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Black Hawk Bastion** E2 5c

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[Unknown climber on Black Hawk Bastion, Stanage, 2 kb]16m. The roofed groove is steady up to the big square overhang where committing moves lead left to a wild finish up the hanging left arete of the final groove. Low in the grade, but hard enough! © ROCKFAX
FA. John Allen 1975

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 500, Stanage Routes Graded List, Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade, Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age, Ultimate E2 ticklist.

Photo: Unknown climber on Black Hawk Bastion, Stanage © ab339
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 257 logbooks, and on 54 wishlists.

Tricky under the roof and not the sinker runner you'd like as you get into the groove!
Duncan Campbell - UKC - 2nd - 21/Jul/14 with Rob Greenwood

ashtond6 - Lead dnf - 13/Jul/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/14

Psyched to get this, felt pretty easy for E3 but I am pretty short!
spidermonkey09 - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/14 with Jack Knight

Jack93 - 2nd dog - 13/Jun/14 with Jim Hulbert

mynyddresident - Lead - 07/Jun/14 with KP

saffy - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/14

Speeddemonsi - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/14 with Cat Black

Stig - Lead rpt - 11/Apr/14 with Mischa and Coel

funsized - 2nd rpt - 21/Mar/14 with Tom Green

On Tim's Gear.
James Oakes - Lead β - 19/Mar/14 with Chi Cheng, Tim Newton, Peter Bugryniec

tim newton - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/14 with james oakes

Roof flake is creaky, some parts have been broken off, decided not to break any more. Currently 2 in-situ wires before the crux (not mine!).
LJC - Lead dnf - 10/Mar/14 with George

out of practice!
papashango - Lead dnf - 09/Mar/14 with Jim, Martin

Frank the Husky - 2014

Alfie Conn - 2014

Cool sequence leaving the gear.
Matthew Ferrier - Lead O/S - 23/Nov/13 with Micki

MSchobitz - 2nd dog - 23/Nov/13 with matt

Nick1812P - Lead O/S - 07/Nov/13

the power - 2nd dnf - 24/Oct/13 with Andy

Fell of a lot! But eventuly got up it when i got hold of the aret. Cant deside how best to do this crux pop or body tension ?
Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 24/Oct/13

Didn't feel harder than any of the other E2s done that w/e.
Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/13 with Preston Matt

I had a nightmare on this! Great lead from Owen.
Matt77 - 2nd - 06/Oct/13 with Owen

beneole - Lead dog - Oct/13

Hidden - Lead rpt - 28/Sep/13

Stefan_Morris - Lead rpt - 21/Sep/13 with jenny

Easy to overhang. Cold couldn't feel fingers and couldn't commit. Downclimbed
rurp - Lead dnf - 10/Sep/13

2 good falls at the crux before retreating
Lenny - Lead dnf - 05/Sep/13

2nd go. Very hard sequence. Especially for 6ft 3+'s ?
Stanners - Lead RP - 11/Aug/13 with James Rich, Jack Bradbrook

Rob went first then fell off and offered the lead to me. Decided to try and use his nails pebble beta but fell off and got rope whiplashed in the balls (ouch), decided at that point that I'd had enough with the route. Realised later that there was actually some OK holds in the roof that I just made not noticed at all with my tunnel vision making it quite a bit harder than it should have been, oh well one to tick clean on a future trip I guess.
Quarryboy - Lead dnf - 11/Aug/13 with James Rich, Rob Stanfield

DanOsb - 2nd - 01/Aug/13 with will pettet-smith

dr_botnik - 2nd dnf - 03/Jul/13

many many falls bellow big route...
JanBella - Lead dnf - 03/Jul/13 with helen

mark4344 - 2nd - 01/Jul/13 with dennis

Ground up after one fall from the crux, had also fallen at the same point in 2011
Si dH - Lead RP - 19/May/13 with Neil Furniss

Really hard to work out a sequence. Grabbing that arete is a fantastic feeling. Last route of the day and felt really spanked. Really hard for E2.
deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13

