Lindy Smith

Martin Davies - Lead dnf - 14/Sep/12

1st go today after taking my first fall on it 2 years ago.
willsm11 - Lead RP - 02/Sep/12 with Twisty

The Tippler crux always gets me after that darn lock off! Wasn't too bad this time though!
Twisty - 2nd rpt - 02/Sep/12 with Will Smith

Pre placed gear up to first crux from partners dnf. Previously seconded. Such a fun, if hard, line!
jwpil - Lead β - 02/Aug/12 with Deacon

To remove gear from top half of tippler as second couldn't get up. Brutal but good, 1 rest.
jwpil - 2nd dog - 15/Jul/12 with Ben

Great effort from Jack and Rob to lead this!
JamesRich - 2nd dog - 14/Jul/12 with Rob stanfield, Jack Bradbrook

I seconded Rob up this two days prior to actually leading it myself and thought it didn't feel too bad, I knew then that I had to go back and do it on lead before the end of the trip so on the last day two hours before having to head back to Bristol I climbed it placing all gear on lead. In terms of the raw difficulty of the climbing it's probably the hardest trad route I have done with it weighing in at about f6c although you cant really hurt yourself on it since it is also about as safe as a f6c with multiple bomber cams protecting the crux.
Quarryboy - Lead rpt - 14/Jul/12 with James Rich, Martin Stanfield, Rob Stanfield

The unexpected route of the trip for me. Having watched and got chatting with a bloke trying it a few times, I asked to have a pop at it as it looked like my kind of route. Climbed up on his gear to the break before the crux. Grunted and managed to snatch the hold beneath the final overhang. Had poor gear with me as I didn't expect to get that far! Somehow got to the top after a while of getting pumped and shoving in poor gear. E3 flash. Got to be happy with that!!!!! :D
Stanners - Lead β - 12/Jul/12 with James Rich, Martin Stanfield, Jack Bradbrook

Boiling sun and the rock was greasy as sin so im happy with this line, move to the jug under the second lip was massive but I loved every attempt.
BRoe - Lead G/U - 26/May/12 with whitehouse_rhys

AMAZING route, big moves and my hardest rout on grit so far! So happy to have got it!
whitehouse_rhys - Lead RP - 26/May/12 with ben roe

Apharri - Lead O/S - 02/May/12 with Dan Parkes

Hidden - Lead dnf - 28/Apr/12

Matt Cooke - Lead dog - 28/Apr/12 with Rosh

SOOO far away!
wi11 - Lead dnf - 14/Apr/12 with Ant JW

Third time lucky
mwatson - Lead rpt - 26/Mar/12

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2012

So hard!
Daniel Heath - Lead dnf - 29/Sep/11

fell on first lead at second crux and climbed clean after.
henry peter jenkins - Lead RP - 23/Sep/11 with paul jones

nige - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/11 with mark hounslea

Jack Loftus - 2nd dog - 27/Jul/11 with Nick

Hidden - Lead - 27/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead dnf - 24/Jul/11

belay bunny turned bad - Lead dnf - 24/Jul/11 with loundsy

nacnud - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/11 with Natalie Tanzer

natalietanzer - Lead dog - 10/Jul/11 with will, marcus, nacnud

wi11 - 2nd dnf - 09/Jul/11 with Duncan

JRae - 2nd - 29/Jun/11 with Tom Dixon

Previously dogged in Oct/10 with Mike - managed the dyno this time!
thomasadixon - Lead RP - 29/Jun/11 with Johnny

Hannes B - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/11 with Sandra & Pascal

Hidden - Lead - 13/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead - 23/Mar/11

markalmack - Lead RP - 19/Mar/11 with andy graham, simon bulmer

Watched a lad do it before me.
GPN - Lead β - 19/Mar/11

Brown - 2nd - Mar/11 with Oska

Hidden - Lead - 2011

Dan Mckinlay - 2011

Hidden - Dec/10

NeilGriffiths - 2nd dog - 15/Nov/10 with Simon Frost

frost - Lead dog - 14/Nov/10 with N Griffiths

First attempt at an E3 and it fisted me. Three attempts ground up, could just make the crux move but not enough grunt left o pull out of it. Then downclimbed stripping my gear. Think this'll go after abit of PE training.
lrandall - Lead dnf - 07/Nov/10 with Andy C

