UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

12m.

Rockfax Description
The right-hand corner is climbed to a move left at the awkward overhang (mind your head) and a finish up the corner. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Stanage Popular Greens , Stanage 'Difficults' , Stanage 1956

Feedback

User Date Notes
Mutl3y 22 Dec, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Bloody hell awkward isn't the word. Was intending on going up this direct (Sev) but had zero gear by the time you have to make your mind up about which way you're going. The BMC Stanage guide has 'Another Ology' at VS 4a - which is either wrong or means that it's an unprotectable thrutch. Which is it?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Bloody hell awkward isn't the word. Was intending on going up this direct (Sev) but had zero gear by the time you have to make your mind up about which way you're going. The BMC Stanage guide has 'Another Ology' at VS 4a - which is either wrong or means that it's an unprotectable thrutch. Which is it?
Big Steve 10 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I saw it coming - and still managed to bash my head
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I saw it coming - and still managed to bash my head
steves 26 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: OUCH! i didnt see that coming
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: OUCH! i didnt see that coming
TN 5 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: They mean it when they refer to the 'awkward overhang'. Mind your head...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: They mean it when they refer to the 'awkward overhang'. Mind your head...

Logged Ascents

2071 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Stanage Popular

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 62 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
High HD
Mid HD
Low HD
Votes cast 101
Votes cast 86
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Dogged
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Verandah Cracks Inside Route

Grade: VD ***
(Stanage Popular)

Loading Notifications...