Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
A fine piece of roof climbing. Head through the stacked roof to a good hold where a massive lock-off or a short leap is needed to reach the break under the roof. The crux of The Tippler remains. © Rockfax
FA. Jim Reading 1976.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Hardish grit routes that have good gear but aren't staminafests , Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day , James' Winter Grit ticklist , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Jem's Time in the Peaks , E3's for 2020 , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Big trad grit list , Sheff , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Winter 23/24
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| jwdickinson25 | 24 Jun, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Rounded hold can be reached easily and static.....hand jam in the break, heel hook on face and toe under the roof. . then stretch for the next break! | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Rounded hold can be reached easily and static.....hand jam in the break, heel hook on face and toe under the roof. . then stretch for the next break! |
||||
| John Gillott | 24 Feb, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: I think the thuggery comes in at the point you mention... right foot on broken hold out right, lock off with left arm on rounded hold, then rock up slightly and reach. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: I think the thuggery comes in at the point you mention... right foot on broken hold out right, lock off with left arm on rounded hold, then rock up slightly and reach. |
||||
| Pythonist | 22 Feb, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Nonsense to the idea that this is thuggery. Great moves under the roof, with good holds and adequate feet. The move get around the first roof includes a great heel-hook and is well protected. The next reach, however, beat me senseless. I think jumping is the only answer, and I don't have a small reach! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Nonsense to the idea that this is thuggery. Great moves under the roof, with good holds and adequate feet. The move get around the first roof includes a great heel-hook and is well protected. The next reach, however, beat me senseless. I think jumping is the only answer, and I don't have a small reach! |
||||
| Andy Farnell | 17 Mar, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: It felt bloody desperate in the midle of summer, in the blazing sun. The hold you go for is a looong way if your short. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: It felt bloody desperate in the midle of summer, in the blazing sun. The hold you go for is a looong way if your short. |
||||
| stow | 26 Sep, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: I liked the fall so much I did it 3X! The target hold is actually good -- once you reach it. A belief move. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: I liked the fall so much I did it 3X! The target hold is actually good -- once you reach it. A belief move. |
||||
| Nick Smith - Climbers | 2 Jul, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: A 'safe' fall off the crux - as my photo demonstrates... | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: A 'safe' fall off the crux - as my photo demonstrates... |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Popular
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Delicatarius
Grade: E3 5c ***
(High Tor)