Adrianw - 2nd dnf - 20/Apr/13 with Neil Morbey

ethan109 - Lead dnf - 04/Apr/13

westaway - Lead - 08/Mar/13

soph - Lead - 19/Oct/12 with Rocio

hard for the tall
phil64 - 2nd - 18/Oct/12 with tim neill

Great climb with some fantastic top moves, massive fall out zone, and never been E3. Nunn gave it HVS!
roberto18 - Lead β - 14/Oct/12 with Dad (Mike Bridges)

beth.westonhoward - 2nd - 07/Oct/12 with Chi Cheng

Felt soft for E3, I agrees with the UKC grade of E2
Chi Cheng - Lead O/S - 07/Oct/12 with Beth Howard

Hidden - Lead β - 06/Oct/12

Didn't like this much, found it too confined and awkward. Some cool moves to get out of the corner though, I think it's well worth E3.
Joughton - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/12

willsm11 - Lead β - 02/Sep/12 with Twisty

Found it much harder to second than when I led it! Think I rushed into the crux!
Twisty - 2nd rpt - 02/Sep/12 with Will Smith

still hard, but easier than last time :)
JamieSparkes - 2nd rpt - 12/Aug/12 with Fergus Cuthill, Tom Eadington

Yay! First E3! Don't tell me its not E3.....its at least E2.5!
Thinker01 - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/12 with Becster, Ralph Wilkinson

becster - 2nd - 03/Aug/12 with Mark_Day

Fell off at the crux. Couldn't get it after two tries.
Cake - Lead dnf - 26/Jul/12 with Howard

Couldn't get onto the arete the first time after hanging around too long. Got it second time after a rest.
shed_hed - 2nd dog - 21/Jul/12 with Alun Freem

So much easier when you know the sequence!
jwpil - Lead rpt - 15/Jul/12 with Ben

pabbage - Lead dnf - 25/May/12

mark20 - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/12

jwpil - Lead dnf - 13/Apr/12 with Gordon

gordonday - TR dnf - 13/Apr/12 with Jack

Brilliant crux section, felt more like E2 than E3 to me.
Andy Moles - Lead O/S - 18/Mar/12 with Rob

Hidden - Lead RP - 18/Mar/12

Got as far as the roof.
hippymagic - 2nd dnf - 13/Mar/12 with Pete Barrass, Jessica

ellis - Lead rpt - 12/Mar/12 with Tom Bridgeland

Tried to second Ben up this, but had nothing left by the time I reached the roof. Managed to get all the gear out anyway.
treg - 2nd dnf - 10/Mar/12 with Ben

Bruce Houston - Lead - Mar/12

Fell of a few times lowered to the ground to se if I cud actually do it on top rope, I can no problem! will lead next time I am there to prove it to my self
Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 29/Jan/12 with H washbrook

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2012

Glad I led it, even if it was very differently from when I seconded it! Safe as houses
wi11 - Lead rpt - 19/Nov/11 with Charlie T

Got out to the jug on the arete but didn't have enough left and barn-doored off. Fall was fine. Should be steady when I go back.
Si dH - Lead dnf - 06/Nov/11 with Andy

Hidden - Lead - 06/Nov/11

pie_eater_pete - Lead O/S - 29/Oct/11

Classic stuff, seemed fairly easy apart from the one move out from under the roof. Hard to see how this is given E3 in some guides given the good gear and single hard move but maybe feels different if you fall off?? Glad I didn't look at the photo in the Stanage 2007 guide first as it looks much harder that way?
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 23/Oct/11 with Pete aka Dad

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Oct/11

dannyboy83 - 2nd O/S - 15/Oct/11 with Little Chris

dmoir - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/11 with Gid

gidmord - 2nd dog - 15/Oct/11 with dmoir

barni - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/11 with Bob, Tapper

Bottled it. Fail.
ianjfsutcliffe - Lead dnf - 30/Sep/11 with Courty

nige - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/11 with mark hounslea

