UKC Logbook - 'Black Hawk Bastion'

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Derbyshire > Stanage Popular >

Black Hawk Bastion

E2 5c

Adjacent Climbs
<< Chameleon

Eliminator >>

16m. The roofed groove is steady up to the big square overhang where committing moves lead left to a wild finish up the hanging left arete of the final groove. Low in the grade, but hard enough! © ROCKFAX
FA. John Allen 1975

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 500, Stanage Routes Graded List.

Photo: Nice day for it? © Ian Milward
View all 12 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS

This climb is in 218 logbooks, and on 44 wishlists.

Ground up after one fall from the crux, had also fallen at the same point in 2011
Si dH - Lead RP - 19/May/13 with Neil Furniss

Really hard to work out a sequence. Grabbing that arete is a fantastic feeling. Last route of the day and felt really spanked. Really hard for E2.
deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13

Adrianw - 2nd dnf - 20/Apr/13 with Neil Morbey

ethan109 - Lead dnf - 04/Apr/13

westaway - Lead - 08/Mar/13

soph - Lead - 19/Oct/12 with Rocio

hard for the tall
phil64 - 2nd - 18/Oct/12 with tim neill

Great climb with some fantastic top moves, massive fall out zone, and never been E3. Nunn gave it HVS!
roberto18 - Lead β - 14/Oct/12 with Dad (Mike Bridges)

beth.westonhoward - 2nd - 07/Oct/12 with Chi Cheng

Felt soft for E3, I agrees with the UKC grade of E2
Chi Cheng - Lead O/S - 07/Oct/12 with Beth Howard

Hidden - Lead β - 06/Oct/12

Didn't like this much, found it too confined and awkward. Some cool moves to get out of the corner though, I think it's well worth E3.
Joughton - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/12

willsm11 - Lead β - 02/Sep/12 with Twisty

Found it much harder to second than when I led it! Think I rushed into the crux!
Twisty - 2nd rpt - 02/Sep/12 with Will Smith

still hard, but easier than last time :)
JamieSparkes - 2nd rpt - 12/Aug/12 with Fergus Cuthill, tomead

Yay! First E3! Don't tell me its not E3.....its at least E2.5!
Thinker01 - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/12 with Becster, Ralph Wilkinson

becster - 2nd - 03/Aug/12 with Mark_Day

Fell off at the crux. Couldn't get it after two tries.
Cake - Lead dnf - 26/Jul/12 with Howard

Couldn't get onto the arete the first time after hanging around too long. Got it second time after a rest.
shed_hed - 2nd dog - 21/Jul/12 with Alun Freem

So much easier when you know the sequence!
jwpil - Lead rpt - 15/Jul/12 with Ben

pabbage - Lead dnf - 25/May/12

mark20 - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/12

jwpil - Lead dnf - 13/Apr/12 with Gordon

gordonday - TR dnf - 13/Apr/12 with Jack

Brilliant crux section, felt more like E2 than E3 to me.
Andy Moles - Lead O/S - 18/Mar/12 with Rob

CJEFF - Lead RP - 18/Mar/12 with Jack, Thomas Ramsdon

Got as far as the roof.
hippymagic - 2nd dnf - 13/Mar/12 with Pete Barrass, Jessica

ellis - Lead rpt - 12/Mar/12 with Tom Bridgeland

Tried to second Ben up this, but had nothing left by the time I reached the roof. Managed to get all the gear out anyway.
treg - 2nd dnf - 10/Mar/12 with Ben

Bruce Houston - Lead - Mar/12

Fell of a few times lowered to the ground to se if I cud actually do it on top rope, I can no problem! will lead next time I am there to prove it to my self
Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 29/Jan/12 with H washbrook

Tony Kartawick - 2012

wojtt - Lead O/S - 2012

Glad I led it, even if it was very differently from when I seconded it! Safe as houses
wi11 - Lead rpt - 19/Nov/11 with Charlie T

Got out to the jug on the arete but didn't have enough left and barn-doored off. Fall was fine. Should be steady when I go back.
Si dH - Lead dnf - 06/Nov/11 with Andy

