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Neue Südostkante 5a

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[Gimpel Neue Suedostkante, 3 kb]300m, 10 pitches. UIAA-grade VI.

Photo: Gimpel Neue Suedostkante © ripsawridge
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Nice climb with a stunning view on sometimes very loose rock (Wettersteinkalk). I guess we confused the old and new Südostkante quiet often. There are some narrow parts, which might be difficult to climb with backpacks on. The approach from Nesselwängle took about 1:20, the way back from the peak about 1:50. Pitch 1 - Running belay Pitch 2 - Running belay Pitch 3 - Benedikt leading O/S. Pitch 4 - Matthias leading O/S. Pitch 5 - Benedikt leading O/S. Variant to the right: Traverse on a slab with tiny finger pockets. Pitch 6 - Matthias leading. Pitch 7 - Benedikt leading O/S. Lunch break afterwards. Pitch 8 - Matthias leading. We took the left variant. Straight up would have been better, though. Pitch 9 - Benedikt leading O/S. Pitch 10 - Benedikt leading with rests. Slight rain made the rock slippery, while heavy fog prevented me from finding the route. Hence I used some rusty bolts of the old route and place my own protection.
benedikt - AltLd dog - 02/Jun/11 with Matthias Müller

It is not obvious which is the Old & New route. Lead Pitches 6,7 & 8 while being a second on the rest.
Carl Simmons - AltLd O/S - 23/Sep/09

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