Hidden - Lead dnf - 06/Nov/10

well impressed with jakes lead!
tom106 - 2nd - 16/Oct/10 with jacobjlloyd

Bit of a group yoyo session! Got to the crux first go, woosed out of the pop and tried to go static until the pump threw me off. All it took was commitment on the crux move, so taking the fall a few times helped. Fourth go in the end, ground up. Hard move, gorgeous sequence leading into it and the final moves on the original route are fantastic as well! A one-move-wonder, but a true classic!
jacobjlloyd - Lead RP - 16/Oct/10 with alex hallam, Ed Searle, Tom Maidwell

drysori - Lead - 26/Sep/10 with annette

Yeargh! Fierce, had me dangling a couple of times. Really struggled to get from the ledge on the second roof to the break below the final roof. Ended up going left, feet on, then up. The rockover above is superb though.
AsleepOnBelay - 2nd dog - 22/Sep/10 with Johannes

3rd Go. Lovely fall first go, basically needed more rest on my second attempt and should have 'umffed' a little more on the lock off. Lovely moves, bomber gear.
Twisty - Lead RP - 05/Sep/10 with Will Smith

HIGHTOWER - Lead dnf - 22/Aug/10 with Danny Mickers

Speeddemonsi - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead - 27/Jul/10

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - 2nd rpt - 27/Jul/10 with Liam O'Loughlin

Did the hard bit fine but screwed the 5b bit up some how???
liamoloughlin - Lead dog - 27/Jul/10

geddicakes - 2nd O/S - 27/Jul/10 with Mike Hayes

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/10

mickersd - Lead RP - Jul/10

Hidden - 2nd dog - 23/Jun/10

2nd go.
Tez29 - Lead RP - 02/Jun/10 with Tom, Ivan

nepsoi999 - 2nd O/S - 02/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead dnf - 25/Apr/10

Hidden - TR dnf - Apr/10

RossG - 2010

Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 31/Oct/09 with Matt Burdican

dmoir - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/09 with Lauren Davies

Hidden - Lead dnf - 18/Sep/09

feilx - Lead dog - 13/Sep/09 with Andy L

Hidden - Lead dnf - 07/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead rpt - 06/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead β - 27/Aug/09

Mr Wild - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/09

MeMeMe - Lead dnf - 25/Jul/09 with Andy

Not a chance! I only had one attempt at the crux move because as soon as I had missed it, I was hanging in space and there was no way back up to it. Made a pretty miserable attempt and gave up.
Reaver2k - 2nd dnf - 10/Jul/09 with Michael Watson

Hidden - Lead - 13/Apr/09

Good gear, big burly moves - awesome.
kingholmesy - Lead O/S - 2009 with Andy S

Ground-up as I underestimated the how uber-powerful the crux is!
dannyboy83 - Lead RP - 24/Oct/08 with Dad

Finally! Tried year or so ago at end of long day and couldn't get crux. Nailed first try this time and it felt quite straight forward. Really good fun and an amazing route!
derico - Lead - 10/Oct/08 with Bandy

riddle - Lead dnf - 10/Oct/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/08

Ground up. Fell reaching for the break first time as I didn't commit fully. Got it second go.
Oli - Lead RP - 16/Sep/08 with Wil Treasure

couldnt get through the main roof
dave o - Lead dnf - 27/Aug/08 with Julia H

Hidden - 2nd dog - 06/Jun/08

oh dear, not my proudest moment - got cam paranoia and couldnt commit to crux. next time...
ksjs - Lead dnf - 23/May/08 with goosebump

Was a brick hard reach up to break so came down and did the normal tippler.
Ed Booth - Lead dnf - 17/Feb/08

Adam Booth - Lead dnf - 17/Feb/08 with Ed Booth

Hidden - 2008

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Nov/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Oct/07

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Lead RP - 15/Sep/07 with Jon Reading

mattyork2 - Lead dnf - 26/Aug/07 with Josh and pythonist

YES! Finally got it, and such a great route. But geezus, the original Tippler crux feels so much harder after the direct start!
Pythonist - Lead rpt - 25/Aug/07

Hidden - Lead - 11/Jul/07

1 inch off reaching the break on the original at full lock. Resorted to trying to go dynamically but couldn't do it.
Ram MkiV - Lead dnf - 10/Jul/07 with tom & alex

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead rpt - 08/Jul/07 with Nic Sellers

furry - Lead dnf - 28/Apr/07 with John LMC

craig matheson - Solo - Apr/07

Yeah... it's a hard reach that one. Fell off it 6 or so times, and still haven't got it!
Pythonist - Lead dnf - 21/Feb/07 with Luke Brooks