Hidden - Lead - 06/Nov/11

pie_eater_pete - Lead O/S - 29/Oct/11

Classic stuff, seemed fairly easy apart from the one move out from under the roof. Hard to see how this is given E3 in some guides given the good gear and single hard move but maybe feels different if you fall off?? Glad I didn't look at the photo in the Stanage 2007 guide first as it looks much harder that way?
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 23/Oct/11 with Pete aka Dad

m.thomas15 - Lead O/S - 22/Oct/11

dannyboy83 - 2nd O/S - 15/Oct/11 with Little Chris

dmoir - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/11 with Gid

gidmord - 2nd dog - 15/Oct/11 with dmoir

barni - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/11 with Bob, Tapper

Bottled it. Fail.
ianjfsutcliffe - Lead dnf - 30/Sep/11 with Courty

nige - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/11 with mark hounslea

r fizzle - 2nd dnf - 15/Sep/11 with Jon Fane

akhughes - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/11

Finally some success on a route today! Excellent route, on Bex's gear after her airtime
loundsy - Lead β - 24/Jul/11

belay bunny turned bad - 2nd - 24/Jul/11 with loundsy

natalietanzer - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/11 with nacnud

nacnud - Lead - 10/Jul/11 with Natalie Tanzer

wi11 - 2nd β - 09/Jul/11 with Duncan

good route, bit awkward at the crux. the flake in roof helps a lot.
w.pettet-smith - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/11 with jon

Failed on this due to commitment issues in 10/9. Good climb, nice to get it clean!
thomasadixon - Lead rpt - 05/Jun/11 with Alan

wolverine - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/11 with Paul P

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - 2nd rpt - 02/Jun/11 with Mike Hayes

morganator - Lead O/S - 05/May/11 with Stan Halstead

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/11

fell off last year, no problem today.
nai - Lead - 10/Apr/11 with Chris

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/11

morganator - Lead - 25/Mar/11 with Stan Halstead

john lynch - 2nd O/S - 22/Mar/11 with Lewis Andrew

GPN - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/11

Kyle Rance - Lead rpt - 12/Mar/11 with Frank Castillo

Hidden - Lead - 2011

David Smith - 2011

John Roberts (JR) - Lead - 2011

mwatson - 2011

jfane - Lead O/S - 2011

Tophe - Lead O/S - 2011

Nick Sillem - Lead O/S - 2011

Hidden - Dec/10

Hidden - Lead - 20/Nov/10

Roberto - Lead RP - 13/Nov/10

FlorianCastagne - Lead β - 12/Nov/10 with Laurence Yernaux

Fell after crux. Abbed to ground, got yoyo ascent. Great route, now I know crux will get on again.
Ahab - Lead dog - 07/Nov/10

jonnyboy - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/10 with James Coles

Jack Loftus - 2nd dnf - 24/Oct/10 with Nick

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Oct/10

JRae - 2nd - 20/Oct/10 with Martin Court

ojp - 2nd dnf - 17/Oct/10 with Dave

Ground up, one fall.
Dave Foster - Lead rpt - 17/Oct/10 with Si

Took a fall pulled rope got it second go
hilty - Lead RP - 16/Oct/10

Hannes B - Lead O/S - 13/Oct/10 with Emmsi

Ground up. Previously failed about 6 years ago and downclimbed stripping gear. Some 'very mixed up' people would refer to that as a retro-onsight, but I don't entertain such nonsense! Was proper goey round the roof. The voice saying, "find some gear and a rest position" vs the one saying "do some hard moves quickly or fall off" :)
Cragrat Rich - Lead - 07/Oct/10

Hidden - Lead - 07/Oct/10

HamishD - Lead - 02/Oct/10 with chris burn

M_W_Court - Lead dog - Oct/10

JamieSparkes - 2nd rpt - 21/Sep/10

im havin that as an E3
peaches69 - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/10 with sarah

A hard move.
Will Hunt - 2nd O/S - 18/Sep/10 with Ralph Burden

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/10

foot slipped on move through the roof.
DannyK - 2nd dog - 24/Jul/10 with pep

feilx - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/10 with Ian Lovatt

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Lead rpt - 06/Jul/10 with Bryony Weathers

Hidden - 2nd dog - 06/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/10

Sankey - 2nd dnf - 20/Jun/10 with Luke

fab route, there seems to be many waysto do the hard bit!
cobweb - Lead - 19/Jun/10 with martyn hopson

felt nails too me!!
LukeP LCC - 2nd dnf - 18/Jun/10 with conor

Hidden - 2nd dog - 13/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/10

morganator - Lead O/S - 25/May/10 with James Hall

Hidden - Lead dog - 16/May/10

Hidden - 2nd dog - 16/May/10

Chris_barr - 2nd O/S - 09/May/10 with Mike

took a big fall off this, lowered down and figured out what to do, went up to try again and forgot what to do so rested, then went for it. was fine but should've lowered down and done the easy bottom section to get it clean really.
JamieSparkes - Lead - 24/Apr/10 with Claire