Rachel Slater - 2nd dnf - 15/Sep/11 with Jon Fane

akhughes - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead β - 24/Jul/11

belay bunny turned bad - 2nd - 24/Jul/11 with loundsy

natalietanzer - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/11 with nacnud

nacnud - Lead - 10/Jul/11 with Natalie Tanzer

wi11 - 2nd β - 09/Jul/11 with Duncan

good route, bit awkward at the crux. the flake in roof helps a lot.
w.pettet-smith - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/11 with jon

Failed on this due to commitment issues in 10/9. Good climb, nice to get it clean!
thomasadixon - Lead rpt - 05/Jun/11 with Alan

wolverine - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/11 with Paul P

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - 2nd rpt - 02/Jun/11 with Mike Hayes

morganator - Lead O/S - 05/May/11 with Stan Halstead

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/11

fell off last year, no problem today.
nai - Lead - 10/Apr/11 with Chris

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/11

morganator - Lead - 25/Mar/11 with Stan Halstead

john lynch - 2nd O/S - 22/Mar/11 with Lewis Andrew

GPN - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/11

Kyle Rance - Lead rpt - 12/Mar/11 with Frank Castillo

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead - 2011

David Smith - 2011

John Roberts (JR) - Lead - 2011

mwatson - 2011

jfane - Lead O/S - 2011

Tophe - Lead O/S - 2011

Nick Sillem - Lead O/S - 2011

Hidden - Dec/10

Hidden - Lead - 20/Nov/10

Roberto - Lead RP - 13/Nov/10

FlorianCastagne - Lead β - 12/Nov/10 with Laurence Yernaux

Fell after crux. Abbed to ground, got yoyo ascent. Great route, now I know crux will get on again.
Ahab - Lead dog - 07/Nov/10

jonnyboy - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/10 with James Coles

Jack Loftus - 2nd dnf - 24/Oct/10 with Nick

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Oct/10

JRae - 2nd - 20/Oct/10 with Martin Court

ojp - 2nd dnf - 17/Oct/10 with Dave

Ground up, one fall.
Dave Foster - Lead rpt - 17/Oct/10 with Si

Took a fall pulled rope got it second go
hilty - Lead RP - 16/Oct/10

Hannes B - Lead O/S - 13/Oct/10 with Emmsi

Ground up. Previously failed about 6 years ago and downclimbed stripping gear. Some 'very mixed up' people would refer to that as a retro-onsight, but I don't entertain such nonsense! Was proper goey round the roof. The voice saying, "find some gear and a rest position" vs the one saying "do some hard moves quickly or fall off" :)
Cragrat Rich - Lead - 07/Oct/10

Hidden - Lead - 07/Oct/10

HamishD - Lead - 02/Oct/10 with chris burn

M_W_Court - Lead dog - Oct/10

JamieSparkes - 2nd rpt - 21/Sep/10

im havin that as an E3
peaches69 - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/10 with sarah

A hard move.
Will Hunt - 2nd O/S - 18/Sep/10 with Ralph Burden

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/10

foot slipped on move through the roof.
DannyK - 2nd dog - 24/Jul/10 with pep

feilx - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/10 with Ian Lovatt

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Lead rpt - 06/Jul/10 with Bryony Weathers

Hidden - 2nd dog - 06/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/10

Sankey - 2nd dnf - 20/Jun/10 with Luke

fab route, there seems to be many waysto do the hard bit!
cobweb - Lead - 19/Jun/10 with martyn hopson

felt nails too me!!
LukeP LCC - 2nd dnf - 18/Jun/10 with conor

Hidden - 2nd dog - 13/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/10

morganator - Lead O/S - 25/May/10 with James Hall

Hidden - Lead dog - 16/May/10

Hidden - 2nd dog - 16/May/10

Chris_barr - 2nd O/S - 09/May/10 with Mike

took a big fall off this, lowered down and figured out what to do, went up to try again and forgot what to do so rested, then went for it. was fine but should've lowered down and done the easy bottom section to get it clean really.
JamieSparkes - Lead - 24/Apr/10 with Claire