Rob Kennard - 2007

willackers - 2nd - 2007 with Dan Walker

Pete Graham - Lead O/S - 2007 with Chris Wall

jamesturnbull - Lead - 2007 with tom h

TomHaigh - 2nd dog - 2007 with James Turnbull

Hidden - Lead dnf - 21/Dec/06

bigie bob - Lead β - 09/Aug/06

Bit of a yo-yo session. Good line.
Garan - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/06 with Duncan Frisch

Lex_2004 - 2nd - 21/Jan/06 with Will Harris

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Jan/06

Boy - 2006

dan gibson - 2006

mattnuttall - 2nd rpt - Sep/05 with Clement Mounier

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Apr/05

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2005

Chris M - 2005

Hidden - Lead dog - 31/Oct/04

rapidrich - Lead dnf - Nov/03 with Coni

Hidden - Lead dnf - 27/Jun/03

Hidden - Solo O/S - 21/Apr/03

Dave Musgrove Jnr - 2nd - 12/May/01 with Joe le Sage

Hidden - TR - Sep/00

Hidden - 2000

tuftynick - Lead - 2000

Roget - Lead RP - 25/Sep/99 with jon

CrashMat Rob - Lead β - 16/May/99 with Nicky

CrashMat Rob - Lead dog - 11/Apr/99 with Nicky

shark - Lead - 06/Dec/98

rested on gear, but finished it. Nev 2nd it.
CrashMat Rob - Lead dog - 19/Sep/98 with Dave, Nev, rob?, Nicky

CrashMat Rob - TR - 09/Aug/98 with Nicky

CrashMat Rob - TR - 02/Aug/98 with Nicky

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Mar/98

Hidden - Lead rpt - 11/Jan/98

Hidden - Lead rpt - 23/Nov/97

goi.ashmore - Lead RP - 20/Sep/97 with Myles Jordan

ste_d - 2nd O/S - 18/Jul/97 with mik

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/97

Hidden - Lead O/S - Oct/96

Hidden - May/96

On day of Paul Williams funeral
Cowflinger - Lead - May/95

Hidden - Lead - 27/Apr/95

Hidden - 27/Apr/95

leathers - 1995

mattnuttall - Lead rpt - Jun/94 with Nick Bishop

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/94

Chris Reid - Lead O/S - 29/May/94 with Oliver Allen

mikedelderfield - Lead O/S - 01/May/93 with Steven Delderfield

IanD353 - Lead O/S - 1993

Hidden - Lead - 1993

felt hard, pumpy
mattnuttall - TR RP - 22/Jun/91

Bruce Kerr - 2nd - 18/Mar/90 with George MacIntyre

charlesmfrench - 2nd O/S - 1990 with Alan Bennett

Hidden - 1990

Tough crux. Thuggish gritstone 6a. Cool.
stp - TR - May/89

sadams - Lead - Sep/87 with Mark Bonham

sadams - Lead dnf - 26/Dec/86 with Guy Townsend

Mike Owen - Lead O/S - 13/Oct/86 with Mark Taylor (Fluff)

Pog led it and a crowd of us followed. Couldnt do the rock over move to reach the parent route but found an alturnative
uphillnow - 2nd - 23/Aug/86 with Andrew (Pog) Horn

shark - Lead dnf - 27/Jun/86 with Seb Grieve

Hidden - Lead - 1986

sadams - Lead dnf - 04/May/85 with John Dunne

steve L - Lead - 14/Apr/84 with Alan Dance

Mark Kemball - Lead dnf - 04/May/83 with Paul Clark

Mark Kemball - Lead dnf - 12/May/82 with Chris Calow

Hidden - Lead - 1981

Chris Craggs - Lead - 1980

paul__in_sheffield - Lead - 1980

Canyak - 1973

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Skotch85, wi11, climbingrev, theomoore, M_Robinson, Ollie B, MYox, robw007, Tangerine_Kingdom, sgl0jd, widdlestickmcpoos, climberchristy, Graham Booth, Paul Tanner, Siderunner, andy newton, martroberts, Chi Cheng, pabbage, ChrisBrooke, jonnybull, mhawk, Martin Davies, feilx, Michael Hood, pie_eater_pete, AsleepOnBelay, derekb, ajeakins, richiebongo, Ross Davidson, Will_Maxwell, RFWilkie, drcorbasisgod, Twisty, rocktigger, SMc, Simon Davenport, Tom Eagle, Skell

Total votes cast 136
hard E40 of 47
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Style of ascent
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean G/U
Clean RP