UKC

16m.

Rockfax Description
A fine piece of roof climbing. Head through the stacked roof to a good hold where a massive lock-off or a short leap is needed to reach the break under the roof. The crux of The Tippler remains. © Rockfax

FA. Jim Reading 1976.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Hardish grit routes that have good gear but aren't staminafests , Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day , James' Winter Grit ticklist , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Jem's Time in the Peaks , E3's for 2020 , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Big trad grit list , Sheff , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Winter 23/24

Feedback

User Date Notes
jwdickinson25 24 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Rounded hold can be reached easily and static.....hand jam in the break, heel hook on face and toe under the roof. . then stretch for the next break!
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βeta: Rounded hold can be reached easily and static.....hand jam in the break, heel hook on face and toe under the roof. . then stretch for the next break!
John Gillott 24 Feb, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: I think the thuggery comes in at the point you mention... right foot on broken hold out right, lock off with left arm on rounded hold, then rock up slightly and reach.
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βeta: I think the thuggery comes in at the point you mention... right foot on broken hold out right, lock off with left arm on rounded hold, then rock up slightly and reach.
Pythonist 22 Feb, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Nonsense to the idea that this is thuggery. Great moves under the roof, with good holds and adequate feet. The move get around the first roof includes a great heel-hook and is well protected. The next reach, however, beat me senseless. I think jumping is the only answer, and I don't have a small reach!
βeta?
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βeta: Nonsense to the idea that this is thuggery. Great moves under the roof, with good holds and adequate feet. The move get around the first roof includes a great heel-hook and is well protected. The next reach, however, beat me senseless. I think jumping is the only answer, and I don't have a small reach!
Andy Farnell 17 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: It felt bloody desperate in the midle of summer, in the blazing sun. The hold you go for is a looong way if your short.
βeta?
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βeta: It felt bloody desperate in the midle of summer, in the blazing sun. The hold you go for is a looong way if your short.
stow 26 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: I liked the fall so much I did it 3X! The target hold is actually good -- once you reach it. A belief move.
βeta?
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βeta: I liked the fall so much I did it 3X! The target hold is actually good -- once you reach it. A belief move.
Nick Smith - Climbers 2 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: A 'safe' fall off the crux - as my photo demonstrates...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A 'safe' fall off the crux - as my photo demonstrates...

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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 71
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 71
Votes cast 64
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
DNF
Onsighted
Ground Up
Dogged
Redpoint
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Demon Rib

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Black Rocks)

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