Hidden - Lead - 23/Apr/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Apr/10

greenclimb - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/10

Seymore Butt - 2010

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Oct/09

mattyork2 - Lead O/S - 26/Oct/09 with Johnny Richard

Reached up above the main roof and there was a wet slimey layback hold covered in green oozing moss, hands cold too, so down climbed to floor taking my kit out. Do on a warmer/drier day.
Ed Booth - Lead dnf - 23/Oct/09

Pre placed gear upto the roof
mattish2000 - Lead β - 18/Oct/09 with liam

Ground-up
tom.e - Lead - 01/Oct/09 with Malcolm, Tom Powell

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 26/Sep/09

New stanage guide says E3, but the old rockfax one says E2... which is what made me do it! Great gear and a nice sequency crux
Twisty - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/09 with Nigel Stock

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Sep/09

JPGR - 2nd - Sep/09 with Frank

Bloody thing......
chris sm - Lead dnf - 29/Aug/09 with Pippa Froggatt

frost - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/09 with N Griffiths

NeilGriffiths - 2nd - 23/Aug/09 with Simon Frost

Came off once - knackered from getting gear out. Not sure I would have done it clean anyway though.
max_chan - 2nd dog - 05/Aug/09 with Chris

Rested on first attempt, then done clean from the ground.
Stig - Lead - 16/Jul/09 with Charlie Reade-Jahn

Pretty hard! Almost fell off this, oddly I found the bottom section pretty nails, but then the move out to the arete seemed massive. I got a cool little toe hook with my right foot, reached onto the good crimp under the roof, and then swang up and left to the arete grasping the good hold on it, then its all over once you've handled the barn-door. Don't think I'd dare do that move on lead, although I couldn't see any other way for someone of my size.
Reaver2k - 2nd O/S - 10/Jul/09 with Michael Watson

Managed to avoid/miss all holds on flake under roof. All over once reached arÍte.
Dan 85 - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/09 with Rich

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 06/Apr/09

stiff e2 5c - gets e3 in rockfax (description above is for e3) - wanted to do this route since 1st time at stanage where VDiff's were scary - glad i waited! - amazing arete moves!! well chuffed with this clean o/s tick
Woodiee - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/09 with Polly Harmer

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/09

datoon - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/09 with K

Savage, got very pumped on laat moves, just held the jug, quite greasy conditions. Commitment is rewarded.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 04/Mar/09 with Mikey Burton

kingholmesy - Lead O/S - 2009 with Brian

Ground up - fell off the crux due to numb arms on a cold day.
Andrew Barker - Lead O/S - Dec/08 with Chunk

Hidden - Lead dnf - 21/Sep/08

Hidden - Lead dnf - 20/Sep/08

Mr Wild - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/08 with Greg

Brown - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/08 with Henry

sadams - Lead - 16/Aug/08 with Catherine Adams

My first onsight of Extreme and E3! I didn't intend to do any Extreme today, but somehow I fancied it and did it without much fuss. Memorable.
masa-alpin - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/08 with Steve (southern England), Terry, Andy Rich

sshandy - 2nd - 26/Jul/08 with Masa

Phil Jennings - 2nd O/S - 10/Jun/08 with Kieran Leary

Hidden - Lead - 10/May/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/08

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Apr/08

Nicos - Lead O/S - 09/Mar/08 with rich howels

IanJackson - Lead O/S - 18/Feb/08

Andrew1 - Lead dnf - 06/Feb/08 with Charlie HW

Creep_pea - 2nd O/S - 23/Nov/07 with Adam

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Nov/07

Hidden - Lead - 04/Nov/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - Nov/07

Apharri - Lead O/S - Nov/07 with Tom Parry

Coel Hellier - Lead - Oct/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/07

willackers - 2nd - 22/Sep/07 with Dan Walker

mark s - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/07

Stig - Lead dnf - 29/Jul/07 with Maciek

saved by the rain - crux was looking problematic when heavy rain caused me to downclimb. onsight still possible...
ksjs - Lead dnf - 16/Jul/07 with sarah