Hidden - Lead - 23/Apr/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Apr/10

greenclimb - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/10

Seymore Butt - 2010

'Low in the grade' of E3/high E2
liam - Lead O/S - 29/Oct/09 with Big Jon

mattyork2 - Lead O/S - 26/Oct/09 with Johnny Richard

Reached up above the main roof and there was a wet slimey layback hold covered in green oozing moss, hands cold too, so down climbed to floor taking my kit out. Do on a warmer/drier day.
Ed Booth - Lead dnf - 23/Oct/09

Pre placed gear upto the roof
mattish2000 - Lead β - 18/Oct/09 with liam

Ground-up
tom.e - Lead - 01/Oct/09 with Malcolm, Tom Powell

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 26/Sep/09

New stanage guide says E3, but the old rockfax one says E2... which is what made me do it! Great gear and a nice sequency crux
Twisty - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/09 with Nigel Stock

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Sep/09

JPGR - 2nd - Sep/09 with Frank

Bloody thing......
chris sm - Lead dnf - 29/Aug/09 with Pippa Froggatt

frost - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/09 with N Griffiths

NeilGriffiths - 2nd - 23/Aug/09 with Simon Frost

Came off once - knackered from getting gear out. Not sure I would have done it clean anyway though.
max_chan - 2nd dog - 05/Aug/09 with Chris

Rested on first attempt, then done clean from the ground.
Stig - Lead - 16/Jul/09 with Charlie Reade-Jahn

Pretty hard! Almost fell off this, oddly I found the bottom section pretty nails, but then the move out to the arete seemed massive. I got a cool little toe hook with my right foot, reached onto the good crimp under the roof, and then swang up and left to the arete grasping the good hold on it, then its all over once you've handled the barn-door. Don't think I'd dare do that move on lead, although I couldn't see any other way for someone of my size.
Reaver2k - 2nd O/S - 10/Jul/09 with Michael Watson

Managed to avoid/miss all holds on flake under roof. All over once reached ar�te.
Dan 85 - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/09 with Rich

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 06/Apr/09

stiff e2 5c - gets e3 in rockfax (description above is for e3) - wanted to do this route since 1st time at stanage where VDiff's were scary - glad i waited! - amazing arete moves!! well chuffed with this clean o/s tick
Woodiee - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/09 with Polly Harmer

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/09

madmats - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/09 with Nick W

datoon - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/09 with K

Savage, got very pumped on laat moves, just held the jug, quite greasy conditions. Commitment is rewarded.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 04/Mar/09 with Mikey Burton

kingholmesy - Lead O/S - 2009 with Brian

Ground up - fell off the crux due to numb arms on a cold day.
Andrew Barker - Lead O/S - Dec/08 with Chunk

Hidden - Lead dnf - 21/Sep/08

Hidden - Lead dnf - 20/Sep/08

Mr Wild - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/08 with Greg

Brown - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/08 with Henry

sadams - Lead - 16/Aug/08 with Catherine Adams

Phil Jennings - 2nd O/S - 10/Jun/08 with Kieran Leary

Hidden - Lead - 10/May/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/08

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Apr/08

Nicos - Lead O/S - 09/Mar/08 with rich howels

IanJackson - Lead O/S - 18/Feb/08

Andrew1 - Lead dnf - 06/Feb/08 with Charlie HW

Creep_pea - 2nd O/S - 23/Nov/07 with Adam

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Nov/07

Hidden - Lead - 04/Nov/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - Nov/07

Apharri - Lead O/S - Nov/07 with Tom Parry

Coel Hellier - Lead - Oct/07

north country boy - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/07 with Will Atkinson

willackers - 2nd - 22/Sep/07 with Dan Walker

mark s - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/07

Stig - Lead dnf - 29/Jul/07 with Maciek

saved by the rain - crux was looking problematic when heavy rain caused me to downclimb. onsight still possible...
ksjs - Lead dnf - 16/Jul/07 with sarah

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/07 with Andy Benson

craig matheson - Solo - Apr/07

Skell - Lead RP - 12/Sep/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/06

unlikely and then tenuous feeling moves out to the arete. Juggy and easy once you reach it though.
Belier - Lead O/S - 25/May/06 with Tom

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/06

Jus - Lead O/S - May/06

Boy - 2006

dan gibson - 2006

centurion05 - 2006

Nick Beckett - Lead - 2006 with various

Hidden - Lead dnf - 11/Dec/05