Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
The capped groove is steady up to the big overhang where committing moves lead out left to a wild finish up the hanging left arete of the final groove. Low in the grade, but not that low! © Rockfax
FA. John Allen 1975.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade , Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age , Ultimate E2 ticklist , Ultimate E3 ticklist , CUMC Ticklist , Jem's Time in the Peaks , John Allen (gritstone) megamix , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Big trad grit list , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Jus | 5 Jun, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: A bit of old fashioned udging gets you around the corner. Wicked route, get on it. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A bit of old fashioned udging gets you around the corner. Wicked route, get on it. |
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| ericinbristol | 24 Jun, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Got pumped trying to get gear in at the crux. There is gear though (I won't say what it is - you can find out for yourself), you just can't get any in before getting committed. I splatted into corner spectacularly but without injury. Hard work at E2 5c! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Got pumped trying to get gear in at the crux. There is gear though (I won't say what it is - you can find out for yourself), you just can't get any in before getting committed. I splatted into corner spectacularly but without injury. Hard work at E2 5c! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Popular
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
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Delicatarius
Grade: E3 5c ***
(High Tor)