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/07 with Andy Benson

craig matheson - Solo - Apr/07

Skell - Lead RP - 12/Sep/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/06

unlikely and then tenuous feeling moves out to the arete. Juggy and easy once you reach it though.
Ram MkiV - Lead O/S - 25/May/06 with Tom

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/06

Jus - Lead O/S - May/06

Boy - 2006

dan gibson - 2006

centurion05 - 2006

Nick Beckett - Lead - 2006 with various

Hidden - Lead dnf - 11/Dec/05

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/04

Daniel Armitage - Lead RP - 22/May/04

Hidden - Lead - 21/Oct/03

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - 2nd O/S - 31/May/03 with John Nightingale

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/02 with Viv

First E3
martroberts - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/01

CrashMat Rob - TR - 24/Jun/01 with Nicky

DubyaJamesDubya - Jun/00

Hidden - Lead - 24/May/00

CrashMat Rob - TR - 04/Mar/00 with Brian, Nicky

Hidden - 2000

Hidden - Lead dnf - 2000

CrashMat Rob - TR - 26/Jun/99 with Dave, Nicky

CrashMat Rob - TR - 05/Jun/99 with Martin Whelan, Nicky

CrashMat Rob - Lead β - 01/Jun/99 with Nicky

CrashMat Rob - Lead dnf - 02/May/99 with Martin Smith, Nicky

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/98

CrashMat Rob - Lead dog - 11/Jul/98 with Nicky

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/98

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1998

Hidden - 1998

DNF then went on to top rope
CrashMat Rob - Lead dnf - 23/Aug/97 with Paul Kerr

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Jan/97

Jon Read - Lead O/S - 1997

Hidden - Lead O/S - Oct/96

ChrisJD - Lead - 05/Aug/96

Chris took a fall on this
Chris Ellis - 2nd - 1996 with Chris Barnes

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 07/May/95 with Matt Hirst

Billg - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/94 with Doug Partington

Hidden - Lead - 04/Oct/92

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/91

Roget - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/91 with jon

sadams - Lead - 01/Mar/91 with Kev Mellieu

scree - Jun/89

Hidden - Lead - 07/Jun/88

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/May/87

Dave Musgrove - Lead rpt - 31/Jan/87

Mike Owen - 13/Oct/86 with Mark Taylor (Fluff)

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 03/May/86 with Wills Young, Neville Elstone

keefe - 26/Jan/86

Hidden - Lead - 1986

Hidden - Lead - 1984

Felt tough back in day. Technical groove followed by goey top.
stp - Lead - 04/Aug/82

Ghastly Rubberfeet - Lead - 1982

Mark Kemball - Lead - 07/Oct/79 with Mark Brewster

andy gittins - 1979

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - 1978 with Dorothy Bogg, John Bogg

Peg for aid was normal in those days.
Dave Musgrove - Lead dog - 19/Jun/73 with Speedy Smith

rogerskews - 1972 with CMC Members

mikej - Lead - 16/Oct/66 with Keith Gregson

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Voting
Total votes cast 283
hard E30 of 104
E31 of 104
easy E365 of 104
hard E223 of 104
E213 of 104
easy E20 of 104
hard E12 of 104
E10 of 104
easy E10 of 104
hard 6a0 of 97
6a0 of 97
easy 6a8 of 97
hard 5c60 of 97
5c28 of 97
easy 5c0 of 97
hard 5b1 of 97
5b0 of 97
easy 5b0 of 97
3 Stars17 of 82
2 Stars63 of 82
1 Star2 of 82
0 Stars0 of 82
Bag of .....0 of 82
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 257 (0.4%)
Lead178 of 257 (69.3%)
Followed53 of 257 (20.6%)
Toproped5 of 257 (1.9%)
Alt Leads1 of 257 (0.4%)
Unknown19 of 257 (7.4%)

'Climbed'80 of 257 (31.1%)
clean O/S94 of 257 (36.6%)
clean β9 of 257 (3.5%)
clean rpt17 of 257 (6.6%)
clean RP7 of 257 (2.7%)
dogged15 of 257 (5.8%)
dnf35 of 257 (13.6%)